rahziel

LEGO 60197 Passenger Train

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2 hours ago, koalayummies said:

95% chance I'd mess up the two stickers on the big nose cone piece. :laugh:

I'm stressed out just looking at them

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3 hours ago, koalayummies said:

95% chance I'd mess up the two stickers on the big nose cone piece. :laugh:

98% chance here ...:blush: I am trying though to get that percentage lower and lower ...

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4 hours ago, koalayummies said:

95% chance I'd mess up the two stickers on the big nose cone piece. :laugh:

Practice makes perfect.   You can come by my warehouse and help put shipping labels on envelopes and boxes.  :laugh:

 

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19 hours ago, koalayummies said:

95% chance I'd mess up the two stickers on the big nose cone piece. :laugh:

Put some Windex or soapy water on the piece first. The sticker will float on top allowing you to position it perfectly, then slowly press it into place and squeeze the water out. Makes aligning big stickers easy!

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21 hours ago, CarrollFilms said:

Did anybody else notice the new looking train track?

That is just a reinforcement on the ends, it has been there forever, I'm pretty sure it is even present on 9V track.

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21 hours ago, dr_spock said:

Practice makes perfect.   You can come by my warehouse and help put shipping labels on envelopes and boxes.  :laugh:

I had the pleasure to organize a mass spec conference at our university, couple of years ago. Some 400 people showed up. I managed to convince one of the exhibition vendors to sponsor 1000 bottles of beer from a local brewery and promised that my group (including myself) would relabel them with whatever the come up with.

After a couple of beers, every new label was spot on. I came to the conclusion the issue I have is size-related; I tried the beer approach with LEGO stickers as well: Not good:laugh:

Best
Thorsten     

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I think it looks fantastic for a City train.  Now I'm genuinely annoyed I spent hundreds of squids on building a 50s-era train and village display...

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On 5/19/2018 at 8:45 AM, sed6 said:

Put some Windex or soapy water on the piece first. The sticker will float on top allowing you to position it perfectly, then slowly press it into place and squeeze the water out. Makes aligning big stickers easy!

Does that trick actually work? Without degrading adhesion in the long run? That would be amazing if true. Perhaps you could post a new thread with a tutorial about applying lego stickers this way?

 

 

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2 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

Does that trick actually work? Without degrading adhesion in the long run? That would be amazing if true. Perhaps you could post a new thread with a tutorial about applying lego stickers this way?

 

 

I know there are some sticker adhesives that are designed to work like this. I'm fairly confident the plastic clear lego stickers are designed to work like this. Not sure about the paper ones though. 

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18 minutes ago, Goldenmasamune said:

I know there are some sticker adhesives that are designed to work like this. I'm fairly confident the plastic clear lego stickers are designed to work like this. Not sure about the paper ones though. 

This only works with the 'plastic clear' ones, if handled carefully! Don't try the paper ones, it'll cause them to deteriorate! The clue is in the fact they're paper based!

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3 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

Does that trick actually work? Without degrading adhesion in the long run? That would be amazing if true. Perhaps you could post a new thread with a tutorial about applying lego stickers this way?

 

 

I sure does! Did it on my 60051 passenger train for the big cab stickers. As other have said it doesn't work on paper stickers, but I haven't seen a paper sticker used on anything in a long time. 

I dont have a tutorial, but the process is simple. Just wet the surface you're applying the sticker to with Windex, water, or even a glass full of water with a single drop of soap mixed in. The sticker just floats on top until you press it down. Even when lighty pressed down there's still tiny amounts of water underneath which prevent complete and proper adhesion. You can use this to your advantage to continue to slide the sticker around until it's perfect or even remove the sticker and start over if need be (apply more water). Once the sticker's perfect you can use your finger wrapped in a tissue or cloth or paper towel to then squeeze the remaining water out. Start in the middle and work outward to force the water to the edge where it's absorbed by the tissue. Once pressed and squeegee'd in place the sticker sticks as well as if you has done it dry.

