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22 hours ago, Ondra said:

Now Im having two proposals for same price.

Buy one Sian or buy two defenders, one to be stock and one to be stadium truck by Grohl.

All my technic cars all 1:10 scale and Sian is 1:8. 

 

Both sets have pros and cons, so there needs to be few decisions made.

There are tons of great alternate builds for the Defender, whereas I haven't seen much for the Sian. Defender is also less expensive so I'd go for it.

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Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, howitzer said:

There are tons of great alternate builds for the Defender, whereas I haven't seen much for the Sian. Defender is also less expensive so I'd go for it.

Well I actually decided to go after Sian. I read a lot about Defender transmission and that gets me off.

Also Sian will be my first 1:8, its  not 8880 or super street sensational that I always dreamt of but its something.

 

Also they hooked me on with packaging and with zero stickers. That packaging reminds me in some ways packaging of 90s . 

 

Thanks everyone for replies :) .

Edited by Ondra

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I did some research, I love colour scheme of this defender and functions, but these videos with cracking transmission are driving me nuts.

But I stumble upon this alternate MOC https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-75267/poljvd/jeep-wrangler-42110-alternate/#info .

Same functions, but with robust drivetrain thanks to no usage of CV joints. I also get feel of better interior for sitting technic figures and bodywork.

 

Is there anybody who build this outstanding MOC ? Im reading discussion and people are very positive about that drivetrain.

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Posted (edited)

I did: it is very nice looking and cool to play with, clearly a must-have for anyone with a 42110 and who likes building alternate models. The instructions are great, the model is very respectful of the original car, and its gearbox with 2x4 speeds + a manual shift for RWD and 4WD is a clever touch. Its only downside is that when you play with it, you will end up having some falling parts, especially with the axle linking the wheels and the differentials, which can become a bit frustrating. But do not let this prevent your from building it, especially if you like Jeeps, it is really cool! Also, this MOC has not too many parts, so it will leave you with about 1000 spare parts of many kinds (including gears), and that you can use for something else if you want.

As for your fear of the Defender's gearbox issues, allow me to reiterate my advice: do not build the original model, but the pimped up version by jb70. The gearbox is completely redesigned in this MOD, with no universal joints and no crackling sounds and with a better piston movement difference between gearbox speeds. And another killer feature is the one-piece body, which can be removed in a few seconds whenever you want to observe the inner machinery. For less than 200 quite common parts, you will get an ultimately playable Defender, way better than the original one. The only caveat I have to give is about the instructions: they are faultproof, but much more dense than the original, sometimes with parts you cannot even see on the illustration, due to of inferred symmetry or because you have to guess where they go depending on the other ones you can see. Only dive into this MOD only if you are already advanced in building Technic sets, because this one is really like a "hard mode". Many Technic lovers will appreciate not to be considered as a dumb beginner, though!

Edited by Celeri

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Ondra said:

I did some research, I love colour scheme of this defender and functions, but these videos with cracking transmission are driving me nuts.

But I stumble upon this alternate MOC https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-75267/poljvd/jeep-wrangler-42110-alternate/#info .

Same functions, but with robust drivetrain thanks to no usage of CV joints. I also get feel of better interior for sitting technic figures and bodywork.

 

Is there anybody who build this outstanding MOC ? Im reading discussion and people are very positive about that drivetrain.

I built it. The gearbox the drivetrain are praiseworthy. The functional steering wheel is probably the best I have seen so far. He also fixed the front seats' headrests falling-off in the original Defender.  But that's that. Could not keep it more than a week. The gearbox started to becoming more and more noisier. The linkage of the gearbox to engine was made unnecessarilly complex. Its suspension system was wrong. The rear end should definitely have live axle, not independent one as told by some of the users in the comments section of MOC. Its sturdiness was also weak in the rear, specially in between front and rear seats.
I personally think if you are to MOC this one out better go for the most popular ones there on RB. The more the MOC is accurate and functionally pleasing the more that MOC gets love. The Stadium Truck the Helicoptre The Willy's Jeep the Jeep Bruiser Conversion  (the best one IMHO) the Forklift are among the most popular ones.

