Didumos69

42083 Bugatti Chiron - MODs and Improvements

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On 6/17/2018 at 4:39 PM, jb70 said:

You like to pimp up your Bugatti with this new gearbox?

Here are the building instructions: Chassis+Gearbox.pdf

And a 3D-model as LDR: Chassis+Gearbox.ldr

jb70, I was wondering where the yellow extention ring goes? Is there a reverse gear in there? I have not seen the instructions from TLG, so I was wondering is it somewhere else in the model?

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13 hours ago, 1963maniac said:

jb70, I was wondering where the yellow extention ring goes? Is there a reverse gear in there? I have not seen the instructions from TLG, so I was wondering is it somewhere else in the model?

In the original the yellow extension ring is used for one of the speeds in the 4-speed half of the gearbox, not for reverse. In the mod the extension is not needed.

7 hours ago, jono rocky said:

jb70, whats the difference to the bugatti gearbox and this one?

It’s more simple and it has a 8<->1 gearblock. It uses 2 gear meshes less for each speed.

Edited by Didumos69

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On 6/1/2018 at 7:36 AM, SNIPE said:

I plan to first have an openable engine cover.

I have a bad habit of getting to excited and wanting to do too much.

Therefore making it too hard on myself to implement.

So I am sticking to one thing at a time.

Actually on the real car there is no engine cover you have to take the entire rear of the car off to access the engine.

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On 6/1/2018 at 8:33 AM, SheldonF said:

I want to find a way to put a nice largo window/glass piece above the engine. Purely aesthetics. 

I know it’s all personal preference but if your trying to go by realism the real car has no cover over the engine. It’s open to allow for better cooling

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A quick & simple RC mod of the car with 2 L motors, a Servo and a BuWizz unit. 

The aim was to change as little as possible. To find some place for the L motors I removed the original engine and replaced it with @Didumos69's amazing compact W16. The Servo was an easy fit, I just had to sacrifice the luggage space. The most straightforward location of the BuWizz unit was the driver's seat, so he became the owner of the car :) The L motors are driving the wheels directly through the rear differential, so the gearbox only changes the speed of the fake engine. More pics & details in my blog post.

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I could only have hoped to see my engine end up in a 'real' Bugatti 👍! Thanks! Driving the diffs directly is the right approach I think. All 8 speeds make sense this way.

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@kbalage lovely job! can't wait to receive mine and stuff it with buggy motors to make it fly!

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Thanks guys!

@Didumos69 without your engine I could not have done this mod, there's really not much space in the car by default.

@Marxpek good luck with that, you'll have some work to do :) To fit the buggy motors I think you'll have to sacrifice the 4WD drivetrain and the complete gearbox. To be honest I tested the car with 2 buggy motors mounted to the rear diff and they were suffering, so you'll need either to gear them down significantly or add a new more simple gearbox to help the acceleration.

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Has anyone worked out a easy way to get under the bodywork to the gears and stuff?

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On 6/17/2018 at 11:43 PM, ttoobbyy said:

An idea about the gear indicator. Concern about there barely have no space in the back of the bugatti. I decided to place the indicator in front of the car. The basic idea is to let the movement for the yellow gear directly transfer to the Passenger seat.

@ttoobbyy, great idea to transfer the gear indicator to the side of the passenger seat. There is pretty much space left to add some gears. And also you found a perfect place for the gear indicator through the hole of the panel in the windcreen.

This is my MOD of your idea:

800x600.jpg800x600.jpg

 

I think it looks pretty well and does not disturb the beauty of the car. And it looks nice next to my HOG steering wheel.

And the clou is: 

  • This is not only a gear indicator
  • It also works perfectly as a HOG gear switch, so it is no longer a pain to reach those paddles beneath the steering wheel.
  • The HOG gear switch rotates about 240° to switch through all the 8 gears
  • It is easy to operate with less power and clearly rests in each gear position

 

Edited by jb70

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On 6/7/2018 at 4:28 PM, Didumos69 said:

Here is my attempt at a modified front suspension with 6L suspension arms instead of 5L. This should add 20% strength to the suspension and it should be less sloppy as well. It uses CV-joints as a replacement for the original U-joints. No friction pins for moving parts. If it's not strong enough, the suspension arms could be extended to 7L in the same way, but that would require a lot more tweaking to the front part of the chassis. I think it should fit as is, but I'm not 100% sure, because I don't have the physical build. I did check al kinds of images though and I'm sure it doesn't collide with the paddle shifter unit. Travel is not much, about 2/3 of a stud, but if it's strong enough I think it's good. Perhaps someone could test this?

