[GBC] Akiyuki Train System: Type 2 mods and improvements

[Great Ball Pit]

Thank you for the updates to the turntable @Doug72 I appreciate it!

[doug72]

6 hours ago, Great Ball Pit said:

Thank you for the updates to the turntable @Doug72 I appreciate it!

Which version will you use, worm or belt driven ?

Look forward to seeing your set up in action.

[Great Ball Pit]

8 hours ago, Doug72 said:

Which version will you use, worm or belt driven ?

Look forward to seeing your set up in action.

I've actually taken what you've done a bit farther and it's much faster then even the 2nd and 3rd iteration you did.  I will post a video clip much later tonight when I can build a second copy.

[doug72]

22 minutes ago, Great Ball Pit said:

I've actually taken what you've done a bit farther and it's much faster then even the 2nd and 3rd iteration you did.  I will post a video clip much later tonight when I can build a second copy.

Think I know how you did it.
We will have to call this the Supersonic version !!
I timed it at 2 secs per 180º turn.

Fit a propellor and it could be entered into the TC 15 contest !

[Berthil]

4 hours ago, Doug72 said:

Fit a propellor and it could be entered into the TC 15 contest !

And some wings :)
Looking forward to the video, also without wings and propeller :)

[Great Ball Pit]

Here's a quick gif showing the speed. I'll do a video soon and can post some close up pics tonight.

https://imgur.com/gallery/F72gPXu

[MajklSpajkl]

@Great Ball Pit Wow, that is excelent speed! Well done. How reliable is it?

[doug72]

2 hours ago, MajklSpajkl said:

@Great Ball Pit Wow, that is excelent speed! Well done. How reliable is it?

Not sure how @Great Ball Pit has done this but I have modified both my T/Ts to get same speed and proved reliable.

I'll let @Great Ball Pit post his video first as it seems diffferent to my rendition.

Credit to @Jonas for the original T/T idea.

 

Edited December 20, 2018 by Doug72

[Great Ball Pit]

Mine is 15 minutes reliable. Didn't run it longer then that.  Here's some closer images to how I achieved it.

 

[doug72]

2 hours ago, Great Ball Pit said:

Mine is 15 minutes reliable. Didn't run it longer then that.  Here's some closer images to how I achieved it.

Looking at the GIF I thought you had used a gear solution and I like your use of a pin/ball instead of blue axle /pin is better for the stopper.
The advantage of a geared system is it is not easy to accidently knock the  T/T out of alignment by external force.

I tried to use a gear solition but couldn't get it to fit, the back to back frames work well.
So instead I just used a second large wedge pully with a ordinary rubber band for the longer belt drive, to give the required 1:1 drive.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Also I have made a small change which improves the track alignment between the turntable and exit track.

(LEGO Rim Narrow Ø18 x 7 and Pin Hole with Shallow Spokes (13971 / 56902) changed for a small wheel with groove and rubber tire (LEGO Wheel Hub Ø11.2 x 8 with Centre Groove (42610)

 

Has also been tested when loaded with 30 balls.

Edited December 20, 2018 by Doug72

[dunes]

excellent solution and the movement in the video looks like its on 2x times speed

[doug72]

15 hours ago, dunes said:

excellent solution and the movement in the video looks like its on 2x times speed

It takes approx 2 secs to rotate 180º.
 Rotation seems a lot smoother than the worm drive version.

Now tested both versions (Geared & Rubber band) back to back and the geared version is slightly faster than the belt driven version, probably due to belt slipping.

Edited December 21, 2018 by Doug72

[Great Ball Pit]

I've had to make even more changes since switching to a new motor. The speed was a bit much and it would jump off before full rotation.  Added rubber to the stopper and changed out the end of the hanging liftarms.

 

 

 

[doug72]

After further prolonged testing of both versions back to back your geared version is more reliable and never failed even with a full load

The belt seems to snatch as the train engages with the 24T drive gear, causing the rubber band to stretch & then recover causing a jolt which throws the train off.
Probably OK at the slower speed.

Edited December 20, 2018 by Doug72

[Great Ball Pit]

 

[Berthil]

Seems to work well, good job. Having no switch make me curious how you will load and unload the train. Especially unload because loading can be done with the 'Train Through Unit' on a train with no switch.
Small tip. It's better to remove that axle connector and the bottom and use a 9L axle. The connector touches something there.

[doug72]

Good video & explanation. If you want to slow the turntables down a little  bit, change the gear ratio on the axle that drives the turntable 12T gear to 12:20 step down to give approx 3 secs, per reversal. Now tested with revised gear ratio and works well & smooth rotation.

Re Train car:
Note you have the 3 part axle between the wheel axles, changing it to a 9L axle reduces friction. ( just seen @Berthil reply re 9L axle and no reversing switch )
Also like the mounting pins for the battery box, always find it a fiddle when changing batteries, will see if can be done on the standard train with reversing switch.

How will this be used for your display ?

I find it very satifying how GBC modules evolve with ideas from contributers.

 

Edited December 21, 2018 by Doug72

[doug72]

To avoid using two LEGO Beam 3m Ø4.85 with fork (87408) due to limited stock I have devised an alternative solution using double bevel gears - see images.
The gear train gives 3 sec rotation. Both my T/Ts converted and working smoothly.

Edited December 22, 2018 by Doug72
Updated 13th Dec. 2018

[Frequenzberater]

I have some trouble with the passing between rail and reverser module. Train frequently derails especially after reversing and driving back to the rail. 

Can you guys please have a look if you can spot something wrong? 

One note:

I added a 1x2 plate below the grey tiles on both sides in order to adjust the heights, but it seems that there is no positive effect:

 

[Berthil]

Mostly this is caused by wrongly positioned gear rack causing the 8t gear to walk 'over' the gear rack tilting the whole train but your gear rack is in the right position

You might however want to remove the yellow guide or make it higher, I think the 8t gears on the train axle ends may be climb up the yellow beam.

The extra plate is okay and helps smoother entry and exit.

[doug72]

9 hours ago, Frequenzberater said:

I have some trouble with the passing between rail and reverser module. Train frequently derails especially after reversing and driving back to the rail. 

Can you guys please have a look if you can spot something wrong? 

One note:

I added a 1x2 plate below the grey tiles on both sides in order to adjust the heights, but it seems that there is no positive effect:

 

I use to have this problem but solved it using two of these, LEGO Beam 4 with Ball Cup Socket (15459 / 31794)

I found the stepped arrangement of the stacked thin beams allowed the wheels to drop into the gap.

Os train exits the beam4 with cup supports the rear of the  train until the rear train wheels are over the end of the track.

The front of the train rides up over the rounded ends better than the stepped arrangement.

Edited January 4, 2019 by Doug72

[Frequenzberater]

Thank you guys. I will test it today evening and provide some feedback 

[doug72]

9 minutes ago, Frequenzberater said:

Thank you guys. I will test it today evening and provide some feedback 

If you haven't got those parts, use two 5L beams instead of the thin beams.

[Frequenzberater]

Thanks, but Iam sure I will find some of them in my collection :) 

[Frequenzberater]

One can rely on this forum. Works like a charm now. Thanks! 

Next stop: Lift + Rotary dumper