Edited by thekoRngear

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20 minutes ago, thekoRngear said:

I built it. The gearbox the drivetrain are praiseworthy. The functional steering wheel is probably the best I have seen so far. He also fixed the front seats' headrests falling-off in the original Defender.  But that's that. Could not keep it more than a week. The gearbox started to becoming more and more noisier. The linkage of the gearbox to engine was made unnecessarilly complex. Its suspension system was wrong. The rear end should definitely have live axle, not independent one as told by some of the users in the comments section of MOC. Its sturdiness was also weak in the rear, specially in between front and rear seats.
I personally think if you are to MOC this one out better go for the most popular ones there on RB. The more the MOC is accurate and functionally pleasing the more that MOC gets love. The Stadium Truck the Helicoptre The Willy's Jeep (the best one IMHO) the Jeep Bruiser Conversion the Forklift are among the most popular ones.

You are really party crasher :D . Thanks for info, its really helpful for me.

It seems that this type of gearbox with 4WD really push limits of lego bricks.

Well maybe I end with main model, it seems it just needs once a while small maintenance, like real Land Rover ...

 

55 minutes ago, Celeri said:

I did: it is very nice looking and cool to play with, clearly a must-have for anyone with a 42110 and who likes building alternate models. The instructions are great, the model is very respectful of the original car, and its gearbox with 2x4 speeds + a manual shift for RWD and 4WD is a clever touch. Its only downside is that when you play with it, you will end up having some falling parts, especially with the axle linking the wheels and the differentials, which can become a bit frustrating. But do not let this prevent your from building it, especially if you like Jeeps, it is really cool! Also, this MOC has not too many parts, so it will leave you with about 1000 spare parts of many kinds (including gears), and that you can use for something else if you want.

As for your fear of the Defender's gearbox issues, allow me to reiterate my advice: do not build the original model, but the pimped up version by jb70. The gearbox is completely redesigned in this MOD, with no universal joints and no crackling sounds and with a better piston movement difference between gearbox speeds. And another killer feature is the one-piece body, which can be removed in a few seconds whenever you want to observe the inner machinery. For less than 200 quite common parts, you will get an ultimately playable Defender, way better than the original one. The only caveat I have to give is about the instructions: they are faultproof, but much more dense than the original, sometimes with parts you cannot even see on the illustration, due to of inferred symmetry or because you have to guess where they go depending on the other ones you can see. Only dive into this MOD only if you are already advanced in building Technic sets, because this one is really like a "hard mode". Many Technic lovers will appreciate not to be considered as a dumb beginner, though!

I also thanks to you ;) .

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16 hours ago, Celeri said:

a manual shift for RWD and 4WD

Does that Jeep have RWD/4WD switch? To me it seems from the instructions that it has a regular drivetrain with a central differential.

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On 4/17/2022 at 8:06 AM, gyenesvi said:

Does that Jeep have RWD/4WD switch? To me it seems from the instructions that it has a regular drivetrain with a central differential.

Oops... Sorry for the big mistake, I really thought that he was mentioning your Jeep @gyenesvi 😅

@Ondra, do not take into consideration what I was telling for the MOC, since it was for another one... But since you were interested in a Jeep alternate for #42110, then you definitely should consider building the Willy's Jeep MOC! 👍

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On 10/5/2019 at 1:06 PM, rachelyip said:

I 'm having a similar problem at step 271. the black gear doesnt have enough room (in terms of height) to seat on top of the grey gear. By any chance you had similar problem when you were building? 

I'm also having a problem with this - I think the cog I'm using maybe too big (but I can't find a smaller one). Did you manage to find a solution please?

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8 minutes ago, Neet said:

I'm also having a problem with this - I think the cog I'm using maybe too big (but I can't find a smaller one). Did you manage to find a solution please?

You should use a dark bluish gray gear with 8 teeth, not a 12 tooth black one.

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Posted (edited)

Just ordered another Defender (one is never enough specifically for the 42110). This one will be kept as the official set as the other one has been experimented a lot and made its way into the form of Jeep Bruiser MOC by Gyenesvi.

Howevr, I will make some changes to the drivetrain. Initially I intended to not include the sequential gearbox and include a 2-speed gearbox (16t/20t and 20t/16t) in the console area. However, a concept just came to my mind. What if I keep the main gearbox as a 4-speed sequential gearbox (no neutral reverse no Hi/Lo)?

I want to make the output [the yellow axle coming out of the 12t black bevel) of the gearbox go directly to the engine output. And the input [the red axle] will be connected through coupling of 16t gears with the centre differential. I will also use 16t/16t gear pair instead of 24t/8t for the central driveshaft. The 4-speed gearbox will remain mostly the same.

