Redimus Posted November 30, 2018 (edited) I'm looking for ideas for bogie details that use more than the standard side plates. I'm looking to build a rake of 7 wide BR Mk1s. At least one will have powered bogies using the standard train motor*, so it needs to be a solution that can be used with powered and none power bogies. I've tried several ideas in Studio and I'm drawing a blank at the moment, so any ideas will be gratefully received. *I might consider a Technic motor option, but I'd need a compelling reason to do so. Edited November 30, 2018 by Redimus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProvenceTristram Posted November 30, 2018 Can you perhaps share a few screenshots of a real life prototype? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted November 30, 2018 Certainly! The BR Mk1 coaches had 2 types of bogie, I think the second one shown is probably the more achievable in Lego, but so far I have failed to do so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M_slug357 Posted December 1, 2018 You could always try my solution? Fake Bogie by Nick Jackson, on Flickr It's not very parts intensive, but with a few more greebles you could probably get it to look more like the prototype? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted December 2, 2018 That is very much plan B, but I would much rather the bogies looked distinct from the majority of lego bogies. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProvenceTristram Posted December 2, 2018 I'll take a look at the problem tonight, if I can remember. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M_slug357 Posted December 2, 2018 16 hours ago, Redimus said: That is very much plan B, but I would much rather the bogies looked distinct from the majority of lego bogies. It might help then to post some pictures of your own attempt(s) so that the rest of us can see what direction(s) you're trying to go? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted December 2, 2018 2 hours ago, M_slug357 said: It might help then to post some pictures of your own attempt(s) so that the rest of us can see what direction(s) you're trying to go? Since my last reply, I have made some progress. I did some more mucking about on Studio, eventually coming up with this: I built it as best I could with what I had, and tried it out on one of my Pullmans: Unfortunately, it sticks out too far: I decided to do a simpler version, which is within the 7 stud limit, however, I'd still be interested to see what others can come up with, because I'm not 100% sold yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ScotNick Posted December 2, 2018 (edited) I did design a bogie about 2 years ago, this is what it looks like built (sorry, don't have a pic from a better angle right now) Teaser by ScotNick1, on Flickr However the bogie is built totally with snot. The shown coach is actually a power coach with an XL motor powering each bogie. I would've been much more happier with just using Lego's original motor, but it has so few attachment points to fix the details to, plus the bogie plate in the middle adds a plate in height. Hope this might help Cheers, Nick Edited December 2, 2018 by ScotNick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted December 2, 2018 (edited) I have considered doing away with the train motor. However I'm not keen because it is a less reliable system (cause I suck at technic) and has the major disadvantage of me not having any of the most expensive component. I like the use of the hands, may have to look into that! I'm also having a lot of 'ums' and 'ahhs' about the shape of the coach it's self. I've experimented with the curved sloped bottom before, and I just feel the shape makes it look a lot more old fashioned than it should do, and have seen some very nice Mk1s with completely slab-sided sides. Haven't decided for sure which I'll go for yet though. Edited December 2, 2018 by Redimus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProvenceTristram Posted December 3, 2018 (edited) I went with the second one because it was weird. And the file: http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=00085392392247092549 Honestly, I think you should stop worrying about width (within reason). Lego models are about compromise, and detail should always win out over precision scaling. Edited December 3, 2018 by ProvenceTristram Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted December 3, 2018 I'd love to, but the locos that will pull this are large locos (in real life), and 7 wide, and it'd look weird if they were noticeably skinnier than the coaches. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProvenceTristram Posted December 3, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, Redimus said: I'd love to, but the locos that will pull this are large locos (in real life), and 7 wide, and it'd look weird if they were noticeably skinnier than the coaches. You mean broader? That truck was meant for an 8w. Honestly, I think you're looking at a problem of physics, after a certain point, when it comes to 7w - by chopping off that extra stud, you are losing the opportunity to expand detailing on the trucks. Yes, you can get creative with technic pieces and force a resolution, but you basically eliminate the possibility of all mounts similar to the one I posted - there just isn't room; it cannot be done in a manner that provides the most flexibility. This is part of the reason why I urge everyone - including British modellers - to accept an 8w standard across the board. 7w isn't just hanstringing your creativity - it is making the issue of track gauge-to-stud-width (something that is by no means resolved in 8w, but at least manageable), almost absurd. At 7w, standard gauge comes out looking like 6 and a half feet. That's not a problem anyone who is worried about the details on bogies should casually overlook. Edited December 3, 2018 by ProvenceTristram Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted December 4, 2018 (edited) We're sued to dodgy track gauges over here, 00 gauge uses the same track as H0 gauge, but is 4mm to the ft instead of 3.5mm. Part of the reason I stick to 7 wide (other than it's an interesting challenge working in odd stud lengths) is to keep everything roughly in scale with everything I already have, including a couple of 8 wide European bits. I've already gone from 6 wide to 7 wide, but at the time I didn't have much that would look out of place with the wider standard, I have several locos that are very dear to me that would look odd if run with 8 wide traction and rolling stock now. On your solution, do the wheels fit behind the brackets? Edited December 4, 2018 by Redimus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ProvenceTristram Posted December 4, 2018 4 minutes ago, Redimus said: We're sued to dodgy track gauges over here, 00 gauge uses the same track as H0 gauge, but is 4mm to the ft instead of 3.5mm. Part of the reason I stick to 7 wide (other than it's an interesting challenge working in odd stud lengths) is to keep everything roughly in scale with everything I already have, including a couple of 8 wide European bits. I've already gone from 6 wide to 7 wide, but at the time I didn't have much that would look out of place with the wider standard, I have several locos that are very dear to me that would look odd if run with 8 wide traction and rolling stock now. On your solution, do the wheels fit behind the brackets? Not in LDD, but I can make them fit IRL. I understand your overall point; there's always the possibility I may at some later date regret not doing 9w, myself :P. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redimus Posted December 4, 2018 That is also an issue, lol. There is a part of me that would love to go 8w, but then that part will start to crave 9w and before we know it, I'll need a second set of tracks for each loco, lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ashi Valkoinen Posted December 6, 2018 I used plates with vertical clips, bars and some 1×1 tiles with clips and some technic parts to create this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites