Lego 42098 Car Transporter Mods

[SNIPE]

On 9/13/2019 at 9:32 AM, JunkstyleGio said:

who needs a upper deck ramp if you can do this.

Well, there might already be a car in the way on the lower deck, so upper ramps is for convenience.

Edited September 15, 2019 by SNIPE

[JunkstyleGio]

The loading of cartrailers is a logistical art of its own.

[zoo]

I'm curious to know if someone's bought two of these sets and built a longer version car transporter from the pieces? 

[Ngoc Nguyen]

I put the rear wheels of the Hot Rod lower one stud, make it longer, and add the differential. To me it looks better this way. I don't like the shortened and lowered axle in the original design.

 

 

 

[johnnym]

Also motorized my mod of the blue car. Gearing is a little different compared to my motorized Palomino       - 36z => 12z => 12z instead of 28z => 20z => 12z - making this car noticeably faster:

This is still preliminary, as I have some problems with the steering: the tyres touch the parts were the front bumper is attached when turned to their left and right extreme positions respectively. The car is still fun to drive - although better used outside in BuWizz's ludicrous mode.

[Arioh]

I also build blue (erm... orange) car this set from my spare parts back at august when instructions were released. It came out rather similair to @johnnym`s one, althought with differences. I flattened rear axle on same level to the front, slightly adjusted steering system (it still use nearly same solution as the original set, but steering lock is around 42 degrees, and i still can think that i can squeeze few more from it). i kept powerdome from original model, but with different shape, and rear was redesigined, it reminds me crazy mix between SIlvia's S15 and Supra's ones. Both, front and rear bumpers are quickly and easily detachible. Currently going to redo it into motorised version with AA battery box (the only that i have).
Photos of old, manual version

Overall idea for that drift style vehicle was inspired by Silvia S14 Rocket Bunny Boss

LXF file with my edits. Small Technic wheelarchs replaced with custom solutuion.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4ak3j15m6terlz/42098 drifter.lxf?dl=0

Edited October 28, 2019 by Arioh
Added LXF file with model

[johnnym]

7 hours ago, Arioh said:

I also build blue (erm... orange) car this set from my spare parts back at august when instructions were released. It came out rather similair to @johnnym`s one, althought with differences. [...]
Photos of old, manual version

Wow! Love it! Cool how a few changes give the blue car from 42098 a totally different look. The rear end came out especially good in the shown perspective.

7 hours ago, Arioh said:

Overall idea for that drift style vehicle was inspired by Silvia S14 Rocket Bunny Boss

Nice example.

7 hours ago, Arioh said:

LXF file with my edits. Small Technic wheelarchs replaced with custom solutuion.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4ak3j15m6terlz/42098 drifter.lxf?dl=0

I already wanted to ask for that. Much obliged.  I think I'll give it a try.

[Arioh]

And here is it - my lazy RC mashup of Blue muscle car. (Warning - picture heavy post)

All RC done with regular lego parts: L-motor for drive, Servo for steering, IR V1 reciver for control, and AA battery box as power source.

RC chassis fits in same dimersions as manual one, and Set's outer shell fits it without alterations.

Obligatory belly shot

Due low ground clearance and servo wire - model is indoor only, better use on smooth surfaces. Photo also shows nice steering lock, which is around 40 degrees, thus making model very agile and nimble.

However, i didnt recommend to run it with Buwizz, especially with overdrive... Because of how cramped model is, its drivetrain could cope only with regular power. All thanks to 8-tooth gear used in it, which starts to skip and cracks under significant torque.

I used old 8-tooth gear to lower chances of it being click and crack against battery box power outltet. Still i dint found any ways to reinforce it in current setup. If you, guys, have your ideas about reinforcing or completly rebuilding chassis - please, let me know.

On bright side - battery box is isnt buried deep in the chassis

Just remove 5L liftrarms above it and split chassis at halves to get access to BB.

