Dragunov2 Posted October 29, 2018 Where do I find those info? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jetro Posted October 29, 2018 30 minutes ago, Dragunov2 said: Where do I find those info? You can find them on Bricklink.com searching by the references provided ;) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
viktor_kovacs Posted November 15, 2018 Just a bit of info and a quick video for those who are looking for a simple way to motorize a train with powered up and two train motors. You can reverse one of the motors (the howto is here: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/168162-changing-the-polarity-of-powered-up-train-motors), then connect two hubs to the same controller using the same output on both. This will have the same effect as using a single power functions receiver and a polarity switch on one of the motors. The two other outputs remain free for connecting two pu leds or any other extra function. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttvHU3NpndU ps: I think the speed control bug mentioned above is based on the motor type detection and if the motor is plugged in during startup and the order of startup for the hubs, which means modifying the wiring of the two id pins could allow to mod a train motor to be a two speed hold to run and the non feedback pu motor to be speed controllable like the train motor. I'll try to test this and the leds for adding polarity based control as soon as i get some. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
guilhermelimait Posted November 20, 2018 Hi all, I know that you have heavily discussed about the similarities between the PUP, Boost and the wedo 2.0. But I'm still confused about their usage. As they have the same kind of connector, they are all compatible, but is it possible to use the remote control from the PUP on the wedo 2.0? or use the wedo 2 motor/sensors on the PUP hub? control the PUP using programmable LEGO app? I'm from Brazil btw and am looking to buy all of them to test and create new ideas to be used during our expositions, your replies will be very good to check if I'm doing the right purchases over here. Thank you in advance! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
technic70s Posted November 22, 2018 I was poking around in the Bricks & Pieces site the other day and found that the Hub #4 is available, Element 6262033 Design number 28738 Unit Price AUD $63.71 Good to see it available, but seems expensive when I can pick up the Passenger Train 60197 for as low as AUD $119 on special and get the hub, motor and controller plus a heap of other parts Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giottist Posted November 22, 2018 It seems we have to be patient. In an interview with zusammengebaut.de LEGO promised to offer PUP parts in early 2019. I trust LEGO because the PUP lights 88005 are available in the official store. You can find it there with the search function, not directly. Everything dealing with PUP seems unfinished, I for myself do nothing until LEGO offers us a full spectrum of PUP parts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AVCampos Posted November 22, 2018 2 minutes ago, Giottist said: I for myself do nothing until LEGO offers us a full spectrum of PUP parts. It seems that's the general feeling, given how cheap current PUp hubs are currently on BrickLink (which tends to price stuff based on supply and demand). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
viktor_kovacs Posted November 23, 2018 A bit more hacking, this time the new Powered Up M motor (or what it's called). I changed the ID of the motor to the train motor by disconnecting the absolutely tiny 2.2k pulldown resistor in the middle just north of the number 4 (i just turned it out of the way, didn't fully remove it) and bridging pins 4 and 5. A bit of extra info about the pins first: -pin 1: motor 1 -pin 2: motor 2 -pin 3: ground -pin 4: 3.3V logic power -pin 5: id1 -pin 6: id2 And the ID pin connections for what i gathered from various forums: -train motor: id1 to 3.3V, id2 to ground -medium motor: id1 2.2k to ground, id2 to ground -leds (unchecked): id1 2.2k to ground, id2 unconnected These hacks are not that nice, but allow modified (useful) operation without hacking the software of the hubs or the remote or using a phone or other computer to control the hubs. Also they are easily doable and look pretty much reversible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tcm0 Posted November 24, 2018 Regarding the avaiblility of PUP parts: you can get the M-Motor from lego education retailers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tecnomod Posted November 25, 2018 On 23/11/2018 at 02:05, viktor_kovacs said: Un po 'più hacking, questa volta il nuovo motore Powered Up M (o come si chiama). Ho cambiato l'ID del motore al motore del treno scollegando il minuscolo resistore pulldown 2.2k nel centro appena a nord del numero 4 (l'ho appena tolto, non lo ho rimosso completamente) e i pin di collegamento 4 e 5. Un po 'di informazioni extra sui pin prima: -pin 1: motor 1 -pin 2: motor 2pin 3: ground -pin 4: 3.3V logic power -pin 5: id1 -pin 6: id2 E le connessioni pin ID per quello che ho raccolto da vari forum: -train motor: id1 a 3.3V, id2 a terra -medium motore: id1 2.2k a terra, id2 a terra (deselezionata): id1 2.2k a terra, id2 non connesso Questi hack non sono così belli, ma consentono operazioni modificate (utili) senza l'hacking del software degli hub o del telecomando o utilizzando un telefono o un altro computer per controllare gli hub. Inoltre sono facilmente fattibili e sembrano quasi reversibili. good work Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
