Ivan_M

CADA battery with 4 motor outputs and remote control

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20200321_143948

550mah isn't much.

Anyone know just what type of battery that is? And what capacity you could get for a sensible investment?

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Does anybody know if it's possible to put 2 of those bricks in series to double the voltage?

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I think putting 14.8v into a 9v motor wouldn't end well if you did figure out one way to make that work.

The question you should rather ask is if anyone knows enough electronics to look at the MouldKing box shown above (it's taller and has some wasted space inside) and tell you if a 3S 11.1v lipo would melt any of its components. Buwizz 2 gives 11.1v, so I assume it has a 3S inside, but as you know by the price of it, the parts inside are simply better quality.

 

The other other question you should be asking, is if it's really a good idea. The cheap boxes have digital steering only: left, centre(ish) or right. That is barely enough control for the speeds you'll get with 7.4v. if you ramped that up to a higher voltage without improving steering control... Well, I can tell you from experience that it wouldn't be much fun to drive your creations.

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On 12/17/2019 at 1:23 AM, azimsu80 said:

Hai, first of all the battery box that all of you are referring to was not from CaDA, its from Mouldking brand. Please download the .apk file from the link below:

https://fir.im/kzae

Hope it helps.

Can You upload it again or send on email wykope@gmail.com

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Hi, my first cada battery is now broken. Only one port is working fully and one is working in only one direction. Did anyone succeeded in replacing the mx1616l chip ? I saw that mx1508 is more available. Could it be a viable option ? There's not any sign of defect when I open my battery box so it's not easy to guess what to try. Will probably go with buwizz but I would be happy to fix those, at least for children.

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On 10/10/2019 at 4:42 PM, roeleman said:

@ozacek

Thanks for the tip to switch directions, there wasn't a manual with the set that I bought.  So this is nice to know

@kbalage

I measured the output voltage of the mould king box and it was 8.2V.  My battery wasn't freshly charged so it's possibel it's 9V.  I can open my box and check the batteries.  But according me it's a 2S-lipo (you can see them through the holes) and maybe bumped up to 9V.

I didn't manage to download the app, as google play says my device is not compatible.  So if anyone can download it and share it with me, it's this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.qunyu.yuxing&hl=nl 

Mouldking android apk 1.6
https://imtt.dd.qq.com/16891/apk/67B13154CCDF3997223C38980B82FFA5.apk?fsname=com.qunyu.yuxing_1.5_6.apk&csr=1bbd
https://android.myapp.com/myapp/detail.htm?apkName=com.qunyu.yuxing&ADTAG=mobile

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On 5/2/2020 at 11:16 PM, fosamax said:

Hi, my first cada battery is now broken. Only one port is working fully and one is working in only one direction. Did anyone succeeded in replacing the mx1616l chip ? I saw that mx1508 is more available. Could it be a viable option ? There's not any sign of defect when I open my battery box so it's not easy to guess what to try. Will probably go with buwizz but I would be happy to fix those, at least for children.

Hello,

 

I had to change the motordrivers.  I didn't found the mx1616l but I did find the mx1616.  I replaced it and it worked, but I think I messed up my soldering because not all functions worked.  So I tried resoldering everything but I probably burnt something as my remote wouldn't connect with the box anymore.  So if you are good in soldering small stuff, it's worth trying.  Shame the CADA box is such a bad quality.  I had 2 of them and both are already dead.  You should expect more from a company that makes mostly RC stuff.

 

There is now another brand with a similar looking box like CADA, search for MOFUN on banggood.  It"s a Toyota Trueno, it has also a small motor to move the lights.  Maybe it's better then the Cada.

Edited by roeleman

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I had CaDA battery and hardware controller for 3/4 year before I destroyed it.

In general it can connect 4 motors and all working together, but you need to avoid changing direction in rapid manner.

I burned out it when using in my Trophy Truck moc in configuration with 2 buggy motors (actually cheaper china monster motors) and servo once rapidly reversing direction of a car.

Right now it is not working at all.

 

I bought 2 Buwizz batteries (for 4x the price of CaDA) but i'm really happy with it.

It can be used with BrickController2 app with hardware bluetooth controller, which was something I was looking for, because i hate operating mocs from mobile phone

 

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I'm planning to buy a buwizz to.  I always found it a pitty you have to control it with your mobile phone.  I hoped sometimes there would come a kit to rebuild a original lego remote to bleutooth.

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Even if you could do that, it would be a digital control which defeats the point of Buwizz.

 

Try BrickController2, you can use a PS4 controller for your buwizz.

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yes, that's why i didn't want to buy Buwizz at the beginning

I wanted hardware controller mainly for my children, even I don't like to controll it just on display on the phone without any harware feedback (buttons, joystick, etc.)

 

I'm using cheep android/ios bluetooth controller by ipega

http://ipega.hk/gamehandle.html

Edited by ace_klimax

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1 hour ago, amorti said:

Even if you could do that, it would be a digital control which defeats the point of Buwizz.

