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...as you can see rear mudguards and compressor are in place so next step is to make proper cab (it will be similar to cab from first Fastrac version )

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...and I'm using dishes 6 X 6 in yellow

Edited by I_Igor

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Dear members of Eurobricks forum, as you can see spaghetti work is finished for major part of pneumatic system; after I finish cab a d engine compartment I'll replace rear small pneumatic cylinders with medium size from 8455 set. Cab pillars are in place and I hope that at May the 1st I'll have more time for building. So far I'm very happy with amount of parts saved from last build so I'll have enough yellow axles for JCB Loadall which will be priority Ater I finish this one...

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...note that (so-far) have only two yellow dishes 6x6

Any comment is welcome

 

Edited by I_Igor

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On 4/28/2019 at 9:00 PM, Maaboo35 said:

This is starting to look really good. I'm also looking forward to your Loadall! :excited:

Thanks. If I'll manage to finish it this week I'll start to rebuild Loadall...so far I have made bases for 560-80 and 504-I3 but smallest will be new version featuring 3 cylinder engine and will be based on 49.5 tires. Bigger Loadall chassis will be redesign by using frames mainly...

There is also one other project that is in phase of chassis optimisation - Syn-trac.

Regards

Edited by I_Igor

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2 minutes ago, I_Igor said:

There is also one other project that is in phase of chassis optimisation - Syn-trac.

That sounds cool. Very ambitious. :thumbup:

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19 minutes ago, Maaboo35 said:

That sounds cool. Very ambitious. :thumbup:

The main problem with Syn-trac is Tatra-like suspension; since model is (realistically) narrow, I have problem with to big steering rack or to long linkage...

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2 hours ago, I_Igor said:

The main problem with Syn-trac is Tatra-like suspension; since model is (realistically) narrow, I have problem with to big steering rack or to long linkage...

I'm sure a clever man like you will soon have that sorted out. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

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I looks great!!! Nice color and shape..   looks like a wasp!!!   Using an Ackermann steering can shorten the steering bar but you need to adjust the lenght of the bar like 4l length away from the center of the axle to acheive Ackermann geometry of the frame design to the back center point of the rear diff...  I love those little steps!! .. 

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7 hours ago, grum64 said:

I'm sure a clever man like you will soon have that sorted out. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

thank you my friend; as you know with age comes wisdom and I have some ideas in my head, but need at least 2 hours of peace to test them...

6 hours ago, sirslayer said:

I looks great!!! Nice color and shape..   looks like a wasp!!!   Using an Ackermann steering can shorten the steering bar but you need to adjust the lenght of the bar like 4l length away from the center of the axle to acheive Ackermann geometry of the frame design to the back center point of the rear diff...  I love those little steps!! .. 

Thanks buddy (thankfully not Bundy :laugh:) I was thinking on making some adjustments in order to lead linkage almost parallel to suspension arms and make some gear rack holders based on this liftarm...

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32140&idColor=85#T=C&C=85

...and use perpendicular connectors to connect gear rack to it...

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19 hours ago, sirslayer said:

I looks great!!! Nice color and shape..   looks like a wasp!!!   

...and if I made Volvo with a little bit of orange it will look like Bee :wink:

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Igor it might not be a bad idea to add a front loader attacher to your JCB (I don't remember whether were you planning to or not), it will make it stand out even more in the sea of other tractors.

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6 hours ago, pagicence said:

Igor it might not be a bad idea to add a front loader attacher to your JCB (I don't remember whether were you planning to or not), it will make it stand out even more in the sea of other tractors.

...but then I'll have to redesign whole chassis just behind front wheel in order to make it stiff enough for front loader. By adding extra parts it will be more heavy and turning cycle will increase. My goal with this second version is to make it lighter and to save some parts. Linear actuators are IMHO a bit unusual for 3 point hitch so I decided to make pneumatic version....

Edited by I_Igor

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Unfortunately I had an injury to my hand at my work so I'm back to Fastrac project since few days ago and here is what I have managed so far...you can noticed that front and real axle use ball joint from Unimog due to weight (CV joints keep falling out :ugh:)...