It's easy to practice, and you should if you haven't before. Find some extra stickers (we all have extras) or failing that use the left over border from a used sticker sheet and practice applying to the side of a 2x4 or a 2x6 brick. Once you've done it a time or two you'll see just how easy it is!

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As said before I also think that sticker will probably be a pain in the megablocks to align, but with a little care and patience the stickers provide more than one try without loosing quality.
And what about that god damn roof with those slopes, I hate them, got to convert them to round slopes for a smooth roof as the one in the horizon express.

Also I'm liking even more this new controller, looks a lot more nice than the previous gamepad style design witch never had me as a fan...

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On ‎21‎.‎05‎.‎2018 at 9:18 PM, sed6 said:

I sure does! Did it on my 60051 passenger train for the big cab stickers. As other have said it doesn't work on paper stickers, but I haven't seen a paper sticker used on anything in a long time. 

I dont have a tutorial, but the process is simple. Just wet the surface you're applying the sticker to with Windex, water, or even a glass full of water with a single drop of soap mixed in. The sticker just floats on top until you press it down. Even when lighty pressed down there's still tiny amounts of water underneath which prevent complete and proper adhesion. You can use this to your advantage to continue to slide the sticker around until it's perfect or even remove the sticker and start over if need be (apply more water). Once the sticker's perfect you can use your finger wrapped in a tissue or cloth or paper towel to then squeeze the remaining water out. Start in the middle and work outward to force the water to the edge where it's absorbed by the tissue. Once pressed and squeegee'd in place the sticker sticks as well as if you has done it dry.

It's easy to practice, and you should if you haven't before. Find some extra stickers (we all have extras) or failing that use the left over border from a used sticker sheet and practice applying to the side of a 2x4 or a 2x6 brick. Once you've done it a time or two you'll see just how easy it is!

Makes perfect sense!

Oh my. Why did I not think of this. We frequently get large "signs" (e.g., 1 x 2 m2 - there is about 3 feet in 1 m and 25 inches in one foot, just for the sake of intercontinental communication) - on the back covered with an adhesive layer. The instructions tell you to spray a mist of water based stuff, such as water:wink:, or much better sprays that evenly cover the surface (like Windex) onto the surface you want to place the sign (like a door or fume hood). Adjust, readjust, don't worry about blisters; wipe them away. The adhesive layer attaches to the even surface nicely and done.

Of course that works - the water doesn't like the adhesive layer (and vice versa), so you can easily squeeze out the liquid by whatever means - in case of 1 x 2 m2 panels, they give you some sort of tool, which is essentially a squeegee. I guess with 1 x 5 mm2 LEGO stickers, other means will do. Press a little as the adhesive does like the even ABS surface very much - and done.

Cool.

(Well, I had hoped someone had an idea of how to support my beer approach, but - this is definitely it)

Thank you very much for sharing @sed6!!!

All the best
Thorsten

    

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Applying beer to the sticker may not work as well as soapy water.  :wink:  I used a very weak soapy solution when i was applying 3M Stongard film to my car.  Once you have it where you want it, squeegee out the solution + air bubbles and viola.   :classic:

I print my own train stickers on label paper.  Inkjet ink would run like crazy if it gets wet.  Don't use that technique on inkjet clear labels either. 

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On 5/21/2018 at 3:18 PM, sed6 said:

I sure does! Did it on my 60051 passenger train for the big cab stickers. As other have said it doesn't work on paper stickers, but I haven't seen a paper sticker used on anything in a long time. 

I dont have a tutorial, but the process is simple. Just wet the surface you're applying the sticker to with Windex, water, or even a glass full of water with a single drop of soap mixed in. The sticker just floats on top until you press it down. Even when lighty pressed down there's still tiny amounts of water underneath which prevent complete and proper adhesion. You can use this to your advantage to continue to slide the sticker around until it's perfect or even remove the sticker and start over if need be (apply more water). Once the sticker's perfect you can use your finger wrapped in a tissue or cloth or paper towel to then squeeze the remaining water out. Start in the middle and work outward to force the water to the edge where it's absorbed by the tissue. Once pressed and squeegee'd in place the sticker sticks as well as if you has done it dry.

