Touc4nx

[MOC] Subaru WRX STI W/ Instructions

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12 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

Doing the Bodywork first is probably a good Idea for smaller Models like your amazing S2000 that have relatively simple internals. But for models with complicated functions like Gearboxes and stuff, you sometimes have to design the whole body around these functions. In my Honda NSX MOC (which I hope to upload here soon) I started with the 6 speed manual Transmission and built the whole car around it. There is no way I could have put in such a complicated mechanism in after doing the bodywork.

The S2000 is insane at the interior to fix all the bodywork correctly and have the correct angle. Do not think that no gearbox means simple chassis. Nevertheless, I understand your point, it is not always easy to start with the bodywork especially when you want to focus on functioning and functions but here is the difference for me now, I want to focus on the design rather than the functions, it is more challenging for me as it is my weak point. Of course If I want tomake a particular car with particular functions, I will focus on the chassis and then the bodywork if the bodywork is easy to do. With a nice design, the creations is always love, with a bulky design, even if you have made a breakthrough on the inside, it will not have the same impact.

 

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5 minutes ago, nico71 said:

The S2000 is insane at the interior to fix all the bodywork correctly and have the correct angle. Do not think that no gearbox means simple chassis. Nevertheless, I understand your point, it is not always easy to start with the bodywork especially when you want to focus on functioning and functions but here is the difference for me now, I want to focus on the design rather than the functions, it is more challenging for me as it is my weak point. Of course If I want tomake a particular car with particular functions, I will focus on the chassis and then the bodywork if the bodywork is easy to do. With a nice design, the creations is always love, with a bulky design, even if you have made a breakthrough on the inside, it will not have the same impact.

 

I know that Bodywork is a lot of work, especially doing complicated angles. I have been there myself, took me over 2 months to get everything right. The way I ended up doing it is to only design the Bodywork which had to be done to get the functions to work, like the middle console for a manual transmission, and to just leave enaugh space where complicated Bodywork is needed. I guess everyone has to find their own way of doing things in the end. Using sariels model scaler helped me a lot to get the dimensions right. And you are totally right, if the car does not look good, no functions can repair that.

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17 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

Put that hole in the hood, please :wink:

It's going to be here, as I restarted the whole front bodywork because it was two stud too high.

Also as an update, I changed the front suspension to a Mcpherson designed by Sheepo
F.AD.1.jpg
It's compact and strong, but it reduce a bit the travel. I think it's acceptable.
it also allow me to push the servomotor two stud more to the front.

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Do you plan to use stickers for the Subaru Logo? Because I saw a brick built Subaru Logo a while ago, just cant remember where. It was made from a blue 2L technic Liftarm thin (41677) with one white and one black 2l Axle (32062) inside. Looked pretty good imo, I thought you could use that Idea :wink:

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On 6/22/2019 at 3:08 AM, Touc4nx said:

Is that this part you're talking about ?
250x250p.png?1558862171.02757

Exactly that part.  

Nico - appreciate the side bar discussion on insights into your design process. 

Edited by KD123

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Update time. :wink:
I completely redesigned the front.
800x533.jpg 800x533.jpg

There is still the upper radiator to make, with the logo, but I need to work on it.

A good point in my opinion is that the whole bodywork will be removable.
800x533.jpg

Here is the suspension in detail : it's a McPherson strut with drive, designed by Sheepo.
800x533.jpg
That's it for today.

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Great progress, the reworked front looks a lot better now, just like more "fluid", and less bulky.

You could put 2 black 2L technic Liftarms thin facing backwards on that 6l axle in the middle to fill these 2 half stud gaps.

Removable Bodywork is pretty cool too.

Cant wait to see your next progress :grin::thumbup:

 

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I am not sure to totally understand what you mean...
Do you mean putting these 250x250p.jpg?1561408677.422502
here ? 800x533.jpg

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After some time, It's update time !

I have made a new hood. I'm quite satisfied with it except for the 5x7 curved panels... but I haven't found any better solution.

800x533.jpg

800x533.jpg

Sadly, for the bodywork to fit on the chassis I had to change the setup of the fake engine. It still looks out like a boxer 4 engine but it has two crankshafts... It's also a bit wider.
800x533.jpg

 

I also work on the doors.

