BrickWild

42110 - Land Rover Defender - MODs and Improvements

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20201119-015534.jpg

20201119-233837.jpg

in the first photo version with protruding rear as in the classic versions of the defender, in the second truncated rear as in the 2020 version.
Personally I like the first one, it's a bit long, but overall I prefer it more.

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This is becoming really nice!

Usually 4 doors have a smaller front door than 2 doors.... have you considered reducing the size of the front door 1 or 2 studs?

Check here for an example of a 2 stud reduction:

Best Regards!

 

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11 hours ago, vascolp said:

This is becoming really nice!

Usually 4 doors have a smaller front door than 2 doors.... have you considered reducing the size of the front door 1 or 2 studs?

Check here for an example of a 2 stud reduction:

Best Regards!

 

Right consideration, I had thought about it myself but ultimately I decided to keep the proportions of the real version.
In model 42110 actually the door is too short, it should be about 1 or 2 stud longer(14 or 15 total), so 13 stud should be correct in 4 door version.
Your pickup is great! :pir-classic::wink:

land-rover-defender-38778-suv-5-porte-laland-rover-defender-38778-suv-5-porte-la

Edited by barbanera

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3 hours ago, barbanera said:

....
In model 42110 actually the door is too short, it should be about 1 or 2 stud longer(14 or 15 total), so 13 stud should be correct in 4 door version.

Well observed, I didn't notice that.

3 hours ago, barbanera said:

Your pickup is great! :pir-classic:

Thanks ?

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I did some scale calculations on the Defender. The scale is somewhere between 1:10 and 1:11. I cacluated for scale 1:11, which case closest.

y4mLUaf9ZUHEEHjNt4-YheKnKEWops4PcfaO__Re

I couldn't find the length of the doors in the specifications, so this I measured in pictures. The other dimensions are retreived from the official specifications.

Hope this helps for conversions...

BTW, the pickup version is based on the 110, but does not carry the spare wheel on the back.

Edited by Some Belgian LEGO Fan

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On 11/25/2020 at 10:02 PM, Some Belgian LEGO Fan said:

I did some scale calculations on the Defender. The scale that came closest is 1:11.

y4mLUaf9ZUHEEHjNt4-YheKnKEWops4PcfaO__Re

I couldn't find the length of the doors in the specifications, so this I measured in pictures. The other dimensions are retreived from the official specifications.

Hope this helps for conversions...

BTW, the pickup version is based on the 110, but does not carry the spare wheel on the back. 

 

 

Thanks very helpful,
i measured the defender 110 doors on a photo scaled to real size (4758mm), the front and rear doors should be around 120 and 115cm,  13.5 and 13 stud

Immagine.png

Edited by barbanera

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On 12/2/2020 at 9:26 PM, twoofive said:

I did, build a 5 door 130 recently, trying to upload pics from my cellphone

Very nice work! But the 130 won't have the spare wheel on the back :)
Does someone know where the spare wheel is located on the 130? Is it underneath, like on the Range Rovers, or is it inside, at the side of the boot?

 

You made the fenders 1 stud wider. What did you change on the suspension?

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On 12/2/2020 at 9:26 PM, twoofive said:

I did, build a 5 door 130 recently, trying to upload pics from my cellphone

Great :pir-classic:, it looks cool.

Currently I'm finishing the chassis with v6 engine, (and i want to keep the bodywork removable). Initially I was oriented on the 130 me too , then I decided for a 110 version (2 stud less than yours).

Maybe I extend it again :pir_laugh2:

Edited by barbanera

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On 12/3/2020 at 10:30 PM, Some Belgian LEGO Fan said:

Very nice work! But the 130 won't have the spare wheel on the back :)
Does someone know where the spare wheel is located on the 130? Is it underneath, like on the Range Rovers, or is it inside, at the side of the boot?

 

You made the fenders 1 stud wider. What did you change on the suspension?

the fenders are indeed widened, on this pics the original wheels are on with spacers, after that i ordered other rims in black, so i cuold get rid of the spacers

On 12/4/2020 at 12:10 AM, barbanera said:

Great :pir-classic:, it looks cool.

Currently I'm finishing the chassis with v6 engine, (and i want to keep the bodywork removable). Initially I was oriented on the 130 me too , then I decided for a 110 version (2 stud less than yours).

Maybe I extend it again :pir_laugh2:

nice, only difference between 110 and 130 is rear structure, so that isnt that hard i suppose.

 

seeing the post of the doors on a 90 being to short i think i am gonna lengthen the doors to try it;-)

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47 minutes ago, Nimbleslick said:

That looks amazing, very nice work. Barbanera - how far from finishing are you with your version?

In progress, I haven't had much time recently .

Moreover I'm waiting for some missing parts for the v6 engine. I'll update soon.

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On 5/4/2020 at 9:40 PM, Some Belgian LEGO Fan said:

Like on most cars, a dreployable tow bar is available on the real life version of the Defender. I tried to replicate this feature for the lego version.

https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=140729

Video

 

Can i do this whilst still being able to use the rear axle?

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Hello, I just finished building my copy of the Lego Land Rover, and it makes a cracking noise when in reverse/ hi or low/ gear 3,4. I know a lot of people are having the same issue as I am. I have searched throughout the web for an answer, but couldn't find a clear one. Some of the answers didn't work for me too. I found this one answer on Eurobricks from Twoofive: "I solved the issue by changing the 8/24 gearing to the diffs into 16/16 , works a lot better now." I don't exactly understand this answer by Twoofive. Can someone please explain this answer to me? Also if possible, please show me pictures of what it would look like after applying the answer from Twoofive. If the answer from Twoofive works to fix the problem, all credit goes to Twoofive. Thank you!

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13 hours ago, pizza12 said:

Hello, I just finished building my copy of the Lego Land Rover, and it makes a cracking noise when in reverse/ hi or low/ gear 3,4. I know a lot of people are having the same issue as I am. I have searched throughout the web for an answer, but couldn't find a clear one. Some of the answers didn't work for me too. I found this one answer on Eurobricks from Twoofive: "I solved the issue by changing the 8/24 gearing to the diffs into 16/16 , works a lot better now." I don't exactly understand this answer by Twoofive. Can someone please explain this answer to me? Also if possible, please show me pictures of what it would look like after applying the answer from Twoofive. If the answer from Twoofive works to fix the problem, all credit goes to Twoofive. Thank you!

IIRC Twoofive got rid of the problem by completely removing the gearbox and making it a 2 speed one. The 8/24 to 16/16 also had some problems like high friction. Don't sweat too much on it. As some said, the drivetrain of 42110 is notoriously difficult to make it work right. After numerous tryouts I gave up and made my Defender's gearbox a 4 speed one 3 months ago. Works like a charm since then.

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