42110 - Land Rover Defender - MODs and Improvements

[Cappy21]

Can someone give me advise on how to upload multiple photos on here?

thanks

Edited February 19, 2020 by Cappy21

[agrof]

This just came across, I think it is worth to share - by alexandrerossier. Pretty rad stuff.

Edited January 31, 2020 by agrof

[Bartybum]

Oh my god that is insane 

[Rudivdk]

... just... what?... wow...

I love the use of that system pillar thing as the reinforcement on the engine bay. And then some other 500 details...

[BrickWild]

The new Volvo 6X6 Dumper (42114) now has these 'mudguard' pieces in yellow, making the ability to build 42110 in Yellow a possibility!

[Bartybum]

59 minutes ago, BrickWild said:

The new Volvo 6X6 Dumper (42114) now has these 'mudguard' pieces in yellow, making the ability to build 42110 in Yellow a possibility!

Oh dear

[Rudivdk]

5 hours ago, BrickWild said:

The new Volvo 6X6 Dumper (42114) now has these 'mudguard' pieces in yellow, making the ability to build 42110 in Yellow a possibility!

-pic-

You could even make the front edges above the headlights yellow by using 2L oo beam instead of o+ beam and 2x halfbush instead of 1L beam. Looks cool IMHO

And use the new yellow #21 and #22 panels on the rear sides (also in 42114)

Edited February 1, 2020 by Rudivdk

[Flecktyphus]

Any pictures of PF battery box location for light use? Kinda stumped as to where the best spot would be. Just putting in 3x PF lights.

[Vectormatic]

@agrof wicked! that thing looks insane

[M_longer]

On 2/1/2020 at 5:45 AM, BrickWild said:

now has these 'mudguard' pieces in yellow, making the ability to build 42110 in Yellow a possibility!

With black outline :)

[Valkyx]

Grohl is testing 1st version of pdf instructions of b model. Time to take a model apart.

[Flecktyphus]

Just replaced the front soft/normal springs with heavy ones. BIG improvement, although I wish it was a slight bit softer to ease transitions and climbs. It's still a very worthwhile upgrade, the front doesn't sag/sink, and playability goes up when the car doesn't get "squished" down when turning.

Put a jerry can on the roof, as well as a light bar, and a bull bar. Can't wait to get in the new tires and a bunch of other small details I've ordered.

[BrickWild]

On 2/3/2020 at 7:24 AM, Flecktyphus said:

Any pictures of PF battery box location for light use? Kinda stumped as to where the best spot would be. Just putting in 3x PF lights.

A 9v Battery Box will do just fine!
Just use the PF adapter cable!
You should check out my Stud.io renders. https://www.flickr.com/search/?user_id=49428593%40N08&sort=date-taken-desc&text=lego 42110&view_all=1

 

Edited February 5, 2020 by BrickWild

[Flecktyphus]

Thanks a lot @BrickWild!

I got the parts you recommended (for the tail lights, as well as a bunch of different hollow studs) for making the "lights" compatible with PF lights, so now I just need the power source ;-)

Did some different visual mods, I'll post pics when I get a chance to take photos outside when there's actual light. I also mounted the Unimog tires to it today. There are two mods necessary to make the 42110 compatible with them without binding up/grinding against the tire wells:

1. replace medium front suspensions so that each wheel has 2 x strong suspension arms
2. a small illegal operation on the 11946 and 11947 panel fairings used in front of the front wheels. By cutting a small part away and touching up with Dremel/sand paper, the tires won't be pushed/rubbed against them, letting the wheels turn smoothly even on maximum turning!

Edited February 5, 2020 by Flecktyphus

[jb70]

I have redesigned the front axle and integrated Ackermann steering. To do this I needed to reverse the steering rack from rear to front. As result I could even remove some gears and simplified the steering. It works pretty fine:

I plan to add this feature to Pimp up my Land Rover in the next weeks. 

[Pattspatt]

@jb70 Very cool - nice job!

[BrickWild]

17 hours ago, Flecktyphus said:

Thanks a lot @BrickWild!

I got the parts you recommended (for the tail lights, as well as a bunch of different hollow studs) for making the "lights" compatible with PF lights, so now I just need the power source ;-)

Did some different visual mods, I'll post pics when I get a chance to take photos outside when there's actual light. I also mounted the Unimog tires to it today. There are two mods necessary to make the 42110 compatible with them without binding up/grinding against the tire wells:

1. replace medium front suspensions so that each wheel has 2 x strong suspension arms
2. a small illegal operation on the 11946 and 11947 panel fairings used in front of the front wheels. By cutting a small part away and touching up with Dremel/sand paper, the tires won't be pushed/rubbed against them, letting the wheels turn smoothly even on maximum turning!

