Didumos69

42083 Bugatti Chiron - MODs and Improvements

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Lets have a quick update of my Bugatti project.

I am thinkig about should i create my own topic and start blog posting and update too..

I did like to call it Bugatti "Divsion" because it has combine the element of Divo and the Vision GT

Lets start from the overall looks first.

UPifRge.png

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This time i have fine tune it to 100%legal lego colour parts and adjust it.

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And of course, the awesome tail of Divo. Although i am not good at making out look change but i thik this is nice for me!

N0zKPlu.png

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And also i have chage out the front and rear suppression. Ref : @Erik Leppen

6ZrD4OF.png

And also also.... How about 8 5292 buggy motor..

Although i have finish the design is LDD but the parts i was laning to use is still i shipping ad being jamed due to Chinese ew year Big Jamming....
At least after FEB 10 then the parts will be arrive.

 

Last note : My fukig keyboard is seem like borken. The "n", "p", "i", "9" is not showing sometime. Damn.

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Finally I found a clue for an easy to use HOG lever to operate the spoiler and air brake:

640x640.jpg800x800.jpg

You can now operate the black lever smoothly between 0° (pointing back) an 90° (pointing right) to lift and lower the spoiler in normal mode. If you push the lever further to 135°, the spoiler goes into air brake position. Returning the lever to 0° position sends the spoiler back to home. Operating the lever between 0° and 135° perfectly fits in the gap between the dark blue panels.

If you like to use the speed key to operate the spoiler, you're fine: It still works as it used to be.

With this MOD i took back the change of the air brake from @nerdsforprez in v1.3 and returned to the friction pins in the air brake as in the original design from Lego designer Markus Kossmann. With the friction pins there is a better and clear difference between the two modes: 

  • lifting and lowering the spoiler
  • air brake
Edited by jb70

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And I did some MODs on the front axle:

1. Added Ackermann steering. It only has a little effect because of the reduced wheel angle (limited by tires and CV joints), but it is a noticeable improvement in playability.

640x640.jpg

2. Reinforced front axle and suspension

I replaced the yellow 1x5 thin beams by black 1x5 beams with axle holes and replaced frictionless pins by axles. This gives more stiffness to the front axle. And I added some reinforcements to fix the front axle better to the chassis. The benefit is a noticeable better suspension and a little bit more clearance of the front body.

640x269.jpg640x548.jpg

These updates with part lists and building instructions are available on Rebrickable: 

pimp-up-my-bugatti v1.4

640x451.jpg

Have fun to pimp up your Bugatti, if you like!

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Hi all

Is it just me or is the gearbox inverted? When pulling the right paddle behind the wheel, we should go one gear up, from 1 to 8. Instead, I feel like we are actually going from 8 to 1. 

Thanks for your expert eye and help !

T

 

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On 2/17/2019 at 3:09 PM, thibautf said:

Hi all

Is it just me or is the gearbox inverted? When pulling the right paddle behind the wheel, we should go one gear up, from 1 to 8. Instead, I feel like we are actually going from 8 to 1. 

Thanks for your expert eye and help !

T

 

Yes, the gearbox (or to be precise: the paddle shifter) has been inverted compared to the original 42083-1 as you can see in this previous post. Note that in low gears you have fast engine at low vehicle speeds and in high gears slow engine at high vehicle speeds. And do you really pull or push the paddles?

Edited by jb70

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On 2/18/2019 at 6:46 PM, jb70 said:

Yes, the gearbox (or to be precise: the paddle shifter) has been inverted compared to the original 42083-1 as you can see in this previous post. Note that in low gears you have fast engine at low vehicle speeds and in high gears slow engine at high vehicle speeds. And do you really pull or push the paddles?

Thanks so much @jb70. Yes, I meant the paddle shifter not the gearbox, absolutely. Your fix is a great and quite obvious fix, I'm surprised LEGO official team did not design the model with that set up. What is it that you call 42083-1 ? Was there an initial version of the set that had the paddle shifters in the correct set up?

 

 

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On 8/17/2018 at 11:53 PM, Scot-e-dog said:

It is backwards as it was on the Porsche

@Scot-e-dog

Are you sure that Porsche has it backwards? My Porsche seems to have the paddle shifting in the correct order (Pulling right shift paddle moves gear up, 1>2>3>4>1). 

@jb70 you noticed same thing?

