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I'm a bit late to the party also, having just found time to build my 42110. And, I also got stuck on step 271 - its not a black gear here, you need the dark-stone-grey T8 gear, fits perfectly

 

This: 6012451

BTW, just starting bag 3 and I discovered I accidently used tan rather than 'Land Rover Green' 2x1 beam w/cross in the engine crank assembly, so now my seats look a bit, ahem, used.

Edited by JGW3000

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Just now, JGW3000 said:

I'm a bit late to the party also, having just found time to build my 42110. And, I also got stuck on step 271 - its not a black gear here, you need the dark-stone-grey T8 gear, fits perfectly

 

This: 6012451

BTW, just starting bag 3 and I discovered I accidently used tan rather than 'Land Rover Green' 2x1 beam w/cross in the engine crank assembly, so now my seats look a bit, ahem, used.

Holy mother of god - you are right!!!    They seriously need to have clearer images or color differentiation.  I have gone blue bananas over this for weeks!!    God bless you my friend.  Onward from tomorrow and good luck with the rest of your build.  

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Guys, one more Q please.  Is it conceivable that the sets have missed some parts.  I faced at least two occasions where I am convinced a part was not in the bag.  First was the wheel required for the Hi-Lo gear.  I simply improvised and put another design part from my general parts bin.  The other are the blue connectors (one side longer one).  I was a pair short in Part 4 of the build.  There was 1 surplus blue one from a previous part of the Defender that I had saved up but the final missing one I had to take out from my Orange Corvette unfortunately (which is last few steps incomplete because of another missing wheel like part).  I know everyone swears by the accuracy of ALL Lego parts being in place but I have twice had reason to doubt this.  Anyone else had a similar experience?

On a related note, I was thinking the next time I go to a large Lego store (in London /Singapore maybe), I will stock up some typical Technic parts as general surplus to dig into.  Anyone know if they sell such loose parts at all?  

Thank you. 

PS:  My Defender build is finally complete.  The only issue is it makes a horrid crackling sound while moving back and forth and I guess that comes down to perhaps not lining up the gear axles perfectly as suggested in some videos.  I wish the instruction manual would emphasize this better at the appropriate step.    

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9 hours ago, A K said:

Guys, one more Q please.  Is it conceivable that the sets have missed some parts.  I faced at least two occasions where I am convinced a part was not in the bag.  First was the wheel required for the Hi-Lo gear.  I simply improvised and put another design part from my general parts bin.  The other are the blue connectors (one side longer one).  I was a pair short in Part 4 of the build.  There was 1 surplus blue one from a previous part of the Defender that I had saved up but the final missing one I had to take out from my Orange Corvette unfortunately (which is last few steps incomplete because of another missing wheel like part).  I know everyone swears by the accuracy of ALL Lego parts being in place but I have twice had reason to doubt this.  Anyone else had a similar experience?

On a related note, I was thinking the next time I go to a large Lego store (in London /Singapore maybe), I will stock up some typical Technic parts as general surplus to dig into.  Anyone know if they sell such loose parts at all?  

Thank you. 

PS:  My Defender build is finally complete.  The only issue is it makes a horrid crackling sound while moving back and forth and I guess that comes down to perhaps not lining up the gear axles perfectly as suggested in some videos.  I wish the instruction manual would emphasize this better at the appropriate step.    

First make sure you really are missing the parts in question, there's a parts list in the instruction book and you can also use Bricklink or other such site for reference. Sometimes parts really are missing from the official sets although it isn't too common. If that's the case, you can contact Lego customer service at their website and they will mail you the missing parts.

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Having just finished the build, I found all parts present and accounted for. I was careful to avoid the pitfalls others have reported, and do not have the horrible cracking sounds others have reported. The only way to fix this is to rebuild.

You will find that Lego stores do not have spare/loose Technic parts. The best way to get more technic is to - buy a set, gets parts from Bricklink, or get parts from Lego website Bricks and Pieces.

 

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@JGW3000 Just wait a couple months. That drivetrain will start singing because of all the slack, dirt and dust buildup from sitting on a shelf for so long

Edited by Bartybum

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6 hours ago, Bartybum said:

@JGW3000 Just wait a couple months. That drivetrain will start singing because of all the slack, dirt and dust buildup from sitting on a shelf for so long

exactly. When I built my 42110 for the 4th (and the last) time ? I checked and saw at D/Hi 2nd gear it ran smoothly, the piston moved almost immediately. Since I was never able to make it able to run smoothly beyond 3rd gear (D/Hi/Lo) so I kept it as a display. However, I observed at the end of the 3rd week the gearbox cracked even in the first gear of D/Hi. In my previous builds I have observed the same phenomena. After the end of 2nd week the 1st/2nd gears would even crack. But I thought maybe it had something to do with my mistake or such. Since this is my first Lego technic set after prolly 18/20 years I did not know it was actually a phenomena until another 42110 set owner came and reported this in Eurobricks. I had had simple Technic sets (8225 etc.) when I was a child and had fun playing with them days after days ?

