SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 7, 2020 I didn't finish the tender because I'm running on fumes - I will get it tomorrow. Also, I am aware that the top "blade" for the nose doesn't work - after playing with dozens of parts for upwards of 90 minutes, I decided that a custom piece was called for. I feel like we're kind of loose-y goose-y when it comes to custom pieces in train tech to begin with, so this isn't as much of a reach as it might be. I think everyone here knows what this one is supposed to look like, but I'll include proto photos anyway. The model: I'm really happy with the skylining - I didn't know if the slight angle would work or not. But, in the end, I feel like the small gaps are worth the price to achieve the proper shape. If anyone had any good ideas about the top blade, I am all ears. Thanks for looking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pdaitabird Posted January 7, 2020 Wow. Looks really good and instantly recognizable! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil B Posted January 7, 2020 (edited) How about rotating the dome pieces on the nose by 90 degrees (so that the split line runs vertically instead of horizontally) and just sliding a colored piece of paper in the split? Edit: no need to rotate as they are quarter circle domes. Even easier. Edited January 7, 2020 by Phil B Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry McGlade Posted January 7, 2020 I love the curved parts of the front, so sleek. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1963maniac Posted January 7, 2020 That's a real beauty. Get you three pairs of those big train wheels instead of the gears. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, 1963maniac said: That's a real beauty. Get you three pairs of those big train wheels instead of the gears. Yup. That's the plan. The only problem is that Schupp's drivers look to me to be in the 70-74 inch diameter ballpark, whereas the J3s had 79 inch wheels. I know this doesn't sound like that much, but it had the effect of skewing the proportions of the engine very slightly. The other - bigger - issue is that the running boards are a plate too low. Because of the way the boiler is designed, I could either choose structural rigidity, or something that was aesthetically a bit closer to the mark. I went with the former, but it's still "off" to my eyes. Unfortunately, such are the limits of our artistic medium :P. Edited January 8, 2020 by SteamSewnEmpire Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 8, 2020 Here's the full loco. It has 2 large can motors - one in the engine, and one in the tender: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roadmonkeytj Posted January 9, 2020 Love it! What is holding the claw piece over the dome above the light? PS if you don't tell people it's a plate off they will never know. And stud counters can kick rocks cause it's looks great! PPS zehper has ladders available that look a little better scale wise than the rod and 2l half beams. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALCO Posted January 9, 2020 (edited) Thats a really nice looking Hudson! I'm assuming the motor in the engine is powering the lead or trailing trucks? It looks like most of the engine's weight will be on the drivers so whatever wheels you are using will not add much to tractive effort. Edited January 9, 2020 by ALCO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 9, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Roadmonkeytj said: Love it! What is holding the claw piece over the dome above the light? PS if you don't tell people it's a plate off they will never know. And stud counters can kick rocks cause it's looks great! PPS zehper has ladders available that look a little better scale wise than the rod and 2l half beams. I'll look into the ladders. And the claw part is just a placeholder. It's going to require a custom piece. 1 hour ago, ALCO said: Thats a really nice looking Hudson! I'm assuming the motor in the engine is powering the lead or trailing trucks? It looks like most of the engine's weight will be on the drivers so whatever wheels you are using will not add much to tractive effort. Actually, the motor powers the drivers. There's also a second motor in the tender powering one of those trucks. Edited January 9, 2020 by SteamSewnEmpire Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALCO Posted January 10, 2020 9 hours ago, SteamSewnEmpire said: Actually, the motor powers the drivers. There's also a second motor in the tender powering one of those trucks. How are you going to sync the motors? The size of the driver wheels will cause the motor in the tender to have to run faster to keep up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 10, 2020 43 minutes ago, ALCO said: How are you going to sync the motors? The size of the driver wheels will cause the motor in the tender to have to run faster to keep up. I dunno. This begs the question: will I ever run it? Which seems unlikely. I guess if Lego's tech isn't up to that yet, I'll wait until such time as it is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roadmonkeytj Posted January 10, 2020 12 hours ago, SteamSewnEmpire said: I dunno. This begs the question: will I ever run it? Which seems unlikely. I guess if Lego's tech isn't up to that yet, I'll wait until such time as it is. If you use the new PU you can make a custom controller in the API that applies different power to the separate motors at one button push. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 10, 2020 3 minutes ago, Roadmonkeytj said: If you use the new PU you can make a custom controller in the API that applies different power to the separate motors at one button push. That's likely not in LDD, I take it? Do you happen to know what its dimensions are? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roadmonkeytj Posted January 10, 2020 Take the wedo battery box with the medium wedo motor plugged in for plug clearance ... You will have to add a brick to get the right height ... The powered up us exactly the same dimensions as the PF non rechargeable box. However the top is just studs as there is no pf cable connection anymore Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 10, 2020 2 hours ago, Roadmonkeytj said: Take the wedo battery box with the medium wedo motor plugged in for plug clearance ... You will have to add a brick to get the right height ... The powered up us exactly the same dimensions as the PF non rechargeable box. However the top is just studs as there is no pf cable connection anymore So do I need to incorporate the boost hub, or just the hub and motors? And what has become of the powerfunctions infrared sensor? Is that just no longer necessary? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 10, 2020 (edited) Okay, now I am just all over the place. What is the best option here? 1) I could stick with PF and remove the additional motor in the tender. While this would half the locomotive's power, it would also be the easiest choice, would lighten the tender significantly, and wouldn't require dramatically reconfiguring the internals of the locomotive to accommodate different motors. I might also - conceivably - be able to move the battery box from the tender into the locomotive, thus increasing overall weight there, though I haven't investigated that option, as I never thought it would be necessary. 2) I could go with the Powered Up medium motors in both the Loco and the Tender (did Lego never release the PU XL motor? I cannot find it listed anywhere). Do I then need to use the boost hub, too? 3) A lot of people seem to use the WeDo motors from the Batmobile, though this comes with the same difficulties as option 2), since it will require altering the internals rather dramatically to make them fit. The most that this locomotive would ever be expected to pull is its own tender plus three scale coaches (I would never invest in more). If a single PF XL motor is enough to accomplish this, when powering the main drivers, then that's all I need. If it's not, and the second motor is a definite requirement, then I suppose PU is necessary. But I need to figure this out (and make necessary changes if applicable) now, and not when I am assembling things. As an aside, the more I look at Lego's power options, the less regard I hold the company in. These rapid shifts from one system to another only seem to be having the effect of letting the customer base down. Parts aren't a smart phone; I don't think people, and especially children, should be asked to "upgrade" every year or so, and I expect Lego to settle on a system and stand by it for at least 10 years. Releasing multiple - in some cases, seemingly competing - systems is nothing but a headache. Edited January 10, 2020 by SteamSewnEmpire Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 10, 2020 Also, would using two Powered Up XL motors then require 2 battery packs? I read that you can only use one motor per pack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M_slug357 Posted January 10, 2020 (edited) @SteamSewnEmpire I attempted something similar with a mod of 10194 that had an xL motor powering xxL drivers with a pf train motor as backup in the tender. For power, I originally used an Sbrick and that 4x14 stud long AA battery box, but then the Sbrick software just couldn’t stop crashing. Neither could my modded EN. After that disappointment I switched back to using the PF v1 reciever, but then realized it was prone to overheating a lil bit — the setup also had 2 stock PF light units tossed in there as well. When my EN was operational, it seemed to work best only at maximum speed while pulling two to four 500-piece coaches. Personally, you might want to look up @wes_turngrate’s xL motor mod that eliminates one of the reduction stages inside of the motor. hope this helps? EN 2.0 w/ XXL wheels by Nick Jackson, on Flickr Edited January 11, 2020 by M_slug357 added link Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 10, 2020 Honestly, my LDD is crashing every time I attempt to save the model right now. I am so frustrated with this terrible program that I'm on the verge of just giving the whole thing up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roadmonkeytj Posted January 10, 2020 Before you load a file open your settings and adjust your safe mode ... I have to run mine in safe mode anytime I get over 10,000 bricks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phil B Posted January 10, 2020 Just switch over to Stud.io .... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 10, 2020 16 minutes ago, Phil B said: Just switch over to Stud.io .... The nonsensical division of parts in Stud.io makes it completely unusable for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roadmonkeytj Posted January 11, 2020 1 hour ago, SteamSewnEmpire said: The nonsensical division of parts in Stud.io makes it completely unusable for me. Build it in LDD then convert it to stud.io to add the final parts (including BBB wheels; you have to load the mlcad files to the custom parts folder) I've found if you know what the parts called on BL it's searchable ... I still prefer LDD for ease of use ... The camera control alone plus the library Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SteamSewnEmpire Posted January 11, 2020 I'm increasingly of the belief that the PU XL motor isn't going to work with this particular model - it's simply too big, and I am having to make structural concessions in order to get it into the locomotive. Does anyone think two PU Mediums will be enough? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
