Trekkie99 Posted February 9, 2018 This is a Lego BR class 08 diesel shunter I built over the period of three days. It's built off of a train base design I made awhile back that uses the PF train motor with a third wheel set attached to the motor. Here's the train base with the cabin and front removed. The front detaches easily allowing easy access to the battery. And finally here's the motor base itself. (Note) It's important that the third wheel set be assembled by cutting a length of flexible 318 tubing (my digital caliber says 1.35 inches long), slipping it over the metal train axle, slip on two 1x2 technic bricks with stud pins in them, and finally attach the train wheels. This assembly removes any free play which allows the train to enter switches without derailing. Thanks for looking! Comments and opinions are always appreciated! Cheers LMF Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ColletArrow Posted February 9, 2018 I was wondering how long it would be until another of these showed up! I love the cab and roof shaping, and the fact you've squeezed all the PF into it - I know it's a challenge, I've built several of these beasts myself. Out of interest, how good reception do you get with the IR receiver tucked away like that? Do you think you could build a chassis using an M or L motor and a sliding/floating middle axle? I think the wide wheel spacing from the standard train motor makes it look odd, especially without the connecting rods that are so obvious on the real machines. Also the wheels feel a little small, but that's impossible to do anything about really. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Feuer Zug Posted February 9, 2018 Sweet work. Looks good and is functional too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 9, 2018 22 minutes ago, ColletArrow said: I was wondering how long it would be until another of these showed up! I love the cab and roof shaping, and the fact you've squeezed all the PF into it - I know it's a challenge, I've built several of these beasts myself. Out of interest, how good reception do you get with the IR receiver tucked away like that? Do you think you could build a chassis using an M or L motor and a sliding/floating middle axle? I think the wide wheel spacing from the standard train motor makes it look odd, especially without the connecting rods that are so obvious on the real machines. Also the wheels feel a little small, but that's impossible to do anything about really. Yeah, the reception isn't the best. I've seen a couple of very nice models that use a M motor and the larger train wheels. One of my favorites is made by @LucByard. One of the reasons I made this train was to showcase the train motor base I'd designed. While the shunter does look sort of funny in the pictures, it looks much better in real life IMHO. Originally this was a steam locomotive monorail (if that makes any sense ), but then was turned into a regular steam locomotive train and incorporated the train motor base design. (To bad I didn't take some pictures of it. Despite not being finished, it was pretty nifty.) Then more recently I decided I wanted to make my own BR class 08 diesel shunter (my favorite train BTW), and I decided to build it off of my train motor base design. Three days later and voilà! My very own BR class 08 diesel shunter! Understandably it's not perfect, and there are way better recreations of this particular shunter out there, but I like how it turned out. I also had a ton of fun building it! Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LEGO Train 12 Volts Posted February 9, 2018 Very nice! I like how you've managed all the PF components inside the train! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 9, 2018 Just now, LEGO Train 12 Volts said: Very nice! I like how you've managed all the PF components inside the train! Thanks! With a seven wide cabin and a (roughly) five wide front, it was fairly easy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger of Bricks Posted February 9, 2018 Ooooh, such deviously oily diesel you've done there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 9, 2018 18 minutes ago, Digger of Bricks said: Ooooh, such deviously oily diesel you've done there. *snip* That's a line from the old TV show right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Digger of Bricks Posted February 9, 2018 19 minutes ago, LegoMonorailFan said: That's a line from the old TV show right? I believe those qualifiers come from one of the names of the episodes/stories, something like "Diesel and his Devious Deeds", while "oily" I'm pretty sure was an adjective used to describe the character in the original stories. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 10, 2018 So I'm doing a little fiddling around with receiver trying to make it come out of the cabin roof, without making the cabin roof look ugly. A little tricky since the cabin is seven wide. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 10, 2018 I've designed two roof designs, with the first being the preferable choice. I included the second one if by chance anyone thought it worked better. Regards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ColletArrow Posted February 10, 2018 Hmm. It's a shame to have to break up the cab roofline, but it should definitely improve reliability. Could it be possible to change the receiver's position such that it protrudes out the engine compartment's roof rather than the cab's? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 10, 2018 15 minutes ago, ColletArrow said: Hmm. It's a shame to have to break up the cab roofline, but it should definitely improve reliability. Could it be possible to change the receiver's position such that it protrudes out the engine compartment's roof rather than the cab's? Hmm. Well there is two studs worth of length in the engine compartment that the battery box doesn't take up, so it may be possible. I'll give it a try! Thanks for the suggestion! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 11, 2018 Nope, no room. The top of the receiver isn't able to protrude out of the top of the engine compartment. And even If it could, the wire would have to pass over the top of the receiver. However if anyone has any suggestions for the cabin roof please let me know! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M_slug357 Posted February 11, 2018 On my Class 08, I was able to place the receiver at the very back of the hood, right where it meets the cab (which is also 7 studs wide): Class 08 (5) by Nick Jackson, on Flickr But really, it only trades one problem for another. The cab roof is all one piece, but now there's a 2 stud long break in the curvature of the hood. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zephyr1934 Posted February 11, 2018 Amazing that you were able to fit all of the PF in to such a tiny and good looking moc like that. "my digital caliber says 1.35 inches long", now that is precision building (grin). One thought for the receiver, could you lay it with studs to the back of the loco so the receiver is out of the back wall of the cab? Won't be as good reception as out the roof, but it would probably be a trade-off worth considering. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paperinik77pk Posted February 11, 2018 I love this one!!! Nice, small, compact, everything squeezed inside...great!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hallidaynick Posted February 11, 2018 Nice little design, i like the size of it. Well Done I've been working on one myself, however in 8 wide, with on board decoupling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 11, 2018 27 minutes ago, Paperinik77pk said: I love this one!!! Nice, small, compact, everything squeezed inside...great!!! Thanks! I'm glad you like it. 16 minutes ago, hallidaynick said: Nice little design, i like the size of it. Well Done I've been working on one myself, however in 8 wide, with on board decoupling. Thanks! Cool! Hope to see some pictures of yours when it's finished! 16 hours ago, zephyr1934 said: Amazing that you were able to fit all of the PF in to such a tiny and good looking moc like that. "my digital caliber says 1.35 inches long", now that is precision building (grin). One thought for the receiver, could you lay it with studs to the back of the loco so the receiver is out of the back wall of the cab? Won't be as good reception as out the roof, but it would probably be a trade-off worth considering. I have considered this option, but I don't think there's room in the design. Also, the reception when the receiver sticks out of the roof is so good, anything less would feel like it worked terrible! I'm spoiled! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zephyr1934 Posted February 12, 2018 3 hours ago, LegoMonorailFan said: I have considered this option, but I don't think there's room in the design. Also, the reception when the receiver sticks out of the roof is so good, anything less would feel like it worked terrible! I'm spoiled! Yes, can't beat the roof for reception, but out the back is better than completely inside (grin). Looking again at your first choice for the roof, it is a 7 wide cab with a pair of 1x3 curved slopes and a 1x tile for most of the roof. Why not try dropping the sensor down 1 or 2 plates so that you could put the 1x3 curved slopes over it but then leave out the 1x2 tile? I think you would only have a small decrease in reception for a better looking roof line. You could even get really fancy and put a 1x2 grill tile over the sensor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 12, 2018 33 minutes ago, zephyr1934 said: Yes, can't beat the roof for reception, but out the back is better than completely inside (grin). Looking again at your first choice for the roof, it is a 7 wide cab with a pair of 1x3 curved slopes and a 1x tile for most of the roof. Why not try dropping the sensor down 1 or 2 plates so that you could put the 1x3 curved slopes over it but then leave out the 1x2 tile? I think you would only have a small decrease in reception for a better looking roof line. You could even get really fancy and put a 1x2 grill tile over the sensor I've tried this before, but decided to revisit it anyway. Sure seems to work much better this time compared to before! Instead of a 1x2 grill tile, I used 1x2 smoked translucent tiles. As long as you actually aim the controller at the receiver, everything is hunky dory. Thanks for the suggestion! This should work perfectly! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baard Posted February 12, 2018 My solution for the receiver, use 2 transparent tiles on the cab roof. This shunter has 1L motor for propulsion, 1 M motor for retractable magnet/decoupler. Reception of IR signals without major trouble Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 12, 2018 Awesome model @baard! That's a lot of function packed into such a small model! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zetroc Posted February 12, 2018 I guess this is going to get a whole lot easier with PF 2.0 and its combined battery and receiver. I've stopped work on my own 08 pending the introduction of the new system. I want - sorry, my boy wants - as compact a unit as possible with a working cab for a minifig. I guess the only way we're going to get an official Lego shunter is if they do a Star Wars one. I wouldn't put it past them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trekkie99 Posted February 12, 2018 8 minutes ago, Zetroc said: I guess the only way we're going to get an official Lego shunter is if they do a Star Wars one. I wouldn't put it past them. Yeah, maybe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites