Sign in to follow this  
Mechbuilds

Mechbuilds Projects

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the tip @syclone

I have started to construct the mud guard frame a little bit.
Still stuck with the interior + gear + engine mount stuff.. 

The suspension is very soft. (I have the LDD at the same point as in real life. )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

like right now???

 

update.. link has no download!!

Edited by sirslayer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

You're welcome :classic: What length in between axles are you looking for? (link works for me)

Edited by syclone

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, sirslayer said:

I didn't work.. takes you to a hacker website??  

Works fine for me and @syclone

2 hours ago, syclone said:

You're welcome :classic: What length in between axles are you looking for? (link works for me)

Currently it's 11 studs between tires from left to right.. For rear tyre to front tyre, i guess around 18-22 studs?  
It's supposed to be a pickup truck with a big truck bed and a cabin for 2-3 technic sized figures. 
I don't mind if the XL engine is on the bed itself. But if it's possible to make so it's not then all the better.. The bed and cab needs to be about 13-15 studs wide perhaps. 

There is no exact model of car to copy from. This is purely just for some backyard trial truck fun and i'm planning on just having this one chassis and modifying the body work.. 
If the rear axle can be modular so it can be moved a stud or two easily then it would be awesome for the future. 

I've always built 90% complete models at best because making bodywork is hard.. Pickup truck has minimal body work and it's effective as is. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Based off your feature/wanted list, placing the XL motor after the servo seems the most reasonable option. this gives enough space for 3 stud wide seats with 13 stud wide body or 4 stud (standard 90's technic seat) with 15 stud body. battery box/receiver can live behind the seats.

download

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you @syclone    i think I dont have LDD installed (usb drive only) I guess it takes me to media file?? google drive  or drop box is safe. and mechbuilds, did you create the file???  its only the front end and Im stuck now in making this the best jeep ever.. but I got a shuttle to do ...  thank you!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, sirslayer said:

Thank you @syclone    i think I dont have LDD installed (usb drive only) I guess it takes me to media file?? google drive  or drop box is safe. and mechbuilds, did you create the file???  its only the front end and Im stuck now in making this the best jeep ever.. but I got a shuttle to do ...  thank you!!

Yeah i created the LDD file. It was pretty easy because i just copied the same moc i have here physically on my desk. 


@syclone I know what you mean, i tried that before but since the hood is very narrow, the technic guy will be sitting very close to the edge which will look funny. 
That's why i'm trying hard to put the motor to the back and have a 5 stud long space after the front so i can fit the technic guy there. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you are the author??  I have never seen that type of build for the steering.. I still think my is the best.. just joking.. Im always in the quest for technic steering mods for models like 42093 and the 42075 class. or the 11L axles.. ..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, sirslayer said:

So you are the author??  I have never seen that type of build for the steering.. I still think my is the best.. just joking.. Im always in the quest for technic steering mods for models like 42093 and the 42075 class. or the 11L axles.. ..

The steering system is pretty much 99% copied from @rm8's toyota FJ40. I just modified the track bar a little bit so it has a better flex for crawling. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay here is an update on a project i'm working on.. 

It's going to be an RWD truck with good suspension for rough terrain and maybe even jumps.. 

jPq2Jk7l.jpg

uoZCxpdl.jpg


I need to figure out the front end skid plate thing and a proper bumper with lights on it. 
After that, a floor for the cab and interior.. 

I'm thinking if i should have a big turntable after the front axle and connect that to the rear so i can get good suspension travel.. 
I will also make a truck bed on top of the rear axle. 


Any tips or pointers? (The truck cabin is high because of suspension travel. It still touches the gray beam when at max. I'll probably limit the travel.. )
Should i make the cabin tilt sideways or forwards? Maybe even both ways? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cabin done. 

fRvVxuql.jpg
3FNfv21l.jpg
e48WKkQl.jpg

There's a back wall, floor, steering wheel and instrument cluster.. I need a normal system lego 2x12 plate so i have a solid piece where to attach the technic figures legs.. 
Also there is room behind the seat for stuff. 

Now i can start figuring out a front bumper and how to attach this beast to the chassis. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like your projects!!!   maybe like how the new technic car transporter uses its bumper!!  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have made a cool bumper utilizing these parts:

lego-angle-connector-4-135-32192-42156-3

It's quite robust and directly connected to the frame. Pics once i figure out if i want a tilting cab or not.. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It look like your clearance from the floor to the center of the front diff, is a bit low??????  looks like around 1l in height??  i guess it depends if you're not needing 6x6 or not?? its a RC thing I guess.... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, sirslayer said:

It look like your clearance from the floor to the center of the front diff, is a bit low??????  looks like around 1l in height??  i guess it depends if you're not needing 6x6 or not?? its a RC thing I guess.... 

I don't completely understand what you mean? 

c4gUavDl.jpg

5E1GWUrl.jpg
There is technically a 3 stud sized gap for a winch which could be powered by an M motor.. And a hole in the bumper for a winch. 
Also when the suspension is completely compressed, the tyre will barely have clearance on the beam. Like half a stud. And that's only because i put those angled beams as stoppers there on the middle. 

