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It may retire soon but it's popularity (at least from UK toy websites) still seems pretty good so I wouldn't be that surprised if it stays an extra year.

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Hi.  I'm brand new to this forum.  I'm currently building the Land Rover Defender and have a couple of questions.  Is this the right place to post them?  Any help would be really appreciated.  Thanks!  Rob.

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37 minutes ago, RobGremley said:

Hi.  I'm brand new to this forum.  I'm currently building the Land Rover Defender and have a couple of questions.  Is this the right place to post them?  Any help would be really appreciated.  Thanks!  Rob.

Depends on what you want to know.  :pir-tongue:

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1 hour ago, RobGremley said:

Hi.  I'm brand new to this forum.  I'm currently building the Land Rover Defender and have a couple of questions.  Is this the right place to post them?  Any help would be really appreciated.  Thanks!  Rob.

Probably either this thread or the Generic Building Help one would be reasonable.

Welcome to Eurobricks!

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30 minutes ago, onzenuub said:

Depends on what you want to know.  :pir-tongue:

Thanks Onzenuub.  I've just completed the steering assembly and the steering wheel is locked.  The steering column leads to a fairly complex gear train at the front of the Defender.  That gear train is also locked.  I'm fearful that I may have locked it somehow by inserting one of the 1X2 Technic Beams (that have a pin hole and an axle hole) incorrectly.  Perhaps the only remedy is to start backtracking (and perhaps disassembling) but before I tackle that I thought I would ask the experts.  Thanks for any advice you can lend.  This build is my first and it's been a blast, but I'm loathe to go any further until I fix this problem.  Thanks.

8 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Probably either this thread or the Generic Building Help one would be reasonable.

Welcome to Eurobricks!

Thank you 2GodBDGlory!  

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2 hours ago, onzenuub said:

Depends on what you want to know.  :pir-tongue:

Onzenuub, thanks for your offer for help.  Turns out my daughter found the problem in about 2 minutes,  A misaligned gear in the front end was binding on one of the frame pieces.  Problem solved.  Thanks again for the offer of help.

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13 hours ago, RobGremley said:

Onzenuub, thanks for your offer for help.  Turns out my daughter found the problem in about 2 minutes,  A misaligned gear in the front end was binding on one of the frame pieces.  Problem solved.  Thanks again for the offer of help.

:thumbup:

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I've finished my two too. Whereby finished is always a thing, because you always change or add something here and there. :head_back:

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Hello,

 

I'm finishing this set, and I'm looking for lights for it, I want to use it as a display set.

I'm also looking for acrylic case for it, but all I found is above 50€, and I think it's too much for an acrylic box...

Any ideias?

 

Thanks!

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Hello folks, glad discovered this Forum! I love LEGO bricks and the Land Rover Defender has been my first Technic! What a piece of art! I customized as described:

- Black Top

- Black engine hood

- Double side doors platform

- Camel Trophy plate

- LED lights 

- Customized front

- Environment plate

- Double fuel tank

 

defweb.jpg.0e858baf32b80710e74d9d5597a42b92.jpg

unfortunately I can't upload other pictures.

 

 

Edited by jefniro
updated

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Hey

I assembled my Land Rover too. I runs smoothly without any improvements so far. Only weird error is that gear ratio of reverse gear is close to fourth gear rather than first gear - but I think I saw fixing guide for this here on EB.

I am novice for such supercar from LEGO Technic and here are my newbie questions:

1. Suspension Springs: why in front suspension both hard  and soft springs are used (2x soft 2x hard)? While in rear suspension 4x hard springs are used?

2. Longitudinal differential: while I get the idea of differential mechanism for purpose of driving a curves which enables both wheels to rotate on different speeds but I don't understand idea of differential which connects front axle (with differential) and rear axle (with differential). Is that a standard feature of 4wd drive?

Kind regards

 

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8 minutes ago, sp1984 said:

Hey

I assembled my Land Rover too. I runs smoothly without any improvements so far. Only weird error is that gear ratio of reverse gear is close to fourth gear rather than first gear - but I think I saw fixing guide for this here on EB.

I am novice for such supercar from LEGO Technic and here are my newbie questions:

1. Suspension Springs: why in front suspension both hard  and soft springs are used (2x soft 2x hard)? While in rear suspension 4x hard springs are used?

2. Longitudinal differential: while I get the idea of differential mechanism for purpose of driving a curves which enables both wheels to rotate on different speeds but I don't understand idea of differential which connects front axle (with differential) and rear axle (with differential). Is that a standard feature of 4wd drive?