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...as you can notice chassis is based on frames; all 5 x 7 frames are black, only H frames 11 x 5 are in light bluish gray color. Axles are not particularly geared down because it is a Fastrac not slowtrac and suspension travel is about stud and a half (topical for small shocks)

More complicated part will arrive and i'm still not sure if I'll be able to fit fake engine inside.

Enjoy

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Igor’s back! I wondered where you’ve been. Hope the hand has healed OK. 

Good to see you working on this again, it looks to be coming along nicely. I look forward to seeing more progress soon.

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I now understand better the difficulty to fit 6 motors in this build. Which setup do you finally choose for the motorization of this tractor?

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2 minutes ago, steph77 said:

I now understand better the difficulty to fit 6 motors in this build. Which setup do you finally choose for the motorization of this tractor?

I chose to copy solution very similar to set 9398 just using m-motor for steering. PTO (both front and rear will be driven from l-motors in axles and 3 point hitches will be operated manually since I have to manually attach / detach attachments; I plan to make blue trailer :wink:

Kind regards

50 minutes ago, grum64 said:

Igor’s back! I wondered where you’ve been. Hope the hand has healed OK. 

Good to see you working on this again, it looks to be coming along nicely. I look forward to seeing more progress soon.

Thanks :sweet:

Next thing I plan is to make interior; actually I plan to put steering column and driver's seat on battery box which will be situated in this but hole. Blue 1 x 5 liftarms are where end of battery box will be placed. Whole battery box should be placed "from windshield"

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So the battery box will be placed in the middle of the frame. I guess that the fact that all possibility to pass axle from front to rear is killed since your chassis is fully suspended + battery placement.

This is an idea I had try to implement on my own tractor. The purpose was to motorized the 3 point hitch. The originality was the idea to place the motor on the trailer and motorize, from the trailer , one PTO connected to the 3 point hitch mechanism. Thus mean the attachment needs to be designed in that way and that without attachment the 3 point hitch is manual...

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6 minutes ago, steph77 said:

So the battery box will be placed in the middle of the frame. I guess that the fact that all possibility to pass axle from front to rear is killed since your chassis is fully suspended + battery placement.

This is an idea I had try to implement on my own tractor. The purpose was to motorized the 3 point hitch. The originality was the idea to place the motor on the trailer and motorize, from the trailer , one PTO connected to the 3 point hitch mechanism. Thus mean the attachment needs to be designed in that way and that without attachment the 3 point hitch is manual...

My additional problem is that Fastrac would (if you want it fully RC) need separate motor for pto, separate motor foto 3 point hitch...on single axle...and Shire size of battery box is killing me...and rechargable is out of My (financial) reach. I have been thinking generally about my mocs and have realized that smaller should be pure manually operated and bigger to be optimized like this one. Lego set 8043 is great optimisation IMHO...

Your Trac (with rear axle fixed to chassis) could use m-motor, but for everything you need huge compromises...or you can use driving ring to activate PTO together with drive...

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...just a small update; battery box and seat are installed inside. 

Trac and battery box with driver's seat

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Preparations to install battery box (removed central part of the roof)

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Notice two blue pins pulled out by one stud to enable spreading front 13 studs liftarms to make easier battery box installation...

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Battery box is in place...

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Battery box is switching on and off by this red axle connector connected via axle 5 to battery box switch.

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Side views of battery box in chassis and driver's seat above battery box

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...more updates will follow...

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Both left and right side are finished, and simple rear mudguards are in place. Receiver is hidden at the right side just behind stairs.

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Next challenge is to make steering column and front part...

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Now I have updated chassis in black as much is possible with my parts inventory and I hope that even Victor (@sirslayer) would like it...

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As you can see I use yellow connectors to be battery box holders because I have very limited amount of blue and plan to make blue attachment for Fastrac.

At the end there will be total 11 black frames 5 x 7 (four of them in both axles)

Edited by I_Igor

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yeah!!! I like!!  It would great in all silver!!! Technic newest light weight color!!!  

Edited by sirslayer

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Thanks buddy, I can only make older version like Fastrac 2155 with flat silver rims to make it realistic.

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After several months of ups and downs I have finished Fastrac. Result can be seen in few pictures below (finally I'm satisfied with all proportions)

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... and one belly shot...

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Any questions are welcome

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I've noticed on your differentials, it's dual gear!!! Is that for the PTO and do you have and example of a PTO?? Looks great my friend !! 

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