A question might arise as to why not just go with the JB70's pimped up version! Well, from my small experience although the pimped up gearbox/drivetrain system won't skip/crack but after several weeks they start to get unpleasingly full of friction. You just won't feel good when you drive the Jeep in higher gears specially with Lo mode enabled (driving/reverse). I honestly think the way the chassis is built around this marvel of (overcomplex too) mechanical engineering is not sufficient enough to transfer power smoothly from and to and also to provide backup against overall friction the drivetrain will create- be it in the original drivetrain or the pimped up one. Sacrificing the Hi/Lo mode (the front distributive gearbox as a whole), the u-joints, connecting the output straight to the engine- all these things might give this monstrous 4-speed gearbox some justice to work smoothly for Long-term.

Experts opinions needed. Will it be worthy enough? Again it is not from any desperation. Just a thought for experimentation. 

Edited by thekoRngear

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You're right, one is not enough for the 42110. My original purchase ignited my creative side so recently I purchased a second and religiously applied all of the stickers and it is 100% original as Lego intended.

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Posted (edited)

Yes!!!!

One of the most anticipated Technic videos is now out!!!

Those who never faced the cracking issue don't come up by saying that before watching the video entirely.

Sigh, the new gears still cannot fix it as I've suspected. Howevr, I can suggest Balazs to test the new gears using the JB70's pimped up version. As I've said in my last post in this thread, the Pimped up version will probably never cause cracking noise but it can be made quieter/smoother if the new gears are used.

Edited by thekoRngear

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1 hour ago, thekoRngear said:

One of the most anticipated Technic videos is now out!!!

Thanks, this is indeed something I have been curious about! A little bit sad though that the new gears did not improve much, I hoped that they would. I like the way @kbalage explains when the problem appears even if it's assembled correctly. I myself didn't have the issue, but it may only be because I did not play too much with it, especially not in the faster gears, as when I feel the friction, I never really push lego models too far.

I wonder how things would be with the Pimped Up version, and also with the Bruiser, as the gearbox in there is also inspired by the Pimped Up version. @thekoRngear, how is the Bruiser's gearbox behaving now after some time?

Interesting that you mention that the framing around the gearbox could have an effect on this. When I was building the Land Rover, I did have the feeling that it's lacking solid structure in the middle, because of the gearbox. Then as I was designing my own alternates, I realized that with existing lego pieces, it's actually not easy to frame such a gearbox well (it is in some sense more tricky than the ones in supercars, where 11x7 frames can be used, because here the main drive axles in the gearbox are not running in the center of the car but 1 stud left and right). Some short flip-flop beams could help with building such structures..

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Posted (edited)

Hello Viktor! My Jeep Bruiser is about to hit its 5 months anniversary cometh this June 8th :wink: There were some steering related issues which were ironed out with your immense help and insight in between January and February. Ever since then I realized the Jeep Bruiser is something I cannot live without. The 42110's outer body shell is also something I cannot live without. Hence, I decided and went on to buy the 2nd Defender. Congrats! 

Now, if I am to point out rigidity/sturdiness support for a monstrous gearbox system (means the 4 speed gearbox, the reverse gearbox system with the centre differential, the distribution gearbox in the mid console, and ultimately bunch of gears in the front to connect with the gearbox) I must say Your one is most refined, sturdier, cleverer and best available solution with the given parts available. Now, lets say someone has not made any errors in the process of building the 42110 set, the chassis structure itself has some really challenging techniques that is proven quite hostile for the gearbox. Building the gearbox is a challenge, but in reality the chassis is also a challenge for the gearbox to run smoothly. For example, take a look at the module at step #84

400x306.png

That module is NOT just strong enough to pass the power/transmission from and through. I remember whenever I would drive the set in high gears that #32013 connector would get loose. Interestingly Racingbrick in his earlier videos thought of it otherwise. He thought the connector was loose and hence friction/tension was rising. In reality it was the complete opposite scenario. Each time I would fix the connector it just could not sit properly on top of the axle after a short run in 3rd or 4th gears. Also, the way the output goes from the u-joint through the 20t and 16t gears and finally the red 16t clutch gear is an absolute risky step/process.

