Didumos69

[MOC] Greyhound 4WD RC Buggy /w instructions (also orange / white)

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@Didumos69 just finished the Greyhound and the instructions worked perfectly. I was setting up the buwizz app and accidentally hit the joystick in Ludicrous mode. It just flew off the table and landed on the floor and took off across the room....no damage at all!! This is not your average LEGO moc for sure! I also lubed this baby up as I built. Saves time although you can add more lube easily. Thanks again for this fantastic Moc!!

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13 hours ago, AFOLegofan66 said:

@Didumos69 just finished the Greyhound and the instructions worked perfectly. I was setting up the buwizz app and accidentally hit the joystick in Ludicrous mode. It just flew off the table and landed on the floor and took off across the room....no damage at all!! This is not your average LEGO moc for sure! I also lubed this baby up as I built. Saves time although you can add more lube easily. Thanks again for this fantastic Moc!!

Great! Did it meet your expectations?

I also added the orange version to Rebrickable. Instructions are the same, but the parts list is different and I added a note on which parts to replace while building.

800x450.jpg

800x450.jpg

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@Didumos69 nice color change! To answer your question yes it is the best built MOC I ever made. It is so solid and with the two Buwizz it really moves out...awesome!! Extremely happy about the whole experience!! Now I.m going to find out how many times a Buwizz can be recharged before it is no longer usefull!! 

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@Didumos69 indeed great color. I’m still in the process of gathering the parts to built this and since I’m not familiar or knowledgeable on how to do it, may I ask for a part list that has only the different parts required for the orange build please ? (in a PM or email would be great)

 

 

Edited by MultiDoc

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I finished the build last night. Very satisfactory while building and excellent overall. Definitely not an easy build but well worth it. I build the orange version with very few differences (white coloumn behind the seats and 2 x 13L liftarms on the rear axles since I run out of black ones). To be really complete, I’m also missing 2 x 90 degree connectors for the roof and 2 x 12L axles for the rear “roof panels”.

DgkEzpb.jpg

kfpYyrB.jpg

DcyY4QK.jpg

And now I’ll need some help. I tried to run it today for the first time and although overall is very tough and can indeed take a beating, I found out that unfortunately there’s a ver6 weak link that I don’t understand why. See the picture below:

aJdcDTV.jpg

so when you drive, if it hits something with the front wheel, the part in the red circle in the photo above (don’t know what I should call it) comes out and results in the steering being uncontrollable anymore. 

Anyone has any idea how to make it more sturdy ? I’m even thinking of using glue to glue it in place. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

last thing is that I notice the steering is very audible. I mean the gear that is powered by the servo motor and runs along the toothed beam makes a very audible kind of clicking noise. A noise which I could not hear in Didumos’s videos. Any idea ?

 

anyway, as I said I’m very pleased with this MOC and can only highly recommend it. I’m looking forward for some outdoors driving and of course anyone’s input on the questions above for an6 possible solutions.

cheers,

 

Doc

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Great images @MultiDoc!

The steering links are indeed the weakest link, but they shouldn't come out that easy. I can do this without any problems:

Are you sure you're having the parts in place that should lock the towballs? The parts that have half their pins sticking out. It should look like this (I left the suspension arm out):

800x450.jpg

As for the clicking of the Servo. I don't have that. Isn't the gear slipping? That can happen when you forget to install the two thin 2L levers underneath the gearrack:

800x450.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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@MultiDoc, there is one more thing that could be the issue with the ticking of the steering. Underneath the headlights sits a light-bluish-gray dog-bone piece. The long axles inserted in this piece, which run all the way to the gear rack side of the module, should stick out half a stud. If the ones at the top side of the dog-bone piece are inserted deaper, they will interfere with the gear operating the gear rack. That could cause a rattling sound during steering.

Edited by Didumos69

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 @Didumos69

update: I investigated as best as I could. I found a mistake I made and fixed the “clicking” of the steering. It appears I had wrongly used two 12L axles instead of 10L (I believe that’s in step 137 or around there in the instructions) and therefore they were protruding at the back and made contact with the gear when steering. So I replaced with the correct 10L ones and it’s sorted.

 

now as for the tow ball popping out. It still does with much less force than in your video. It’s actually popping out from the beam not from the grey wishbone.

doublechecked and everything is correctly installed and in place. I’m out of ideas still. Using glue will be my last resort.

Just now, Didumos69 said:

@MultiDoc, there is one more thing that could be the issue with the ticking of the steering. Underneath the headlights sits a light-bluish-gray dog-bone piece. The long axles inserted in this piece, which run all the way to the gear rack side of the module, should stick out half a stud. If the ones at the top side of the dog-bone piece are inserted deaper, they will interfere with the gear operating the gear rack. That could cause a rattling sound.

Lol it seems we were typing simultaneously 

Edited by MultiDoc

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On 11/30/2018 at 11:58 PM, MultiDoc said:

doublechecked and everything is correctly installed and in place. I’m out of ideas still. Using glue will be my last resort.

Maybe try newer parts? Is it always the same side that comes loose or both sides? Don't use glue. As a last resort, do this, but you have to take the front apart up to the gear rack and make sure the screw does not stick out.

 

Edited by Didumos69

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I already thought of that since it’s the left that only comes out. Despite having used only new parts I just replaced the tow bar with a new one and will check tomorrow how it holds up.

otherwise I’ll use that excellent tip of yours and use the screw.

cheers !

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On 7/6/2018 at 9:27 AM, SilenWin said:

Another week, another update :laugh:

Now Greyhound can crawl over some serious obstacles thanks to planetary gear reduction inside wheels!

I try to make some photo review with all changes I make, and share it with you, guys, as soon as possible. :sweet:

Any news about this interesting MOD. Planetary gear reduction inside wheels is realy interesting...

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1 hour ago, nikbok said:

Any news about this interesting MOD. Planetary gear reduction inside wheels is realy interesting...

Yes. @SilenWin posted a link to a digital design of his portal hubs in this thread:

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So I spent a good 3-4 hours to take apart the front up to the servo and installed these tiny bolts on the back of the tow bar pins to reinforce them, in hoping that they will be staying put.

Didnt have the chance to try it yet but will test drive it after work today. Will let you know how it performs.

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On 12/4/2018 at 9:41 AM, MultiDoc said:

So I spent a good 3-4 hours to take apart the front up to the servo and installed these tiny bolts on the back of the tow bar pins to reinforce them, in hoping that they will be staying put.

Didnt have the chance to try it yet but will test drive it after work today. Will let you know how it performs.

Any news? I hope it runs fine now.

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1 hour ago, Didumos69 said:

Any news? I hope it runs fine now.

Yeap,

 I folowed your advise/tip with using the bolt on the back of the tow ball to secure it in place and it worked wonderfully. Ive crash tested the buggy and its rock solid now. Very pleased.

I noticed however that I might have done a mistake somewhere on re-assembly because the front wheels now are pointing just slightly off center to the right when the steering is in the center. I think that I probably misaligned the teeth maybe, but will have to (again) disassemble to see and fix. 

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I updated the description on rebrickable with this note:

Update
2018/12/08 - During rough rides the first and only link that can disconnect are the pins with towball that connect the gearrack assembly to the steering links. If you want to take this model to the limit, it's advisable to use set-screws to secure the pins. Drive the screws all the way in. They should surpass the outer ridges of the pin:

640x360.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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After a long break for Christmas break and winter break, I am back to building; more specifically finishing the build on this.  I am almost done but have noticed the buwizz batteries will not be able to come out the bottom because a 4 * 6 bent lift arm is blocking it.  I had assumed if the red pins were not installed this would be an easy removal but it seems like the entire side of the body needs to be removed to get the battery out?  Am I missing something?

Superb build by the way. It is extremely sturdy, and I can see you like to incorporate the perfect triangle.

 

Edited by technic_addict

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1 hour ago, technic_addict said:

After a long break for Christmas break and winter break, I am back to building; more specifically finishing the build on this.  I am almost done but have noticed the buwizz batteries will not be able to come out the bottom because a 4 * 6 bent lift arm is blocking it.  I had assumed if the red pins were not installed this would be an easy removal but it seems like the entire side of the body needs to be removed to get the battery out?  Am I missing something?

Superb build by the way. It is extremely sturdy, and I can see you like to incorporate the perfect triangle.

Thanks and good to know you're building again. Leaving out the red pins is indeed to make it more easy to take out the Buwizzes. You first need to remove the bent liftarms: 1) first push back the 4L axle with endstop - but not further than necessary - so you can remove the black pieces right in front of the flanks. 2) then remove the red connectors with pin with towballs inserted and 3) finally remove the black pins with axle-hole adjacent to the bent liftarms. Now you should be able to remove the bent liftarms. I'll add some pictures later.

Edited by Didumos69

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6 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

Thanks and good to know you're building again. Leaving out the red pins is indeed to make it more easy to take out the Buwizzes. You first need to remove the bent liftarms: 1) first push back the 4L axle with endstop - but not further than necessary - so you can remove the black pieces right in front of the flanks. 2) then remove the red connectors with pin with towballs inserted and 3) finally remove the black pins with axle-hole adjacent to the bent liftarms. Now you should be able to remove the bent liftarms. I'll add some pictures later.

This will allow you to remove the bent liftarms:

800x450.jpg800x450.jpg800x450.jpg800x450.jpg

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7 hours ago, gregorski904 said:

 

So you have 10 of those large shocks :wub:?!

Edited by Didumos69

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15 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

This will allow you to remove the bent liftarms:

 

Thanks for providing pics!  Will make a mental note.  I have many buwizz but I also have many models so unfortunately they all need to share :classic:

I should be done today a colour scheme I have not seen built yet.....I think.

 

 

12 hours ago, gregorski904 said:

46912641842_70bf2a8b30.jpg

Curious as to why you added an extra spring to each rear wheel?  Is there a benefit? Is it the look of the higher back end stance?  Can you provide additional pictures please?

Edited by technic_addict

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