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42110 - Land Rover Defender - MODs and Improvements

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I am just about half way through building Pimp up my Defender v1.3, and noticed something worrying. Is it normal for the rims to rub against the steering arms at full lock?

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50 minutes ago, therealjustin said:

Is it normal for the rims to rub against the steering arms at full lock?

Dunno if the steering arms, but the wheels definitely rub against something at full lock in mine, and I'm 100% sure I built it correctly

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Hm, don't know guys, in my case v1.3 doesn't rub at all. Here is the image of the steering arm: https://imgur.com/a/DCDypea

BUT, I must admit the other minor issue that does exist: if you hold Defender in your hand and try to turn the front wheels not with HoG, but with your hand, then there is a bit of friction of the steering gears in the front (24t and 8t) - if you slightly press the wheel up they do connect and prevent steering. However, on the ground it steers fine, no unnecessary friction.

Hope it helps

Edited by Urbal

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On ‎12‎/‎27‎/‎2020 at 7:49 PM, pizza12 said:

Hello, I just finished building my copy of the Lego Land Rover, and it makes a cracking noise when in reverse/ hi or low/ gear 3,4. I know a lot of people are having the same issue as I am. I have searched throughout the web for an answer, but couldn't find a clear one. Some of the answers didn't work for me too. I found this one answer on Eurobricks from Twoofive: "I solved the issue by changing the 8/24 gearing to the diffs into 16/16 , works a lot better now." I don't exactly understand this answer by Twoofive. Can someone please explain this answer to me? Also if possible, please show me pictures of what it would look like after applying the answer from Twoofive. If the answer from Twoofive works to fix the problem, all credit goes to Twoofive. Thank you!

To Pizza12 - I also did this change to 16/16.  It doesn't really help with the friction and the cracking, I believe it speeds up the engine in relation to the wheels. 

2 things I changed which helped with the cracking were:

Try fliipping the front and rear differentials 180 degrees.  If you have cracking when pushing forwards, but much better when pushing backwards direction, then try this.  It improved mine a lot.  I have to be honest I don't understand why but it worked.

Changing the in-line 6 engine to an old fashioned technic v6 one.  this took some reconfiguring of the engine bay but was a fun challenge.

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Hey!

Thanks to corona lockdown I got my LandRover set and was very happy to build it up after nearly 17 years lego technic "abstinence". As I really enjoy modding stuff to perfection, I did a few upgrades and would like to share them with you. Main things include: 3rd set of hard red springs for the back axis, dual red hard springs for the front, front and rear bull-bar, trailer winch (will be upgraded soon), side-steps, snorkel, external air-filter, lightbar, some cosmetic addons i.e change of all visible blue pins to black ones and adding some round tiles, exchange of light gray parts to pearl dark grey (ladder steps and exhaust),

For the future I plan to build in a v6 classic engine, ackermann steering, a custom roof top tent, better tyres (maybe not Lego ones) and a suitable trailer thanks to jerry_sutton from rebrickable.

 

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Here is the actual update with 3rd party tires and a new Bullbar variant (Took a day to build it the classic way without studio :)). The tire size is about 90mm diameter and fits very well on the new Lego rims. No issues with steering or rubbing against the fenders. Check on ebay for 1.9 crawler wheels if you are interested.

 

 

2021-01-26-23-40-28.jpg
photo-2021-01-26-23-40-40.jpg

Edited by harrygee

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After more than a month, unfortunately, due to a bad fracture on my hand, I star again processing my defender. The extension of the chassis and bodywork is almost complete. i just miss the v6 engine!  

20210129-011836.jpg

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On 10/6/2019 at 10:15 AM, Coolusername said:

And here is how it looks like with white wheels

48851426541_de639ac317_c.jpg

Looks great imo, but i prefer not to paint the rims. Any suggestion for a light bluish gray one that would fit the wheel hub and the tyres? I found 15038 but any other suggestion is welcome (use wheel caps?).

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3 hours ago, _paulR said:

Looks great imo, but i prefer not to paint the rims. Any suggestion for a light bluish gray one that would fit the wheel hub and the tyres? I found 15038 but any other suggestion is welcome (use wheel caps?).

I hope TLG makes them in LBG or SIlver at some point. Otherwise i can only think of 15038 to fit...

Edited by Coolusername

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2 hours ago, Coolusername said:

I hope TLG makes them in LBG or SIlver at some point. Otherwise i can only think of 15038 to fit...

I saw this one on Rebrickable (Pimp up.... Fan photos). Any idea about the part number of this rim?

41609_2_25.jpg

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i really enjoy your upgrades. i did not know 1.9 tires fit on the LR. I will have to try mine as i have several versions.  

Edited by nerdsforprez

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I'm trying to make my Land Rover full RC - driving, steering, rear gearbox and winch. For now I removed middle gearbox, becouse I think it's useless. 

Servo motor for steering

IMG_20210203_183021

L motor for winch

IMG_20210203_183108

2xL motor for driving

IMG_20210203_183038

I need to change tailgate opener, becouse it doesn't fit by the driving motors. I have plan to put battery box under the roof and two IR receivers beside driving motors. I need to find a way to put somewhere motor to change gears.

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1 hour ago, _paulR said:

Any idea about the part number of this rim?

This one would most likely be a clone brand wheel

Edited by Bartybum

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1 hour ago, _paulR said:

I saw this one on Rebrickable (Pimp up.... Fan photos). Any idea about the part number of this rim?

 

in my opinion they look like porsche rims, painted in gray (part 23800)

Edited by barbanera

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58 minutes ago, barbanera said:

in my opinion they look like porsche rims, painted in gray (part 23800)

Quite common in copy-cat versions of 42056.  If I remember correctly, the Lep*% version of 42056 had rims in this color. 

Oopps.. I noticed this had been answered already....

Edited by nerdsforprez
not reading whole thread...

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My improvements so far: 

- Fake brakes at the front and the rear

- Changed all visible coloured axles and pins for black or grey ones

- Front lights built from bricks instead of using stickers

- Working door locks

- Added a third brake light

- Changed the orange pieces on the winch and the roof box for black / grey ones

- Filled the gaps on the rear bumper below the lights

- Improved trunk hinge

- Added a bar to keep the bonnet open

- Swapped the soft shock absorbers (grey) in the front with hard ones (yellow)

- Removed the limiters of the front suspension

- Attached the roof box and the traction mats to the roof rack instead of the roof

 

 

 

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IMG_5782

 

Edited by -_-Husky-_-

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On 1/21/2021 at 6:59 PM, harrygee said:

 

Here is the actual update with 3rd party tires and a new Bullbar variant (Took a day to build it the classic way without studio :)). The tire size is about 90mm diameter and fits very well on the new Lego rims. No issues with steering or rubbing against the fenders. Check on ebay for 1.9 crawler wheels if you are interested.

 

 

Would you mind posting a link to the actual tire you purchased?  I have two sets of 1.9 Rc truck tires and neither fit.  They fit the rim just fine but are too large and hit the wheel arch.  But all 1.9's obviously are not all created equal because of my two pairs one is certainly larger in diameter than the other....

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Got inspired by 4 wheel steering, to enable the car to turn more tightly. Getting the steering rack in the rear required more reworking than expected. In order to have the rear steering rack mirror the front (of the pimp my land rover version), the steering rack has to be behind the rear differential. The front uses ackermann steering, while the rear uses the original steering in the base model. 

Now trying to figure out how to integrate multiple steering modes

New lower half:

https://ibb.co/QfV97Y8

drive train updates: had to move the existing gears forward AND move the central differential down 2 studs, so now it is sticking out of the bottom chassis a little (but was able to save some 16t gears. This is because space is constrained, with an extended body rover, the center diff does not have to move down.

https://ibb.co/prDGwZz

Some issues: the rear wheels rub against the back bumper if turning AND suspension is compressed

Edited by lsquared

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Hi lads,

I fortunately have landed on this topic :) I finished my Defender at the end of January, and it was just the beginning (but my wife is not so happy with this :D). I have made some improvements, more pictures to come, still didn't resolve to lock front doors and I used just the bricks which I found at home, from other sets which are currently dusty, left by children :D (included: handbrake, imitation of clocks, imitation of gas and brake pedals, opened front mask to see how the engine is working without opening it). Good question - how to upload more pictures in one post ...

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1w28Sft9yBUyVeiTITErQqhuNv2CIbcho?usp=sharing

20210213_232123.jpg

20210218_205535.jpg

Edited by Franky23PL

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On 2/16/2021 at 4:20 PM, nerdsforprez said:

Would you mind posting a link to the actual tire you purchased?  I have two sets of 1.9 Rc truck tires and neither fit.  They fit the rim just fine but are too large and hit the wheel arch.  But all 1.9's obviously are not all created equal because of my two pairs one is certainly larger in diameter than the other....

https://www.ebay.de/itm/4-StüCk-96mm-1-9Inch-RC-Crawler-Auto-Felge-Und-Reifen-für-1-10-HSP-Redcat-Auto/383291548486?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Here is the ebay Link of the tires I bought. You can find similar other listings for different price. They do not have any special branding and many listings are the same tires. Just check the diameter and tread. It took some time to get them cheap from china but you might find them somewhere in europe. It is important to take max diameter of 96mm as all the other RC tires are too big, same experience here. When fitting then, make sure you fit the inner lips somehow into the grooves of the rim. The tires will strech just a tiny bit and flatten themselves this way. It looks a bit bulky to the side but holds super well on the rim and does not interfere with the upper panels.

Edited by harrygee

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TY for the link.  I have a few display models and 42110 will be one of them.  So, I will be doing my own version of pimp my Landy soon.  I will look into these tires.  

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