Recommended Posts

19 hours ago, efferman said:

a huge Gearbox with wheels

That's what we need in Technic! :sweet:

18 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

how Milan solved this puzzle.

What do you mean - hi is a designer?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
24 minutes ago, Aleh said:

What do you mean - hi is a designer?

Yeah. He and Samuel Tacchi worked on this set.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

Yeah. He and Samuel Tacchi worked on this set.

Sam Tacchi seems to be doing a lot more than he did last year... at least, going from what we've been told.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Am I in the right place?  Everyone seems to be positive about a set ... this can't be EuroBricks ... surely?!! :sceptic:

Ever since hearing about this set, its been on my must have list.  Now its out there and the details are available, it's double pinned on the list with bright highlights!! :wub:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Boulderer said:

surely?!! :sceptic:

It's thank to the stunning set itself)

2 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

Yeah. He and Samuel Tacchi worked on this set.

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow. this is impressive.

Ok, now let's get to this gearbox controls. One question I have is why do you turn the dial left to upshift and right to downshift? In every vehicle including Land Rovers, the paddle to upshift is on the right and the downshift is on the left. Even on autosticks that move left to right for shifting, left is downshift and right is upshift. And why does Lego always put the R-N-D backwards compared to the real vehicles? These are just small gripes over what appears to be an amazing complex model, but why not at least try and keep these simple things realistic?

Edited by Meatman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Boulderer said:

Am I in the right place?  Everyone seems to be positive about a set ... this can't be EuroBricks ... surely?!! 

:roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao::roflmao:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Boulderer said:

Am I in the right place?  Everyone seems to be positive about a set ... this can't be EuroBricks ... surely?!! :sceptic:

Ever since hearing about this set, its been on my must have list.  Now its out there and the details are available, it's double pinned on the list with bright highlights!! :wub:

It's not my cup of tea personally, but it looks well-designed and intricate, so... can't complain! :thumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, Meatman said:

And why does Lego always put the R-N-D backwards compared to the real vehicles?

Probably because it seems illogical to shift forward for driving backward...one could wonder why real cars have it the other way around?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, rener said:

Probably because it seems illogical to shift forward for driving backward...one could wonder why real cars have it the other way around?

In a real car, it feels a lot more natural to shift up (1->2) by pulling than to push. Vice-versa for slowing down and downshifting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Boulderer said:

Am I in the right place?  Everyone seems to be positive about a set ... this can't be EuroBricks ... surely?!! :sceptic:

If you insist:

- I dont care about off road vehicles, and the new defender is even crap at that, its a fashion statement lifestyle SUV which will only be used on school runs

- The colour might be correct, but mark my words, lego wont ever use it again, leaving MOCers/MODers in a dead end street (again)

- The gear change mechanism is stupid, i mean, changing gear by rolling a barrel in the mid console? Even just a simpel sequential forward/back stick wouldve been better

- The engine is bad, if they couldnt fit a normal I6 in there, they should have gone for an I4 and brick-built some big turbos, these mini fake engine are prone to miss-adjustment and technically inaccurate, meaning that kids will have a hard time making them run well, and wont learn how a real engine works, undermining the value technic has as a teaching tool.

- It really should have had a diff-lock, even if just for the center diff, any serious off road vehicle (which this purports to be, with a hi/lo box), is useless with three open diffs, one wheel in the air and you are done, go call the support crew

- The winch... operating a winch requires you to open the bonnet.. even worse in terms of realistic playability then the Chirons spoiler.

 

Wow, that last one was really reaching. Now back to reality, most of those points stand imho, i do infact not care a bit about offroaders, and i think the new defender is meh, and the mini-fake engine is 100% getting swapped out once i build mine. BUT, this is a 180 euro, 2600 part set, meaning you get a 42056 level car (and honestly, i think this car is better, it has more actually technic, it loses the paddle shifts, but gains a hi-lo switch, AWD and should actually have a properly working gearbox out of the box), for 60% of the price. I just know that even if i wont get the same enjoyment out of seeing it stand up on a shelf, i will get the same amount of joy from building it, and modding out some of the pet peeves is part of the fun. Im also fully expecting this model to gain enough traction in the community to spawn a "pimp my defender" thread, so six months down the line you will be able to (re)build this set with all the flaws worked out, and probably some cool extra details and features added.

 

SO yeah, not a landy fan, but after 42083 and 42056, i am a big complex car fan, and at this price, it is an absolute bargain

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To be hionest. I wans´t very fond of this model since it was announced. But now that i have seen some facts about this model i want to buy it. Roundabout 2500+ parts for 180€ UVP, most likely a lot cheaper with the usual discounts, more funkctions than the 42056 Porsche or the 42083 Bugatti, and a lot more functions than the 42095 Porsche which is slightly less expensive compared to the Landrover, i would say it has a good value for the costs.

Ok, there are some minor downside like the blue pins the stickers, and the winch is not very sophisiticated. The one thing which disturbs me mist: The little "nail machine" aka the engine. A model this size should have had an engine based on the usual fakeengine parts Lego used in the past. That nail-machine may be appropriate at smaller models as the wannabe-Corvette, or in the Mack, but not here. But aside of this one thing, i like the Landrover.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been rattling by brain trying to figure out what part is used for the rear door latch 'claw/tooth'.

It looks like a lego system curved slope but it has a 1 x 2 x 0.5 liftarm (blue) on top of it so it cant be a curved slope because the studs would obstruct the blue liftarm.

It also looks like it may be attached to the blue liftarm with a red 2L axle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am hoping that the set will be buildable with existing parts to a large extent. Because of the boxy appearance, replacing the new wheel arches with liftarms may not spoil the look so much. Wheels may also be an issue. Fingers crossed.

Looking forward to grey, red/white, black, etc versions :classic:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, SNIPE said:

I've been rattling by brain trying to figure out what part is used for the rear door latch 'claw/tooth'.

It looks like a lego system curved slope but it has a 1 x 2 x 0.5 liftarm (blue) on top of it so it cant be a curved slope because the studs would obstruct the blue liftarm.

It also looks like it may be attached to the blue liftarm with a red 2L axle.

My bet is it's one of these (first in 42078 I think?) It's in the pinhole of a 7L black thin liftarm.

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=24201

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, SNIPE said:

I've been rattling by brain trying to figure out what part is used for the rear door latch 'claw/tooth'.

It looks like a lego system curved slope but it has a 1 x 2 x 0.5 liftarm (blue) on top of it so it cant be a curved slope because the studs would obstruct the blue liftarm.

It also looks like it may be attached to the blue liftarm with a red 2L axle.

Why not download the instructions?

EDIT: Whoops, sorry, thought you were talking about 42098. It's early and I haven't had my tea.

Edited by Maaboo35

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I almost prefer the no body shell version, as all of the internal mechanisms are visible.

The blue pins on the mudguards, are they pin-2L w/axle, or pin-3L? Either way, going to replace them with the black equivalent. Probably replace all of the exposed blue pins with black or MSG equivalents.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.