Commander Wolf

Fixing ME Models Curved Metal Rails with LEGO

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Myself, @jtlan, and @codefox421 bought a full loop of ME Models R56 metal curves way back when we still expected to get an all-metal rail design. As we all now know, the all-metal rail design proved a fantasy, and ME Models delivered Code 100 rail set in plastic holders. This track has proven extremely finicky when we've used it mainly because the Code 100 rail is not pre-bent before it is inserted into the plastic holder. This means that the "curved" track is constantly trying to straighten itself back out and subsequently alters the geometry of the plastic holder such that all the curves are too wide for the nominal radius of the curves. The then incorrect geometry makes assembling the curve very difficult as you have to force the parts into the proper curvature and they are very keen to come apart.

The most visible symptom of this issue is the relatively sharp angle between the non-contiguous sections of Code 100. This wasn't too bad when the curves were new, but it has gotten worse over time.

 

A circle of metal R56 when new

170403_me_models_r56.jpg

 

The same parts almost a year later

180127a.jpg

 

Straight metal track when removed from the holder

180127b.jpg

 

So today, myself and jtlan decided to try to rectify the issue by doing exactly what ME Models failed to do: pre-bend the rails such that they aren't messing with the geometry of the plastic holders (or at least not as much). What we ended up doing after some trial and error was building a LEGO roll bender through which you can run the Code 100 rail.

It's hard to show the rail in the rollers as someone needs to be pressing down on the assembly for it to not come apart while rolling, but this picture gives you a general idea of what's happening. You feed the rail through two of the rollers (the sides of the 3x3 disks fit somewhat nicely into the side of the Code 100 rail - do note that this will damage the disks if you roll enough track), and then it will deflect upward when it hits the third roller. This causes the rail to deform into a tighter radius than required, but it will spring back a bit due to physics.

180127c.jpg

 

The way we determined how to space the rollers was simple trial and error. The final spacing we used is shown below.

180127d.jpg

 

Here is a piece of rolled track next to the plastic holder.

180127e.jpg

 

You can see that the roller spacing we chose actually makes the curves slightly too small, but we wanted to compensate a little for the fact that we can't bend the ends that well with this method. Either way the the forces distorting the plastic holders are much smaller than before, and it should make the track easier to assemble and less prone to blowing up.

Here you can see that the connection between two pieces of rail is much smoother than before:

180127f.jpg

 

We haven't rolled our whole batch of R56 yet, so there might be more to this saga, but so far this looks promising. Anyone else experienced similar issues with the ME Models metal track and/or have tried to fix it?

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Hei Commander Wolf,

 that, once more, shows me how right it was not to invest into ME rail.... :hmpf_bad:

 

Despite this, I really like your idea of using Lego parts for a technical application (I use a turning-lathe made of technic for drilling my lamp-posts)

 

Anyway, for bending rail-profiles (somewhat bigger than gauge-1) I build a device similar to this:

Pic 1 (klick me)

 

Pic 2 (klick me again)

 

Advantange is the adjustable gap between the ballbearings, so nearly every radii is feasible. And, of course, it is very durable. I used normal flat-washers instead of the massive bushings shown under the bearings. Ballbearings are cheap ones from my local RC Model shop (around 1 Euro each), all other parts are available at normal hardware-stores. Total price was somewhat around 20 Euros....

 

However, interesting report, thaks for sharing! :thumbup:

 

Regards

BrickMusher

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Well this is a very timely topic!

I am one of the few recipients of all my ME model order, about 11 months ago now. It’s taken me that long to assemble my required (for my layout) sections which included:

 - removal of all the metal rails.

 - assembly of 1 loop each or R56/72/88 and a ½ loop R104, a dozen or so double straights.

 - gluing of all ME parts, into sections resembling LEGO track sections, so that all rails and sleepers are fixed. (The combination of poor clutch strength, and rails that were not pre bended, is like a spring loaded trap, and never going to work)

 - ballasting, per l-gauge reference instructions

And now the time has come to put the metal rails in. My approach will be a little different. I have removed all the ME metal rails, and will me installing fresh code-100 track. This is because it’s hard to bend the ends of a rail, and what I actually want a to do is bend a 12” length, and trim the ends, for a 10” final curved length.

I may be able to reuse some of the ME track, where I have longer lengths. (Those familiar with this will understand, sorry I don’t have any diagrams as yet).

I’m actually thinking of using continuous rails where possible (ie a metal rail that spans 3-4 lengths of plastic rail), because it just seems more logical when I’m not planning on changing the layout. If I can get a 1/2 loop with only a couple of pieces of track, the ride should be very smooth. I can always remove and trim it later, if I want to change the layout or if any problems occur. I may also apply this to sections where I have long straights.

So your thread, and details of your approach, is timely. I’ve had some ideas how to bend the rail, but haven’t assembled any device as yet. I may start with yours.

I do intend to put together a separate thread, when I’m done, with links to a few Flickr photos. Probably in a month or so. 

Some initial photos:

Boards 1 & 5

I need to take some of the ballasted track, which is currently in boxes awaiting assembly.

More updates in the next few weeks as I put my layout together. I have a deadline of 25th Feb, when my nephew visits!

