MILS tips and tricks - Educate me

[Roadmonkeytj]

So this conversation began in a pm but It could be a benefit as an open discussion.

If your not familiar with MILS then check it out here.

So we all know MILS is parts intensive ... However it makes a nice sturdy base that can be packed up and taken from show to show.

I have two tables for my interactive train yard to sit on.  I need 56 32x32 bases so I plugged this into LDD to give me a BOM.  I then plugged this into bricklink.  

It's roughly 1000 dollars worth of bricks and plates and I haven't even ballasted the track yet ....

So educate me oh masters of MILS.   What are the tips and tricks on not breaking the bank just on everything below the tracks lol 

[Pdaitabird]

There are two main ways to go about it:

1 - Be born into a wealthy family.

2 - Marry into a wealthy family.

I'm going to have to work on the second option if I'm ever going to ballast more than a circle of track.

[legobanker]

I'm by no means a MILS professional, but I'm doing the L-Guage MILS plates for track.  My suggestion is this:  check Amazon for discounted 32x32 baseplates (in bright green and blue).  They are $4.99 USD with a maximum of 27 per person.  With Prime, you get free shipping.  I've ordered my tiles from shop@home Brocks & Pieces.  I used VIP rewards to help offset the cost and it's free shipping over 35 dollars.  Only problem is, you have to wait for it to come (5 to 20 days).  What I want to design is gonna cost a fortune :-(.  I've had to make adjustments over and over again.  If you have access to a LUG, that's the best way to get bulk parts at a cheap price.  Good luck in your search and show us some pictures.

[Roadmonkeytj]

10 minutes ago, Pdaitabird said:

There are two main ways to go about it:

1 - Be born into a wealthy family.

2 - Marry into a wealthy family.

I'm going to have to work on the second option if I'm ever going to ballast more than a circle of track.

Well my father is well off ... But I work for a living ... Unless the unforseen happens option 1 is out ....

If you get lucky enough with option 2 can you send her sister my way lol

[Toastie]

I'd go with @Pdaitabird

Whenever I looked into the MILS way of living, I thought: How on earth do they get the funding for that. Nice idea, concept, even working mechanics ... but: How to pay for it?

You can look for as many bargain/bulk/whatever deals. At the end of the day you will have to pay - a lot - for the MILS way. But then: Other hobbies are very expensive as well. And: Many, many people here on EB seem to spend a lot of money for their hobby. Which is nice to see and read - but not in my reach.

Best
Thorsten 

[hallidaynick]

Our lug developed a modified MILS system, its basically just higher which allows more depth.  

Lego isn't a cheap hobby to start with but $1000 isn't that bad to cover 56 bps. 

I've now worked my way through a lot of bps doing it and I've found if you want to make it cheaper the best way is to make the most of used parts. 

Buy bulk lots of garage sales or charity shops etc, take out all the bricks and plates (of colours you don't use, I put away all the greys, tans, greens and browns for builds) and use that for support. All bricks will work you don't have to use 2x4 standard in one colour. My bases are rainbows and of all sizes but still follow the standard in shape (see below). 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/nicks-brick-land/48580491961/in/photostream/

spend the money where its needed on the green plates or grass etc. baseplates can be the worst looking ones you have. I've used yellow, red and even ones painted with an island. 

 

I guess the main thing is if you don't see it, it doesn't matter what it looks like so be creative in your parts use. 

[supertruper1988]

I have a bunch of free instructions over at bricktraindepot.com they match the L-Gauge look but are about 100 parts less per 32x32 double straight module. The curves are going to cost you more and the best place to buy the tile for them in from LEGO S@H Pick-A-Brick much cheaper than Bricklink and you can get 1000 at a time which is a lot. 

There is a seller in California that sells 4x4 green plate for cheaper than anyplace I have seen. He changes his shop name around tho so just search 4x4 green and he is the highest qty availble in the world. 

2x2 brick is a good deal at $0.03/each so any store with that price, no matter the color, gets added on whenever I buy on bricklink. 

MILS is parts intense but the benefits are worth it to me. 

As for the actual baseplate, you can buy them on sale on amazon as suggested but if you are part of a Recognized LUG you can also participate in the LEGO LugBulk program which can save you money on parts. 

[zephyr1934]

3 hours ago, supertruper1988 said:

As for the actual baseplate, you can buy them on sale on amazon as suggested but if you are part of a Recognized LUG you can also participate in the LEGO LugBulk program which can save you money on parts. 

Yes, if you are not in a LUG and you are thinking of building a lot, LUGBULK is the way to go. Can't discuss any details about the prices, but they are usually a good deal. If you do shows but not in a LUG, gather the minimum number of friends and make your own LUG. One of the big reasons Lego created LUGBULK was specifically stuff like MILS that that support displays.

Also keep in mind that you do not need to use new base plates, look for beat up road plates on BL or wherever. If you are not a purist, you could buy some of the clone brand baseplates (I think I've seen some that are 2.5 ft x 10 in, if so, you could cut them down to 32x32). If you really are not a purist you could even use M*** B*** for the filler, I bet you could get that for the price of shipping from folks around here. I'm not endorsing the use of off brand parts, but man, when I made a few road plates with streetcar tracks I was stunned at the price for a 32x32, that could have made a nice train car. If it is any consolation, where we often use baseplates or MILS for displays, I believe Legoland usually uses dirt and the Discovery Centers use painted plywood.

