Didumos69

[MOC] Greyhound 4WD RC Buggy /w instructions - Improved rim-hub connection

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There’s multiple ways...

One of them is using Stud.io to export it directly to Bricklink. Just log in or create an account, look at the top right of the program, and export the parts list. 

You can also download the LDD file and create a custom list on Rebrickable. It accepts LDD files, and from Rebrickable you can fix some colour errors a bit easier than Bricklink and then export it to a Bricklink list. 

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Great project. As a GBC builder this would be my first Technic RC build (next to my RC Wall-E) but plan on building it, thanks for the development and free design files. Dank je Diederik!

On 5/11/2018 at 10:54 PM, Didumos69 said:

To minimize wear, it is advisable to lubricate the turntables and the springs with silicon spray (don't use any other (petrol based) lubricants as they will react with ABS)

I use PTFE applied with a brush because silicon spray broke ALL my 24T gears in my GBCs. I assume the impact modifier in ABS dissolves in the silicon carrier in the spray. WD40 PTFE spay does not have this issue I can say after running the GBC's for over 150h.

Edited by Berthil

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Amazing model. Seems like a lot of fun to play.

Have you tested the latest brick controller app? I'm curious if you find is any difference in the lag.

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On 11/7/2018 at 5:10 PM, Berthil said:

Great project. As a GBC builder this would be my first Technic RC build (next to my RC Wall-E) but plan on building it, thanks for the development and free design files. Dank je Diederik!

I use PTFE applied with a brush because silicon spray broke ALL my 24T gears in my GBCs. I assume the impact modifier in ABS dissolves in the silicon carrier in the spray. WD40 PTFE spay does not have this issue I can say after running the GBC's for over 150h.

You're welcome! I will follow you're advice regarding WD40. I will use that for the bigger turn-tables I'm using now. I guess I was lucky with the silicon-spray I used, because the smaller turn-tables didn't get damaged. Btw, you might want to consider using the latest file. It has all the latest changes (big turn tables, strong steering links).

On 11/7/2018 at 10:24 PM, iuliand said:

Amazing model. Seems like a lot of fun to play.

Have you tested the latest brick controller app? I'm curious if you find is any difference in the lag.

Thanks! I tested the brick controller app v2 today, but there is still too much lag to make it work for this model. Especially steering is a problem.

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Instructions are online. If there is anything unclear, please let me know.

Edited by Didumos69

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7 hours ago, AFOLegofan66 said:

Up to step 100 and it is an awesome build...thanks for the instructions!!i

Good to know! Hope everything works out fine. Be sure not to confuse 99773 (Technic Beam Triangle Thin - Type 2) used inside the front suspension module with 2905 (Technic Beam Triangle Thin - Type 1).

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@Didumos69 is there a difference or what is the reasoning for choosing WD40 PTFE over a silcone spray?  I noticed WD40 mentions not to spray on Polycarbonate and although the plastic is most likely ABS it might be a PC/ABS mix.  I don't if there are any long term effects?

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5 hours ago, technic_addict said:

@Didumos69 is there a difference or what is the reasoning for choosing WD40 PTFE over a silcone spray?  I noticed WD40 mentions not to spray on Polycarbonate and although the plastic is most likely ABS it might be a PC/ABS mix.  I don't if there are any long term effects?

May be because of my remark. I'm designing and running (complex) GBC machines and most of them have run over 150h of which 7h straight on event days.
Silicone spray broke all of my 24t gears, PTFE doesn't.

Edited by Berthil

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5 hours ago, technic_addict said:

@Didumos69 is there a difference or what is the reasoning for choosing WD40 PTFE over a silcone spray?  I noticed WD40 mentions not to spray on Polycarbonate and although the plastic is most likely ABS it might be a PC/ABS mix.  I don't if there are any long term effects?

15 minutes ago, Berthil said:

May be because of my remark. I'm designing and running (complex) GBC machines and most of them have run over 150h of which 7h straight on event days.
Silicone spray broke all of my 24t gears, PTFE doesn't.

I took the advice shared by @Berthil in this thread, but there are also other suggestions in that thread. Note that not all WD40 is PTFE spray. I forgot about that when I compiled the instructions, so I accidently put the wrong WD40 image in my instructions, the text was correct though. I've corrected the image. This is the corrected image:

800x450.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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I found these images from users Belair58 and GBCPeter on doctor-brick.de, which show a way to assemble cheap hard 9.5L springs:

640x360.jpg640x360.jpg

Edited by Didumos69

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6 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

I took the advice shared by @Berthil in this thread, but there are also other suggestions in that thread. Note that not all WD40 is PTFE spray. I forgot about that when I compiled the instructions, so I accidently put the wrong WD40 image in my instructions, the text was correct though. I've corrected the image. This is the corrected image:

I am sure you mentioned it during your build but I have forgotten, did you use silicone and or WD40 PTFE during all your testing?  I recall the smaller hubs becoming looser at one point but maybe you used no lubricant at that time?

One additional question, is it easy to spray inside the turntable after it is assembled (through holes and rotating) or is better to apply the lubricant before assembly?

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Just now, technic_addict said:

I am sure you mentioned it during your build but I have forgotten, did you use silicone and or WD40 PTFE during all your testing?  I recall the smaller hubs becoming looser at one point but maybe you used no lubricant at that time?

I started off without lubrication and did indeed experience the smaller hubs to become looser. After installing new ones I lubricated them, but with silicon spray. This worked better, but silicon spray was not the right choice, even though I did not experience real problems.

4 minutes ago, technic_addict said:

One additional question, is it easy to spray inside the turntable after it is assembled (through holes and rotating) or is better to apply the lubricant before assembly?

It is better to apply the lubricant before assembly. You don't want to spoil lubricant on any axles that are not supposed to slip out of any axle holes. The turn-table was very hard to lubricate, because I didn't want to dismantle it. I was affraid to damage it and introduce unintended friction.

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13 minutes ago, technic_addict said:

One additional question, is it easy to spray inside the turntable after it is assembled (through holes and rotating) or is better to apply the lubricant before assembly?

For GBC I only apply PTFE with a brush (or cotton bud) where there is friction, no need to spray everything.
This should be done during assembly.

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Just now, Didumos69 said:

I started off without lubrication and did indeed experience the smaller hubs to become looser. After installing new ones I lubricated them, but with silicon spray. This worked better, but silicon spray was not the right choice, even though I did not experience real problems.

It is better to apply the lubricant before assembly. You don't want to spoil lubricant on any axles that are not supposed to slip out of any axle holes. The turn-table was very hard to lubricate, because I didn't want to dismantle it. I was affraid to damage it and introduce unintended friction.

 

Just now, Berthil said:

For GBC I only apply PTFE with a brush (or cotton bud) where there is friction, no need to spray everything.
This should be done during assembly.

 

I am glad I asked before snapping all the turntables together, I did snap one but decided to proceed with questions before continuing with the instructions.

I will give the WD40 PTFE spray a go and get back into the build in a couple of days.

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59 minutes ago, Berthil said:

For GBC I only apply PTFE with a brush (or cotton bud) where there is friction, no need to spray everything.
This should be done during assembly.

In this case it is about lubricating individual parts (turn-table internals and shock-absorber internals), so I think doing it before assembly is better. The shock-absorbers have been designed in a way that the compression force is not completely longitudinal. The lubrication is only to make the shock itself compress and decompress more fluently.

Edited by Didumos69

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I started rebuilding using the instructions myself. In that process I also cleaned my 9.5L shockabsorbers. They still had silicon spray on them.

960x540.jpg

On a funny side note, I made the photo sequence instructions in a more or less public space on the University of Twente. I took two days off last week. The space is quite big, there is a lot of light and there is a coffee-corner nearby. What I didn't know, was that on the second day the University had organized an 'open day' for future students. The space where I was gradually taking my Greyhound apart was crowded with youngsters and there parents all day. The general perception was that I was a planned exhibition, part of the 'open day'. I got a lot of questions and it turned out to be great fun to be a little bit part of the event.