Kind regards

 

1. The car is heavier on the rear axle, so harder springs are needed for the suspension to be compressed equally.

2. Yes, the middle differential is a standard feature in 4WD cars. Unless the car is steered on both axles equally and all the driveline components are perfectly symmetrical, there will be differences in rolling distance also between front and rear axle, similar to left and right side so middle differential is needed to counteract this.

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18 minutes ago, howitzer said:

1. The car is heavier on the rear axle, so harder springs are needed for the suspension to be compressed equally.

2. Yes, the middle differential is a standard feature in 4WD cars. Unless the car is steered on both axles equally and all the driveline components are perfectly symmetrical, there will be differences in rolling distance also between front and rear axle, similar to left and right side so middle differential is needed to counteract this.

Thanks for reply.

Regarding 1: yes  I guess that rear axle is heavier but why they just don't use hard springs on front axle too? What' is the purpose for mixing soft and hard spring in that case? :)

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19 minutes ago, sp1984 said:

Thanks for reply.

Regarding 1: yes  I guess that rear axle is heavier but why they just don't use hard springs on front axle too? What' is the purpose for mixing soft and hard spring in that case? :)

I guess to give more bouncy feeling. TBH, the front of my Defender used to sag a li-tt-le bit after a few weeks or so. I did not bother making them harder by adding half bushes inside each of the soft shock absorbers. I have seen people use hard springs on the front instead of those soft ones and also 3 on each side for the rear axle.

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17 hours ago, sp1984 said:

Thanks for reply.

Regarding 1: yes  I guess that rear axle is heavier but why they just don't use hard springs on front axle too? What' is the purpose for mixing soft and hard spring in that case? :)

I don't know how much the springs compress due to the weight of the model (I don't have it myself), but for realistic suspension they should compress about halfway of the travel. This of course means that the heavier end of the car must have harder springs than the lighter end.

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Can somebody help me in decision? Im having another urge to buy this set, I had it already in cart but I read something about it and I put it back just not having another headaches.

If I build this set as in instructions, do I get at least working model as intended? I dont want to modify it just to barely work.

Thank you for reply :) .

 

 

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6 hours ago, Ondra said:

Can somebody help me in decision? Im having another urge to buy this set, I had it already in cart but I read something about it and I put it back just not having another headaches.

If I build this set as in instructions, do I get at least working model as intended? I dont want to modify it just to barely work.

Thank you for reply :) .

 

 

I’d say go for it. :) I built it as in instructions, and the only issue was some cracking in the highest gear, the other 7 of 8 was working totally fine. Also, it looks brilliant in real life, and has tons of great MOCs for it.

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9 hours ago, tomsbuilds said:

I’d say go for it. :) I built it as in instructions, and the only issue was some cracking in the highest gear, the other 7 of 8 was working totally fine. Also, it looks brilliant in real life, and has tons of great MOCs for it.

I just found about B models of this defender and must say they are great.

Now Im really tenpted to buy 2 sets...

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, Ondra said:

Can somebody help me in decision? Im having another urge to buy this set, I had it already in cart but I read something about it and I put it back just not having another headaches.

If I build this set as in instructions, do I get at least working model as intended? I dont want to modify it just to barely work.

Thank you for reply :) .

The most tricky part of this set is its overly complex gearbox: unless you built it with extreme care to prevent friction as much as possible, you will have some non-working speeds. There are also some specific caveats to be aware of, such as with the universal joints, and you can check out RacingBrick's video on this, it helps a lot. Also be careful with the differentials orientation: this error is both very common and frustrating, because you have to dismantle everything to correct it.

Now, if you want an unltimately playable 42100, you can check out jb70's Pimp Up MOD which gathers many good enhancements proposed here on EB since this set's launch: all it needs is 168 very common parts — and being ready to follow very dense instructions. Personally, I have built it a few days ago: it works really well. And you also get a very nice feature, which is an easily removable body: I love it!

Edited by Celeri

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20 minutes ago, Celeri said:

The most tricky part of this set is its overly complex gearbox: unless you built it with extreme care to prevent friction as much as possible, you will have some non-working speeds. There are also some specific caveats to be aware of, such as with the universal joints, and you can check out RacingBrick's video on this, it helps a lot. Also be careful with the differentials orientation: this error is both very common and frustrating, because you have to dismantle everything to correct it.