It's easy to practice, and you should if you haven't before. Find some extra stickers (we all have extras) or failing that use the left over border from a used sticker sheet and practice applying to the side of a 2x4 or a 2x6 brick. Once you've done it a time or two you'll see just how easy it is!

That is insanely brilliant! The stickers I make go on wet and after they dry they stay in place (but they are not decals, they can be removed and reapplied). It is so much easier to just float the sticker in to place than to try to get your aim just right on the first shot. That floating has broken me for normal lego stickers, I can't stand my poor aim when putting them on dry. Now knowing that I can get the same effect with regular lego stickers... I'm regretting several years of normal set building.

Getting back on topic though, I would think there is a chance that the nose piece is printed.

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

That is insanely brilliant!...

Getting back on topic though, I would think there is a chance that the nose piece is printed.

Thank you. But I can't claim credit, I learned it from someone myself years ago. 

The nose is stickered though, if you zoom in on some of the official pics at S@H it's evident. 

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I assume that, if the set is designed to be paired up, there would need to be either extra instructions (and bricks?) for an extra unpowered bogie on the trailing unit, or to make the train motor run backwards (therefore needing two battery boxes and associated batteries as well as a polarity switch?)?

Edited by PeteM

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I don't think they'll bother with either. The train motors (or at least the now-old PF ones) have low resistance to being pulled along unpowered. I don't know if a powered motor can pull an unpowered one or not. Either way, I don't see them including extra bricks just to replace the motor, and I don't think a PU (Powered Up, the new system) polarity switch even exists yet.

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18 hours ago, PeteM said:

...polarity switch?

Here's a good method to reverse the polarity. Best part is you never need to un-modify a modified motor. You use the modified motor on dual motor trains, or put them back into service on a single motor train and just the reverse switch on the PF remote. On the new PU controller there's no reverse, so you'd just rotate the knob so the "-" symbol is at the top and that then would be forward. 

 

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Sorry for the necro; A question for the people who have double 60197, is there a possibility to drive with only one motor?
(Two motors are too much batteries, I dont want to rebuild the motor and one carriage can pull the other 5 just fine)

So if you buy two of these trains, what did you do with the second motor? Did you replace it with seperate wheels, or just put the motor in free gear?

Also is 72 Euro a good price for each set?

 

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Busy building this set and wrong part in the box, not really a wrong part, but a spare part and missing another part.
 

Spare part: Tile 1x4 Dark Blue

Missing part: Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Handle on Side - Closed Ends Black

 

Already fixed the lights aswell to the front and gonna add some parts so the cables, which are way too long of those lights, don't get in the cockpit/cabine

 

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6 minutes ago, Dragunov2 said:

Busy building this set and wrong part in the box, not really a wrong part, but a spare part and missing another part.
 

Spare part: Tile 1x4 Dark Blue

Missing part: Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Handle on Side - Closed Ends Black

 

Already fixed the lights aswell to the front and gonna add some parts so the cables, which are way too long of those lights, don't get in the cockpit/cabine

 

That's a bummer, atleast its easy to get free replacements from lego...

Also, what kind of lights do you mean? i thought there weren't any electronic lights in there at all...

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10 hours ago, Dragunov2 said:

I paid €85 for this set, normally €130

Where or how?

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13 hours ago, Doge said:

That's a bummer, atleast its easy to get free replacements from lego...

Also, what kind of lights do you mean? i thought there weren't any electronic lights in there at all...

The new LEDs for Powered Up, train has already the placement for it. 

9 hours ago, sed6 said:

Where or how?

Action on bol.com 

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