Thanks guys

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After surfing the net (without the oars) for some cool cars and inspiration I stumbled across this:

800x534.jpg

So my question is: Is there any one brave enough to make it in lego? To modify the 42083 into this?

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That somehow looks way better than a standard Chiron in my opinion 

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On 1/28/2019 at 7:26 PM, NKubate said:

A few of you showed an interest to read more about my thoughts on the optimization process that I started a while back. But instead of starting a new topic I decided to test the waters first and write something on my own site NKubate.

In this first post I have a closer look at the rear axle of the model in which I claim that the crossbar between the suspension rods (top image) was added very late in the development process, a bit like an afterthought and why I think this is the case.

Then I explain the thoughts behind the redesign (bottom image) which is not only a stronger solution with less flex, but also improves the building process while reducing the number of parts. The only disadvantage might be that it is slightly heavier, although I haven't checked this...

Let me know if something like this is appreciated and if I should perhaps go in further details.

Very much appreciated and inspiring!

Below my attempt, based on your redesigned rear-axle, mixed with some Pimp my Bugatti v1.4 changes and some changes I made myself.
Amongst others, bracing of the rear axle using the 2 blue pins (with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Pin Hole), additional bracing of engine cover to gearbox, etc.

Taking a break since I don't have enough spare perpendicular 3 x 3 bent connectors.

800x948.jpg

800x806.jpg

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800x644.jpg

Edited by emielroumen
Bricksafe new file / URL + new images

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On 12/28/2018 at 6:39 AM, nerdsforprez said:

So as I continued to build my Chiron, thought it might be cool to see some internals while shifting through all eight gears.  I know others have made mention of this before, but they like models that can mix aesthetics with also the guts of a machine.  I like the idea, and may leave the car like this so I can display both sides depending on my mood.  Just simply switch it around when I wanted to show one over the other:

cutaway_small

Here is a video of it shifting through all the gears.  Also showing the error in the design... i.e. the lack of gear block.  I know we have corrected it, but I am just showing the error in the original. 

 

I bought the Chiron for the sole purpose of building it in the "cut-away" fashion as @nerdsforprez did. I built the Porsche GT3, but the way that model is constructed, it does not lend itself to a cut-away build. Too much cladding over the transmission and engine. Is there any advice, photos, or details you can share so I know how to proceed with the build? Worst case I would build it complete, then slowly and carefully remove parts from one side, while trying to maintain structural integrity. As a display model with a motor running the internal mechanicals, it would be awesome. Espcially with some internal LED lighting to highlight the transmission and engine.

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Unfortunately, I think this is the best approach. Build it, then prune away.  That is what I did.  It can be done the other way, as you build, but I found it actually much more tedious and time consuming. One needs to plan ahead very step of the way.

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Its funny you posted this right now.  I have just done the same with 42096.  Not because it impressed, but to show how empty the set is.  Editing the photos now.  I had wished I had my 42056 with me to do the same, but it looks like, based on your attempt, it is not really possible. 

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After recently buying a Bugatti and building it, I'd like to thank everybody in this topic but especially @jb70 and @Didumos69 for all their work on tweaking this model. Now at least I got an efficient gearbox, front suspension that works and ackermann steering. Much appreciated!

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Hi

I have added a center differential into the gearbox like the real car has (according to some sources).

https://bricksafe.com/files/snipe/pimp-my-bugatti-with-center-differential/pimp my bugatti chiron with centre diff.mpd

The centre differential is bypassed when reverse is selected but that shouldn't matter. Neutural/forward still works just fine.

I also have a simplified gearbox but it needs testing (I have to buy a lego RPM-omier) in order to check if there are 7 different ratios.

There is actually ample space beside the gearbox on either side for an M or L motor too. I'd like to see this car RC'd but without kicking out its existing functions like the engine or the gearbox.

I will probably have a go at this when I have time. Alot of this car has been overbuilt, so simplifying it will make more room for the motors.

Edited by SNIPE

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On 4/17/2019 at 11:41 PM, SNIPE said:

I have added a center differential into the gearbox like the real car has (according to some sources).

https://bricksafe.com/files/snipe/pimp-my-bugatti-with-center-differential/pimp my bugatti chiron with centre diff.mpd

The centre differential is bypassed when reverse is selected but that shouldn't matter. Neutural/forward still works just fine.

@SNIPE. That's a very good idea to add a center diff to the Bugatti. Without a center diff the power train loads a lot of torsion. 

