Thirdwigg

[MOC] John Deere 6130R with implements

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Posted (edited)

I have watched in awe of some of the great tractors from that have been added to this forum in the last couple of months. So enjoy another one, even if it not at the same level of perfection. More implements are coming...

48621135587_8c38b51d03_b.jpg

The tractor features:

-Rear Wheel Drive
-HOG Steering
-I4 Engine (Green of course)
-Front PTO (on/off switch)
-Rear PTO (on/off switch)
-Front Three Point Hitch (HOG)
-Rear Three Point Hitch (HOG)
-Opening Hood

48620643138_a0f3653c33_c.jpg

And the rear with PTO and drawbar.

48621134357_d7d00c59a7_c.jpg

And the bottom for a little idea of how it all fits together.

48620991141_b2d428f36b_c.jpg

 

Much more at thirdwigg.com, and you can view the full album on Flickr.com

Edited by Thirdwigg
Three point hitch not drawbar

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Posted (edited)

Nice. I like the overall look, with some Technic and Model Team attributes. The black fender extensions are neat, even if the style clashes slightly with the smoothness of the main fenders. The lights are nice and the fuel tank cap makes me smile. :classic: The relatively simple mechanicals are suitable, methinks, but then I am somewhat Technic-illiterate after all.

And you're right - you can never have too many tractors, real or model! (One of my "daily drivers" is a 2014 6150M, with the 20speed PowerQuad trans and self-leveling front-end-loader. Different animal than the "R" machines altogether, but about the same size. :pir-wink: )

Now someone hurry up and build a model of my NH T8.390, so I can endlessly harass you for (free) instructions! :tongue:

To finish on a serious note, a couple of questions: is there any particular reason why the rear tires are mounted backward? And by "drawbar" I assume you are referring to the 3-point-hitch -- at least for the front end?

Edit: I just looked in the Flickr album, and I like that flip-plow model. It matches up well with the tractor. (In the real world, I view plows as pure evil. In these rolling hills we farm, it's no-till forever, baby! :grin: ) 

Keep it up. :thumbup:

Edited by Captain Dee

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A perfect combination technic and model team style. Clean design. Lego should go this way with new sets.

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Fantastic, I like the simplicity using no electonics. Great work any plans on making instructions? I have a kid that would love to build this.

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Very nice work.  I like the way that you were able to get the front lift controlled from the top of the cab. Very clean lines, with the yellow stripe being an important detail.

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Well done!

I am ok with the global philosophy of your project. It is a good idea to keep it manual, all benefit for the design.

And it is very well designed! I particulary like the front Hood and the headlight integration :thumbup:

I have just a point that could be upgraded according to me.

It is in link with the model scale.: The steering wheel is way too large for this tractor...

And, second, i Wonder if the cab size wouldn't be better with one (or two?) stud(s) more in height.

At least, wouldn't you place front mudgards?

Steph.

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10 hours ago, Captain Dee said:

To finish on a serious note, a couple of questions: is there any particular reason why the rear tires are mounted backward? And by "drawbar" I assume you are referring to the 3-point-hitch -- at least for the front end?

Glad you like it. My understanding is the tires are mounted correctly, with the chevrons driving water and mud to the center for better traction and flotation. This is opposite of a car, with the chevrons driving water out from under the tread. Also, yes, 3 point hitch is more correct. Fixed.

@Kio Liex I'll try to get instructions up soon. I'll post here.

@trekman Thanks, I had to get the yellow line on the hood.

@steph77 Thanks again, I am a fan of manual designs, so it was an easy choice for me. 

I'll change the steering wheel to the 3 stud design, and see if I like it better. This is another situation in which it would be great to have a 4 stud steering wheel.

The scale for this tractor is correct in terms of height and wheel base and length. As such, the cab is correct. However, your eyes are correct, but it it due to the hood and fenders being about one stud too high to fit the engine and the tires.

Finally, regarding the mudguards, my first couple of drafts used the Fischertechnic tires on the front which allowed for a fender, but changing to the balloon tires removed a mounting point, and I was not willing to move the tires out wider. I'll see if there is a solution, but there is little space between the hood and the tires.

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Sound great, we will be looking forward to the instructions. 

What scale have you build it to?

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Posted (edited)

It looks very nice, but how to put Fishertechnic tires at the front and take some photos?

