MangaNOID

[WIP] Datsun 240Z… slight modular approach

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I like this so far, but I still think you have room for an actual gearbox like others have suggested. It might not be quite as compact, but luckily for you, you only have 4 speeds to contend with.

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yes It was a toss up between working gearbox and one that replicates the proper workings. by the way this still outputs to the rear diff and the engine so that's something.

I really liked @Pleasedontspammebro 240z c model gearbox and of course @Gray Gear on the previous page both come real close but neither quite fitted for what I wanted for this model. Shame, but happy too. This was a real hold up point for me cause I really, really hate doing gearboxes. They confuse me big time :blush:

great to hear you guys opinions for sure :thumbup:

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Thanks so much for the inspiration for a gearbox, never occurred to me to make a gearbox with realistic operation without a range of gears. Just finished an 7 speed + reverse but the moc its going into is a little small so might have to reduce that (your solution for reverse is sublime), one thing I did was to use a gimble for the shift leaver so I could use a rubber 1x2 to spring centre (authentic neutral shake). Haven't worked out a way of preventing engaging 2 gears at once yet, on the other hand working transmission brake. (interestingly with the 8 clutches the length of the assembly is half a stud off of what you would expect; due to the tolerances of 3 axles and 4 axle connecters in series)

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22 hours ago, MangaNOID said:

ummm...what do you think 

I think the fake gearbox is rather nice. Besides, its no dumbo ... it also has some clever construction. So my vote is :thumbup:

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On 10/27/2019 at 7:37 AM, Aerolight said:

one thing I did was to use a gimble for the shift leaver so I could use a rubber 1x2 to spring centre

I kinda tried similar to this after you said. It does feel kinda right.

On 10/27/2019 at 7:37 AM, Aerolight said:

your solution for reverse is sublime

Thanks! but not quite so. There are still some floors in its operation that I found after playing with it for a while, it can jump out of gear when put under load. no way this could be a motorised gearbox :sceptic: but thankfully its a manual model:grin:

 

On 10/26/2019 at 12:23 PM, sirslayer said:

if your MOC have a fake leather boot over the shifter.. 

4589b.png this is close to suit on the gear stick :classic:

 

On 10/27/2019 at 10:22 AM, iLego said:

So my vote is :thumbup:

great! good to hear thanks!

 

also just working on the steering

pretty close to 2.7 turns lock to lock but not spot on. It will do. The steering wheel is also not quite the right angle to the driver...always focusing on the negatives...:blush:

And if angled gears are OK for @Zerobricks then they are OK for me :thumbup: This was really the only way to lower the turn output and keep it all tight and tucked up under the dash out of view. works a treat just needs proper construction around it of course.

tan 20 gear is where the output to the rack is.

2881bbc1-0d0e-4435-8df2-ffd2e7eaf6a8.jpe 

 

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Just been going through this post and I have to say it’s looking really good so far.

I’ve always been a fan of the Datsun Z cars so it breaks the heart to see this sitting forlornly on my friends farm.

F8473-A7-A-EB96-4-E52-AC77-32-C14340-DD2

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ahh, sigh...lush old green English countryside.

10 hours ago, grum64 said:

it breaks the heart to see this sitting forlornly on my friends farm

but its only a 260Z not a 240z so its ok :laugh:

probably no bringing that back to life :sad:

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3 hours ago, MangaNOID said:

but its only a 260Z not a 240z so its ok :laugh:

I suppose you do not like this one

260z007.jpg

 

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46 minutes ago, I_Igor said:
4 hours ago, MangaNOID said:

but its only a 260Z not a 240z so its ok :laugh:

I suppose you do not like this one

ahh... it was only sarcastic! don't lynch me please, I like all Datsuns, I promise. :blush:

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2 hours ago, MangaNOID said:

 

ahh... it was only sarcastic! don't lynch me please, I like all Datsuns, I promise. :blush:

I want lynch anyone ever...Since you are honest I'm not particular fan of cars after 1950, but your development is very interesting; only thing that is difficult IMHO is steering operating since you transfer rotation into worm gear and not from worm gear. I had this issue long ago here

 

Kind regards

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On 10/29/2019 at 7:06 PM, I_Igor said:

only thing that is difficult IMHO is steering operating since you transfer rotation into worm gear and not from worm gear.

sorry to reply so late but if you look closer at the front steering you should see that the worm gear is just a steering 'rack' locked in place instead of the usual LEGO steering rack 7L

 

Also small update that took me many attempts was the rear suspension/subframe. I tried to replicate the Datsun as best I could and I think it looks and works OK. Offset suspension and triangular shape swing arms was difficult to replicate given that I wanted to be able to use the tumbler wheels for a street version of this car.

