Krischan1712

Support structure for cylinder

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Hi there,

I'm trying to build a moc, that requires a big cylinder in the center, something like this (diameter is 31 studs, length 44 studs, Stud.io file):

ZDp2pSP.png

Around it will just be some light decoration, but at the front and back of the cylinder it will be closed off, and there will be more (not too light) structures attached. Since the cylinder will be the central part of the moc, it needs to be sturdy enough to support the whole model when picked up. However I can't seem to find an interior, that would allow me to get this form, and that is also very study. Has anyone got any tips how to achieve this?

Best regards,
Christian

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There are too many unknowns to suggest an exact solution. Quick suggestion would be to base your structure on Technic 11x11 gear rack and work around it to make attachment points to your plates.

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You could also try looking at the various solutions for cylindrical towers, although sturdy is going to be a problem. Does it have to be perfectly cylindrical? As an alternative might be brick build SNOT, like a Lowell sphere.  Or just something like this (but cylindrical rather than spherical):

6823815914_aa2d75e602_b.jpg

 

Another non-purist solution would be to wrap some LEGO-compatible tape around a non-LEGO tube (drainpipe or whatever) and build off that.

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It would be easier if you could use 2-stud wide plates instead of 1 so you'd have half as many connection points to deal with.  I think the best way to go about this if you need rigidity is to have technic cross members that run from one outer face of the cylinder across the center to the opposite face, with all the cross members joined through the center in a spiral.  Even with 2-wide plates on the exterior you'll still need to have multiple connections for each cross member to fit them in with sufficient support, but it would be do-able.

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If 2xN plates instead of 1xN would suffice: maybe you could use Technic tread links, wound around 11x11 quarter gear racks?

So with 11x11 quarter gear racks, you build a 21x21 circle. Two of those circles create a cylinder of radius 10.5 and height 5. Between the rings you wind the large Technic tread links (these are also 5 studs long). I don't know if it fits nicely around the circle. (I hope so. Otherwise, maybe there's a trick to fill the gap some way.) Then, in the pinholes of the tread links, you put tan 3/4 pins, with beams on them. Then, in those beams you can push 2x2 plates with pins on the underside. That way you can have 2 rows of studs facing outwards, to which you can apply long 2xN plates.

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I know of a technique that lets you build curves (and cylinders) of fairly arbitrary radii (provided R is greater than about 7 studs) but it requires a butt-load of 1x2 palisade bricks and a minimum height of 3 bricks.  Basically it consists of making a zig-zag wall of 1x2 elements, where the missing corners of the palisade bricks allow the wall to flex "out of system" using the studs as pivot axles. (That sentence would make a lot more sense with an accompanying diagram but I don't happen to have one at the moment).

I used the technique on my Arrakis Sandworm a few years back:

17891474902_9d8b491560_b.jpg

I wasn't trying to skin the thing with plates, but I can very easily imagine using 1x2 w/2 studs or other SNOT bricks to add a "radial studs out" aspect to the basic design.

The disadvantages I see to this technique is that it is part-intensive (the worm pictured above took an entire KBox of 1x2 palisades and another of just regular 1x2 block (among other things)), it's really boring to build (tedious and repetitive), and you might need to skin it with 2x plates rather than narrower 1x to cover gaps in the underlying wall.  Still, if you're curious, let me know and I'll try to explain the technique in detail (I'm at the office at the moment and don't have the resources to pull together a tutorial here).

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hinges (of your choice) in a circle at both ends filled in sturdy enough to keep the round shape then attached to the plates.  Even 1x2s with round 1x1s or 1x3s with round 1x1s will work fine for the whole thing.  Just use snot bricks to get all the plates to stick to the interior, exterior, or both.  It will be very sturdy with solid ends

 

the smaller train tracks may be in the vicinity of 31 studs for end cap circles, but I doubt they are exactly 31?  

I think 1x2 snot bricks with the snots on both sides in conjunction with round 1x1s would be perfect with the ends filled in.  You can be pretty exact in your diameter that way

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19 hours ago, dr_spock said:

Those Technic gear racks and panels can make a pretty solid cylindrical structure.

While I very much appreciate the wit and creativity behind your LUG Bulk carrier, my first thoughts when I saw it went to a Spacing Guild Heighliner from Dune.  "The bricks must flow..."

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On 10/16/2018 at 12:44 PM, ShaydDeGrai said:

While I very much appreciate the wit and creativity behind your LUG Bulk carrier, my first thoughts when I saw it went to a Spacing Guild Heighliner from Dune.  "The bricks must flow..."

I've totally forgotten about Dune.  That was so long ago.  Yup, the bricks must flow.  :pir_laugh2:

On 10/17/2018 at 5:32 AM, MAB said:

Is this the prototype for a new online delivery service from replacement parts or online PAB?

 

Can be used for both.  The business goal is to increase profits through lower costs when revenue isn't increasing Y/Y.  Notice there is no geebling.  Geebling cost money.  :laugh:

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