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Matteo1130

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Hi all,

I’m Matteo from Italy. Honestly this is not the sub-forum that i read most, but after looking at this, well.. interesting!

Now i’ve earned myself this under roof space that my wife doesn’t want because “ugh, spiders!!” and i’m planning to build a mini railroad and a small train just to have fun.

I’m already reading as much as i can about trains on this portal, but i still need some direct tip: which width, 6, 7 or 8 studs? Do i need a train base or is there any guide to made traction with M or L lego motors for who don’t know about engineering? Where to find inspiration (maybe for italian trains)?

Thanks for reading!

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Welcome Matteo! 6wide would be the least cost but you would have to sacrifice detail. You could easily get started with 6wide by purchasing some of the train sets. 8wide can be much more detailed but also a lot more expensive.  As for inspiration for Italian trains look at the trains running through your town or the nearest town with rail access. As for techniques there is a wealth of information here in this forum. Or you can find 3rd party instructions just to see how the builder did whatever it is you are trying to emulate. Hope that helps!

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It really helps. Perhaps i may make some try.. the only thing i need to start is: do i need the official train base? Or may i just use some power function motor? In this case is there any tutorial for the gearpack? Because i think it would be better to make the working part and build all around that..

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53 minutes ago, Matteo1130 said:

It really helps. Perhaps i may make some try.. the only thing i need to start is: do i need the official train base? Or may i just use some power function motor? In this case is there any tutorial for the gearpack? Because i think it would be better to make the working part and build all around that..

You don't need the official train base but it makes things much more easy. You can look at the Emerald Night building instructions if you want to have an example for a gearpack.

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It all depends on your interests and how extensive you MOC. I personally think the Horizon Express could be a great starting point, I suspect it has gotten expensive but it shouldn't be too bad to rebuild it in a different color. If you are a railfan, then the obvious train to build would be whatever is your favorite train (well, start small, so your favorite small train). If you are not much of a railfan, see if the city train sets are enough for your interests, or the Harry Potter, or the Disney trains. I think the current city passenger train works well on many levels in this regard.

I think there are several places in the EU that sell train instructions or complete sets. Keep in mind that those routes probably will not be cheap, but you will get something nicer than a normal lego set.

In terms of building it yourself, I like the train baseplates simply because they are strong and simple to work with. Even if you start out with MOCs getting one of the city train sets is a great parts pack since it will give you a few baseplates and all the electronics you need. Straight track is generally expensive while curves are cheap. Stay away from flex track except possibly in limited situations.

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Thanks a lot for suggestions. I’ll probably look for emerald night gearpack, if it’s in my range... otherwise the train base will work (i don’t need to make a 100% accurate reproduction). 

Trains from TLG... well, they look too modern or ancient to me. I woukd really like to make a short-track train like ours “regionale”, with a late ‘900 look. High speed trains looks great, but they’re not for me.

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Hi,

another easy way to get started is to buy a plan from BrickTrainDepot.com.

You can get the instructions in pdf and xml-file of the required parts that’s easy to upload to BrickLink where you can purchase the parts. If you are uncertain, I’m happy to help.

After inspecting plans from great designers, you can soon start making your own designs. I’m indeed constructing my own Union Pacific Challenger on “Month 11” in the LEGO hobby. So you can make the learning curve pretty fast by inspecting and adapting. The LEGO train community is also very helpful and approachable

Union Pacific Challenger 1:48

 

Edited by Henry 991

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Really interesting, but very expensive to be just plans... i think i’ll try to figure something my own. Maybe i’ll correct that later. 

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19 minutes ago, Matteo1130 said:

Really interesting, but very expensive to be just plans... i think i’ll try to figure something my own. Maybe i’ll correct that later. 

It’s good to be aware of the costs.

The bill of materials for the Challenger comes at:

-  parts 280 EUR (I live in Europe as well and use the German, Polish, Hungarian etc BrickLink stores a lot)

- motors (3 x XL) ~50 EUR

- FX Brick controller, lights and  speaker ~120 EUR

- wheels (I’m using 3D printed which are expensive) 50++ EUR
- the pushrods are valvegear on top

- stickers


If you choose to build an 8-stud wide 1:48 scale big locomotive, it will cost you. With the plan, you also get the stickers so I consider it indeed good value for money.

Edited by Henry 991

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My advice to anyone starting with this hobby:

1. Look at LEGO Train sets from the last decade and decide if there is any one you particularly like. Ideally look at those that come with track and electrical components (so excluding Maersk, Horizon Express and Emerald Night).