@Kio Liex since rear tires in real Trac are 600/65R38 (1755 mm overall diameter), you can calculate scale (1:16.5) :wink:

Edited by I_Igor

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@I_Igor Thanks, I have also made a lot of tire calculations for John Deere tractors myself (I am also planing to build one or two). When I look into my calculations I have note that the 6110R-6130R series can also have 520/70 R38, making it scale 16.1. What you are referring to is the max tire size.
Therefore I would still like to know what scale that was aimed for on the hole tractor. We always have to do some compromises when building in LEGO, I aim to build within +/-0.5 scale of my desired scale. Looking at my Volvo L120H it has the following overall scale 1:17 but measuring the different places it isn't perfect. 

Height 3380 / 200mm = 16.9
Chassis width 2670 / 152mm = 17.6
Wheel width 2670 / 172mm = 15.5 
Wheel base 3200 / 184mm = 17.4
Bucket width 3000 / 183mm = 16.4
Wheel diameter 750/65 R25 = 1610 / 94.3 = 17.1

Sorry for all this scale talk I just really like this topic. :blush:

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Wow so compact while keeping a working and true design to an actual tractor. Great job

Really, the only thing I don't like about this, is that you used LBG dogbones in the front. I would probably have resorted to a different way of putting it together to keep the color scheme

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@I_Igor @Kio Liex yeah it is about 1:17.

@Carsten Svendsen I agree, but the color was a compromise I was willing to make as there are a lot of things going on at the front. It was the best way I found to allow a PTO, a couple of mLAs, and steering while being able to hold enough on the front 3 point hitch. We got a red one last year, a yellow one this year, maybe next year we will get a green one. But I won't hold my breath

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Beautiful.

You should make a counterweight for the front, it seems that the tractor needs some leverage when the plow is attached.

Might I also suggest putting a tile over the open holes on the sides of the roof to hide the blue, and maybe some inverted curved 2x2 slopes to hide the anti-studs on the mirrors? 

 

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Really beautiful! I like the way you shaped the bonnet, the cab and the wheel arches. 

My compliments :thumbup:

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On 8/26/2019 at 9:05 AM, Thirdwigg said:

Glad you like it. My understanding is the tires are mounted correctly, with the chevrons driving water and mud to the center for better traction and flotation. This is opposite of a car, with the chevrons driving water out from under the tread.

I'm not trying to start an argument :grin: but agricultural tires with chevron lugs are designed to be self-cleaning in soft or muddy conditions -- but only in one direction, with the chevron pattern pointing down going forward (opposite of what you have here) as the mud is forced out and away from the tire, allowing the lugs to penetrate to hard soil beneath. As shown, forward travel would force mud to the center, thereby causing the tire to ride up on it and making contact with solid ground difficult. Several of the big rear tires I've seen have arrows indicating they are supposed to be mounted opposite of how you have these.

I've personally operated about 20 different tractors, seen hundreds more, and literally thousands of listings for sale, and they all have the chevron pointing down going forward -- unless someone specifically mounted them "backward" for some reason. And I've never seen any ag tractor or other self-propelled machine (combine, forager, etc) on rubber tracks with an upward-pointing chevron going forward. But some towed implements on tires or tracks are factory-equipped with the chevron facing as you've shown.

Some people mount them "backward," ie chevron pointing up going forward, if they do lots of roading (explained to me as a way of reducing wear) and some combine harvesters mount them that way, too -- explained to me as "less traction to get stuck [forward] and more traction to get unstuck [reverse]." (Spin those tires slick full of mud in the "normal" configuration and reverse traction of a heavy combine is almost nonexistent.)

Then some folks mount one rear tire facing each way, for "equal traction" each direction for specialized tasks such as loader work. Theoretically. In reality it seems the tractor would just "fight itself" under challenging conditions.

On solid, dry, relatively flat dirt, the direction of the chevron makes little difference. Add hills, soil moisture, plant stubble, etc to the mix, and my experience with tires mounted opposite what you've shown is excellent traction going forward (the "working direction") and a remarkable drop in traction in reverse (but of course, everything we run has a powered front axle too, which largely eliminates the issue.) I've always wondered how a tractor equipped with rear duals facing opposite directions would handle. I'll be mounting my 520/85R46 Michelin duals in a few weeks to pull a tri-axle tanker, but the concave/convex wheel design will force me to mount them the traditional way.