I might do the same thing with the headlights and tail lights.

[Flecktyphus]

Stupid question (from someone who's been out of the game for 10 years) - would replacing one shock absorber on each axle with a pneumatic cylinder allow easy switching between maximum ground clearance, and "weak" suspension? Or would you simply be stuck with either max clearance/minimum clearance?

As in -

Pump for increasing pressure, tank if necessary, then T-splits and hoses going to each pneumatic cylinder. The output connectors then connect again and go to a switch, where air can be either let out, or just flow through the hoses.

So to be clear (missed in my drawing) - the hoses split off after the tank, going into one cylinder each, then reconnect after their respective cylinders, to go through the switch.

Would it work or is there some obvious mistake here? :-)

Notice this is all manual, just for (potentially) being able to adjust ride height and stiffness of the suspension.

Edited February 8, 2020 by Flecktyphus

[pleegwat]

You would just have a single communicating network between the cylinder bottoms, the compressor, and the relief valve. The tops of the suspension cylinders would be left open, since you won't be using the compressor to pull the wheels in.

I suspect you'd run into the pressure limits of lego pneumatics rather than have this do anything useful, but I couldn't say for sure.

[Flecktyphus]

Right - that's more logical than how I thought it worked.. haven't played around with this since I picked my 8455 apart right before my dark age. Thanks for the input. I agree that it's probably pushing the limits, I'll see if I can locate any of the old 8455 parts to test the approx weight I can make it hold before things start to leak.

With the weight of the 42110 it's probably not very feasible without illegal mods..

[Nazgarot]

I would add a sprung cylinder (either modify with a "damper spring" or use rubber bands) as a pressure switch, connected to a pf switch controlling the pump.  I would probably drop the tank, and rather use a large cylinder for pressure switch and also let that be the reservoir. But that depends on what cylinder you are using for the suspension.

I used a similar, but double working system, as a proof of concept for a medium sized tipper truck with lifting rear axle. On this I used small cylinders to simulate air suspension and a medium cylinder for reservoir and pressure switch. That combination worked well for anything up to the size of the 42043 Arocs.

 

-ED-

[Flecktyphus]

My idea thus far was to pair one x189c01 with a 731c04 on each axle (so hard 6.5L spring suspension & the 5-7L pneu. cylinder). Right now I've got two 731c04 on all axles (replaced the front medium springs).

Basically this is what I imagined (with the cylinders being paired with spring suspensions):

(What's with the absolutely laughable 24kb max uploads?? At that point just disable them)

If necessary I could place a tank (old blue one I have laying around) inbetween the switch and the central T-branch. Placing it before the switch would lead to too quick impingement if I'm not mistaken (built up pressure rapidly fills the system)? Since I'm aiming for a slow and hopefully gradual increase in height, that wouldn't be desirable.

Is there any obvious flaw/mistake that somehow would make it not work?

And again, it's only intended for manual adjustment of the ride height/suspension stiffness, so I don't have a need to motorize/automate it with PF. Unless the switch you mention is necessary to hold the pressure needed for such operations?

Edited February 9, 2020 by Flecktyphus

[pleegwat]

Having a tank between the pump and the switch would allow raising the suspension more quickly on demand. As you mention, probably not too useful.

Having a tank between the switch and the working cylinders would increase the working volume of the suspension, making it weaker.

Hence probably the suggestion to use one (or more) large cylinders instead of an air tank: you can couple these with a manual control and compressing the control cylinders would reduce the working volume, hardening the suspension.

The ratio between minimum and maximum volume would also affect the force curve exerted by the working cylinders. The amount of force needed to compress the cylinder changes as the cylinder compresses, and the shape of that curve stays the same with increased pressure but changes if the volume changes. I'm not quite sure how noticeable that would be in practice though - I'm working off high school physics only.

[Flecktyphus]

Very good point, thank you. I'll look into ways of using a cyl as the reservoir. As you wrote it'd be a good idea to be able to quickly change the volume of the system, allowing quick changes between hard and soft (quicker than what you could do by pumping by hand anyway). Would be easier to figure out these things with a bunch of pneu components in front of me but seeing as they're pretty expensive on BL/BO I'll have to do some guesswork before jumping into it.

Let me know if this is much too off topic, I figured since I'd be doing this on my 42110, it's okay to be posting here.

[Vectormatic]

If you want to make it respond relatively slowly to input, you could also take the switched setup pictured above, and use the small compressor pump with a hand crank, that would save a lot of space over a large pump and airtank setup