The DBG bits are mostly the strut towers and some of the boot (trunk) floor which is all part of the chassis rather than the subframe but easier to photo with the springs attached to that. 

6b816ce5-c091-4a43-9150-2fff4bb1cdb7.jpe

4dd14bc5-68d9-48cd-8eab-cc2e8f0fddf2.jpe 

46737818-dede-4121-bf5e-a15b5f018184.jpe

 

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Not much happening, but lots of trying. Body work is slow. Its difficult.

Rear suspension attached to the chassis on the real life test build successfully. 

There is flexibility in the chassis, mostly corner to corner twist, but no way can I get rid of that without resorting to a LEGO chassis instead of trying to copy the real Datsun one. I'll live with it. it might be better when the roof is boxed on but not sure how boxed on it will be. Anyway its not exactly bending under its own weight so not so bad.

Trying not to use too many panels but i did try the wheel arches from 42056 but A: they don't come in red and B: they don't fit on the rear wheels as they intrude where the door is as they are too big, but C: they looked good on the front. oh well.

8471ea84-2bd6-4cb0-bdb4-ac376529fb14.jpe 

240z_chassis_3.jpg 

240z_chassis_4.jpg 

 

 

 

 

 

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so where have i got after 6 months?

well not so far with lack of time, TC17, but I have spent considerable hours trying to get even this far. Body shaping is not my thing.

first up though I have had to reshape the steering arms and strut connection as these Tumbler tyres are difficult to work with. I aim to mostly use the old style flatter tyre from 8860 I think is similar in diameter (?) and wont cause so many headaches cause as I said its mostly the rally version. But I also want to be able to use these Tumblers as well cause they look fat for the JDM style.

what I had before was the steering link connections pointing down like below

eb3f1178-5950-49db-94e4-968f55eff9cb.jpe 

and trying to keep the connection near the wheel as close to the strut ball joint to fit into the tumbler tyres but this left a LOT of slop in the steering. when pushing the car the front wheels would   \    /    toe out massively so you could not push or steer.

So I changed to this setup below which made a massive difference. the only thing being now that I need 1 1/2 stud spacer to the wheel to fit the tumbler tyres as I had to pull the steering links forward from the strut ball joint by 1 stud. Like I said before no problem with the other wheels and tyres I'll run for the rally version though.

img_7679.jpg 

 

Anyway beside that I have a bit more rear section and some of the roof I have worked on.

the boot/trunk took ages but I have a very nice subtle curve in there to mimic the real one and is form locked with the black axles and the #3 connector.  Once again I'm not going with many panels for body work as I am not keen on that look so more flex axles and a few panels.

on the roof I have these panels that don't come in red (yet?) so may have to re think that.

its slow but happy how its going. I'll need a bricklink order of red flex axles now...they are expensive *huh*

240z_003.jpg 

240z_004.jpg 

see you in another 6 months...

 

 

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It looks really good and is instantly recognizable. The Tumbler tires do look good on this. As for the roof maybe create it withe the curved panels in black or white?

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^ Agree, looking good with the Tumblers and just in general. I'm currently dreaming of a flared 240z/280z so really interested in how this turns out :laugh:

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23 hours ago, MangaNOID said:

on the roof I have these panels that don't come in red

@Gray Gear recently showed his fantastic red NSX with these panels sourced from a different company. If you are willing to go this way (your MOC deserves it), you may want to ask him.

Anyway, take your time and go on with your 240Z please!

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On 10/28/2019 at 2:32 PM, MangaNOID said:

 

also just working on the steering

pretty close to 2.7 turns lock to lock but not spot on. It will do. The steering wheel is also not quite the right angle to the driver...always focusing on the negatives...:blush:

And if angled gears are OK for @Zerobricks then they are OK for me :thumbup: This was really the only way to lower the turn output and keep it all tight and tucked up under the dash out of view. works a treat just needs proper construction around it of course.

tan 20 gear is where the output to the rack is.