Both, original manual and my RC chassis side by side

And two shots of manual's chassis upgraded steering, which as i mentioned before - works smootly and has impressive for technic car steering lock of approx 42 degree

And final shot with both chassis' and outer panelling

Short, horrible video of model in action: 

And LXF file of RC chassis: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xjv476hq5gdojtq/42098 RC drifter.lxf?dl=0

 

Edited October 30, 2019 by Arioh

[johnnym]

On 10/30/2019 at 4:51 PM, Arioh said:

All RC done with regular lego parts: L-motor for drive, Servo for steering, IR V1 reciver for control, and AA battery box as power source.

RC chassis fits in same dimersions as manual one, and Set's outer shell fits it without alterations.

Awesome how you could densely pack everything in there and still keep the differential in addition. Maybe you'd also like to motorize my Palomino in a similar way?

Quote

However, i didnt recommend to run it with Buwizz, especially with overdrive... Because of how cramped model is, its drivetrain could cope only with regular power. All thanks to 8-tooth gear used in it, which starts to skip and cracks under significant torque.

But with BuWizz (or SBrick) you can start slow and increase speed "over time" - which could avoid that problem. But right, it's still better to support the gear axles from both sides.

Quote

I used old 8-tooth gear to lower chances of it being click and crack against battery box power outltet. Still i dint found any ways to reinforce it in current setup. If you, guys, have your ideas about reinforcing or completly rebuilding chassis - please, let me know.

If there's no room in front of the gear, would it be possible to make an additional support (2L or more deep) at the rear, so the end with the gear attached can't move too much?

Aha, now I recognize it, you're using a pin w/o friction and axle there. If possible I'd use an axle (with stop) instead - maybe 3L with stop?

Quote

Short, horrible video of model in action:

Nice driving!

****

With the LXF of the non-RC version at hand and after studying the details of your design, I developed some ideas for modifications in Studio. Here are renderings viewing the front and rear of my modification. Instead of an attached spoiler, I use sort of integrated spoiler - @JunkstyleGio: that part indeed looks cool on this car , great idea! I also changed the rear axle to allow for wider wheels. And I also changed the main color to red, though I'll try to build it in dark-azure, as my red fenders are still in use by my El Camino.

Studio

@Arioh: BTW the brick-built fenders used in the LXF look really good and are a drop-in replacement for the panels. Nice work. I think the best thing you did, was moving the rear axle up.

Edited December 12, 2019 by johnnym
Updated digital model

[Arioh]

I will install Studio today and will check your Palomino. Also, if you would build either of my versions IRL, please, share your comments on build and usability of them. Also, can you share file with your modifications?

UPD - can you convert your Palkomino to LXF model - its easier more comfortable to me to build in LDD then in stud.io

UPD. I managed to fix problems with 8-tooth gear in drivetrain - managed to add bracing structure, which now stopping gear when it trying to slide out. LXF file now have fix implemented.

Edited October 31, 2019 by Arioh
Fixed some problems in drivetrain.

[Thirdwigg]

My attempt at a MOD for this little car.

Features steering, opening doors, rear suspension, and some simple bodywork changes. Enjoy.

 

[johnnym]

On 10/31/2019 at 7:51 AM, Arioh said:

UPD - can you convert your Palkomino to LXF model - its easier more comfortable to me to build in LDD then in stud.io

@Arioh: Sorry, didn't saw that update until now. I'll see if that can be done from Studio.

4 hours ago, Thirdwigg said:

My attempt at a MOD for this little car.

Features steering, opening doors, rear suspension, and some simple bodywork changes. Enjoy.

@Thirdwigg: Cool mod! Suspension in such a small car is nice to have . But the opening doors really made me smile .

[sirslayer]

I've done many mods for the excellent Lego 42093 that are compatible to the Lego 42098 Blue car  and these fine examples should work with a little adjusting to the Leg 42098 car chassis.  Gives you guys and gals an idea on how much mods can be done on that small scale. First example , is a 4x4 mod to turn your car model into a 4x4 !!!  or a race car with rear suspension.  I could build the examples but I would rather wait till I get the real sets!!!   :)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/23813430@N07/47292915522/in/datetaken/

 

Lego Technic 42093 4x4 mod by Victor Mendoza Jr, on Flickr

https://www.flickr.com/photos/23813430@N07/40303622703/in/datetaken/

Lego Technic 42093 2 x Lego L motors by Victor Mendoza Jr, on Flickr

 

[Thirdwigg]

@johnnym yeah the doors were one of those time I found myself saying "come on LEGO, this is too easy not to include in the set."