@Didumos69, Great Work again!

I have build and tested your front suspension MOD. It works perfectly, when built into the complete car. There is no more lag! And the suspension is stiff enough with 6L suspension arms. It should even carry some extra weight from additional MODs.

It only needed one minor change to fit into the car: The blue 3L pins that hold the 4 gray 3x5 liftarms, need to be moved to the outside to open a hole for later building steps.

Quote

The only thing I'm not completely happy with is the rigidity of the bent liftarms sticking the top. Will see if I can improve that.

And I found a solution for a better rigidity of these liftarms. This way they fit to the 15L beam which will later be added on top. This adds more rigidity to the liftarms and the complete front axle.

42083%20-%20Front.png

LXF-file here.

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@jb70, great to see this being implemented and being improved 👍! I'm glad to have contributed.

Btw, few days ago I ran through your instructions for the simplified gearbox and I came to realize that it would be nice to also point.out in the instructions that one could consider changing the gearing at the front of the engine to a 16-16 mesh in order to establish an engine-axles ratio that is similar to the original.

Edited by Didumos69

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7 minutes ago, Didumos69 said:

Btw, few days ago I ran through your instructions for the simplified gearbox and I came to realize that it would be nice to also point.out in the instructions that one could consider changing the gearing at the front of the engine to a 16-16 mesh in order to establish an engine-axles ratio that is similar to the original.

Well, indeed I tried both configurations 20-12 and 16-16. Both are running very well with less friction. So you may upgear the Bugatti with 20-12, if you like. 

I compared it to the Pimp-up-my-Porsche (and I guess, it was upgeared, too, after implementing your gearbox optimization). With 16-16 the Bugatti runs about twice the distance of the Porsche with the same revolutions of the engine (both in 1st gear or in max gear). And now it get's academic :wink:: For max gear that may be realistic, because the Bugatti should reach 420 km/h at 6000 rpm, compared to the Porsche with 310 km/h at 8.200 rpm.

But I personally will keep the upgeared version with 20-12. It runs fluently in each gear, is comparable with the Porsche and reduces the lag between forward an backwards.

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@jb70: I'm building the Bugatti straight from the box following your instructions. They're great, but I did notice some color differences between the original instructions and yours. Nothing to worry about, but it does mean it can't be build just following your steps.

One thing I do want to verify with you is step 11 where you insert a black 9 beam, where the original is a grey 13 (step 16 in book 1). So now at the end of bag #1 I have a challange with inserting a black #9 as I only have a grey #13 left. Not sure if this is by design, or it doesn't matter?

Edit:

And in step 10 you added the extra black 5 beam, that isn't there in the Original as later on the original gearbox ends up on this spot.

I assumed your instructions could be followed without needing extra parts. I might have overlooked this message in this thread. Or another options could be; you used all available parts in box 1. As so far I've only opened the #1 bags?

Edited by m3eu
additional text

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@m3eu, You will need additional parts to build the gearbox MOD. So it can't be build only from the parts of the original box. Today I can't tell you what kind of additional parts you would need. You may count by yourself or wait a few weeks. Once I have a complete digital MOD, it will be posted on rebrickable. But this will need some work and some weeks...

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@jb70 thank you for your prompt reply. No worries about the additional parts. If you like I can help you keep track of the parts needed.

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@m3eu, Thankx for your offer. But the rebrickable database will do this work for us automatically, once I have the complete digital build of my MOD.

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1 hour ago, jb70 said:

Well, indeed I tried both configurations 20-12 and 16-16. Both are running very well with less friction. So you may upgear the Bugatti with 20-12, if you like. 

I compared it to the Pimp-up-my-Porsche (and I guess, it was upgeared, too, after implementing your gearbox optimization). With 16-16 the Bugatti runs about twice the distance of the Porsche with the same revolutions of the engine (both in 1st gear or in max gear). And now it get's academic :wink:: For max gear that may be realistic, because the Bugatti should reach 420 km/h at 6000 rpm, compared to the Porsche with 310 km/h at 8.200 rpm.

But I personally will keep the upgeared version with 20-12. It runs fluently in each gear, is comparable with the Porsche and reduces the lag between forward an backwards.

Okay, if it works fine, then I rest my case :wink:.

One small detail about the front suspension mod. You refer to the issue solved as lag, but I believe most people referred to it as sagging.

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