Now, if you want an unltimately playable 42100, you can check out jb70's Pimp Up MOD which gathers many good enhancements proposed here on EB since this set's launch: all it needs is 168 very common parts — and being ready to follow very dense instructions. Personally, I have built it a few days ago: it works really well. And you also get a very nice feature, which is an easily removable body: I love it!

Thank you, for info :) 

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2 hours ago, Ondra said:

I just found about B models of this defender and must say they are great.

Now Im really tenpted to buy 2 sets...

One is never enough for the Land Rover 42110 set. There are couple of building traps when you are going thru the building process:

  1. you might end up having the rear suspension lower than the front ones meaning you messed something up while building that part
  2. you might end up mistaking the position of the perpendicular axle-pin connector at step #65 causing the entire drivetrain to stall after it is built
  3. you might end up misplacing the front and rear differential's position
  4. you might not have aligned the u-joints properly

All these issues are covered in Racingbrick's excellent ultimate repair guide video.

Done? Okay, after you build it you may or may not find the gearbox is cracking at 3rd and 4th speed on Driving Hi/Lo and eventually cracking on Reverse Lo and ultimately cracking all over the speeds. That is unfortunately the phenomena (or issue) with the 42110 set. This is the only real problem of this set which some builders were lucky enough to not encounter when they first built it. But it is pure luck and majority faces the issue despite being highly attentive and meticulous. The reason is simply described by Celeri. The drivetrain can be a very fun one (and addictive) to build but, it is overly complicated and so is the gearbox. The 20t double bevel tan gears don't behave properly with the normal gears. They are always prone to friction and for this particular drivetrain's complexity it becomes a friction haven.

But that should not be a factor at all when considering buying this beauty. There are at least half a dozen quality MOCs out there. I settled with the Jeep Bruiser Conversion and it is damn good.

Also, you can simply remove the front and rear gearboxes and install a 2 speed gearbox in the middle. You can even make it RC. My point is to enjoy the set that over complicated gearbox should not be a factor. More importantly let it not be a factor towards you. Buy it, build it. Modify it. You can keep the gearbox intact, play with it in neutral mode (as you've said you want to work it barely). Or you can replace it as I've said. You can make literally tons of quality mods and additions to the details and also functions of the set. I think building the set and then modifying and adding stuffs are what make this one so popular and loveable. Plus, MOCs are there. I know people who ended up buying at least half a dozen of the set.

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52 minutes ago, thekoRngear said:

One is never enough for the Land Rover 42110 set. There are couple of building traps when you are going thru the building process:

  1. you might end up having the rear suspension lower than the front ones meaning you messed something up while building that part
  2. you might end up mistaking the position of the perpendicular axle-pin connector at step #65 causing the entire drivetrain to stall after it is built
  3. you might end up misplacing the front and rear differential's position
  4. you might not have aligned the u-joints properly

All these issues are covered in Racingbrick's excellent ultimate repair guide video.

Done? Okay, after you build it you may or may not find the gearbox is cracking at 3rd and 4th speed on Driving Hi/Lo and eventually cracking on Reverse Lo and ultimately cracking all over the speeds. That is unfortunately the phenomena (or issue) with the 42110 set. This is the only real problem of this set which some builders were lucky enough to not encounter when they first built it. But it is pure luck and majority faces the issue despite being highly attentive and meticulous. The reason is simply described by Celeri. The drivetrain can be a very fun one (and addictive) to build but, it is overly complicated and so is the gearbox. The 20t double bevel tan gears don't behave properly with the normal gears. They are always prone to friction and for this particular drivetrain's complexity it becomes a friction haven.

But that should not be a factor at all when considering buying this beauty. There are at least half a dozen quality MOCs out there. I settled with the Jeep Bruiser Conversion and it is damn good.

Also, you can simply remove the front and rear gearboxes and install a 2 speed gearbox in the middle. You can even make it RC. My point is to enjoy the set that over complicated gearbox should not be a factor. More importantly let it not be a factor towards you. Buy it, build it. Modify it. You can keep the gearbox intact, play with it in neutral mode (as you've said you want to work it barely). Or you can replace it as I've said. You can make literally tons of quality mods and additions to the details and also functions of the set. I think building the set and then modifying and adding stuffs are what make this one so popular and loveable. Plus, MOCs are there. I know people who ended up buying at least half a dozen of the set.

Now Im having two proposals for same price.

Buy one Sian or buy two defenders, one to be stock and one to be stadium truck by Grohl.

All my technic cars all 1:10 scale and Sian is 1:8. 

 

Both sets have pros and cons, so there needs to be few decisions made.

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