Jim

[HELP] Generic Building Help Topic

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One interesting thing to know is the amount of Mocs that are produced in each subform, and to see the proportions of Mocs that get front-paged…

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I asked about this earlier and got ignored so imma just ask again. 

Is there a difference between: 

LEGO Front Wheel Bearing with Two Knuckles (11949) And LEGO Wheel Bearing Back with Cross Hole (23801 / 65766)

When i'm building IFS and using this part --> LEGO Suspension Arm with Ball Socket and Open Fork (57515 / 64872)

You kinda need to attach both of those ball cup forks together from that stud hole on the front near the ball joint cup. 
When you put those half beams there to make sure the suspension doesn't pop off when compressed, that half beam will interfere with that wheel bearings steering arm. 
So when you attach a servo, it can't turn all the way 90 degrees but it will instead turn 85 degrees. Which is an issue since the servo is now fighting against the lego parts trying to turn the whole 90 degrees. 

This will damage the lego servo over time. Why did lego not make room enough to clear that half beam? 
Does the gray wheel bearing have better clearance over the black one? 
I'm seriously annoyed about that 5 degrees turn radius issue. And i was wondering if ordering that gray bearing will fix the issue. 
That's why i'm asking if the gray one has better clearance or is it just the same. 

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IIRC, they are exactly the same, with the same problem...
There are in my opinion three solutions

  1. Change the hub for custom brick build ones.
  2. Make a bad steering geometry.
  3. Accept the problem :sarcasm_smug:

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 have a dilemma.

I'm working on what is essentially a train, but for snow.

The "locomotive" has 4 sets of tracks, and the two "cars" have skis.

Since it's going to be PF, I'm trying to figure out how to get it to turn.

One idea that might work is somehow taking the outputs for each side, and putting them together to either keep the trail connection straight, or turn depending on the difference in speed on the locomotives left, and right side.

Any ideas on a mechanism that could accomplish this?

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On 12/2/2020 at 11:45 AM, ukbajadave said:

@MisteryMan How much room do you have? Sariel has some interesting subtractor mechanisms for tracked vehicles HERE and in his Technic book.

Ah, thanks for the recommendation, I'll take a look into that.

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Bit of an unusual request - wasn't sure whether to post here on in a separate topic - but can anyone help me track down a video?

It was a Brick Experiment Channel style video comparing the strength of a plain Techic axle with different types of reinforced axle: e.g. an axle made from 2L axles and 2L connectors, an axle inside a stack of 2x2 round bricks, etc.

It might have even been a BEC video, but I've combed their channel and found nothing, and YT/Google searches are equally fruitless. (I seem to remember the experiment rig wasn't red like all of BEC's rigs.)

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1 hour ago, Glaysche said:

I think the one you are looking for may be the second video on this Akiyuki blog post.

https://akiyuki.jp/en/1548

 

Oh wow, this is great information, thanks for digging this up. I'm quite surprised especially about the increased stiffness of the 2L axle/connector variant as compared to plain axle.

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how do u find gear ratio is it driver gear divided by follower or vice versa? and also what happens if u have two sets of gears

 

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4 minutes ago, MY1 said:

how do u find gear ratio is it driver gear divided by follower or vice versa? and also what happens if u have two sets of gears

 

Here's an old and thus somewhat incomplete, but otherwise nice tutorial on the basics of gears: http://sariel.pl/2009/09/gears-tutorial/

And here's a ratio calculator: http://gears.sariel.pl/

Edited by howitzer

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Don't want to start a new topic to ask this, but does anyone know what's going on with the 'Hall of Fame'? I thought of it as a catalogue of the best and brightest the Eurobricks community has to offer, but there's not been any additions to it for some time, despite some great MOC's being created.  Is it no longer being updated?