2. If the set is still produced, buy it. If the set is no longer produced, see if you can get it Used for (relatively) cheap. Just note that current sets will give you PowerUp electronics, but older sets will give you Power Functions, and the systems do not (yet) mix.

3. Build it and see how everything works

4. Use this as the base to MOC up something else. Stick to the trainbase and 6w until you get the hang of building your own models

5. Start looking at additional electrical components (motors etc) for your MOC trains. You can buy these from LEGO (lego.com > Customer Service > Replacement Parts or lego.com > Pick-a-Brick (Smaller selection)) or from BrickLink/BrickOwl. I would avoid EBay as dedicated electrical component listings there tend to charge more than you would pay from LEGO or BL/BO.

6. Install Stud.io and learn how to make digital designs/prototypes

7. Experiment with 8 wide, or if you are masochistic, 7 wide digital builds

8. If you think you have something you'd like to build IRL, start BrickLink/BrickOwl shopping using the parts list from Stud.io and the battery boxes/motors etc. you bought in step 5.

9. Spend $1000+ dollars.

Done.

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As a note to Phil B. You can also buy the electrical components in the lego stores (but you have to ask the employees) or you can buy them in the powered up/ Power functions category in the lego shop.

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Personally I like 8 wide, as it allows for more detail, and the extra width really comes in handy if you plan on motorizing your trains. 
6 wide, on the other hand, integrates better with TLG’s train sets, and is cheaper. Ultimately, it comes down to whether or not you want/need the extra detail that 8 wide allows. If you’re not too fussed about the detail, then I would definitely go with 6 wide.

Clutch Builder

Edited by Clutch Builder
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Matteo1130

Welcome to the train corner. Things can be a bit busy and feel overwhelming but everyone is friendly and welcome to help.

I recall seeing several Italian train MOCs the last few months in this forum. A quick search or clicking back a few pages on the list of threads sure turn them up. Perhaps you can find some inspiration there. But as others have mentioned you can also look around the area where you live for sources of inspiration.

3D LEGO

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As a fellow beginner in this area, I can heartily recommend HoMa's book ^^^ (Treni Lego - Ediz. a colori) as an EXCELLENT guide on how to start building train MOCs with LEGO.

Edited by izx

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Thanks all for suggestions. Have to say: 8 studs is interesting, but i’m afraid i would leave it half way in a while.. maybe it’s better to start with an easier project.

Those books seems to be a great start, also considering italian language and train type!! 
 

Firstly had the Santa Fe plans from TLG official page, for reading and hopefully understanding the basics.

Edit: my first attempt was to use sone space to build a countryside quarter (houses, minimarket, police station, service station) like in late 80’s sets. In this i’d like to insert a train station, so i reached this sub-forum... and got trapped!!! Back to the original project: an 8 stud train may look bulky in this background :hmpf_bad:

Edited by Matteo1130

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Luckly i’ve landed a portal with some free mocs building instructions.. much more for freights than passenger, but it’s a way to break ice.

BTW it would be nice a freight too, if included in a countryside landscape.

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Some more questions: i’ve seen multiple train motor choices (power functions, powered up electrics, 12v, 4,5v) and also some stand alone motors too, moving simple design gearboxes.

Do i need a train base, for power and strenght, or a M/L motor with a simple gearbox does better?

In both cases, if i apply two motors to a train engine, does the first bothers in any way the second, or just do i have more traction?

Thanks for reading!!

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You can have as many motors as your design allows. Just make sure that they work with eachother, not against eachother. This means:

- If you use PF/PU train motor bogies, their forward direction needs to be the same. With PF you do this by using a pole reverter switch or by mounting both motors with the electrical cord on the same side (which means one motor will have the cord in the center of your base and the other has the cord sticking out towards the end of your engine base. With PU you do this in software AFAIK.

- If you use individual motors (M / L / XL), make sure they are of the same type, and that your gearing is set up in de same direction for all motors. Some people add differentials to the gearing to use multiple motors to drive one axle (this eliminates tiny differences in torque and speed).

For a base: if you are building 6w, the preformed LEGO train bases are your best starting point. They have holes for cables and mounting holes for bogie plates (both standalone as well as the pins on top of train motor bogies). They do restrict you to a 2 plate thick base, and only come in a few sizes (6x24 and 6x28 being the most common). Building your own starts paying off when you go beyond 6w, or when you design complex drive-train mechanisms. They work best for “modern” train designs; steam engines are better built using custom bases.

Hope this helps.

 

 

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Helps alot. 
So both PU train base or motors can be inverted by a software, this looks convenient in terms of space, if compared to PF.

Edit: multiple motors on one axle with differential is extremely interesting, may i find this on this portal?

Edited by Matteo1130
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