 

I meant a complete kit with a new pcb with analogue control and bluetooth.

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31 minutes ago, roeleman said:

I meant a complete kit with a new pcb with analogue control and bluetooth.

They make those, it's called a PS/xbox controller ;)

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46 minutes ago, JoshsTechnicWorkshop said:

Had anyone tried to connect the CaDa Servo to Sbricks/Buwizz? If so do they have fully proportional controls?

No,  its full left or full right.  Nothing in between.

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3 hours ago, amorti said:

They make those, it's called a PS/xbox controller ;)

Problem is, there needs to be a smartphone in-between, not plug'n'play. Which is a major turndown for me and the reason I've not bought a Ble-controller for my Buwizz. CADA seems to have made a controller, but it's just a dumb on-off one which isn't optimal either unless it's for slow working functions.

Edited by syclone

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Guys, the cada power supply fails when overloaded, as buwizz goes into defense. But cada, unlike buwizz, does not return to normal operation after that, it stops responding to some of the buttons on the remote control. Empirically found a way to restore it - you just need to reboot it. True, for this you need to disassemble it, and solder the power wires from the board, and immediately solder it back. How to de-energize for a short while. After he begins to work like new. I did this repeatedly with my unit, I came to the conclusion that you should not use it without a differential.

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I'm in the process of trying to fix one of mine. There's no sign of burned component in mine so your fix could apply. Anyway I don't understand what you've done. Could you please explain a bit more or post photos (hosted at bricksafe or flickr) of your fix ?

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If I understood correctly, he de-soldered one of the wires going from the battery to the main board to fully power it down, then soldered it again to restore power. A kind of very hard reboot.

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1 hour ago, dnsrsv said:

Guys, the cada power supply fails when overloaded, as buwizz goes into defense. But cada, unlike buwizz, does not return to normal operation after that, it stops responding to some of the buttons on the remote control. Empirically found a way to restore it - you just need to reboot it. True, for this you need to disassemble it, and solder the power wires from the board, and immediately solder it back. How to de-energize for a short while. After he begins to work like new. I did this repeatedly with my unit, I came to the conclusion that you should not use it without a differential.

This gives me hope, based on this comment i decided to open battery.

After unscrewing all 4 screws i had to depart light and dark grey part, that were tightly glued together.

Insides looks without burn or anything bad, so i'll try to solder one of battery wires from mainboard.

If i'll solve the issue i woud think, for the future, to implement there some small switch accessible from outside of the box, ideally in the top center space

 

let's see

 

drsrvs thanks for sharing your workaround

 

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While we're busy not discussing knock-off brands but only their PF parts...

Mould King (yes, they publish stolen MOCs, yes I know that's bad) has released a revised set of PF motors with translucent dark orange front covers.

20200527_232334.jpg

The servos are still the usual Chinese junk which only does left/right/middle-ish (they overshoot the middle each time they return). But I will say the motors in them are powerful, noticeably stronger than Lego servos.

I've unscientifically tested the L-motors which are both noticeably faster, and noticeably more powerful than those from Lego. If you put Lego motors on buwizz Fast mode, it's still not quite as fast as these Chinese motors in Normal mode, and the Lego motors will still stall easier.

The consequence of course is they must be using more amps. You can tell this as it's much easier trip the buwizz protection in ludicrous mode with these motors, than with Lego's motors. You can also much quicker find the weakest link in your drive train...

Mould King also recently released a model (yes, it's a stolen MOC, yes I know that's bad) with L-motors which can allegedly spin at 1,200rpm, which is about the same as the slow output of a buggy motor.

I doubt any purist will be interested, but I bet there are MOCs out there which would benefit from more powerful motors.

If anyone out there has the facility to do a proper test, I'd happily send out one of the new orange L-motors and wouldn't be too bothered if the testing killed it.

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I furthered tested mine (didn't received the motor driver yet) and for sure the failure is only partial. I tested it by pluging a lego receiver on it and 3 of the ports are supplying power, even those that don't work when pluging a motor directly. I have one that doesn't work that way either.

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1 hour ago, amorti said:

While we're busy not discussing knock-off brands but only their PF parts...

In this case Mould King has also these "Black Furious Hyper speed motor"

.522790670_HyperspeedL-motor.jpg.8eb8fa408c38d2e1299df4bf1b43b514.jpg

and a Black 10.4V control brick controlled only by app

1868255516_MouldKing10_4V.jpg.74197a798aa46753cd9d1ed807cde60f.jpg

 

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I have discovered that plugging in a lego buggy motor into the cada battery box is a very bad idea.  The box is dead.

Speaking of buggy motors, the Chinese are now making copies of buggy motors (the only difference is that there is a cable that ends with a PF standard interface).  They are fast and drain batteries like there is no tomorrow.  I have gotten two off ebay for about $US 15 each. I wonder if the same or similar motor is in the Mould King L-motors.

 

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