Jim

[HELP] Generic Building Help Topic

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Posted (edited)

Set 42082, in the superstructure, used a bush and a white rubber band to add a little bit of friction to an axle. Have a look in the instructions :)

Edited by astyanax

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Then I'd use the solution @Gray Gear supposed: 5L axle with 8tooth gear and use the lower pinholes for a 3L friction axle/pin with a 8 tooth gear.

But please, use the intended thread for upcoming questions ;-)

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22 minutes ago, astyanax said:

Set 42082, in the superstructure, used a bush and a white rubber band to add a little bit of friction to an axle. Have a look in the instructions :)

Nice pointer, I'm guessing these: 

That's an innovative idea. I dislike rubber bands because they get brittle, but hey, they are cheap.

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45 minutes ago, technicfanatic said:

Ok. Please tell me if some one forces you and I will come to your aid.

Not sure if this is clear. My super-structure is built to support the axle from the inside, and I'd have to add a lot of structure to support the circled axle from the outside so that I can use a friction bushing. Thanks.

Use a couple of 8 tooth gears, one connected to the L arm with a friction pin.

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Posted (edited)

You could do what the 41999 does for the doors, it puts an axle inbetween two rubber 2L liftarms. I don't know if thats too much friction or not.

Rubber bands are a good alternative.

Edited by SNIPE

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Does it have to be axle though in your case? can't you fix the two base liftarms together at the required distance and use pin-axles 2L instead of the 5L axle?

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2 hours ago, SNIPE said:

You could do what the 41999 does for the doors, it puts an axle inbetween two rubber 2L liftarms. I don't know if thats too much friction or not.

Rubber bands are a good alternative.

Wow, I have to see how that is done. Is the rubber liftarm acting like a spring in that case?

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1 hour ago, technicfanatic said:

Wow, I have to see how that is done. Is the rubber liftarm acting like a spring in that case?

well, its acting as a grippy axle hole.

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Posted (edited)

@Jim could You, please, join this topic to generic building help topic?

Edited by Jurss

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How far dies it need to rotate? Maybe a 2L rubber axle in the middle, joined to the hole below, would work?

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14 hours ago, technicfanatic said:

I've seen that thread. I find it very hard to extract information from it. A FAQ type page would be more accessible than a multi-year thread with digressions. I find it much easier to have separate threads that have clear thread titles that are easily findable, especially if there are tags.

What search strategy did you try? Perhaps this is just a 'training issue'.. @Gray Gear is correct about separate threads. I opened the main thread and searched for things like 'friction' etc and got solid results for this kind of issue. Give it a go, practising search terms can pay dividends...

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6 hours ago, Jurss said:

@Jim could You, please, join this topic to generic building help topic?

It will be moved there today.

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I looked for something like that some time ago. The alternatives that I considered were:

-Add a clutch 24-teeth gear (or two!)

-add a rubber band attached to a fixed axle with a half bush

-place the axle through 2 2L-rubber liftarms. 

 

Obviously, proportions 2 and three imply a significant damage to the pieces.

 

And I also tried even a gradual-friction regulation with a linear actuator that compresses a small wheel with 2L-rubber liftarms. Was funcional, but needed a lot of space...

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Milan said:

It will be moved there today.

Cool. Thanks.

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Not sure the best place for this Q

 

I’ve been expanding my non-Technic collection (lots of space stuff) and just bought off eBay the City Spaceport set that has 3 of the 32L axle pieces in it. However they’ve not been stored great and so are all bent (thankfully a gentle curve). Rather than buying new ones does anyone have any suggestions for how to straighten them? I’ve improved them a bit by some bending and heat from rubbing fingers on them. But wondered if there’s a better method

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4 hours ago, Seasider said:

Not sure the best place for this Q

 

I’ve been expanding my non-Technic collection (lots of space stuff) and just bought off eBay the City Spaceport set that has 3 of the 32L axle pieces in it. However they’ve not been stored great and so are all bent (thankfully a gentle curve). Rather than buying new ones does anyone have any suggestions for how to straighten them? I’ve improved them a bit by some bending and heat from rubbing fingers on them. But wondered if there’s a better method

Maybe this isn't helpful, but even when I bought a brand new one direct from Lego, it did have noticeable bend. It's not an issue in a model because of how easy it is to straighten under constraint, but maybe it's just normal for these parts.

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Yeah, being long and thin, those axles bend really easily. Maybe you could build a sort of "cage" for it from Technic bricks and some plates and leave it there for a while. Won't come out perfectly straight, but maybe a little straighter.

Heating and bending will get you either better results or destroyed part.

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Thanks @2GodBDGlory and @howitzer I’ve managed to get them a bit straighter using a bit of light heat from friction with my fingers and light bending. They’ve now got a gentle bend and I think I might leave it at that.

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That's probably for the best.

I would've tried to leave them in warm water for a while, slightly bent in the opposite direction. I think that wouldn't cause any additional damage at least, but I haven't tried if this method actually helps :laugh:

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Posted (edited)

Guys, as you see in the pic- usually in such part of a gearbox, a 3L Brown Axle with stop is used within which a 16t Clutch gear goes and the cross axle then connects the 3L connector with a clutch barrel put on. My question is- can I replace the 3L brown Axle with a 3L axle-pin with no friction? My concern is that clutched frictionless part of the axle-pin might face some resistance when moved specially with higher gears which the cross-axle will not (but it tends to push out slightly out of the snap-hole of the LBG axle-pin perpendicular connector and hence this question).

640x764.jpg

Edited by thekoRngear

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But this axle pin has friction? Better use the black 3L (2L axle + 1L friction pin):

18651.png

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I guess it's the new (white one #65249).

To address the question: Last year I had a similar issue with an axle moving slowing out of a differential under load. Therefore I bought these new pins. But I haven touched the model since then...

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22 hours ago, Jundis said:

But this axle pin has friction? Better use the black 3L (2L axle + 1L friction pin):

18651.png

Thanks, that 1L of friction will create resistance (or simply cannot rotate freely) in the axle shaft as the 3L connector will rotate it within the gearbox. Look at the pic below I guess you understand what I meant:

640x374.jpg

Luckily the part you mentioned is also released with no friction most recently which will be massively helpful I guess.

22 hours ago, anyUser said:

I guess it's the new (white one #65249).

To address the question: Last year I had a similar issue with an axle moving slowing out of a differential under load. Therefore I bought these new pins. But I haven touched the model since then...

Yupe. I actually tried this out. It seems fine. The clutch gears seems moving freely and the entire shaft is spinning inside the structure just like it does with cross axles.

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There's something about which I can't quite make up my mind, and I was wondering if others have an opinion. In a case like this, where a lot of torque goes through (like lifting up a heavy vehicle), is there a preferable approach?
Toggle_joints.png

In the top setup, the axle has better support, but it's weaker because it's 9L long. In the bottom setup, it's the opposite. 
Also, if you think the top setup is better, would that still be the case if the axle had to be 11L ?

Thanks!

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