I wonder Chiron and Porsche do the same??

Edited by thekoRngear

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11 minutes ago, thekoRngear said:

exactly. When I built my 42110 for the 4th (that's the current) time ? I checked and saw at D/Hi 2nd gear it ran smoothly, the piston moved almost immediately. Since I was never able to make it able to run smoothly beyond 3rd gear (D/Hi/Lo) so I kept it as a display. However, I observed at the end of the 3rd week the gearbox cracked even in the first gear of D/Hi. In my previous builds I have observed the same phenomena. After the end of 2nd week the 1st/2nd gears would even crack. But I thought maybe it had something to do with my mistake or such. Since this is my first Lego technic set after prolly 18/20 years I did not know it was actually a phenomena until another 42110 set owner came and reported this in Eurobricks. I had had simple Technic sets (8225 etc.) when I was a child and had fun playing with them days after days ?

I wonder does Chiron and Porsche do the same??

My 42110 also started cracking out of nowhere. It was working perfectly earlier.

I have taken it apart and build Stadium Truck.

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16 minutes ago, thekoRngear said:

I wonder does Chiron and Porsche do the same??

I don't have either of them, but I can definitely tell you that they do. The same thing happened with my 42009 outrigger gearbox.

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On 5/12/2020 at 4:16 AM, Valkyx said:

My 42110 also started cracking out of nowhere. It was working perfectly earlier.

I might store mine in a pneumatically sealed positive pressure enclosure to prevent dust, mites, etc. from getting to it; or, build the stadium truck, and then part it out for MOCs

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On 5/11/2020 at 6:28 PM, JGW3000 said:

Having just finished the build, I found all parts present and accounted for. I was careful to avoid the pitfalls others have reported, and do not have the horrible cracking sounds others have reported. The only way to fix this is to rebuild. 

You will find that Lego stores do not have spare/loose Technic parts. The best way to get more technic is to - buy a set, gets parts from Bricklink, or get parts from Lego website Bricks and Pieces.

 

Just finished the build but I had to turn the differentials for good result (crown wheels NOT on drivers side). Great build!

(BTW are those door styles pythagorean?)

Edited by TandT

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Is it possible for anyone to make the gearbox of the official 42110 model a less friction less tension less complex less gears and cogs 2-speed one? with Only the parts provided with? Has anybody already done it?

Edited by thekoRngear

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Having just built this set, there are a few things I noticed:

  • The steering is extremely jerky and resistant, even though there is play between all of the gears. After some fiddling, it turns out the gears were not the problem but rather the roof was pushing the axle out of alignment. As far as I can see there is no way to fix this, so I may rebuild it.
  • Even after ensuring that gears rotate smoothly and there is play between all of the gears, there is a high rolling resistance in the lowest 1 or 2 gears. I have rebuilt the chassis already, and it is still quite resistant so I may just leave it for a while (I have noticed that newer LEGO gears have more friction than used ones).
  • The suspension in the front is extremely soft, to the point that it has very little travel and can barely hold up the front of the model. I have double checked the instructions and all connections are correct, so I suppose that is just what it is. Perhaps 2 red springs would have been better in the front.

Has anyone else noticed these problems (especially the steering and suspension issues)?

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The steering should definitely not be jerky/resistant. That sounds like a build error. The hole through the roof is in-system so should be lined up.

The gears is a known issue - I highly recommend rebuilding with @jb70 Pimp my Landrover - all gears then work very smoothly (with the exception of a switch to reverse while in high gear - switch down first).

Haven't had any problems with the front suspension at all - it's not like the Chiron where there were clear design issues - in fact, this I think is one of the better sprung Lego sets - it slightly sinks into it as it should, but still has an OK range of motion.

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4 hours ago, Magical Duck said:

Having just built this set, there are a few things I noticed:

  • The steering is extremely jerky and resistant, even though there is play between all of the gears. After some fiddling, it turns out the gears were not the problem but rather the roof was pushing the axle out of alignment. As far as I can see there is no way to fix this, so I may rebuild it.
  • Even after ensuring that gears rotate smoothly and there is play between all of the gears, there is a high rolling resistance in the lowest 1 or 2 gears. I have rebuilt the chassis already, and it is still quite resistant so I may just leave it for a while (I have noticed that newer LEGO gears have more friction than used ones).
  • The suspension in the front is extremely soft, to the point that it has very little travel and can barely hold up the front of the model. I have double checked the instructions and all connections are correct, so I suppose that is just what it is. Perhaps 2 red springs would have been better in the front.

Has anyone else noticed these problems (especially the steering and suspension issues)?

The steering is your own problem buddy. No known issues with steering.

