duifkelego Posted September 30, 2018 (edited) Hi All , I want to start this one with thanking JopieK for his powered up tear down ! Without this info I would have had to do a lot more work before doing this. So instead of having a lazy sunday afternoon , I decided to take up one of the challenges TLG gave us with powered up. I'm in the proces of modifying a 60197 with longer bases and 7 cars at the moment. I wanted to power this beast with 2 motors so I could add even more cars in the future. So I took apart 2 PUP motors and removed the wiring from the PCB on the motor. I then soldered a piece of flatcable in place to get me through the base plate. I had to modify the base plate a little (...) to able to fit 1 motor as a jacobs bogie. Then i soldered the 2 flatcables to one of the removed motor cables , effectively switching both motors in parallel. In one of the motor assemblies I also turned the electrical motor around 180 degrees to get both motors rolling in the same direction. Some heavy mechanical modding had to be done to achieve this. I can probably find a better way if I put my mind to it. Anywayzz... without further ado, 2 pics of the result below and a WIP of the beast itself :) Have fun doing this for yourselves and don't hesitate to ask ! Edited September 30, 2018 by duifkelego Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dragunov2 Posted September 30, 2018 And they run both in same direction? Cause one engine is mirrored, no? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giottist Posted September 30, 2018 Thank you for sharing your solution Can you tell us, how well this works? I'm a little bit afraid the H-bridges in the hub are not strong enough for two motors at full load but of course this has to be tested. @ all other readers: Everything described here is on your own risk. Having experience in soldering thin wires is a really good idea! A short check with JopieKs images from the interior of the train motor shows, that it is riskless to switch two motors parallel, since ID pin 1 is connected to VCC and ID pin 2 to GND. The only effect to the hub will be a lower wire resistance for the two ID pins. It is no need to exchange the original wires with a 6 wire flat cable if the original cables are long enough. Ok, for more more lenght they are neccesary. Just cut both cables a few cm behind the plug, remove insulation for 4 to 5 mm, solder both cables wire by wire together and add on of the original plug. And be extremely careful not to turn one or more cable upside down, otherwise a short will be the result which can destroy the hub in milliseconds. If everything went well the gain is a spare plug for further use (Arduino, I'm calling ...) BTW, the plug ... Up to now I haven't found the type of the plug. Does anybody have further information what the hell the plug type is? Or is it a custom design for LEGO? 10 minutes ago, Dragunov2 said: And they run both in same direction? Cause one engine is mirrored, no? Uh oh, Please put both motors with the cable one to one parallel on the table when you solder them together: Wire No1 / motor 1 and wire No 1 / motor 2 to wire No 1 of the plug and so on. If you turn one motor by 180 degree you will change the enumeration of the wires a fatal short will be the result. The only way to change the motor direction is to exchange wire 1 with wire 2 in the motor housing as correctly described by duifkelego. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duifkelego Posted September 30, 2018 (edited) @Giottist Thanks for the addition ! I forgot all about that in my enthousiasm. Quite important info Track testing will be done this week Although I did already make a short movie. it's on bricksafe next to the pics in the first post https://bricksafe.com/files/duifkelego/DSC_0111.MOV I thought the same about the H-bridges but decided to take the risk and find out the hard way. The plug is lego proprietary design so probably we can't get it unassembled. there is a an entry for PF to PuP adapters on the s-brick site though so who knows... https://www.sbrick.com/store at the bottom. Dragunov2 I've phisically rotated the motor 180 degrees inside it's housing so I could keep the wiring the same. I had to hack some plastic out of the housing to do it . Giottist's solution can be done as well, I'll probably be eploring that opion too very soon! Edited September 30, 2018 by duifkelego Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giottist Posted September 30, 2018 2 hours ago, duifkelego said: there is a an entry for PF to PuP adapters on the s-brick site though so who knows... According to SBricks website we have wait until next march (hopefully ...) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