viktor_kovacs Posted December 1, 2018 Just a quick remark, it looks like 3x2 pin IDC connectors might fit the PU ribbon cables. These are small 6 pin variants of the old PATA connectors and you can even fit many of them on a single cable. This could allow a rasterboard compatible non lego connector to be added while keeping the PU plug on the end. Then a small circut board could be added as a passive distribution box to connect for example two train motors and multiple led lights to a single HUB port. As long as only pins 1 and pins 2 are connected on the board and the same type of passive part is connected to it (like train motors * 2 or led lights *2-8) it should work. Intelligent parts, like servos and sensors will not work. The strip could have diodes and other parts to make the added leds intelligent, like lighting up only with one polarity. Plugging in more than one PU plug from this paralleled bunch will probably kill both HUBs or both ports on the same HUB though, so it's not a safe hack, but at least allow the same basic functionality what PF v1 had with the stackable connectors. (including the clever way to fry an IR receiver, a WEDO 1 or the WEDO sensors by using some extension cables wrong) On the other hand, a PU socket using distribution strip connecting only the first four pins would be neat. (with the 1st socket as full passthrough for the IDs to work) ps: Took apart a PU HUB without desoldering anything, the circuit just slides out if you push in the battery tabs. The motor driver double H bridge is on the bottom. It's an LB1836, a nice big chip, but really good for only one motor per output. For two train motors, using both outputs or more than one HUB is a good idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_spock Posted December 2, 2018 10 hours ago, viktor_kovacs said: ps: Took apart a PU HUB without desoldering anything, the circuit just slides out if you push in the battery tabs. The motor driver double H bridge is on the bottom. It's an LB1836, a nice big chip, but really good for only one motor per output. For two train motors, using both outputs or more than one HUB is a good idea. Is it 500 mA that the LB1836 can run continuously at without overheating? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Giottist Posted December 2, 2018 16 hours ago, viktor_kovacs said: .. The motor driver double H bridge is on the bottom. It's an LB1836, a nice big chip, but really good for only one motor per output. Ah, thank you for the valuable hint. I've found the datasheet for the device: It is able to handle 1A with a max. power dissipation of 800 mW. Thats sufficient to run hard loads. The limiting factor is the battery capacity. Triple A cells have only about 500 mAh, same LiIon Packs in 6F22 packs. Using a hub for every motor is a good idea to have enogh battery power. It seems easy to connect two hubs with one app or controller. Since hubs beome available on Bricklink for affordable prices there is no urgent need for modifications. Btw, I got the lights 88005 direct from the lego online shop: The recent version of the powered up app switches them to full brightness if the motor turns in any direction with any speed -> very comfortable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vilhelm22 Posted December 5, 2018 (edited) The powered up parts have been announced as individual sets on Brickset. However, the motor is a different one with far more studs and four pin holes. Edited December 8, 2018 by Vilhelm22 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AVCampos Posted December 5, 2018 You mean the 88008? It's not the "M motor" as used in WeDo 2.0 and the Batmobile, but rather the servo used in Boost. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Hobbles Posted December 5, 2018 It's interesting that they've released the Boost Move Hub seperately. I wonder if there'll be a firmware update that makes it compatible with the Remote Control. Also, I hope they've fixed that bug with the normal Hub that causes it to crash when two Boost Interactive Motors are plugged in. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AVCampos Posted December 5, 2018 Both the Boost and PUp hubs have upgradeable firmware, so that's a possibility. The WeDo 2.0 hub doesn't. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Hobbles Posted December 5, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, AVCampos said: Both the Boost and PUp hubs have upgradeable firmware, so that's a possibility. The WeDo 2.0 hub doesn't. It actually does, LEGO has constantly released new firmware for it through the WeDo 2.0 apps. I think the crux of the problem though is that it functions so very differently from the Boost Move Hub and PUP Hub. The Bluetooth protocol is totally different. To make it compatible would not only require a new firmware, but changing all the WeDo 2.0 software out there to make it compatible with a WeDo 2.0 Hub with updated firmware. It would be a LOT of effort for them, so I understand them not wanting to do it. Edited December 5, 2018 by Mr Hobbles Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jetro Posted December 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Mr Hobbles said: LEGO has constantly released new firmware for it through the WeDo 2.0 apps I haven't been able to trace a single instance of this. Where does this information come from? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Hobbles Posted December 6, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Jetro said: I haven't been able to trace a single instance of this. Where does this information come from? My own WeDo 2.0 hubs that have updated (quite a few times) in the past from my Windows 10 app. Edited December 6, 2018 by Mr Hobbles Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