2881bbc1-0d0e-4435-8df2-ffd2e7eaf6a8.jpe 

 

I’ve had a similar issue of late but have a solution that might work well for you in that the angle of the wheel is completely adjustable and it fits within the parameters of what you’re building. I’ll upload a pic tonight after work.

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19 hours ago, Go-Kart said:

these panels sourced from a different company

 

On 6/2/2020 at 2:25 PM, Qukie said:

curved panels in black or white?

by the time I'm finished Lego may have released this panel in red :laugh: but otherwise if I need these panels (definitely trying different options) then I think I would prefer to use black with a big red sticker or paint them as I think that is a little more acceptable within the LEGO community. I am not keen on the other companies really.

 

On 6/2/2020 at 2:49 PM, Surffikoira said:

 currently dreaming of a flared 240z/280z so really interested in how this turns out 

The tumbler tyres stick out from where the fender lines are so I do plan on putting in some flare type of thingy on the JDM version, even if it is just another flex axle (I like gaps in my Technic :wub:)

 

12 hours ago, MinusAndy said:

...

that might be of some help

nice solution!

 I tried it on the LDD and I'm not sure it fits so good here. when the wheel has almost the right angle it is very close to the seat bottom, sitting further back toward the seat also and then covering up the 'dash' more than before from a driver perspective (pedantics eh?). It looks a bit overbearing compared to a proper 240z one and I haven't secured it to anything in this pic either yet.

its a compromise which ever way one goes 

240z_steering_column.png 

240z_steering_column_2.png 

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On 2/28/2023 at 6:55 AM, SAM_KTM_304 said:

hi do you have pdf instructions for this 240z

Not sure I’ll ever have instructions the way I’m slowly going.

back on to this though after 3 and a half years (coincidentally exactly the same time as my youngest is years old)

Dusting it off literally and reacquainting myself with where it’s at. Bit by bit getting all the red bits red and chassis black and other bits LBG then start to finish the design. Will be plenty of gaps in this as said before.

img_3895.jpeg

 

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Just seen this, which is really spooky from my side as I’m just (literally) dusting off my MX-5 project that’s been sitting dormant due to life and Eurobricks competition builds.

I’m at the stage of looking at what I’ve got and working out where to start (again) as I never got far.

Very interested in how you’ve done the suspension. Do you know how a Z compares in size to an MX5 as I’m doing 1:8 scale too?

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37 minutes ago, Seasider said:

Do you know how a Z compares in size to an MX5 as I’m doing 1:8 scale too?

Does this link work??

https://www.carsized.com/en/cars/compare/mazda-mx-5-2015-roadster-vs-datsun-240z-1970-3-door-coupe/?&units=metric
 

This is for a current mx-5 I couldn’t figure out how to get the NA (assuming that’s what you’re doing?) interestingly the two are very similar in size. I thought the Datsun was way bigger but is only 300mm or so in length longer. 
 

I don’t have any LEGO 1:8 cars so seeing this Datsun grow and siting on the table the 1:8 really have quite some size to them!
 

Also interestingly (perhaps) if you see back on page 2 of this thread I noted that getting the body work wrong produced something that looked like an MX-5 a bit 😅

51 minutes ago, Seasider said:

I’m just (literally) dusting off my MX-5 project that’s been sitting dormant due to life and Eurobricks competition builds.

 

😄  Rey spooky indeed! so much gets in the way of everything these days. We are lucky really. I hope you post something, I can’t remember if you had a thread started on that.

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This build wasn’t conducive to pleasant building after rebuilding what I had in correct colour scheme, so I decided to change so the chassis was a bit more modular and easy to assemble disassemble and make changes if need be.

The ‘gearbox’ now is somewhat a standalone unit and can slip easy in and out with a couple pins.

Same for rear subframe/suspension.

front engine bay is also separate by a few pins.

Engine of course will be similar but I need a small bricklink order to complete

img_4067.jpeg

I concentrated on mimicking the 240z chassis as best I can and I think it looks pretty good comparison with chassis rails, gearbox ‘tunnel’ engine bay etc. 

img_4070.jpeg
 

img_4069.jpeg

img_4072.jpeg

 

img_4073.jpeg

 

img_4068.jpeg

I think I care more about the chassis than the outside 😁

Small bricklink order when I can for some brown interior parts then try to get some body lines to finish.

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