The drivetrain/gearbox is a flawed one. Lots of people have problem with it. The most pathetic thing is- even if you somehow manage to build it with all the gears shifting smooth and fine, after a range of 2 weeks to a month it will start clicking/cracking (confirmed by other EB members along with me).

Yes, the suspension in my Landy's front is saggy, but not to a point what Bugatti faced. It's minor for me. But then again, seeing the slightly sagged front suspension won't make me feel too happy about it lol. I heard people attached two red springs (left and right side, 1 each) and altho' it improved the situation there is a tradeoff which I cannot remember now.

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18 hours ago, thekoRngear said:

Is it possible for anyone to make the gearbox of the official 42110 model a less friction less tension less complex less gears and cogs 2-speed one? with Only the parts provided with? Has anybody already done it?

Yes, you just have to remove all 4 universal joints that connect the front with the back and replace them with two gears. Then you will have neutral, reverse and two speeds.

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4 hours ago, thekoRngear said:

But then again, seeing the slightly sagged front suspension won't make me feel too happy about it lol.

The saggy part is actually there for a reason - Grohl wanted to match the slightly negative angle of attack seen in the real car.

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4 hours ago, Gumalca said:

Yes, you just have to remove all 4 universal joints that connect the front with the back and replace them with two gears. Then you will have neutral, reverse and two speeds.

 In that case no Drive hi/lo? I mean I will get 2 speed just for Reverse hi/lo?

 

thanks Barty for the info

2 hours ago, Bartybum said:

The saggy part is actually there for a reason - Grohl wanted to match the slightly negative angle of attack seen in the real car.

Edited by thekoRngear

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Hi guys, just finished building my Land Rover and I have few problems with drivetrain. When I was pushing my model, the engine pistons didn't want to move, and when I lift my model, the rear wheels started spinning bacwkards. I saw on youtube the video of how to fix the problem. I have realigned the u-joints with an axles, it made it little bit better, but still, it takes a while or some distance of pushing before the pistons start to engage. Do you think it is worth to disassemble the whole model and build it all over again, with all the advices from YT video, or is it the normal think for that model due to number of gears etc.

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I had this set but never built until now, im thinking if this set is for my parts donor only! Because of so many downfall how come become Lego let slip this negativity that so an acceptable that's become not worth your money ? 

but HE(666) is still proud of this one 

How... 

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31 minutes ago, Jaromir said:

Hi guys, just finished building my Land Rover and I have few problems with drivetrain. When I was pushing my model, the engine pistons didn't want to move, and when I lift my model, the rear wheels started spinning bacwkards. I saw on youtube the video of how to fix the problem. I have realigned the u-joints with an axles, it made it little bit better, but still, it takes a while or some distance of pushing before the pistons start to engage. Do you think it is worth to disassemble the whole model and build it all over again, with all the advices from YT video, or is it the normal think for that model due to number of gears etc.

The set's drivetrain has a lot of backlash because of all the U-joints and long axles. Build jb70's version: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-31299/jb70/42110-pimp-up-my-land-rover/#comments

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1 hour ago, Jaromir said:

Thanks @Bartybum,

However, to fix the issue that way I will have to acquire over a 100 additional parts :/

Can't help you there in that case, better start buying :P

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2 hours ago, Dylan M said:

I had this set but never built until now, im thinking if this set is for my parts donor only! Because of so many downfall how come become Lego let slip this negativity that so an acceptable that's become not worth your money ? 

but HE(666) is still proud of this one 

How... 

My guess is it could be something with the new bevel gears. I have the Landover gears lying next to the Corvette gears, and they look different, they have a different grip on axles, and most important they interact differently. While building with the new gears I've come across configurations that don't run smoothly that never used to be a problem before. There is a thread about these issues here too. Maybe the model was designed with the old gears and worked fine then?

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1 hour ago, Gumalca said:

My guess is it could be something with the new bevel gears. I have the Landover gears lying next to the Corvette gears, and they look different, they have a different grip on axles, and most important they interact differently. While building with the new gears I've come across configurations that don't run smoothly that never used to be a problem before. There is a thread about these issues here too. Maybe the model was designed with the old gears and worked fine then?

If you are talking about 20-tan bevel gears then yes, it is discussed somewhere in the Eurobricks forum. Cannot remember where the post is but he showed a photo of the bevel gears of his Land Rover and an older Technic set's ones. Turned out the newer (LRD) has less tapered (more thick) bevels than the ones found in that set. He replaced them with those (older ones) and experienced better results. In some other posts I saw some people were saying the bevel gears of some people's LRD were defective. Lego replaced them. My conclusion is Lego used newer Bevel gears which are thicker and hence do not yield smooth experience for the 42110.

However, each of these factors are not solely responsible for the whole drivetrain to "fail". Incorrect alignment of u-joints, the u-joints themselves, the Red clutch gears being inefficient in higher gears (causing more friction) and also these culprit bevel gears- all them came into play

Edited by thekoRngear

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