 

[SteamSewnEmpire]

I would never, ever travel with Lego willingly. I guess I'm not the target audience here.

In my experience, building an elaborate base can often approach doubling your part count - even for projects brick-hungry (on their own) as castles. I don't think there *is* a work-around to that.

Edited December 5, 2019 by SteamSewnEmpire

[raised]

Haha these were exactly my wonders when I started building MILS. It's just soooo expensive, if you want to do it 'right' the first time. So here's my cheat sheet:

 

1. LUGBULK. Always LUGBULK. And if not (because your LUG for example only orders 20 types of leaves *ducks*), then try the following steps:

2. Don't try to build your whole dream layout at once. Just do it in babysteps, every year a bit. So this year you might build like 8 modules, next year another 5, the year after another 10. That keeps your balance in checks, and also, you don't have the time to build all of that stuff anyways. Trust me, building MILS can be pretty boring ;) 

3.1 Always buy your baseplates in discount / second hand. Never first hand for full price, that's just crazy. (Or just do a long-term borrowing from one of your high school friends and never return them, so 10 years later they are yours due to both sides having forgotten about them...)

3.2 Use roadplates whenever you can. They are anyways a lot cheaper than regular 32*32s, and I'm pretty sure you will have some of them laying around from when you were younger. Or buy them second hand in bulk, then they tend to be even cheaper.

3.3 Remember that 2 48*48s is 3 32*32s in length. Nobody forces you to use 32*32 baseplates, as long as the numbers work, it's fine. 

4. Always buy your filler bricks (2*2, 2*3, 2*4, 2*6, 2*8 etc) second / third / fourth hand. They can be totally weary and scratched, discoloured and everything: That doesn't matter, because you won't see them anyways. 

5. Use your old Duplo stack for filler bricks when you want to elevate your builds. Or get them like step 4.

6. Be creative with the green / dk green / dk grey / whatever plates you want. Don't just go for the 8*8 because it's so 'handy', but rather buy the 4*4 because they are a lot cheaper per stud. And think outside the box: Do you really need a lot of green, or are you anways going to cover it with buildings or track? If so, you can also maybe use other colours.

7. Lego Friends is your friend. Those plates and bricks in weird colours like pink, dark pink, lavender etc. can be found pretty cheap. Just don't use them when they are needed to be in sight. Unless you want a Friends-themed MILS layout, ofcourse.

8. Make use of the principle of broken landscapes. Landscapes are never one color, but several. Meaning that you can combine tan and green, or brown for example, meaning you don't need to buy all those huge and possibly expensive plates (see the link above in hallidaynick's post). Also, small plates like the 1*2 and 1*3 are pretty cheap if you cram them in a PaB cup ;) 

9.1 Try to find alternatives for the 1*1 and 1*4 tiles for sleepers. Maybe you can find 1*1 plates that are cheaper, or those 1*4 tiles with studs at the end. And then, just say they are rail spikes. Everybody will believe you, trust me. 

9.2 Try to find alternatives for the dk grey ballast. Maybe you can use Lt Grey, or even old grey, if that's cheaper. If people complain about it, you can just say thats prototypical, which in fact is indeed the case. Ballast is never only one colour!

10. Don't overdo it. No need to be a huge pro after your first try at MILS. Maybe it looks silly the first time around, so what? If you combine it with others, they won't notice what is yours anyway. Also, it will anyways blend out if you do a group layout with MILS (which is the only reason to build MILS to begin with, keep that in mind!) 

11. Accept the fact that this will be a 5 year programme MINIMUM. Set aside a couple of euros / dollars per month and go on a buying spree only once or twice a year. And then just keep that stuff in a box for 6 months untill you can afford new bricks again. Or when you are finally not lazy anymore and manage to get that stuff out of their boxes again. 

 

BTW, you could also just go to China and trade your kidneys for bricks. Just watch out they are the correct brand ;)

Edited December 5, 2019 by raised

[dr_spock]

I let others in my LUG build the modules.  I like building things that move.  I am not a building or scenery person.  Other people in my LUG like doing buildings and scenery (and have bigger incomes).

There are options to keep costs down depending on your display's target audience.  The general public doesn't really scrutinize what you have hidden underneath.  An AFOL convention is a different environment. 

 

[koalayummies]

1 hour ago, dr_spock said:

Other people in my LUG like doing buildings and scenery (and have bigger incomes).

@Pdaitabird make a move!

[M_slug357]

@raised and dont forget step #12 :

“Eat less food now so you can buy more bricks later”

Your waistline and your bank acct will thank you!

What I’ve lost in body weight over the past year, I’ve gained back triple in bricks!

 

#diethackz

[zephyr1934]

18 hours ago, raised said:

Use your old Duplo stack for filler bricks when you want to elevate your builds. Or get them like step 4.

Or for bigger builds quatro under duplo

 

18 hours ago, raised said:

Try to find alternatives for the 1*1 and 1*4 tiles for sleepers. Maybe you can find 1*1 plates that are cheaper, or those 1*4 tiles with studs at the end. And then, just say they are rail spikes. Everybody will believe you, trust me. 

Heh heh heh, I like it.

 

Another option is that you can charge venues for your display, and use that money to reinvest in your display. It is not unreasonable to ask $100-$200 for a small display.

 

And only build landscape if you want to build landscape. If you start building out of obligation rather than out of your own interest, you will burn out.

It is also okay to display without MILS, I've done three shows this year with just track on tables (including BW) and was not kicked out of any of them.