But, I think your solution does not work, because you placed the center diff only between the engine and the power train axle. So the power train axle still builds up a fix connection between the front and back differentials: 

640x640.jpg

To get it work, we need to place the center diff inside the power train axle and connect the housing of the center diff to the gearbox. Something like that:

640x640.jpg

I need to think about how the gearbox can be redesigned so that center diff fits in...

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23 hours ago, jb70 said:

@SNIPE. That's a very good idea to add a center diff to the Bugatti. Without a center diff the power train loads a lot of torsion. 

But, I think your solution does not work, because you placed the center diff only between the engine and the power train axle. So the power train axle still builds up a fix connection between the front and back differentials:

To get it work, we need to place the center diff inside the power train axle and connect the housing of the center diff to the gearbox. Something like that:

I need to think about how the gearbox can be redesigned so that center diff fits in...

Hi,

Have you tried my link again? I decided to take the centre diff out of the gearbox and put it in the F-N-R selector assembly because it is more optimal to do it that way (and easier).

I forgot to edit my last topic saying that its no longer in the gearbox, I do however have two smaller 8 speed gearboxes

Here is the slightly larger one: https://bricksafe.com/pages/snipe/pimp-my-bugatti-with-center-differential/optimised-8-speed-bugatti-gearbox-v1.5

The slightly smaller one Ill add pictures of soon

Note that they still need testing, I don't have the lego racers speedomiter yet so I cant tell if the speeds are unique, and in order. Maybe someone else can test them for now.

Edited by SNIPE

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@SNIPE Yes, I checked your last link. But, placing the center diff between engine and power train axle in the F-N-R selector does not have any effect to balance torque and speeds between front and rear axle. In your solution the center diff can only manage torque and speeds between engine, gearbox and wheels. But front and rear axle are still strongly coupled by the main power train axle. That may still work fine, but doesn't have the desired effect of a center diff. If you want a working center diff to manage torque and speed between front and rear axle, you must place it inside the power train axle between front and rear axle.

Nevertheless, the way how you designed the diff into the F-N-R selector and the existing environment, well done! :thumbup:

Your gearbox looks very nice and compact. When I did count correctly from your photos, I calculate the following gear ratios:

1st gear -1,25
2nd gear -1,00
3rd gear -2,08
4th gear -1,67
5th gear -1,56
6th gear -1,25
7th gear -2,60
8th gear -2,08

So, I think, the gearbox will work and shift, but not really sequentially. Maybe our gearbox hero @Didumos69 can have a look on it?

Edited by jb70

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Cool, to make it sequential I just need to swap some gears on some axles. shouldnt be a problem much.

I'm glad that the speeds are all unique becayse lego (non function) gearboxes are my weak point.

Here is the smaller version, however connecting up the two shifter axles is harder here:

Here are the photos of the even smaller gearbox

WIN_20190507_01_29_51_Pro.jpg

Note that I am missing a second yellow drive ring extension, so am using the old one in light bluish gray.

The hard part about putting the centre differential inside the power train is that there must be a gear on a seperate shaft which meshes with the 18 or 24 teeth on the differential. I'll have a look to see if I can do it soon :)

 

Edited by SNIPE

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Thanks to @SNIPE 's great idea and inspiration I think, I finally found a solution how to

  1. integrate a center diff into the main power train inside the gearbox,
  2. that fits into the Pimp-up-my-Bugatti design
  3. and keeps the well balanced sequential gear ratios from @Didumos69 's proved solution:

640x640.jpg 640x640.jpg

I needed to add an additional gear pair (12t/20t) at the front side of the gearbox and in the high/low-part of the gearbox I changed two gear pairs from red clutch gears (12t/20t) to the new blue clutch gears (12t/20t) to compensate the total gear ratio of the gearbox. These changes were necessary, because the center diff now couples into the gearbox by a 1:1 ratio (16t/16t). In the original design it was a 1:3 ratio (8t/24t), which now has to be compensated. Without theses changes the reverse gear, which bypasses the gearbox would have been ranged near 5th gear, much too fast for a reverse gear ;-)

This design results in the following gearbox ratios (from gearbox in to gearbox out):

1st gear -1,33
2nd gear -1,67
3rd gear -2,22
4th gear -2,78
5th gear -3,70
6th gear -4,63
7th gear -6,17
8th gear -7,72
reverse gear 1,21

Up to now I only did a digital build. Next week I will test it in a real build.

And if the design passes the tests, Pimp-up-my-Bugatti v1.5 will be on its way...

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