NathanR

How do you build a solid base for a large MOC?

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I'm trying to connect multiple 16x16 and 8x16 plates together for a large-ish MOC, the base size is 56x44 studs so I can't use standard 32x32 baseplate parts.  If I build directly on top of the network of plates, the plates pop off with the slightest flex.  If I sandwich the base layer between a pair of 2xN plates running along the seams, it's a bit stronger but the 16x16 plates can twist so much that they still pop the plates off and it all falls apart.  

I've studied a lot of the official sets, but not even the Disney castle had a footprint this big. Does anyone have any tips and tricks for building a strong and rigid base, that can survive being picked up and moved around a little?

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You need to use smaller plates. 16x16 and 8x16 are too large. If you have several layers of smaller plates, there is more room to "breath" for the plates since every plate has it's own buffer. Try 2x6 or 2x8 plates.

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58 minutes ago, peedeejay said:

You need to use smaller plates. 16x16 and 8x16 are too large. If you have several layers of smaller plates, there is more room to "breath" for the plates since every plate has it's own buffer. Try 2x6 or 2x8 plates.

You mean, just build a grid of 2xN plates, like a chessboard without the squares?

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I do this all the time. An art supply store has foam board. I use two layers of 3/16" board with carpet tape between them. MUCH lighter than plywood and stiffer.

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Thanks for the suggestions, but I don't really want to go with a wooden board.  I'm trying to build a launch pad for the Lego Ideas 21309 Saturn V -  space issues mean this can't be a permanent display, I'm having to design digitally before I can order any parts, and I am thinking about a larger launch site including the Crawler Transporter. 

640x358.jpg

My original plan (top right) was just a flat base of plates, but they don't stick well to the outer wall. I have considered some sort of Architecture-style base, e.g. 6x14 plates with 2xN plates on the seams above and below (bottom left, right for different drafts), maybe some extra 2xN for further support (see below for the underside views).  @peedeejay The 2xN plates grid is a good idea, but it is very flexible.

640x358.jpg

It did cross my mind to try and put down some technic bricks and beams as a first layer of bricks, give the base some rigidity, but I'm not sure how to do this effectively (and keep the cost down!)

 

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For my apartment replica (cf signature) I used a double layer of 2x6 & 4x6 plates because when ordering parts that was the cheapest solution per stud.

I did that for my previous (smaller) apartment (photos here), but for the current one which gives a size around 70x30 studs I used a few larger plates (6x8 and a few larger) in the middle, as the 70-studs long was a little too long compared to the width that was less than 30 studs at some places.

I'd say that for a size closer to a square like what you have, it should work fine with a mix of 4xN and 2xN plates.

Edited by antp

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12 minutes ago, NathanR said:

It did cross my mind to try and put down some technic bricks and beams as a first layer of bricks, give the base some rigidity, but I'm not sure how to do this effectively (and keep the cost down!)

This is probably your best bet, honestly. It makes the base taller, which may not be desirable, but can also give you stability in multiple directions.

If you don't want to use technic bricks, then I would follow @peedeejay 's advice and use smaller plates, but I don't think they need to be 2x's. I'd say anything between 6x6 and 8x16 should be a sweet spot. That way you can just put two layers of plates directly on one another, or use 2x's along the seams and edges between two plate layers. Not having all the edges of the plates in the same row helps--stagger different sizes next to each other.

If you do go the technic brick route, building a modular base connected by pins is another option. If you will be moving the build much there is definitely an advantage there.

Edited by rodiziorobs

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For my larger MOCs I usually use a modular base system where each section consists of a baseplate (or several medium to larger plates, the cost can be similar to a large baseplate), then a partial layer of  bricks ( technic bricks on the edges, regular brick (usually 2x2's) on the inside) with a finish layer of plates (color appropriate to the MOC) on top.  The layer of interior bricks doesn't need to be solid, it just needs to support anticipated load points and span seams between plates in the upper and lower layers.    The technic edges allow the use of technic pins to assemble large bases from more manageable-sized sub modules.  Technic stud-pins can also be used to connect a decorative SNOT banding to the finished outside edge of the base. 

While this approach does use a fair bit of material and gives you a thick base (4-5 plates), I've found it to be very durable, flexible (with respect to configuring the modules to custom geometries), and leaves plenty of room for running wires for lights or motor functions.

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Some fascinating ideas, I will have to think about these.

4 hours ago, rodiziorobs said:

This is probably your best bet, honestly. It makes the base taller, which may not be desirable, but can also give you stability in multiple directions.

The actual launch-pad is to be 6 bricks high, so there's definitely room for some sort of technic frame inside. Would (say) a giant block of technic beams and frames be enough, or would it have to be fully integrated into the outer walls? At the moment I'm thinking of placing a single 6x8 technic brick with open centre over each seam, linked by 1x16 technic bricks and pins. My best guess so far is something like this:

640x358.jpg

A layer of plates, a layer of technic bricks, more bricks to make up the height, another row of technic bricks, then a final top deck of plates. Would something like this be ok, or would it still be too fragile?

1 hour ago, ShaydDeGrai said:

For my larger MOCs I usually use a modular base system where each section consists of a baseplate (or several medium to larger plates, the cost can be similar to a large baseplate), then a partial layer of  bricks ( technic bricks on the edges, regular brick (usually 2x2's) on the inside) with a finish layer of plates (color appropriate to the MOC) on top.  The layer of interior bricks doesn't need to be solid, it just needs to support anticipated load points and span seams between plates in the upper and lower layers.    

A modular construction may not be possible, I'm using 1x4x6 door frames for detailing on the outermost edge and there isn't a convenient break point the aligns with the large base plates I'm using.  Just inside the door frames will be a 1-stud thick wall (hopefully 1x6x5 wall elements), which leaves plenty of hollow space for an internal structure.  Just curious but when you talk about bricks spanning the seams, do you place them along the seam or at right angles? which is stronger?
 

Edited by NathanR

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Been toying with some designs in computer, but nothing is holding together well in real life.  Part of the problem is that I don't have many bricks to hand for testing (a pile of 2x6 bricks, a pair of 16x16 plates, etc) and the larger plates can flex a lot.  

I've tried stacking a plate, a row of bricks round the edge, then an identical plate on top, that worked really well.  But when I tried to extend it to include an additional plate to the side, and added a seam, everything started popping off at the slightest flex.  An additional plate below the whole assembly to cover the seam didn't give much added strength,  Even a wall of interlocking 2x6 bricks seemed to pop apart a little too easily... I'm starting to wonder if my pieces could have shrunk or something.  I swear the Lego bricks I had 20 years ago had much better sticking power.  Or have I just completely lost it when it comes to Lego design?

 

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