[HELP] Generic Building Help Topic

[Jim]

1 minute ago, MikeTwo9398 said:

I Thanks I know what happens. 
But first check if the red differential is standing still when you rotatie the back wheels. 
If so then the front wheels will rotate in the other  direction because of the differential.

Rotate the front and the back wheels at the same time in the same direction.
Then the red differential should also rotate including the fake motor.

Smart thinking! 

[pleegwat]

6 hours ago, Jim said:

You can see in my picture (that pic is from my review, not his pic) that both diffs are on the same side. And my model is working properly. So both diffs on the same side is correct.

You'll also note that the yellow 20 teeth gear driving each differential is in the back. The main drive axle runs above the rear differential and connects down the back.

Normally, the 'differentials the other way around' rule applies because one differential is driven from the front, while the other is driven from the back.

[Ravertux]

Thanks everyone,

This is exactly what happens: Due to high friction the gears inside the red differential rotate instead of the whole differential.

Is this the same on your sets? Seems I rebuilt it for nothing...

Edited March 18, 2020 by Ravertux

[MikeTwo9398]

Yes I have the same issues. I think almost everybody.

If you change the gear setting friction becomes less.

You can have also cracking gears. In the long 42110 topic a few causes are mentioned.

Just shift the low friction gear and the car runs very nice.

[ukbajadave]

Generic building help needed please.

Can you easily mesh Technic 14L gear rack with Technic 2L worm gear?

At the moment I'm driving the rack with a PF medium motor and 12 tooth gear. At full extension once the motor power is off the rack drops slightly.

Any advice gratefully received 

[Jurss]

It works with that new larger wormgear. For this some half stud distance will be needed, most porbably. But You know that already.

Maybe You can try to put that wormgoear somewhere else, and that drives some gear, which then drives that 12T gear.

[Jurss]

Also picture of what You have now would help. LDD (I don't know if there is that rack) or Stud.io file would be even better.

[doug72]

55 minutes ago, Jurss said:

It works with that new larger wormgear. For this some half stud distance will be needed, most porbably. But You know that already.

Maybe You can try to put that wormgoear somewhere else, and that drives some gear, which then drives that 12T gear.

This works without 1/2 L offset

 

Edited March 20, 2020 by Doug72

[ukbajadave]

@Jurss @Doug72 Thanks for the quick replies. It seems the larger diameter worm gear is the answer to my quandary as it seems much easier to build in system than the longer one.

Having now sat down with the parts in my hands I have also today learned that the Gear rack housing has chamfered edges at the top to allow closer placement of the gear.

[doug72]

Just now, ukbajadave said:

 

Having now sat down with the parts in my hands I have also today learned that the Gear rack housing has chamfered edges at the top to allow closer placement of the gear.

The gear rack housing with its gear rack is vey strong and the new worm fits perfectly.

[Jurss]

1 hour ago, Doug72 said:

This works without 1/2 L offset

 

I read it now, and now in understand how it sounds. Second sentence was about older/smaller wormgear, about which @ukbajadave asked.

[Jundis]

I have a question about pneumatics: I'm currently building a model where I can't avoid long pneumatic hoses. Does it make sense to combine a pneumatic pump driven by an L-motor with an airtank or should I go without the airtank?

[TechnicRCRacer]

@JundisAn air tank will enable the cylinders to move faster for longer. I think it would make sense in any application if you can justify the cost (they are very expensive!)

[Jundis]

7 hours ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

An air tank will enable the cylinders to move faster for longer

Thanks. The airtank is rather cheap in contrast to 3 of the these cylinders *crying*....

[TechnicRCRacer]

2 hours ago, Jundis said:

Thanks. The airtank is rather cheap in contrast to 3 of the these cylinders *crying*....

Yeah, they only appeared in one set. Be VERY careful when buying cylinders used, 9 of mine are duds.

[tomek9210]

Hi, can anyone help me with this:

LDD hasn't got this part in its inventory: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=52730&idColor=85#T=C&C=85

Can anyone measure it in comparison to this part: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=42610&in=S

I need to try the size before I order parts.

Thanks!

[Jurss]

I don't know, what exactly You want, but

 

[tomek9210]

Thank you! I need to substitute it in LDD and I figured it would be similiar in size to that piece.

[jwarner]

Hey everyone! College craziness swept me away from Lego for a while just as TLG began phasing in their new motor system (Control+/PUP?). I'm picking back up an old motorized project but I'm only familiar with the old PF parts. Particularly, I can't figure out if any of the new parts have servo capabilites, or if the Control+ app allows for MOC compatibility yet. Anyone care to update me?

[Jurss]

New system allows something like stept/indexed motor, that is used now for steering.

Main issue is, that there are no officiall possibilities to create custom profiles, You can just use 3 existing configurations.

[jwarner]

Gotcha, thanks for the info. Maybe one more reason to stick with my PF for the time being...

[CrankyCraig]

On 1/16/2020 at 11:26 AM, Seasider said:

I think this classes as going here.

Does anyone know what angle to rotate a Technic Engine block to in Stud.io (or LDD come to think of it) to get it to fit to a Engine end piece to make a standard V engine?

This is the exact point where I gave up with Stud.io, at least until I find an easier way of doing it. I figured there must be a less painful way other than trial/error to get multiple pieces to converge at a point and avoid interaction. Trying to connect suspension pieces cooked my brain. Is there no way to manipulate or drag an item item through it's possible x/y/z possitions while keeping it fixed to a point? Or even to be able to view possible connection points? Maybe the key to this revolves in the connection tool. I'd love to see a tutorial/guide or similar on how to connect pieces at more unusual angles, to see how you guys do it.

[Didumos69]

8 hours ago, CrankyCraig said:

This is the exact point where I gave up with Stud.io, at least until I find an easier way of doing it. I figured there must be a less painful way other than trial/error to get multiple pieces to converge at a point and avoid interaction. Trying to connect suspension pieces cooked my brain. Is there no way to manipulate or drag an item item through it's possible x/y/z possitions while keeping it fixed to a point? Or even to be able to view possible connection points? Maybe the key to this revolves in the connection tool. I'd love to see a tutorial/guide or similar on how to connect pieces at more unusual angles, to see how you guys do it.

The V-engine piece uses the same angle as the bent liftarms. To rotate any piece to this angle: place an axle on the ground. Place a bent liftarms next to it along with the piece you want to rotate. Now select the bent liftarm and the piece you want to rotate and connect the angled axle hole of the liftarm to the axle. Now you rotated the liftarm and your piece. Finally delete the auxiliary parts.

Btw, the bent liftarms and the V-engine piece are all strongly related to the Pythagorean triple (3,4,5). See also this thread for more info:

Edited May 14, 2020 by Didumos69

[CrankyCraig]

Thanks very much, that's certainly good to know, but how about the crankshaft, piston rods and heads? Is there not some even trickier angling required there?

I've no doubt you'll recognise the model I picked as a first venture into the world of digital replication. Agrof's class 1 unlimited buggy - my favourite MOC to date, one which I've created a few mods for (and intend to post) and hoped to develop further digitally. The specific difficulty I had in doing this I've circled below:

These pieces connect to each of the rear arms and remove some of the lateral movement. Connecting them on the actual model obviously takes less than a second, but is there a way of doing that here just as easily? Is there a way of saying to Stud.io 'look, forget about x/y/z angles for a moment... just do whatever it takes to connect these pieces'? 

[agrof]

For engine build, and for particular small assemblies I use rather LDD, and then import it into Stud.io. Unfortunately the snap constrains are not very good in latter, but it has the potential. There is no need to fuzzle to build a V8 engine (as example), once somebody did it already. Just take an LDD official model with the required assembly (V8 fake engine as example, included in 42039), undress it by deleting unnecessary parts, save, and import it into Stud.io model.

I don't see exactly where and how you would like to connect those arms, but maybe an idea to use sub-assemblies, which can be rotated separately. Might be that it will ruin a model though, due to overconstraining.

BTW, some upgrade for the swingarm mount (quoted from original topic):

On 12/5/2017 at 1:51 PM, agrof said:

A while ago, @Didumos69 made a clever patch for the rear swingarms. With this MOD, the inner hinge parts (yellow connector #1) can not disconnect. I applied it (~ 10 minutes build), and I am very satisfied with the result! 

Thanks Didumos!