Anio

UCS T-70 X-Wing (Resistance and Poe Dameron)

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Hi guys !

Recently I completed my UCS T-70 X-Wing. And to be more specific, UCS Poe Dameron's X-Wing and UCS Resistance X-Wing.

As you can see, I used 10240 to design these models. And this is why I would like to thank Kurt for designing 10240. Kurt, if you are reading... cetrio.gif

The wing design is pretty tricky, and I wouldn't have been able to complete the model without starting on such a good set as 10240.

 

48020687417_c3895683ec_b.jpgPoe Dameron's X-Wing by Anio, sur Flickr

48020818927_2ddff75089_b.jpgResistance X-Wing by Anio, sur Flickr

 

Full FlickR galleries : https://www.flickr.com/photos/anio-ucs/albums

 

Getting the wings with perfect match was really a challenge. In the end, I am really happy with the final result.

Note that each model has about 1,975 parts. I prefer the Resistance version, as I am not a big fan of Poe Dameron's X-Wing color scheme.

 

The design is entirely modular :

34.JPG

35.JPG

 

A few more things that I like about these models :

- the half circle with bevel air intake.

- the greebles on the top, in a 75181 style

- the Technic parts between the wings which make plenty of details

- the use of minifig epaulettes as magnetic flashback suppressor. Love it. =)

 

Some videos if you want to see the models in flesh :

 

 

 

 

A few more shots :

48020817982_dd05ace50f_b.jpgResistance X-Wing by Anio, sur Flickr

48020737823_1642b67d22_b.jpgResistance X-Wing by Anio, sur Flickr

48020688172_2cbc0191d0_b.jpgPoe Dameron's X-Wing by Anio, sur Flickr

Questions and comments are welcome. :)

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I agree with you, the Resistance color scheme is much more palatable than the lackluster black and orange.  In addition to this, it's easier to make out the details and techniques present.

Though I am not particularly fond of the T-70, the rear fuselage looks pleasing smooth on this model, likewise, the intakes and the gunmetal macaroni tubing leading into the thrusters adds a nice mechanical touch!

The modularity is the icing on the cake!

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Those are fine looking ships. Although I don't like the design of 10240, you still adapted the design to make 2 admirable X-Wings!

Edited by tfcrafter

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Great build Anio! One small thing though, the nose of 10240 is a problem as it is supposed to be sharper in the movies, that would make the model more accurate.

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Thanks guys. :)

Just now, Reaper said:

the nose of 10240 is a problem as it is supposed to be sharper in the movies, that would make the model more accurate.

You are absolutely right.
I couldn't find a way to make it sharper though. Wedge 6x2 are very good to have a nice curve and flow toward the main fuselage. But then, wedge brick 4x2 41768 doesn't give much room to make a pointed nose.

I tried with slope 35464 but it didn't work.

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Super builds as usual Anio, like most I think I like the Resistance colour scheme the best, I think it does the model more justice and its easier to see the details.

Will you be releasing instructions for the model may I ask?

Once of these the other side of the shelf to your UCS A-wing would look very nice indeed.... 

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21 hours ago, Anio said:

Thanks guys. :)

You are absolutely right.
I couldn't find a way to make it sharper though. Wedge 6x2 are very good to have a nice curve and flow toward the main fuselage. But then, wedge brick 4x2 41768 doesn't give much room to make a pointed nose.

I tried with slope 35464 but it didn't work.

What about this one, I think it looks pretty accurate (credit to @BigTonka)

IMG_2704m.jpg

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Too blocky / lacks flow.

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With respect, imo that nosecone is less blocky than the one you attached to your t-70. Maybe it's a difference of language - Bigtonka's x-wing nose is sharper, but the individual pieces on yours are put together in a more 'traditional' way, meaning the various wedges stack cleanly with no jagged edges. So it does flow better but it has a blunt edge. My suggestion would be to blend them together (not specifically these two, but the intentions behind the different shapes). T-70 nose is much slimmer than the already slim x wing, so you can change the edge to be 2 wide, replace slope bricks with cutout slopes, then the curved slopes come into the 45 bricks much better. Only real negative would be a couple of exposed studs but that would be worth it to have maximum 1 plate thickness seam anywhere on it, compared to 4 plates. Anio i know you like to do your own thing so i'm not suggesting changes to what you already buildt, just sharing my opinion on this matter as i dealt with the same issues at a smaller scale

Edited by atlas

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Just tried it in 3D. As expected, I totally prefer 10240 nose.

Of course, the best is always to have good looking model + accuracy.

But when both are not possible, I always go for flow, clean lines and clean build before accuracy.

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Spot on. I noticed that with a lot of your builds. You almost always stay in system, keep it simple and as you said, clean. Which i respect.  I differ, sometimes I get tunnel vision with regard to focussing on accuracy. Often it can detract from ones work when forgetting about other things. I learnt this the hard way with a few projects and I'm coming back around from that sort of focus

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You got my style. =)

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2 hours ago, ClassicLook said:

Did you have any parts in the right color? Did you use painting elsewhere?

All parts are available in the right color. :)

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Hi!
What batteries did you use for the Poe Dameron engine parts?

I mean the gray vaulted pieces.


The models are awesome! Congratulations!

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I don't know exaclty what you mean, but here are the "non-regular" pieces I used on the engines :

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=62360&idColor=86#T=C&C=86

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=98585&idColor=86#T=C&C=86

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=25214&idColor=86#T=C&C=86

If those parts do not answer your question, you will have to be more specific.

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