Didumos69

42083 Bugatti Chiron - MODs and Improvements

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11 minutes ago, Seasider said:

I wonder what the car looks like with just plain light grey tiles across the bottom of the door as a replacement to the light blue with the stickers

Not sure if you saw my post, but I did this

 

https://imgur.com/CtIPGWT

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16 minutes ago, SheldonF said:

Not sure if you saw my post, but I did this

Ahhh that was you. I really like your solution :sweet: :thumbup:

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The extra tube mod looks good. Did you cut that to length or is it a standard TLG length ?

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It's a pneumatic hose that I cut to 11studs, however I ordered some 11 LBG rigid hoses (Same as the ones that came in the box). I'll take a picture of when it comes in today. I think they'll look the same. The advantage of the hose is that you can manipulate it a bit more to get that little curve you see in the picture, 

53 minutes ago, Jim said:

Ahhh that was you. I really like your solution :sweet: :thumbup:

Thanks!! I'm really surprised TLG didn't do something like this. Really strange. It doesn't use any illegal techniques and quite simple, and less pieces/stickers than using tiles. Strange. 

1 minute ago, technic_addict said:

Nice mod.  Can you provide details of the change?

Yes, I'll take pics of pieces. It's very simple. I just used friction pins to stick in the little wrench pieces in two places. The LBG half pins don't work since they're friction less.  

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4 minutes ago, SheldonF said:

It's a pneumatic hose that I cut to 11studs, however I ordered some 11 LBG rigid hoses (Same as the ones that came in the box). I'll take a picture of when it comes in today. I think they'll look the same. The advantage of the hose is that you can manipulate it a bit more to get that little curve you see in the picture, 

Thanks!! I'm really surprised TLG didn't do something like this. Really strange. It doesn't use any illegal techniques and quite simple, and less pieces/stickers than using tiles. Strange. 

Yes, I'll take pics of pieces. It's very simple. I just used friction pins to stick in the little wrench pieces in two places. The LBG half pins don't work since they're friction less.  

Oh, I see now.  Even without slight bend I think it looks better than the sticker.  Is it possible to put a flat tile in dark azure to cover the lift arm holes or would the hose interfere?

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With the pneumatic hose it's possible but imo doesn't look as nice...it looks too bulky. I have to try a combo to make an 7L or 8L tile underneath.  That or replace the wrenches with 1x1 clip pieces was another idea. This was the first iteration

Edited by SheldonF

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After some tinkering I managed to reduce the Bugatti transmission complexity. It uses two meshes less in each gear and it has one clutch gear less involved in transferring drive on an axle with different speed. The gearbox is also narrower and shorter and has a 8th-to-1st gearblock. All its clutches are perfectly aligned, which allows for a more elegant housing as well. The whole transmission has practically the same ratios as the original (only 2nd and 6th gear change slightly from 0.286 to 0.268 and from 0.794 to 0.744 respectively).

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

LXF-file here.

Edited by Didumos69

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Cool, great work. Looking at the bottom image it looks like a peaceful gearbox, compared to the busy original :classic:

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Getting back at the front suspension - wouldn't it be possible to mod it by using the 6x2 suspension arms instead of the 5x1 ones? The hinge point for the arms would move one stud inwards, but the springs would mount to 3 studs away form the hinge instead of 2, so the leverage of the springs would be 3/5 = 0.6, instead of 2/4 = 0.5, making the suspension approximatly 20% stronger.

Wouldnt that be enough to fix the problems?

I don't know how hard it would be to move the mounting points for the suspension arms, but it's merely a suggestion I haven't seen here yet.

 

As for @Didumos69's gearbox… someone should really build it to test. If it's really working as I expect, I don't get how it can be that a whole design team paid to do this works a year on a model, and then a random dude on the internet fixes a cleaner-designed gearbox with fewer parts in at most a few weeks of his spare time (ignoring for the moment the years spent to learn the craft), while, seemingly, requiring one fewer new mould (I see no yellow extender).

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3 hours ago, Erik Leppen said:

As for @Didumos69's gearbox… someone should really build it to test. If it's really working as I expect, I don't get how it can be that a whole design team paid to do this works a year on a model, and then a random dude on the internet fixes a cleaner-designed gearbox with fewer parts in at most a few weeks of his spare time (ignoring for the moment the years spent to learn the craft), while, seemingly, requiring one fewer new mould (I see no yellow extender).

