Robin_IV

[WIP] - HMS Providence - 34 gun frigate

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1 hour ago, Anders T said:

Magnificent. :pir-wub:

 [...]

Thank you. It makes me very happy that you like my model. :)

1 hour ago, Anders T said:

Moreover, I am a nitpicker:pir_wacko:: In my opinion, the masts are a bit too tall for a ship from this period. Other ships could have masts this tall, but 18th century frigates the main mast height tended to be about the same as the length from stern to firgurehead

I have measured out my model. The red frame is a square:
zzq9jK9.png

Seems to be correct. :pir_laugh2::pir-blush:

17 minutes ago, xyaks said:

wow.... very impressive good job

Nice to hear that you like my little cockleshell . :wink:

Edited by Robin_IV

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14 hours ago, Anders T said:

From keel to top:wink:

-.- Ok. Will rework it. :grin: Yes your are indeed a nitpicker. :wink:

Edited by Robin_IV

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building this in real bricks i think you will find the 2x2 round brick is not wide enough.looks ok in LDD but too small in my opinion

LI4MvlEl.jpg

after seeing your cannons etc i need to rebuild a lot of mine,yours are so much more realistic

VH3jqkNl.jpg

FhjlOlvl.jpg

HMS Triconmalee  minifig scale

 

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Posted (edited)
On 3/4/2019 at 9:17 PM, jim7564 said:

building this in real bricks i think you will find the 2x2 round brick is not wide enough.looks ok in LDD but too small in my opinion

I found resources of historical Mast thickness in comparison to the thickest part of the hull. I tested 3x3 masts. But they are too thick. The 2x2 are the only one fitting from the thickness. I tested it with calculating the values. 2x2 masts are the perfect thickness for my hullwidth. I recommend this book as a source. It's made for model builders but it works perfectly for lego builders. I know there is a english version of this book but can't find it at the moment.

I'm happy that you like my cannons :)

 

@all I've updated the part count in the last update post. Take a look. I have decided to build this ship when I finished my bachelor in two and a half years. This is why:    :)

LhGrROq.png

A few wallpapers from Studio 2.0. Yes! I managed to get all files on one.  :classic: I needed two hours for this. I hope you like them anyway.

(The hoses on bow and stern are not actually there because Studio can't indetify LSynth parts.)

UU9wbnh.png?1

GK1myFj.jpg

etOl7DO.jpg

G4HUdkJ.jpg

RhkPqW4.png

Edited by Robin_IV

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Posted (edited)
On 3/4/2019 at 5:45 PM, BadSisko said:

Awesome ship!  Have you started building yet?

Nope :)

@jim7564 Could you send a detailed picture of your steering wheel? :grin: I am interested in a custom one. Or is this a wagon wheel?

_____

Edit: As you can see I resized the masts and reworked minor things on the ship. Also the front decoration is updated. And the cannons on my pictures  are always outdated versions. I can't let them as they are. But the Shape of the cannons will not change. I am just trying out if the Pin Connector 1L or 2L is better working. ATM I use only 2L. Is easier to connect. But the slots do look ugly. The old mold is a bit too expensive. Maybe the front one of the connectors will be the only one.

Edited by Robin_IV

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beautiful, congratulations ... it's better than a wooden model !!!! masterpiece

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On 3/15/2019 at 11:48 AM, peppe1983 said:

 

beautiful, congratulations ... it's better than a wooden model !!!! masterpiece

Thank you! Of course it's better! It's out of LEGO-Bricks! :pir-grin:

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On 3/22/2019 at 4:42 PM, Robin_IV said:

Thank you! Of course it's better! It's out of LEGO-Bricks! :pir-grin:

Yeah, why don't people ever get it?:)

Sehr schönes Schiff!

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Amazing work!

You really nailed the shape of the hull.

I keep thinking it's probably as difficult to make this in a digital way than doing it with real bricks.

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Posted (edited)

Wow, I totally forgot about the new rendering. Incredible work!

Tell me, when you are done building it in real bricks. Can't wait to see a video from Held der Steine about it:D

 

I myself find it harder to build digitally. I would like to claim the missing haptic component to be the reason, but most likely it is just lack of practice.

Edited by Wellesley

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Posted (edited)

BEEP BEEP *Bump*

Hello Fellows. Thank you so much for you feedback and interest. 

It was a stupid idea from me to build a MOC of that size. The problem is I really want to build it.  But I'm to young (21) to have enough money >1500€ for that at once. So I have to wait a few years. :)

But besides that, the hull is far from ready to start to build it. I have not much experience with the behavior of the bricks when I just fill it with bricks like a normal wall I'm concerned that the hull will bend and torque. It should have more of a stable skeleton structure (to save bricks). And there is the problem because I have no Idea how to solve this problem. I know the best would be to built it IRL. 

So I decided to share the Files with you. Maybe you can take a look on it. The full ship is there for orientation to see, where the hull parts I edit will sit. You can drag and drop them out in Studio 2.0.

On the left side I already started my try. But I'm not happy with the results. Maybe you can take a look. :) (LDR files can be opened in Studio as well. 100% compatible)

The dimensions are within the area I built in. the top part where the black tiles start are not the problem for me so you dont have to bother with this area. Just the general inner structure.

Full_Ship.io

Hull_LEFT_Side.ldr

Hull_RIGHT_Side.ldr

Thanks and greetings.:pir-blush:

Edited by Robin_IV

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Hi @Robin_IV! Thanks for the update, and don't worry too much about it. There is a time for everything, and one day you'll come back to this project. And when you do, let us know!

I understand what you mean, being 22 myself and lacking the massive budget of other users on this forum. :grin: But keep at it!

 

MAC

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You are right to assume, that you cannot just build along as if it was a house.

 

PARTS:

A ship this size is quite heavy. First, I would recommend dividing it into parts.

 

I usually divide my ships in a lower and upper hull.

This means that the lower hull is all about strength and that the upper hull has a flat bottom. This is a great advantage when you work on the different details.

On a ship of this length, I would also consider dividing the upper hull into two parts. (Aft and fore)

 

LOWER HULL

The lower hull needs to be just as strong, if not stronger, than if it was a prefab hull.

The exact structure depends on how the orientation of the pieces that make up the hull shape is oriented.

From what I can see you have (wisely) limited yourself to a mainly sideways orientation.

 

I would recommend overlapping plates and a square grid-structure.

You could use technic-connections, but have never used it on a lower hull.

The bow and the stern present a special challenge. Here is bricks mounted in different orientations to achieve the changes from the general hull shape.

 

UPPER HULL

If you decide to leave the upper hull as one piece, you definitely need a technic core to take the moment. (bend and torque)

I used a plate of technic beams on HMS Surprise and that worked very well.

The bow needs to be especially strong at the points supporting the bowsprit.

I usually make a stern that just holds together. It needs to be a splash of intricate designs and it only really has to hold itself.

The masts needs to have their base inside the hull. This is to counter the moment. (bend and torque)

 

MASTS AND RIGGING.

Be sure that your masts have sticks or technic axels running through most (all) of the structure.

Brick-connections won’t cut it.

Have your rigging planned before attempting to mount the masts. The main rigging parts is what holds your masts sturdy.

 

AN EXAMPLE

On this LDD-file you can see what I consider as one of my more sturdy ship-models. Yep; tooting my own horn!

http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/440274

It is an example of the structure of the lower hull as described. I did not have the discipline to stick to one orientation of the lower hull, so you can probably do without most of the mess that I made, especially on the bow and stern.

It is also an example of an upper hull. This is only 90 studs long and therefore without a technic core.

 

…And this was another wall of text from Anders T:hmpf:

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On 10/8/2019 at 4:30 PM, iammac said:

And when you do, let us know!

Thanks. I will do! :)

 

20 hours ago, Anders T said:

PARTS:

A ship this size is quite heavy. First, I would recommend dividing it into parts. [Done]

I usually divide my ships in a lower and upper hull. [Done]

This means that the lower hull is all about strength and that the upper hull has a flat bottom. This is a great advantage when you work on the different details.  [Yes]

On a ship of this length, I would also consider dividing the upper hull into two parts. (Aft and fore) [OK. I have three.]

 

LOWER HULL

The lower hull needs to be just as strong, if not stronger, than if it was a prefab hull. [OK, I'll consider]

The exact structure depends on how the orientation of the pieces that make up the hull shape is oriented.

From what I can see you have (wisely) limited yourself to a mainly sideways orientation.  [Thanks]

I would recommend overlapping plates and a square grid-structure. [Ok]

You could use technic-connections, but have never used it on a lower hull. [Done]

The bow and the stern present a special challenge. Here is bricks mounted in different orientations to achieve the changes from the general hull shape. [Yes. I learned that trough my building time :D]

 

UPPER HULL

If you decide to leave the upper hull as one piece, you definitely need a technic core to take the moment. (bend and torque) [Done]

I used a plate of technic beams on HMS Surprise and that worked very well. [I'll post a pic.]

The bow needs to be especially strong at the points supporting the bowsprit. [Ok. Didn't know that!]

I usually make a stern that just holds together. It needs to be a splash of intricate designs and it only really has to hold itself. [This is what I have to look for]

The masts needs to have their base inside the hull. This is to counter the moment. (bend and torque) [Done] 

 

MASTS AND RIGGING.

Be sure that your masts have sticks or technic axels running through most (all) of the structure. [Done]

Have your rigging planned before attempting to mount the masts. The main rigging parts is what holds your masts sturdy. [Done]

BGTqyxg.png

 

The Technic Structure sits where the Orlop Deck would sit. The two rows of LBG Plate gets additional support from the Hull pieces underneath with Studs. The Goal is to build both hull pieces connect them with the middle black wall (with this huge amount of Bricks with studs on side :D) and than build on TOP of that the technic structure and the rest of the ship. The technic structure is build so that it is pull and push resistant. So theoretically I could carry the ship from above (if the clutch power of the wheather deck would hold) and the weight of the hull pieces can be carried and do not rip or break off. (Thats at least the idea but of course it makes no sense to carry a ship like this...)

Edited by Robin_IV

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