Roadmonkeytj

Switching Puzzle

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I think this is the first 4-wide-bonnet shunter I've seen using the PU battery hub - and it looks perfect! The fact that such a small, motorised loco using unmodified LEGO parts is possible now is brilliant to me. And I think there's enough space to incorporate working headlamps, at least at the cab end. I'd love to see this diminutive engine running!

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4 hours ago, ColletArrow said:

I think this is the first 4-wide-bonnet shunter I've seen using the PU battery hub - and it looks perfect! The fact that such a small, motorised loco using unmodified LEGO parts is possible now is brilliant to me. And I think there's enough space to incorporate working headlamps, at least at the cab end. I'd love to see this diminutive engine running!

Definately the cab side ... Might take some reworking to get headlights in the bonnet side.  But overall Im very pleased with the modification to the original design.

Stay tunned as I'm still building ... You'll get a running pic before too long. 

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Update:

So I took a couple short videos.  This is only using the first speed ... I definately need to redesign with some lower gearing as it moves way too quick for a shunter.  So I may try to figure out a way to incorporate the MPu motor.  However it moves smothly through switches.  I'm actually testing out the new cross over from 4Dbricks. 

You'll have to excuse the shoes lol (pictures are videos just click them)

 

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20190625_093842

 

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Update:

More progress! 

This is the basic track layout.  I will have yard limit signs on the loop as a challenge and I have crossovers to go on the long straight stretch to connect to the club layout for larger shows.

20190626_030728

So Ive built the lower frames of all the cars just to see spacing of the decouplers.   Still need to finish both tankers and both gondola cars.  The boxcars are waiting on roofs and the flat cars waiting on sides.

Here is a quick video.  I did not video me testing cars through the switches but it pulls/pushes 3-4 no problem.  I had no issue pulling the whole consist but could not push it into the sidings so I will have them sort the cars into the sidings.  Theres actually alot of wheel hop and spin right before it derails at the switch.

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The track is elevated 4 plates in both of these.  If the puzzle goes over well I want to ballast and install tiles for ties 

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Looking good! How many wagons can each siding fit, and how many will the yard limits allow to be drawn out?

Also, are you planning on adding any scenery such as buildings, a loading platform or a crane? I think the layout would benefit from somewhere to pose a few minifig workers to give more life to the yard.

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Looks like you’ve got a proper 3-3-5 nook there!

Since you only need 8 rolling stock I guess the other two are just for variety? 

My latest layout plan. 

New layout plan. Loosely timesaverish. American image industrial. Box cars, tank cars and a GE 44tonner for switching.

the short spur in bottom right is the connection to club layouts. Should be a good amount of switching to do, either as timesaver or inglenook patterns.

 

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6 hours ago, ColletArrow said:

Looking good! How many wagons can each siding fit, and how many will the yard limits allow to be drawn out?

Also, are you planning on adding any scenery such as buildings, a loading platform or a crane? I think the layout would benefit from somewhere to pose a few minifig workers to give more life to the yard.

Thanks!

Originally I planed for 2 or three still got to add the track bumpers and decoupling device to know for sure.

Yes scenery is planned I have a switch house and some MoW trucks.  I'm keeping it fairly barebones until I see if it goes over well enough to give it more details. 

3 hours ago, Chromeknight said:

Looks like you’ve got a proper 3-3-5 nook there!

Since you only need 8 rolling stock I guess the other two are just for variety

Thank you ... That was the goal!

Yes extra two are variety or to put in the way to make it more challenging for the "experienced nook operators" lol.

Your layout looks intriguing as well ...

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Progress .  .  .

Got the decoupler working last night .... 

20190629_022249

Open

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The under belly ... thanks to @ritztoys for testing my LDD file ... And leting me know the fail point.  Ordered different parts and his advice was spot on!

Had to reinforce the 11L axle to take more torque

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Some clearence photos ... Thats a 8W wagon

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Another update!

So after putting the decouplers in place ... Then moving them after some operation testing.  Ive got them in the final position and began running tests.

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I found the third car would pull itself over the decoupler.  So I added a half bushing and problem solved!

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And as a bonus the layout with no cars.  I set the roof of the switch house in place to give an idea of layout for me.  The single spur track will store the two spare cars when not active in the puzzle.

Still need to build the buffer stops and finish the air operated switches (planed to leave the storage spur manually thrown). . . And once the rest of the parts on a slow boat arrive I can route hoses and finish the cars up.

20190705_024337

 

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On 6/22/2019 at 3:57 PM, ColletArrow said:

I think this is the first 4-wide-bonnet shunter I've seen using the PU battery hub - and it looks perfect! The fact that such a small, motorised loco using unmodified LEGO parts is possible now is brilliant to me. And I think there's enough space to incorporate working headlamps, at least at the cab end. I'd love to see this diminutive engine running!

Mine's pretty small too. Uses the PF not PU battery though.

 

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3 hours ago, sed6 said:

Mine's pretty small too. Uses the PF not PU battery though.

I actually was originally thinking of something like this when I discovered the Koef.  

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Update _ Update _ Update!

So I got the switch house built ... Missing a few odds and ends but its mostly complete ... And the Air compressor is fitted!