Btw i'm thinking about ordering buwizz simply because it has an battery with the sending unit module.. With an S brick, i'd still need to attach that heavy battery box somewhere and change AA batteries constantly... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you looked in front of your model, I guess you don't have a front differential?? your distance of the from axle to the ground.. it looked low but it is hard to tell without a front picture

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, sirslayer said:

if you looked in front of your model, I guess you don't have a front differential?? your distance of the from axle to the ground.. it looked low but it is hard to tell without a front picture

There is 2,5 studs of room and the front wheels are not driven in an RWD model. But i have great steering radius. Almost drifting range. And the front suspension is very soft and bouncy. 

EDIT: Because the cab is heavy, the front end is kinda sagging.. I might make a last ditch effort to add second springs on top.. But without the cabin, there is 2,5 studs of room under the front axle. With the cabin, only 1 stud. 

Edited by Mechbuilds

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's looking great, I like the very front look and its very original and can't wait to see the outcome. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, sirslayer said:

It's looking great, I like the very front look and its very original and can't wait to see the outcome. 

I could trade the long suspension travel into only a 1,5 stud travel but way stiffer suspension. 
There's the question.. Do i want something that sags but corners well, or do i want something that doesn't sag but has great ground clearance and a stiff suspension which is great of bumps and jumps.. 

The thing is.. Why not both? I can have detachable stiffening springs. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update:

Now with two springs with lots of preload. The suspension is now stiffer but still giving once the preload is gone. (only 1 stud of travel)
But this allowed me to add mudguards and lower the cab by one stud. 

GQ28hwll.jpgFOAWq0rl.jpg
XOpE2q6l.jpg


Here is a comparison of old vs new:

25V5zv8l.jpgc4gUavDl.jpg


The cabin looks higher cause the bumper is flipped upside down.. I need to modify the bumper a bit so it fits more fluidly. 
I could use this piece:
 lego-beam-1-x-2-with-axle-hole-and-pin-h
But the bumper would be one stud more in the front.. I need to experiment.. 



But overall, i like the latter one because i don't have to worry scraping the tyres on the cabin.. Even if i threw away 1,5 studs of suspension travel. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tend to design my own electrical hookups to batteries that is experimental and easy to learn and 2 x or more the performance of the buzzless ?? The secret for performance is the ability to design a frictionless drivetrain and be reliable at top speed .. Torque on plastics is bad ..  In high speed , heat and friction can be controlled to a degree ..     ..There is a user on this board and I forget his name..   his frictionless design and a popular Grey hound MOC that the user designed!! If you ever have a chance when your finished with your current cab over.. roll the MOC on the ground and see if you roll the MOC fast enough and you let it go and see..if your MOC goes the farther distance , the lesser the friction ..     Your attention to detail on how your recent cab over suspension worked floored me..That must been a lot of work to noticed that ..    Back on your suspension design.. have you try to pull a heavy load by any chance? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, sirslayer said:

I tend to design my own electrical hookups to batteries that is experimental and easy to learn and 2 x or more the performance of the buzzless ?? The secret for performance is the ability to design a frictionless drivetrain and be reliable at top speed .. Torque on plastics is bad ..  In high speed , heat and friction can be controlled to a degree ..     ..There is a user on this board and I forget his name..   his frictionless design and a popular Grey hound MOC that the user designed!! If you ever have a chance when your finished with your current cab over.. roll the MOC on the ground and see if you roll the MOC fast enough and you let it go and see..if your MOC goes the farther distance , the lesser the friction ..     Your attention to detail on how your recent cab over suspension worked floored me..That must been a lot of work to noticed that ..    Back on your suspension design.. have you try to pull a heavy load by any chance? 

You gotta give @efferman some credit on that suspension setup. I just modified it a little to add lots of preload. 
I don't know.. I might make a modular chassis design so i could have a dakar truck, a pickup bed truck.. 
But yeah the intention is that it's offroad and RWD. 

I still haven't decided on a proper rear axle for this thing. I might go two L motors, one for each wheel and use the motor as a part of a suspension arm.. 
Or maybe i'll go with a live axle and power it with an XL motor..  

If you have a rear axle design that's very durable for a moc of this size, then please share! :laugh:
It will be run with buwizz.  


Oh also, it's not too late to have a large turntable in the middle so i can have even more cowbell. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm really struggling with the rear axle for this one.. I tried using the rear axle of Paave's truck.. But the axle mount point is too high so the truck bed would look weird..

What i need is an lower profile axle that's sturdy. The motor can be a part of the axle like the axle itself is an T shape with the XL motor in the middle.. But how to mount it onto a frame that's 2 studs lower profile.. 
I've been tinkering with many different axles myself and i've also tried copying some axles of mocs.. There is always issues though..

Either the axle is just 2-4 studs too wide and can't be used. Or the axle isn't sturdy enough and it curves and bends and eventually breaks parts. 
And if i manage to get a perfect axle that's both sturdy and not too wide. Then it's mounting points are too high.. 


Grr... 
And as far as i know, it's impossible to make an indenpendent rear axle for this because the axle needs to be 13 studs wide from tire to tire.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.