Of course, a radial tractor tire mounted any direction will outdo a (mostly pointless) bias tire. :tongue:

Ok, I'll shut up now. :blush: Great MOC regardless. :thumbup:

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On 8/27/2019 at 3:45 PM, Metagross555 said:

Beautiful.

You should make a counterweight for the front, it seems that the tractor needs some leverage when the plow is attached.

Might I also suggest putting a tile over the open holes on the sides of the roof to hide the blue, and maybe some inverted curved 2x2 slopes to hide the anti-studs on the mirrors? 

 

Thanks. I'm on the counterweight. I should be able to get that done soon.

I tried covering up the blue on the sides of the roof, but the tractor looked bloated. So no go, but I might try the curved slopes on the mirrors. 

Glad you like it @mpj

Thanks for the high praise @jorgeopesi. I'm happy all of my MOCs bring you some enjoyment. I'll try to keep it going. 

@Captain Dee I'll trust you. I am a little out of my expertise, so I'll switch the tires for my upcoming additions. 

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OK, time for some improvements. First, you guys were right, it needed a little taller cab. So I added a stud, and I agree it seems to look better.

Second, I added some fenders. I used a Znap idea for one side, but it loses some turning radius. I copied @steph77 for the other side. Let me know what looks better.

Changed the tires for @Captain Dee.

Added a counterweight for @Metagross555. Don't like the black, so view this as a draft. Maybe DBG or Green.

@Kio Liex, sorry these ideas postponed my instruction work. I'll start this weekend.

Snap fender.

48653854177_ec2e824fff_b.jpg

@steph77 fender.

48653854202_40d5b3e32e_b.jpg

Now time for more implements. 

 

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As a massive tractor fan myself, i always love to see them on here - i've been slack on the lego front for a few months, but wanted to add my support and appreciation of a fine John Deere!! Great work. I'd love to build a JD, but i have no where near enough green.. so i suspect my next moc will be a Case IH. Or possibly a MF.

But thumbs up for more Ag related mocs!! :thumbup:

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Definitely the steph77 fender. Matches the rear fender.

I've been slacking off in posting here on the forums, but just wanted to say this is (again) a great MOC from you. The combination of front and rear tires looks better than I expected, and since I actually have both, I might give my own tractor a try! Keep up the great work!

 

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@Ludo Visser glad you like it, and I agree the fenders match the rear well. Yeah, I was surprised how well these two tires worked together. Look forward to seeing something from you soon.

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4 hours ago, Thirdwigg said:

@Ludo Visser glad you like it, and I agree the fenders match the rear well. Yeah, I was surprised how well these two tires worked together. Look forward to seeing something from you soon.

Rear and front tires diameters fit perfectly together for that kind of tracs with 5 steps differences between front and rear tires. If I may explain a little bit; at front are usually group 40 tires (1375mm tires) a d at rear group 45 tires (1755 mm). Other marques like CLAAS, Massey Ferguson, Case IH / New Holland, Fendt (without front independent suspension) have front tires 5 group smaller tires. Tracs with front independent suspension like Deere 8R series, Fendt Vario 9 and 10 series have front tires usually 4 steps smaller and tracs like JCB Fastrac 8 series and Deutz fahr 7 series have 3 steps between front and rear (front group 44 and rear 47, but there is possibility to use group 45 at the front and group 47 on Fastrac 8 series)

I'll add overviews of overall diameters later to help other Trac builders.

I hope that it is not bad to use your topic

Edit:

Group 38 tires have 1255 mm overall diameter

Group 39 tires have 1310 mm overall diameter

Group 40 tires have 1375 mm overall diameter

Group 41 tires have 1422 mm overall diameter

Group 42 tires have 1499 mm overall diameter

Group 43 tires have 1602 mm overall diameter

Group 44 tires have 1676 mm overall diameter

Group 45 tires have 1755 mm overall diameter

Group 46 tires have 1855 mm overall diameter

Group 47 tires have 1955 mm overall diameter

Group 48 tires have 2055 mm overall diameter

Group 49 tires have 2155 mm overall diameter

Group 50 tires have 2255 mm overall diameter

Edited by I_Igor
Added tractor tire groups

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I think the steph77 Fender. Tractor looks awsome. Hope soon to show my own tractor project after years of only reading the forum, now i AM more active. 

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13 hours ago, Ludo Visser said:

Definitely the steph77 fender. Matches the rear fender.

 

 

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