So I cut my first piece of Lego track, mixed results.

[LegoDW]

Hi.  Thought I would share.  Have a Lego train layout and the switches (turnouts) that come back on themselves (passing sidings) just really don't work in my layout.  So last weekend I got brave and cut my first one.  Results were ok, not the best.  First, I cut it to too long, had to recut the switch.  Second, I used a hack saw, took a lot of material in the cut.  Third, I didn't have any fine sand paper so was unable to clean up the edges.  I had to cut a curved section of track also to get the correct orientation on the switch.

Results, even though the gap in the rails is big to me, the trains have no issues.  Gap is about as large as the ones present on the flex track.  Placed a 2x4 gray plate on the cut switch and track to hold them together.  Had to break off one the outer sleepers (rail supports...has a stud on it) to get around the large plastic support section of the switch. Next time may cut a little bit more of this out (from the switch).

Planning on cutting a few more switches in the future, but will not cut them all.  In some locations (passing sidings, yard, etc) is preferred.  Going to experiment with a hot blade to try melting the track vs cutting. Not crazy about inhaling the plastic fibers when cutting.  

 

[pirzyk]

Pics?  I use a sharp utility knife when cutting tracks, it provides a clearner edge.  I am not sure how the plastic fumes from using a hot blade are compared to the plastic fibers.

[1963maniac]

Yes, I use a 3/4 x1 1/2 inch. You can use them to trim when done cutting. I've rearranged all my switches. I've even made my own double crossover. Works great, looks good and is MUCH cheaper.

[LegoDW]

21 minutes ago, pirzyk said:

Pics?  I use a sharp utility knife when cutting tracks, it provides a clearner edge.  I am not sure how the plastic fumes from using a hot blade are compared to the plastic fibers.

Yes, was thinking about heating up a utility blade for the cut/burn.  Thinking might be better option.

22 minutes ago, 1963maniac said:

Yes, I use a 3/4 x1 1/2 inch. You can use them to trim when done cutting. I've rearranged all my switches. I've even made my own double crossover. Works great, looks good and is MUCH cheaper.

I thought about modifying all mine too.  My problem is I keep changing the actual layout.  Some locations the standard switch configuration works best.  A double crossover would be nice.

[Toastie]

Don't worry about the fumes; ABS thermolysis products won't kill you, even not harm you; given the amount of time (i.e., dose) you are exposed. Much worse is any workout run close to a car-populated street. But the amount of ABS melting material building up upon using heat is considerable and this is hard to estimate.

I am using the sharp and very thin Dremel type saw blades. When you go full speed on the Dremel, it is more a thermal thing; when you use moderate blade turning speeds, it is more like cutting - with only the width of the blade eroding away material. Which is really minor.

As my father used to say: It's a knife, not a pusher (oh my, translated from German, dose not work) ...

All the best,
Thorsten

 

  

[pirzyk]

3 hours ago, 1963maniac said:

Yes, I use a 3/4 x1 1/2 inch. You can use them to trim when done cutting. I've rearranged all my switches. I've even made my own double crossover. Works great, looks good and is MUCH cheaper.

Also probably doesn't have the fatal flaw of the Double Crossover (can't run it in a non crossing mode for the same direction).

[sed6]

Buy a Zona saw from the hobby store. It's just a thin hobby saw that you can use with the large x-acto handles. Here's a pic of how I did mine. 

 

[CaL]

If you have come so far as to start cutting tracks and switches, why don’t you just take a look at 3-D printed track pieces??? For Europe I can recommend TrixBrix.eu, if you are from the US take a look at the offerings of 4DBrix.com.

[dr_spock]

There is something satisfying about kitbashing versus buying ready-to-run. 

 

[sed6]

2 hours ago, CaL said:

If you have come so far as to start cutting tracks and switches, why don’t you just take a look at 3-D printed track pieces??? For Europe I can recommend TrixBrix.eu, if you are from the US take a look at the offerings of 4DBrix.com.

Because cutting track is free! Plus I can get exactly the size track I want. Plus I hear the 3D printed stuff doesn't hold up as well as injection molded. And like @dr_spock said, kitbashing is satisfying.

 

[Chiaroscuro]

This issue is huge and I don’t know why LEGO hasn’t come with more track options or a more flexible solution. The current tracks hardly works in any layout, took too much space to do the basics of things. I am starting to plan a layout for myself but wanted it pure LEGO without modifications, but it seems impossible.

[sed6]

3 hours ago, Chiaroscuro said:

This issue is huge and I don’t know why LEGO hasn’t come with more track options or a more flexible solution. The current tracks hardly works in any layout, took too much space to do the basics of things. I am starting to plan a layout for myself but wanted it pure LEGO without modifications, but it seems impossible.

It's really just the switches that need modification (plus the cut in half curve track). My mods pictured about allow for a crossover that maintains the standard 8 stud spacing between the tracks or a constant radius curve on the switch. Just those two additions expand your layout possibilities ten fold, maybe one hundred fold!