Yes, it needs to be built before we can draw real conclusions. The whole gearbox works at a higher speed (9/5 times the speed of the original), which is the only downside I can think of.

Edited by Didumos69

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Found a great spot for 2x L motors, next step is to disassemble most part of car to reach that white gear and change it with regular one.

tYGlhLkovmo.jpg

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I got this set but not going to make the same mistake I made with the Porsche and have to tear it apart often to make it better and instead force myself to wait till a ultimately playable one comes out.

How long do you think it will be till a ultimately playable guide comes out?

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I don't like the (blue) 24 - 20 gear combo. Is this for the reverse?

This is how you destroy your gears.

I don't know how much space there is but i have two possible solutions ( I prefer the left one because I try to avoid using 8t gears ):

chiron gearbox reverse

 

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10 hours ago, pagicence said:

@Bartybum Is this something what you had in mind?

A little brighter tan but yeah something like that!

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8 hours ago, Aman said:

How long do you think it will be till a ultimately playable guide comes out?

This all depends on whether there is someone who takes up the task of putting all mods together. I will stick to some occasional mods this time.

8 hours ago, jovel said:

I don't like the (blue) 24 - 20 gear combo. Is this for the reverse?

This is how you destroy your gears.

I don't know how much space there is but i have two possible solutions ( I prefer the left one because I try to avoid using 8t gears ):

Would indeed be nice to fix this, but introducing 2 extra meshes is going to introduce more friction and backlash. And adding an extra clutch gear is even worse.

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1 hour ago, ttoobbyy said:

Il est génial! Souhaitent avoir des instructions

I have not finished yet, but I will post more detailed pictures of my mods when they are totally finished.
There, I'm waiting for parts

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Here is my attempt at a modified front suspension with 6L suspension arms instead of 5L. This should add 20% strength to the suspension and it should be less sloppy as well. It uses CV-joints as a replacement for the original U-joints. No friction pins for moving parts. If it's not strong enough, the suspension arms could be extended to 7L in the same way, but that would require a lot more tweaking to the front part of the chassis. I think it should fit as is, but I'm not 100% sure, because I don't have the physical build. I did check al kinds of images though and I'm sure it doesn't collide with the paddle shifter unit. Travel is not much, about 2/3 of a stud, but if it's strong enough I think it's good. Perhaps someone could test this?

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

LXF-file here.

Edited by Didumos69

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I would recommend to make 2 MODs at least:

- an easy to install, with as less additional part count as possible - like @DugaldIC did. For people with low patience to rebuild the whole front, and want it simply work.

- a complete upgrade, with optimized design for total front (weight saving +++). For people who are not afraid to go back to drawing table.

Both have the challenge.

Edited by agrof

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14 minutes ago, agrof said:

I would recommend to make 2 MODs at least:

- an easy to install, with as less additional part count as possible - like @DugaldIC did. For people with low patience to rebuild the whole front, and want it simply work.

- a complete upgrade, with optimized design for total front (weight saving +++). For people who are not afraid to go back to drawing table.

Both have the challenge.

But someone has to compile such upgrades and it won't be me this time. I will just be sharing my MODs and eventually list pointers to the most relevant MODs - also the torsion-bar-mod - in the OP. In this case I think there are also people looking for a non-torsion-bar fix for the front suspension, without completely redoing the front. Btw, there are not so many options for suspended driven front axles hard enough for a heavy model. Pushrod suspension would not be consistent with the rear axles imo.

Edited by Didumos69

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I updated my front suspension MOD, so it no longer collides with the steering gears:

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

A little more background on this MOD. The suspension arm length can be extended to 6L and 7L using 5L and 6L thin beams. By extending the suspension arms inwards and leaving the shock absorber where it is, the strength of the suspension increases. The amount by which it increases can be roughly expressed in terms of the relative position of the point where the shock absorber is mounted to the bottom suspension arm. In the original suspension, the shock absorber is mounted halfway the suspension arm: 2/4 = 0.5 (note that distances are measured between the centers of the pin holes). When using 6L suspension arms, this increases to 3/5 = 0.6 (increase of 20%). For 7L suspension arms it would increase to 4/6 0.67 (increase of 33%). The 2L and 3L levers are only to reinforce the suspension arms sideways.

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

The 7L version is much harder to incorporate in the model (mainly because of the steering gears), so for now I only worked out how to integrate the 6L version.

LXF-file here.

Edited by Didumos69

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