1280x853.jpg

I have a quite good setup. It allows the front door to be locked, and unlocked using the door handle.

800x533.jpg

The rear door has no mechanism as there is no space due to the motor that activates the locking differential.

1280x853.jpg

That's it for today's update, hope you like it.

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Nice progress on the BodyworBodywork :classic::thumbup:

So you chose to have two crankshafts to get the correct piston placement?

I would have used one crankshaft, incorrect piston placement is just a thing LEGO fake engines have. Like that you would hava a more simple and compact engine, leaving more space in the engine bay for nice details :wink:

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14 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

So you chose to have two crankshafts to get the correct piston placement?

No, It's to have the correct piston movement as it's a boxer engine. It's probably better explained on wikipedia, I not good at explaining...
Anyway it's basically like that: the right one is boxer, and the left one is flat engine.
Moteurs_%C3%A0_Plat_-_V_%C3%A0_180%C2%B0

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Yeah thats what I meant, I was not able to explain it well.

So, what I wanted to say... I would have gone for a flat engine. Close enough imo.

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Hello,
I worked a bit more on the car, I made the trunk that can be opened.

800x533.jpg

I also started the interior of the car, for now I have made the driver's seat and the central part, with fake gear shifter and fake hand brake.

800x533.jpg

I also painted some old gray wheel, with metallic silver paint :

1280x853.jpg

P.s. Sorry for the mess and bad lightning in the pictures.

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Glad your making progress on the WRX.  I like how the car is shaping up.  On the front is car I see two 4L thin black and two 11L beans that are exposed, thus showing the holes which I think conflicts with the look of the car otherwise.  Have you considered capping it with a black tile or rotating the beams? Keep going, following with interest! 👍

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Thanks for the support, concerning the 11L beams on front I can turn the top one a quarter of turn without any problems. However for the other parts it will require some tinkering and tweaks.

 

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It's been a long time without progress, as I had other things to do, however, I almost finished the car, it just need the rear seats.
The bodywork is finished. (It's a bit dusty :grin:)
800x533.jpg
800x533.jpg

I tried to remove the visible blue pins as much as I can do, however I don't have enough of this part :
250x250p.png?1558907554.1659517

so there is still some blue spot that I won't replace as these pins are pretty expensive if you want a lot of them.

I also decorated the engine bay, as close as possible to the real one.
800x533.jpg2019-Subaru-WRX-STI-Limited-Engine.png

I made a custom turbo-compressor that is on the left of the engine. On the right, the battery (the white block) is removable.

I also made a dashboard. To make it look nice I had to use a lot of system parts, therefore the steering wheel isn't linked with the steering.
I just need to make custom sticker for the gauges.
800x533.jpg

Between the seats, there is a fake gear shifter and a fake handbrake. The metallic "radiator tile" (I don't now their real name) are supposed to look like the aerations.
800x533.jpg

 

This project is almost finished, and I will make instructions using Stud.io.
Hope you enjoy it, feel free to suggest me improvement or criticism.

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Looking good! You could get yourself some of these black pins from Aliexpress reasonably cheap, just saying :wink:

But you probably dont want to mix them with your LEGO bricks, understandable.

 

Such a Black Car is impossible to keep clean, its always dusty, its the same with my NSX :hmpf_bad:

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Looking fantastic! Absolutely love the pearl effect on painted wheels :wub:

An easy way to get the rare black pins (come on TLG, not that hard to make them again instead of the colour vomit guts) is to cut 1 stud off the axle on 18651 (done that myself :tongue:), which are very common nowadays (1 cent per part on BL)

18651.png

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18 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

Aliexpress reasonably cheap, just saying

Probably, however I don't understand how this website works :grin:  (And I'm kind of a purist, but that's an other discussion)

4 hours ago, syclone said:

cut 1 stud off the axle on 18651

I will have to try that the next time I do a brick link order. (However it won't be until a long time as I recently bought 8466)

4 hours ago, syclone said:

Looking fantastic

 

19 hours ago, Gray Gear said:

Looking good!

Thanks :blush:

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