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Yes I found that combination also, but it doesn't allow you to get a 1M wide gear to line up with the round pin holes of the new hub. Still it's a handy combination to know.

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I'm sick and tired of control+.

I have 10 battries, 4 had plenty charge  so I put two (of the 6) dead ones in, same make, same type.the hub just blinked orange and wouldnt pair.

I tried more pairs the rest of the 6 dead batteriesm, Still nothing.

So I charge them over night and plug them in this morning.

Now the stupid app says to push the green button which I already have and am doing!!

You can't even turn the hub off without the aid of a phone or taking the battery box out (which is also annoying and fiddly)

I have HAD IT, my 42099 is now in pieces and I may not even botber buying the 42100 for twice the annoyance.

As soon as Lego put a stupid app behind something all hell breaks loose.

All that just cause I wanted to use a LEGO model, which I couldn't because of this GENIOUS app

 

Edited by SNIPE

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17 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

I'm sick and tired of control+.

I have 10 battries, 4 had plenty charge  so I put two (of the 6) dead ones in, same make, same type.the hub just blinked orange and wouldnt pair.

I tried more pairs the rest of the 6 dead batteriesm, Still nothing.

So I charge them over night and plug them in this morning.

Now the stupid app says to push the green button which I already have and am doing!!

You can't even turn the hub off without the aid of a phone or taking the battery box out (which is also annoying and fiddly)

I have HAD IT, my 42099 is now in pieces and I may not even botber buying the 42100 for twice the annoyance.

As soon as Lego put a stupid app behind something all hell breaks loose.

All that just cause I wanted to use a LEGO model, which I couldn't because of this GENIOUS app

 

To be fair, this is not a "Lego" thing.  It is the way the tech industry is moving....period. 

I just bought an expensive Bose system and the thing took all morning... literally three hours to set up with all the blue tooth connectivity issues, WiFi, connecting bass, all speakers, etc.  The whole system is controlled from my phone and there really isn't much of an option for anything else.  I know my rant is not about Lego per se, but the world of phone connectivity, blue tooth, etc. is just the way things are moving.  Went shopping for gym headphones the other day... same thing.  Really hard to find a good set that plugs into my phone.  All blue tooth with their own chargers, own battery, have to do the connecting thing.... etc.  I have the same sentiment as you.... sometimes old technology is better.  But multiple, WHOLE industries are responsible for these changes.... certainly not just Lego...

 

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25 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

so I put two (of the 6)  dead ones in, same make, same type.the hub just blinked orange and wouldnt pair.

Don't do that! Not only the voltage is too low to properly power the device, but if it did, the discharged batteries would start to charge in reverse and that would damage them.
 

25 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

You can't even turn the hub off without the aid of a phone

Question is, how do you turn it on without a phone? If the hub is not paired (blinking white), it shuts down itself after a few seconds. Otherwise, a paired hub can be powered off by maintaining the green button pressed during 8 seconds or so.
Now I agree that LEGO app is perfectible ;)

Edited by Philo

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41 minutes ago, Philo said:

Don't do that! Not only the voltage is too low to properly power the device, but if it did, the discharged batteries would start to charge in reverse and that would damage them.
 

Question is, how do you turn it on without a phone? If the hub is not paired (blinking white), it shuts down itself after a few seconds. Otherwise, a paired hub can be powered off by maintaining the green button pressed during 8 seconds or so.
Now I agree that LEGO app is perfectible ;)

The battery box should have revere current protection

You should be able to turn it off by holding the green button down

There should be a remote for control+ just like there is power functions.

You would not be able to use the sound or gyro, or program it, but it is reliable for driving and steering.

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27 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

You should be able to turn it off by holding the green button down

As Philo mentioned if you hold the green button for 7-8 seconds it disconnects then turns off.

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38 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

The battery box should have revere current protection

That's not a reverse current, just that the discharged batteries which get reverse polarized because of their internal resistance that gets high in that state.

Edited by Philo

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On 9/21/2019 at 7:07 PM, kbalage said:

As Philo mentioned if you hold the green button for 7-8 seconds it disconnects then turns off.

I tried that but it does not work.