treczoks Posted December 7, 2018 (edited) Hi! I'm new here - I actually just joined to participate in this thread - and I'm having some problems with my attempts to connect to the PUP devices. I want to automate our track layout and train controls, so I thought about the following setup: A Raspberry Pi with a BT dongle talks to the trains, the switch motors and the remotes. Some features of the software would be to automatically connect everything automatically by knowing all involved MAC addresses, limit a trains' speed so it will not fly off the track, run two motors from one remote, or, to be more precise, run both trains from the "train remote", while the "switch remotes" run the switches. Now despite following this thread and reading other sources of documentation, I still cannot properly communicate with the remote control. Maybe someone here can tell me which kind of stupid mistake I made... #!/bin/bash gatttool -b 00:81:f9:e4:b2:0d --char-write-req --handle=0x0f --value=0100 gatttool -b 00:81:f9:e4:b2:0d --char-write-req --handle=0x0e --value=0a00400000100000001 --listen I expected this "test balloon" to give me some readings, but I get the message "invalid handle" on both. Nonetheless, the LED on the remote indicates that it is connected until I end the gatttool. I got the strings for "value" from some posts in this thread, but they didn't mention which handle to use - that I copied off BoostRevenge, but obwiously I didn't do it correctly. So which channels would I need to address to be able to read the buttons on the PUB remote controller, or did I do something fundamentally wrong? EDIT: I think I got it... I made two mistakes: a) I had the wrong handles, and b) my value was lacking a digit. After some research I am now here: #!/bin/bash gatttool -b 00:81:f9:e4:b2:0d --char-write-req --handle=0x0c --value=0100 gatttool -b 00:81:f9:e4:b2:0d --char-write-req --handle=0x0b --value=0a004100000100000001 gatttool -b 00:81:f9:e4:b2:0d --char-write-req --handle=0x0b --value=0a004101000100000001 --listen The first gatttool call enables notifications, the second enables the left keys, the third one the right keys. This gives me results like: Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 00 ff Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 00 00 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 00 7f Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 00 00 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 00 01 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 00 00 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 01 01 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 01 00 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 01 7f Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 01 00 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 01 ff Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 01 7f Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 45 01 00 05 00 45 <PORT> <VALUE> PORT 00 Left keys, PORT 01 Right keys VALUE 00 No Key, VALUE 01 Plus Key, VALUE 7F Red Key, Value FF Minus Key It also gives me a Notification handle = 0x000b value: 0a 00 47 01 00 01 00 00 00 01 which I have not yet understood. Edited December 7, 2018 by treczoks Found the solution myself! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
treczoks Posted December 8, 2018 I learned some more about the Train Handheld! When you enable notifications gatttool -b 00:81:f9:e4:b2:0d --char-write-req --handle=0x0c --value=0100 --listen you will be informed about the Green Button on the handheld, too! Press Green Button: Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 08 02 01 Release Green Button: Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 08 02 00 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 04 00 08 03 Press and hold Green Button: Notification handle = 0x000b value: 05 00 08 02 01 Notification handle = 0x000b value: 04 00 02 30 The first message comes when the Green Button is pressed, the second when the handheld switches off after a few seconds Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vilhelm22 Posted December 8, 2018 Why is 88009 Hub more expensive than the PF rechargeable hub? I have no knowledge of this hub having a recharge function - why is it so expensive? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AVCampos Posted December 8, 2018 Because it's new, and has the Bluetooth controller. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vilhelm22 Posted December 8, 2018 5 hours ago, AVCampos said: Because it's new, and has the Bluetooth controller. Yes, but did the old pf stuff decrease in price at all over time? Does it being new make a difference? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