Edited by Didumos69

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New to the forums and I must admit that your creation made me drool over it. I went ahead and bought the instructions (thanks so much for making them available!) and now I’m waiting for parts to arrive to start building it.

A few questions if I may and p,ease correc5 me if I’m wrong:

Do I need 2 x Buzzwizz ?

What’s the preferable way to install the tires ? In fact which tyres would be best to get ?

Has there been any changes/updates that are not yet implemented in the instructions that I’d need to be aware of ?

 

thanks in advance and again I really appreciate your efforts.

Edited by MultiDoc

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17 hours ago, MultiDoc said:

New to the forums and I must admit that your creation made me drool over it. I went ahead and bought the instructions (thanks so much for making them available!) and now I’m waiting for parts to arrive to start building it.

A few questions if I may and p,ease correc5 me if I’m wrong:

Do I need 2 x Buzzwizz ?

What’s the preferable way to install the tires ? In fact which tyres would be best to get ?

Has there been any changes/updates that are not yet implemented in the instructions that I’d need to be aware of ?

 

thanks in advance and again I really appreciate your efforts.

Thanks for your interest! Yes, you need 2 Buwizzes.

The instructions incorporate all latest changes.

The preferred inner tires are the 44771 tires. The outer tires need to be the CLAAS tires. The way to install the tires is like this:

 

Edited by Didumos69

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@Didumos69 can you check the rotation of your turn table?  My turntable with no WD40 PTFE spray spins freely several revolutions, after the spray, it doesn't spin freely and at most does one revolution.  I am just holding one side and flicking the other side with my finger to spin it.

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It does indeed not rotate freely when holding one side and flicking the other side, so I don't think you need to worry.

For a good comparison between before and after lubricating, you would need to take into account the force applied by the weight of the finished model, which is about 500gr per turn-table. This force works orthogonal to the rotation plane. In my own build I started without lubricating the bigger turn-tables. But after some test-drives I noticed plastic dust and the black side of the turn-table would also not rotate as freely as it did when the parts were new. So I lubricated the the turn-tables, which was hard, because they were already assembled.

The lubricant is not only to keep the turn-tables rotate smoothly, but also to protect them against wear. It is important though, to not apply too much lubricant, for it shouldn't pile up inside the turn-table. But the effect you are experiencing is perfectly normal.

Edited by Didumos69

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On 11/20/2018 at 9:29 AM, Didumos69 said:

On a funny side note, I made the photo sequence instructions in a more or less public space on the University of Twente. I took two days off last week. The space is quite big, there is a lot of light and there is a coffee-corner nearby. What I didn't know, was that on the second day the University had organized an 'open day' for future students. The space where I was gradually taking my Greyhound apart was crowded with youngsters and there parents all day. The general perception was that I was a planned exhibition, part of the 'open day'. I got a lot of questions and it turned out to be great fun to be a little bit part of the event.

This is awesome :laugh::wub:

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2 hours ago, Didumos69 said:

It does indeed not rotate freely when holding one side and flicking the other side, so I don't think you need to worry.

For a good comparison between before and after lubricating, you would need to take into account the force applied by the weight of the finished model, which is about 500gr per turn-table. This force works orthogonal to the rotation plane. In my own build I started without lubricating the bigger turn-tables. But after some test-drives I noticed plastic dust and the black side of the turn-table would also not rotate as freely as it did when the parts were new. So I lubricated the the turn-tables, which was hard, because they were already assembled.

The lubricant is not only to keep the turn-tables rotate smoothly, but also to protect them against wear. It is important though, to not apply too much lubricant, for it shouldn't pile up inside the turn-table. But the effect you are experiencing is perfectly normal.

Thanks :thumbup:

I sprayed some into a ceramic bowl and used a Q-tip to apply on surfaces.  Seemed a lot neater solution than trying to spray everywhere.

Edited by technic_addict

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