[johnnym]

On 10/31/2019 at 7:51 AM, Arioh said:

I will install Studio today and will check your Palomino. Also, if you would build either of my versions IRL, please, share your comments on build and usability of them. Also, can you share file with your modifications?

@Arioh Looks like I also overlooked that last question. I just uploaded the digital version of my modification of your drift car mod as Studio file and linked it from my original post:

I also finally started to build your drift car from the LXF - in dark-azure. I have about 10 to 20 % or so - it just takes longer to build from a digital model alone - and am already missing some parts . Fortunately I just made an order on BrickLink that will bring in some of the missing parts. The quick-detach rear (and also front - but I haven't yet built that) is interesting - I would have fixed that with a friction pin instead of a stud, but I think kids will like that, because when crashing their cars into walls or other cars the front or rear might easily fall off, simulating the effect of a crash.

[Arioh]

5 hours ago, johnnym said:

@Arioh Looks like I also overlooked that last question. I just uploaded the digital version of my modification of your drift car mod as Studio file and linked it from my original post:

I also finally started to build your drift car from the LXF - in dark-azure. I have about 10 to 20 % or so - it just takes longer to build from a digital model alone - and am already missing some parts . Fortunately I just made an order on BrickLink that will bring in some of the missing parts. The quick-detach rear (and also front - but I haven't yet built that) is interesting - I would have fixed that with a friction pin instead of a stud, but I think kids will like that, because when crashing their cars into walls or other cars the front or rear might easily fall off, simulating the effect of a crash.

Thank you for a model, ill gave it a look. Sadly, it need to reconstruct chassis around rear wheels. Fat rear wheels's tires collides with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32009#T=A

And when you build my drift car - make sure that you redownload LXF file - to have latest wersion with all reinforcement fixes.

About quick-detach. It has 2 intention - to add playability as you noticed, and to easen process of bodywork disassembly, hich shortens time needed to swap panels between RC and non-RC chassis.

Waiting photos of your azure variant.

Edited December 12, 2019 by Arioh

[johnnym]

11 hours ago, Arioh said:

Thank you for a model, ill gave it a look. Sadly, it need to reconstruct chassis around rear wheels. Fat rear wheels's tires collides with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32009#T=A

Oh, I didn't anticipate that. Good that you detected it, I didn't attach the wheels yesterday.

I now created an alternative (ATM only on the right side of the model) but it uses a considerable amount of extra parts. What do you think about that solution? Here's the updated digital model. I'll also update the URL in the post with the picture.

11 hours ago, Arioh said:

And when you build my drift car - make sure that you redownload LXF file - to have latest wersion with all reinforcement fixes.

Ok, will do. Until now I used my mod as basis as both are not that different, but I don't remember if this one is based on your newest version.

11 hours ago, Arioh said:

About quick-detach. It has 2 intention - to add playability as you noticed, and to easen process of bodywork disassembly, hich shortens time needed to swap panels between RC and non-RC chassis.

Ah, now I fully understand. Cool idea.

11 hours ago, Arioh said:

Waiting photos of your azure variant.

Will take some time until I get all missing parts together.

[johnnym]

On 12/12/2019 at 4:52 PM, johnnym said:

Will take some time until I get all missing parts together.

Well, I couldn't wait and tried to create something with what I already had and still some tiles are missing and I used plates instead. As I didn't have those upper black panels at the front w/o stickers, I used two with stickers from 42095 - I was also thinking about the cars from The Fast and the Furious - if someone still remembers the first movie . That looked interesting and so it didn't took me long to start thinking about the remainder of the stickers as using two of the main colors of the 42095 would make their application easy. I also added some stripes in the other colors of the stickers with some half-beams and like the result very much despite the striong colors - hope you, too.

If I find the time, I'll also create a digital model of this version.