There should be some sort of protection in the hub right?

I connected the buwizz app to the hub and after some buggyness when scanning to find it ,it works fine now but no servo control

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Recharable batteries cause lots of these problems,

there voltage is 1,2 volts instead of the 1,5 that "normale batteries" give.

so 6 x 0,3 too low is a total of 1,8 volts = asking for a lot trouble.

Edited by coinoperator

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46 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

I tried that but it does not work.

There should be some sort of protection in the hub right?

I connected the buwizz app to the hub and after some buggyness when scanning to find it ,it works fine now but no servo control

A potential connection issue with the Control+ app can be if you don't have all the motors connected and to their proper ports. The app will only finish the connection sequence if you connect the XL motors to A & B and the L motor to port C. 

I suggest you to try it with a set of fully charged batteries or a set of alkalines. If you have everything set up properly and you still can't connect or your hub won't switch off then it is not a normal behaviour, you should contact customer services. I am constantly using 3 hubs with different motors and never had any similar issues.

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Just picked up the 42099 for £120, just need Efferman's instructions for his version :grin:. Any Links anybody?

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Guys, i have noticed today that when I have picked up model and went full forward one of rear wheels seems to turn much slower. 

When I have turned model off, and I have tried spinning the front wheels it goes way easier than the ones on back (Spining just one wheel so the other one goes opposite direction).

 

Should I take rear part of car apart and rebuild it ?

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I don't have this model but I know there is 2 stages of reduction.

In my opinion, on the front motor you have connected a gear with 20 teeth instead a gear with 12 teeth.

If it's the case the part to be rebuilt is the front one.

Edited by LegoTT
Precision

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On 10/4/2019 at 4:02 PM, LegoTT said:

I don't have this model but I know there is 2 stages of reduction.

In my opinion, on the front motor you have connected a gear with 20 teeth instead a gear with 12 teeth.

If it's the case the part to be rebuilt is the front one.

Both front and rear have the same gearing its not the case.

 

edit,

I am after rebuilding whole rear of the car from scratch and it is same as before. I have found that one of the joints which goes into differential is a bit scratched in the place where it touches the grey frame (marked with red at screen) . The lighter grey parts which connects between differential and wheels has no damages.

 

Edited by Valkyx

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1 hour ago, LegoTT said:

If the gearing is the same so it seem something cause a lot of friction in the rear driveline

I have rebuilt the whole rear of the car from scratch and its the same. Guess there is nothing i can do. Model drives normally, i can see the difference only while its picked up. 

Or when i intentionally keep 1 of rear wheels not moving, when im holding left one motor is working the same, but when im holding the right wheel i hear that the motor is working a bit tougher (idk how to say it differently). 

 

I think i need to rebuilt it into Grohls truck.

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On 9/21/2019 at 12:19 PM, SNIPE said:

I'm sick and tired of control+.

[...]

As soon as Lego put a stupid app behind something all hell breaks loose.

All that just cause I wanted to use a LEGO model, which I couldn't because of this GENIOUS app

It is strange isn't, how such a big company has such trouble when it comes to electronics. Mould King as released a PF battery box the size of the smaller one from Lego, but with technic pin holes for proper connection, rechargable, with 4 connectors, able to power at least 4 L-motors and one servo, 2.4GHz wireless controllable with either a physical remote or a phone app, all this for a very decent price. Basically everything one could wish for. It's really puzzling how small-player Mould King can do it, but market-giant Lego can't..

MouldKing.png

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@ozacek did you actually try it? Based on my experience with the Cada battery & remote (which was also very promising on paper) these devices can offer a very disappointing experience.

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1 hour ago, kbalage said:

@ozacek did you actually try it? Based on my experience with the Cada battery & remote (which was also very promising on paper) these devices can offer a very disappointing experience.

I will soon. From what I understand this one is quite different from the Cada one, but we'll see. What were the problem(s) with the Cada one?

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@ozacek the quality is really questionable (1 of 2 units arrived dead, 1 output on the working one also has issues), and most importantly it does not offer proportional control that is apparently also missing on the one you've linked. This is pretty off-topic for 42099, I suggest to continue the discussion in this one.

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