20190709_052831

Missing the blasters still two light grey installed to hold the railings in place. The Air tank will be getting a fuel oil sticker and black hose.  (Never mind the cylinder its just testing how many clicks I got before Im out ... So I can tweek my auto shut off rubber band.

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So far is has no interior but something is visible if you look carefully 

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I designed the back wall to remove to change batteries and to turn on the compressor.

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And finally the whole 

20190709_052946

 

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Wow! This looks great!

I'm curious though, the compressor will run your decoupling set up and the switches? What is the PSI required to operate the switch? Have you been able to figure out the switch issue you mentioned in the Pneumatic Switches thread?

Edited by ALCO
more thoughts

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11 hours ago, Chromeknight said:

Lovely work! Seems like it’s coming together.

Thanks!

 

1 hour ago, ALCO said:

Wow! This looks great!

I'm curious though, the compressor will run your decoupling set up and the switches? What is the PSI required to operate the switch? Have you been able to figure out the switch issue you mentioned in the Pneumatic Switches thread?

Thank you ... so this is compressor that hodcarrier linked in the other thread I have added two more air tanks and the gauge read 10psi before it clicked off. (Im using a single white band currently) I was able to switch the decoupler back and forth about 10 times before it needed to run again.   Unfortunately it was late by the time I got it assembled so I did not get to test the switch yet.

I only get a few hours a week to work on this.

 

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On 7/10/2019 at 1:30 PM, ALCO said:

What is the PSI required to operate the switch?

So the decoupler ran just fine at 10psi ... I bumped the system to 20 psi (kicks back on at 10) with 4 air tanks. I can get 4 switches of the track or 6 of the decoupler before the pump kicks back on.

1 hour ago, ritztoys said:

@Roadmonkeytj I was glad to be able to help, now that you refined your design, I'll be saving this for future rail yard additions to my display too.

No worries please do use ... Did you see I had to add a half bushing to the catch rods? Thanks again for the help.  

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Update.  Got the switches refined and working.  Also boosted the system pressure to 20psi and added a fourth air tank. I added a connection point to disconnect the air lines between floors, unfortunately  I forgot to take pictures of the way I did the air lines.

Originally I had borrowed the design ALCO had shared, however I could not get it to switch smoothly.  So I reworked it and came up with this:  (click for video)

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Heres a lil dissasembly to give you an Idea of how I did it.

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Update ... Controls built!

So my build time was mostly consumed by construction of the controls.

You'll notice there are only five controls instead of 7 ... to manually throw (via my attached cylinder) the decoupler and switch on my storage track for now and run air back to them late 'll

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I decided to Use a manifold to . disconnect for transport.

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The decoupling levers are on top the point levers are on the bottom

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This system is becoming quite impressive; running it should be quite enjoyable, and that switch tower hides everything in a very tidy way. Do you think you could add a few signals (moving-arm or colour-light) to control entrance and exit to the yard?

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8 hours ago, ColletArrow said:

This system is becoming quite impressive; running it should be quite enjoyable, and that switch tower hides everything in a very tidy way. Do you think you could add a few signals (moving-arm or colour-light) to control entrance and exit to the yard?

Thank you! Again if this goes well at the shows this year I would like to " finish out the scenery" and almost all would be hidden.  So right now we are talking about having it be an extention off the side of the rail yard to give more movement to it.  (Full layout is still in planning stages) however I built this to be a stand alone or you can rearrange the rear enterance (back half of the loop) to what ever layout we need.  I can even move everything to make it a stub yard with team track (since scenery is not finalized)

I've thought about signals In and Out of both ends of the yard however currently you need permission from the Yard Master before any movement is made.  There are a couple remote yards near me that operate this way.  Train stops at Yard Limit sign and radios for permission.  I wouldnt mind adding a low led ground light ... Perhaps tied to a simple on off switch where off is red on is green. . .   I will keep that in mind for sure!

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Update!

One car ... Half car ... Cut. Here you see the conductor radioing to the engineer in front of the new stop bumpers

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And yes they do stop a train car with speed.  And do fold up if hit full speed.  Of course your car will derail.

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The layout changed slightly I couldn't get three cars in the one siding so I had to reconfigure.

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Final detail parts are still trickling in but the cars are complete aside from the two tankers

In the video I dont have the air connected as I have to route lines

And I left the part where I try to run through the decoupler

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Update! Its fully functional!

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I ran out of air line so the storage siding is not plumbed but main layout is all plumbed!

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The controls in their raw form red levers are the decouplers ... Up for open down for closed.  Blue are the switches up for diverging down for thru

And without further delay ... Some operation.  The lego magnets are unreliable at best so it adds a bit more fiddling than I would like but it does make the puzzle have an extra challeging element.

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Excellent fun! A layout that works is so much more interesting than a plain circle, and even better when it's all "remotely" controlled. Are you shunting randomly, or trying to make a set train dictated by shuffled cards, dice etc?

If only someone could build a precise, powerful shunter... :grin: Seriously, I would recommend trying a loco (or at least a simple chassis to experiment) with a geartrain rather than the standard train motor; a much more realistic yard speed can be achieved, and with precise stopping control too. Either way, I look forward to seeing more of this layout.

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