@Arioh: As you can see, I did not exactly replicate your drift-car (latest version) but made some changes here and there similar to what I posted earlier. The front bumper was too shaky for me, so I used friction pins instead of friction-less pins with stud to attach it. The rear bumper is also a little shaky, but I can live with that and you had your reasons. I also left aside the engine and HOG steering, as I plan to motorize it in a quick and dirty fashion. Overall building from a digital model alone is a little harder and I sometimes had to take things apart and rebuild them correctly, but it's doable and saves the creator from a lot of extra work. About stability: using friction pins and pin connectors instead of axles would fix the rear of the roof better than the axles and axle connectors. Below the lower part of the A pillars a connection between the panels and the chassis would stop movement there, when you put your thumbs at the bottom of the car and pull the ends with your remaining fingers. But then you'd also have to change the way the side mirrors are attached. And it could also be that it would look different with engine and steering build-in, so not sure if this really is an issue. Looks like I got confused at that point between my changes and your model: the way you did it in your model actually provides a connection there with a 3L pin.

Edited January 3, 2020 by johnnym
corrections

[Arioh]

Wow... it looks so awesome in bold dark azure. All those bright splashes of other colors looks awesome. Do you have Stud.IO of your modifications? Did you tested my version of steering system? If your model still have default mounting points for bodywork, you just can build my RC chassis to have good rc model. And shaky bumpers on half-pin with studs are fun in RC model - you need 2-3 good angled crashes to leave them on the ground, or get dragged half-detached behind the car :)

And what do you think overall about my edits to this model after you build it physically?

Edited December 29, 2019 by Arioh

[iLego]

12 hours ago, johnnym said:

like the result very much despite the striong colors - hope you, too. 

Yes, it looks fantastic ! The mix of colours and the stickers make it look a lot more exciting.

[johnnym]

On 12/29/2019 at 4:49 PM, Arioh said:

Wow... it looks so awesome in bold dark azure. All those bright splashes of other colors looks awesome.

 

On 12/30/2019 at 2:55 AM, iLego said:

Yes, it looks fantastic ! The mix of colours and the stickers make it look a lot more exciting.

Thanks guys, I appreciate that. I wouldn't have expected dark-azure to work so good as the main color, but with the 42095 stickers and the other colors from those stickers the result was really worth the try. I think the sides could use a little more decals, though, maybe from the bottom of the 42077 doors?

On 12/29/2019 at 4:49 PM, Arioh said:

Do you have Stud.IO of your modifications?

Not yet, but will try to find the time for making that.

On 12/29/2019 at 4:49 PM, Arioh said:

Did you tested my version of steering system?

Only by moving the front wheels manually: the steering angle is huge for both front wheels and they never touch the chassis or body, something that didn't work with the original car, even when removing the liftarm that limited the steering angle, the wheels then touched the parts where the front bumper is attached to. So great work for the front axle modification, @Arioh.

On 12/29/2019 at 4:49 PM, Arioh said:

If your model still have default mounting points for bodywork, you just can build my RC chassis to have good rc model.

Because of my modification of the rear axle to allow wider wheels, I think there's only just enough room to place a PF L motor in the rear center and drive the rear axle w/o diff, like I did for this one:

On 12/29/2019 at 4:49 PM, Arioh said:

And shaky bumpers on half-pin with studs are fun in RC model - you need 2-3 good angled crashes to leave them on the ground, or get dragged half-detached behind the car :)

Yeah, I know what you mean. Destruction Derby!!!

On 12/29/2019 at 4:49 PM, Arioh said:

And what do you think overall about my edits to this model after you build it physically?

I like them very much. IMHO the best thing still is the rear axle movement. The steering solution is great. Only the roof is a little weaker at the rear compared to the original model due to using axles/axle connectors instead of pin w/axle and pin connectors.

[johnnym]

On 1/1/2020 at 10:04 PM, johnnym said:

On 12/29/2019 at 4:49 PM, Arioh said:

Do you have Stud.IO of your modifications?

Not yet, but will try to find the time for making that.

Ok, I updated the digital model of my v2 mod of @Arioh's 42098 drifter mod to the state of the above presented car (incl. modified rear axle on both sides now) plus (1) some minor changes to the side skirts, (2) alternative mirrors as I don't seem to have enough black bionicle teeth (which also allow to use the spoiler panel type on the sides) and (3) black side panels at the rear - this because I had these panels already "stickered" from my first 42095 and wanted to see how some additional stickers on the sides of the car would look. Maybe a little too much black at the rear w/o stickers, but it looks good IMO with stickers applied.

I used the following stickers from 42095 at the following places (you need two sticker sheets when you want to also apply stickers to the left and right sides of the rear bumper!)

Front part of the car:

• #13 - on upper left black panel
• #6 - on upper left dark-azure panel
• #16 - on upper right black panel
• #4 - on upper right dark-azure panel
• #7 - on the power dome (slightly offset to the right!)

Roof section of the car:

• #1 - on the left black panel
• #5 - on the middle black panel
• #3 - on the right black panel

Right side (when viewed from the front) of the car:

• #11 - on the lower dark-azure (door) panel
• #6 (from second sticker sheet!) - on the black panel at the rear

Left side (when viewed from the front) of the car:

• #15 - on upper dark-azure (door) panel
• #8 - on lower dark-azure (door) panel
• #4 (from second sticker sheet!) - on the black panel at the rear

Rear of the car (when viewed from the rear):

• second #7 - on the lower black panel (near the left edge)
• #14  on the right dark-azure L beam

You can also check https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/172515-lego-42098-car-transporter-mods/&do=findComment&comment=3180924Here are two renderings of the digital model:

 

Studio (original LDD model by @Arioh, see https://www.dropbox.com/s/c4ak3j15m6terlz/42098 drifter.lxf?dl=0)

 

Edited January 3, 2020 by johnnym
corrected URL

[etienne_diecast]

On 8/10/2019 at 1:18 PM, S Kettle said:

Hi,

I love this set and have modified it so all the functions are now remote controlled. It uses the following parts:

• 2 SBricks and 1 battery box. 1 SBrick is in the cab of the lorry and the second SBrick is mounted on the trailer.
• 1 XL motor to provide the drive
• 1 Servo motor for steering
• 1 Large motor for moving the upper level on the lorry
• 1 Medium motor for the front ramps on the trailer
• 1 Large motor for the rear ramps on the trailer
• 1 Large motor for moving the upper level on the trailer

I have also added an extra function of a winch behind the cab of the lorry using a medium motor. This allows cars to be pulled onto the lower level.

You can see the functions in action on this video: 

 

Hi, great thread and job! I just purchased the following parts to make the 42098 truck drive and steer solely. I rather the other functions being manual for my preference.

x1 XL Motor for drive (8882)

x1 Servo motor for steering (88004)

x1 Battery Box (88000)

x1 Remote/controller (8885)

x1 Receiver (8884)

Am I missing any other parts?

Will all these parts fit inside the cabin?

Do you have closer photos?

I will paypal you funds if you have instructions somewhere! I would greatly appreciate a response/clarification! After a 20 year hiatus, I'm back at my favorite hobby as a kid haha

[etienne_diecast]

On 1/22/2020 at 12:27 PM, etienne_diecast said:

Hi, great thread and job! I just purchased the following parts to make the 42098 truck drive and steer solely. I rather the other functions being manual for my preference.

x1 XL Motor for drive (8882)

x1 Servo motor for steering (88004)

x1 Battery Box (88000)

x1 Remote/controller (8885)

x1 Receiver (8884)

Am I missing any other parts?

Will all these parts fit inside the cabin?

Do you have closer photos?

I will paypal you funds if you have instructions somewhere! I would greatly appreciate a response/clarification! After a 20 year hiatus, I'm back at my favorite hobby as a kid haha

Was self explanatory, figured it out by messing around with it. Added a differential for better traction. 

[Shuzbut]

Sorry to post on an old thread. I'm just getting into modifying lego technic. This is my first attempt. 

I changed from truck and pig trailer to a prime mover and semi-trailer because that's what is used for car transport where I'm from. I made it triaxle to fill the gap but it probably should just be a tandem axle group on the trailer.

I dropped both decks by one stud (cars still fit). The ramps all still work. 

My son is into the original transformers cartoons and he thought the prime mover looked a bit like Optimus Prime, so for fun we made it look a bit more like Optimus Prime. 

I wanted to try building a bridge so I made it big enough for this model. I should have used a different colour to contrast but I mainly had red liftarms. 

 

 

Edited June 3, 2021 by Shuzbut