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2 hours ago, Jonas said:

Yes. Those round tiles are used to eliminate any potential friction of rotating parts.

I got that but in step 6 two tiles have been added already...

p.jpeg?fv_content=true&size_mode=5

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On 6/28/2019 at 6:52 PM, FernandoQ said:

My version of the Ball Factory (Akiyuki-Berthil) in its first public appearance

 

https://youtu.be/tE-dekrEpLo

Excellent! I love how you did the ball return. Are there any plans or can you point me to the necessary modules? I can figure out the Snake slide since I have those plans from Akiyuki. I am getting ready to dismantle my Vers 2 Ball machine so I can reuse all the parts. My version 3 will be a combination of Black, DBG, LBG, Yellow, and a lot of RED bricks :)

20181201_171709.jpg.f10c0473d7e042979987d5348e318e08.jpg

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On 6/29/2019 at 5:43 PM, Theo van Vroenhoven said:

I got that but in step 6 two tiles have been added already...

p.jpeg?fv_content=true&size_mode=5

It's only two of those under the gears to indeed reduce friction. Probably there is a double placement in Studio in the exact same spot, sometimes very hard to see. I will check and remove it. Thanks for the feedback!

On 6/29/2019 at 12:52 AM, FernandoQ said:

My version of the Ball Factory (Akiyuki-Berthil) in its first public appearance

 

https://youtu.be/tE-dekrEpLo

Excellent! You got it to run very smoothly. I also like the ball return very much!

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Posted (edited)

I had trouble making the 'Bucket shifter timer' properly.

The length of the four axles passing through the technic connector(32013) differs from that of Berthil's module.

The 0.5 stud length of the axle is not inserted.

There is no problem in running it.

I also wonder where the four 15379 technic links are.

Berthil's module's technique link(15379) location is different from that of TheRebricker.. Because of this, it seems that there is a problem with the basket Jamming and falling off.

 

 

https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/ajhstyle/ball-factory-v

 

Edited by Innocity

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I just began to de-construct my Ver 2 Ball Factory and checking to see what parts I can reuse. I know I will have to order a great many new and additional parts for Ver 3. I don't have any 1x14 and 1x16 Technic bricks. So it will be awhile until I order them and can begin the actual build.

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@Berthil I have begun to build your Ver 3, but I already have a question.. Part 1, step 13, parts show two 1x1 plates, and two 1/2 bushings. From the drawing I do not see where those parts go. I have blown up the pdf, but inside the red outlines it does not show where they go. Any help, please? Thank you.

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On 7/17/2019 at 5:35 AM, Ankoku said:

One for @Berthil

Check the video description.

Almost an exact copy :)

I however see your ramp switch moving and that shouldn't be the case. I suggest he checks the underside to see if it is properly mounted and not touching anything. The space is tight there with the bucket shifter back and forth switch. I don't know if that has caused his original problem but I will check his remarks.

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6 hours ago, Berthil said:

Almost an exact copy :)

I however see your ramp switch moving and that shouldn't be the case. I suggest he checks the underside to see if it is properly mounted and not touching anything. The space is tight there with the bucket shifter back and forth switch. I don't know if that has caused his original problem but I will check his remarks.

Your eyes are correct. It is true that the ramp switch moves.
However, it does not mean that the underside is not fixed.
As instructed in part 3 245, it is fixed on two technic bricks(32064).
In part 3 246 and 314, these bricks appear to result from their movement because they are connected to the bucket shift timer of part 3 314.
Your original module is different from that of the instruction. I can not see the ramp switch in your original module. 
It would be better to remove the ramp switch and fix the ramp independently to other bricks.

 

https://bricksafe.com/pages/ajhstyle/ball-factory-v

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On 6/30/2019 at 6:45 PM, rskamen said:

Excellent! I love how you did the ball return. Are there any plans or can you point me to the necessary modules? I can figure out the Snake slide since I have those plans from Akiyuki. I am getting ready to dismantle my Vers 2 Ball machine so I can reuse all the parts. My version 3 will be a combination of Black, DBG, LBG, Yellow, and a lot of RED bricks :)

20181201_171709.jpg.f10c0473d7e042979987d5348e318e08.jpg

Thank you. The return of the ball is with the Tester a module with a snake longer than usual and the Pin-Ball elevator of Akiyuki. Also in this case I have used my Whirligig version with instructions from Matt Norman and an extended version of Maico's Skaerbaek.

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2 hours ago, FernandoQ said:

Thank you. The return of the ball is with the Tester a module with a snake longer than usual and the Pin-Ball elevator of Akiyuki. Also in this case I have used my Whirligig version with instructions from Matt Norman and an extended version of Maico's Skaerbaek.

hank you for the information. That is a lot of extra modules. Great work and exceedingly interesting. I may attempt one or two ball return options.