Then comes the Pimped Up version. This time the situation is different. The PU version replaces the 16t/16t gear pair with 12t/20t. IMHO, it is much needed for reducing the friction. There are some improvements from the very back of the gearbox to the point where the Engine gets engaged with the output. No cracking is there. But is it enough? Yes, there is no cracks but after several days gone, when the vehicle moves specially in Lo (and in highest gear) it would not run smoothly. You will just not feel good. It is like you are forcing the Jeep to move around. JB70's solution I guess best used in the Sian's Pimped Up version. Nico71 refined this 8 speed monster a bit and used on his Ford F-150 MOC which I had for around 8 months. Boy, that gearbox would not even crack, nor would it make that eventual unpleasant friction in its entire period *oh2*

The Jeep Bruiser, due its chassis design and your much careful thought is completely free of any cracks. There is no parts/modules get loosened. However, the gears would face struggles. The left rear 8t/24t gear pair would face forces and the 20t gear installed at #45 would tend to get slightly out of the place. I think in general the 8t/24t gear pair is notorious. A 12t/20t double bevel gear pair do a quieter job. Also, the rear live axle, in general, does not want to be nice with such heavy gearbox system (same happens to the 3rd gear of Stadium Truck MOC) specially when driven backward. Finally, either in Drive or Reverse, the Lo mode makes the gearbox insanely full of friction in 3rd/4th. They don't crack but won't allow the Jeep to move naturally. I think all these exhibits Lego's limitations, no designer's faults or such. Another observation I have made is, for heavy gearbox, if the vehicle is steered left or right, the gearbox and the whole drivetrain feels more forced than if it is driven straight forward/backward. It is applicable for the 1/8 scale Supercars too.

So, after a much careful thought I went for the 2 speed gearbox that you utilized in the RC Version and made peace with it. Couple a months gone. This 2-speed gearbox is smooth and a bit moar badass than the super quiet 42139's 2-speed gearbox. The Jeep bruiser has those sexy doors, much well designed front hood, super stable winch system, probably best suspension system for the 42110 (and overall a pure class), cool central shaft with live axles on both end and a centre diff with a wise 7x11 frame housing, a perfectly working tailgate with cool brick-based solution to secure its position. So, why should I break so much sweat on that dense 4 speed monster. That 2-speed gearbox is enough to play with it. BTW, the whole steering system as a result of gaining space is now simplified and works fluently, the 16t gears trio is no longer needed!! Damn, if the electronics were not this much expensive I would buy them and make it into a RC one. In this context, I should also tell that the Defender has its flaws here and there in the outer body shell (some on nitpicking levels). Some stuffs start to becoming more visible after a few weeks (even if it stays still). 

I think Grohl has both the capacity and desire to make complex structures instead of using those 11x7 frames and 5x11x1 panels. Just imagine how creative and complex can a thing be in the space/size of those panels and frames! That also resulted in such interesting (and frustrating) situations for the 42110 model.

Edited by thekoRngear

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So, after all is said and done; should I buy the Defender and expect to be able to build it without cracking noises like @kbalage says or should I ignore it? I just don't know.

I buy a big Technic set about once every few years. I'm not someone to mod things, once it's build it ends up on the shelf and I occassionally take it in my hands to play with it. I own all the big trucks they've released the past 10 years and they all work to this day. Is the Defender up to the task or will it frustrate me endlessly?

Does anyone know of any mod that does work? I'm unfamiliar with rebrickable so forgive me if this question has been answered somewhere!

Thanks in advance.

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21 minutes ago, RNRS001 said:

and expect to be able to build it without cracking noises like

Great chance that you're going to experience cracking gears.

But you should buy it, great building experience and a good looking set for a fair price. 

This is the MOD of @jb70 that includes a lot of improvements, you just need 166 additional parts to the original set 42110-1

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-31299/jb70/42110-pimp-up-my-land-rover/#details

 

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7 minutes ago, GerritvdG said:

Great chance that you're going to experience cracking gears.

But you should buy it, great building experience and a good looking set for a fair price. 

This is the MOD of @jb70 that includes a lot of improvements, you just need 166 additional parts to the original set 42110-1

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-31299/jb70/42110-pimp-up-my-land-rover/#details

 

Thanks, but for me, the payoff after a build is a set that does both work and look good. Especially if it's a Technic set. If the final result isn't what it's supposed to be I feel I've done all the "work" for nothing. It's why I enjoyed the build of all the trucks. Long nights of putting things together and then being able to show it off without getting all frustrated because it sounds like I've made a mistake!

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