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Anyone have advice on finding custom produced/non-Lego technic parts and/or making your own? For a while I have wanted to be able to get technic half pins and 3/4 pins but with friction ridges. Since Lego doesn't offer any, I have been trying to find non-Lego or custom options but have struggled to find any. So far I've done deep searches on Aliexpress and Google with no results. I've had some luck contacting sellers on Aliexpress directly and putting in a request for them to produce the piece which I will likely try if I can't find any. 

I've also looked at options for designing/producing the parts myself. I thought about a resin mold but as the part doesn't currently exist, I feel that would be harder to get exact. I've considered shapeways, but don't fully understand their pricing and fear that it would be quite expensive for cheap pins.

Anyway, any and all advice would be appreciated.

Also, 

17 hours ago, CrankyCraig said:

does anyone know what's going on with the 'Hall of Fame'?... Is it no longer being updated?

I'm sorry CrankyCraig but I don't know. It'd be sad if if was no longer being updated. Hopefully someone else knows more.

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5 hours ago, jrs said:

and fear that it would be quite expensive for cheap pins

You don't have knowledge how prices are set. For small amounts You just can't get low price.

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47 minutes ago, Jurss said:

You don't have knowledge how prices are set. For small amounts You just can't get low price.

Correct. I’m expecting $50-100 for only a few pieces and don’t want to spend that much. I meant cheap pins as in quality and functionality not price. 

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I am trying to link the steering I made based on the one posted by SaperPL in "Steering mechanism for tight wheel wells?" to multiple wheels to get 4 wheel steering.

To problem I am running into is that there is a lot of backlash. Does someone know a good way to minimalise that?

[ picture removed ]

[ picture removed ]

The reason for steering on the backwheels is because I need a lot of room in the front. The backlash problem is in the front wheels.

There are only two gears, so all backlash is caused by the friction-less pins as far as I can see. When you fix the back wheels, you can turn the entire front wheels by pushing gently.

It gets a lot worse when driving in reverse.

Edited by Lira_Bricks
I locked everything in place to check where the backlash was the worst, and it is caused by the steering itself, not by the link between he steering

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does anyone know if LEGO will replace pieces that were individually bought? For example, let's say hypothetically I bought 4 sets of 1:10 scale tires and rims, and hypothetically my dog got one of the tires and absolutely destroyed the rubber. could I say that I have a damaged piece and get a new tire for free. 

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This may be a dumb question, but how do you guys plan out modifications to original models? Let's say there is something I want to modify on a Model A, and said modifications should be performed at an early stage of the building, how do you envision what goes where?

For instance, if I add something, how do I know that wouldn't mess something else later on? Is it trial and error?

Specifically, I want to modify the outriggers on 42108 (I know that there are some MOCs out there that does that, I just wanted to experiment for myself). How do I plan ahead for later steps? This may be an easy one, since I can clearly see what room is left after I'm done, but what if I want to modify the gearbox on 42082?

But this is more a general kind of question, I hope that makes sense.

For reference, I bought my first sets after 25 years... I used to build very small Technic sets when I was a kid. 1k+ sets look massive to me! 

Thanks!

Edited by Xour

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You need to gain some common knowledge, how technic works. Start with some easy reachable parts.

You can also first start modifying digital model.

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First thing I do before any modifications is build the original set, unmodified. Then I start tinkering, much the same way I would do with a MOC.

Also, yes, using a digital file in parallel could help, where you can freely delete stuff from the set and replace it with other stuff. But switch to the physical model frequently, so you can check movements, stiffness, etc.

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20 minutes ago, Erik Leppen said:

First thing I do before any modifications is build the original set, unmodified. Then I start tinkering, much the same way I would do with a MOC.

Also, yes, using a digital file in parallel could help, where you can freely delete stuff from the set and replace it with other stuff. But switch to the physical model frequently, so you can check movements, stiffness, etc.

That's what I do when building a MOC, especially if it has any complex gearings or whatever. I have a selection of parts on the table in front of my computer, and I can switch freely between digital and physical models, building both at the same time.

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Thank you all. I'm not familiar with the software you mention, but I'll google it up. Thanks again!

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