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On 7/18/2019 at 5:41 PM, rskamen said:

@Berthil I have begun to build your Ver 3, but I already have a question.. Part 1, step 13, parts show two 1x1 plates, and two 1/2 bushings. From the drawing I do not see where those parts go. I have blown up the pdf, but inside the red outlines it does not show where they go. Any help, please? Thank you.

@rskamen The two plates go on the inside of the arch bricks to prevent marbles from going in too deep there. I've adjusted the BI to show it better.
What seems to be a 1/2 bush is in fact the center part of the 3L universal joint. Studio depicts them this way in the parts list as explained on the page with text.

On 7/20/2019 at 1:37 AM, Innocity said:

In part 3 246 and 314, these bricks appear to result from their movement because they are connected to the bucket shift timer of part 3 314.
Your original module is different from that of the instruction. I can not see the ramp switch in your original module. 
It would be better to remove the ramp switch and fix the ramp independently to other bricks.

The steps and parts you describe here are the rod to drive the bucket shifter back and forth but are not connected to the ramp in any way.
The top of the drive rod mechanism is close to the bottom of the ramp but is not connected. I suggest you check the drive rod and ramp for correct position.
Of course you may also dispose of the ramp if you do not use the inbox return loop and fixate the ramp with modified plates with clips as I did in my first design.

I'm updating all BI parts at the moment with feedback through here, Rebrickable, Youtube and even through Dropbox for which I thank you all. These are all small adjustments. Unfortunately the latest Studio version crashes all the time when exporting to PDF so I'm not able to update all BI parts on Rebrickable at the moment, especially part 3.

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@Berthil Thank you for your explanations. I did figure out that the 1/2 bush is actually part of the 3L Universal joint. I had a few of them already assembled, thus it was hard to see the 1/2 bush internal connector. I also just added the 1x1 as you pointed out. Very difficult to do after the spiral lift is built, but it's Lego! I just finished part 1. Had to make some minor adjustments. Mostly I used the wrong length axles in a few applications and it was very frustrating until I figured it out. I have everything in part 1 timed perfectly at the moment and will begin part 2 in the next day or two. My Ver 2 is now a mess of random parts scattered all over the two 48x48 base plates :(

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Posted (edited)

Just wondering...instead of the two counterbalance weights that are used in Part 1 of the instructions, can a rubber band solution be improvised? Much like the Reverser unit mod on the Akiyuki train layout. Especially the counter-weight for the release mechanism of the Ball Picker (instruction 126 of Part 1). The counter-weight for the Ball Pusher (instruction 96 of Part 1) isn't as big, but I think a rubber band or spring loaded shocker absorber to help with the return position might be a bit more powerful and elegant. I don't have any shock absorbers, but I will experiment with some rubber band alternatives. If I come up with anything that is meaningful and reliable, I will post some pictures. I will caution, my talents and parts bins are both rather meager.

Edited by rskamen

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I did a few rubber band mods that worked, but the resulting action was a "snap" back effect and it created a bang. Went back to the counter-weights for now. I am through step 183 in part 2. When turning the partially completed factory by hand, everything feels stiff. Not free and easy. Bob either slams forward, or slams back. Has some resistance as well at the turning blocks. II ordered some new parts for that section just to make sure everything is glossy smooth. The axles that Bob rides on a perfectly straight and tested them with @Berthil home made axle checker. Have quite a bit of building to go and I am afraid that the motor won't be able to turn the gears of the factory. Anyone else experience this? Any particular spots I should be looking at? Individually, each section that is currently built operates pretty easily, except for turning Bob which I am addressing.

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On 7/29/2019 at 8:46 PM, rskamen said:

Have quite a bit of building to go and I am afraid that the motor won't be able to turn the gears of the factory.

It's amazing how light everything runs if build correctly :)

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Even with the original ball factory, you should be able to hand crank it easily.

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Posted (edited)
On 7/31/2019 at 12:50 PM, Berthil said:

It's amazing how light everything runs if build correctly :)

 

On 7/31/2019 at 1:18 PM, Ankoku said:

Even with the original ball factory, you should be able to hand crank it easily.

My Ver 2 ran very easily with a hand crank. There was almost no resistance during the build, even as I added modules. I received my new parts for the turning block for BOB. That does seem to help a bit. When disconnected, BOB runs very easily and smoothly. I am at step 244, almost done with part 2 of the build. I will not proceed to Part 3 until I check again each module, gear, and axle. I will double check that everything aligns and where an axle passes through a technic brick, I will check to see if anything is binding. Just an idea, instead of the 32L axle that pushes/pulls BOB, has anyone tried using a few technic beams, solidly connected together? Would this eliminate any flexing that I see in the 32L axle. Although now that I put new parts in BOBs turning block, the 32L does not flex any longer. Could have been resistance on the old parts I was recycling from Ver 2. I have a very busy weekend and all of next week. Might be awhile before I post again. 

Edited by rskamen

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