2 hours ago, BrickMusher said:

Hei Commander Wolf,

 that, once more, shows me how right it was not to invest into ME rail.... :hmpf_bad:

 

Despite this, I really like your idea of using Lego parts for a technical application (I use a turning-lathe made of technic for drilling my lamp-posts)

 

Anyway, for bending rail-profiles (somewhat bigger than gauge-1) I build a device similar to this:

Pic 1 (klick me)

 

Pic 2 (klick me again)

 

Advantange is the adjustable gap between the ballbearings, so nearly every radii is feasible. And, of course, it is very durable. I used normal flat-washers instead of the massive bushings shown under the bearings. Ballbearings are cheap ones from my local RC Model shop (around 1 Euro each), all other parts are available at normal hardware-stores. Total price was somewhat around 20 Euros....

 

However, interesting report, thaks for sharing! :thumbup:

 

Regards

BrickMusher

Any chance we can see a photo of your lamp drilling apparatus?

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10 hours ago, cptkent said:

Any chance we can see a photo of your lamp drilling apparatus?

Yes, of course. Had a short look into my Lego-room, found several components of that lathe. Try to find my XL-Motor in one of the untouched moving-boxes during the next days. And I hope I have a lamp-post leftover. Drilled around 100-150, dont remember exactly.... we will see.

Are you only interested in that device, or in a manual about how to install LED in that Streetlamps in general? Could create a own thread with some sort of tutorial if there is demand... just give me a week or two.. :wink:

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This is very interesting. I noticed that there was something wrong with the metal curve segments but wasn't sure what it was. It sure is explosive, much worse than the all plastic curves.

If only I had a store nearby to sell me some longer sections of code 100 rail... 

Related question: are there different versions of code 100 rail with different width at the base? I've found that the groove in the ME plastic track isn't always in the middle so I've had to file down the plastic in places because the motor wheels wouldn't touch the metal...

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12 hours ago, cptkent said:

And now the time has come to put the metal rails in. My approach will be a little different. I have removed all the ME metal rails, and will me installing fresh code-100 track. This is because it’s hard to bend the ends of a rail, and what I actually want a to do is bend a 12” length, and trim the ends, for a 10” final curved length.

Yes! This is actually the "correct" way to do it if you want to go all out. You should bend new Code 100 rail to the correct radius and then cut the appropriate length segments out of that larger curve piece. As mentioned, this will ensure that you have the right curvature even through the ends of individual sections. We were, admittedly, not hardcore enough to go the entire way :blush:

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2 hours ago, BrickMusher said:

Yes, of course. Had a short look into my Lego-room, found several components of that lathe. Try to find my XL-Motor in one of the untouched moving-boxes during the next days. And I hope I have a lamp-post leftover. Drilled around 100-150, dont remember exactly.... we will see.

Are you only interested in that device, or in a manual about how to install LED in that Streetlamps in general? Could create a own thread with some sort of tutorial if there is demand... just give me a week or two.. :wink:

Both the device and the installation.

I should note, lamps and lighting are a fairly low priority for me at the moment, with all the trackwork I have going on. But I am interested, and others may well be as well.

26 minutes ago, Commander Wolf said:

Yes! This is actually the "correct" way to do it if you want to go all out. You should bend new Code 100 rail to the correct radius and then cut the appropriate length segments out of that larger curve piece. As mentioned, this will ensure that you have the right curvature even through the ends of individual sections. We were, admittedly, not hardcore enough to go the entire way :blush:

'Hardcore' or 'Crazy'. Im just after the easiest option, both to construct, and prevent problems and reconstruction in the future. If I have to go a little further to prevent problems, I will. Stay tuned!

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As another recipient of the metal rail, I too took far too long to actually use it, as I got it last January and then tried to build my Christmas layout in late November.

I was extremely disappointed with the rail, and thought they just messed up which radius parts they put together (I was assuming it was much larger radius than what I ordered).  Now I know.

I am also interested in the LED lamp posts - I have a handful of them I bought after getting a handful of lifelite eLites, but I think I will go with the nanolites if I get more - they are newer and I haven't tried them yet.

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Oh wow - it is deeply disappointing to hear about the quality of metal rails after this long a wait for many of you. I personally did not buy any ME Models tracks though.

However! The concept of using code 100 tracks in LEGO adapters is very promising! It allows for DIY tracks, curves, switches and crossings.

I am rather keen on the thought of using PF and a DCC decoder to eliminate the drawbacks of PF. But that's a bit off-topic.

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Here's my rail bender:

The saga of the Me-Models 9V rails

It actually works quite well.

To do things properly, it takes a few passes to get a bent rail - its easier to bend than remove kinks! I start off with the axle pieces further apart, and as the track bends, move them closer together. When done, I trim to length.

A single rail does ~1/8 of a loop, or 3 'track modules'. I can trim shorter later if required, but leaving the rails as long as possible reduces joins.

The track does not need to be completely straight, just 'more bent than straight', to take the tension out of the track.

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We were able to roll the rest of our track over the weekend, and I'm quite happy with the result. Visually there isn't actually too much of a difference: since we didn't do anything about rolling the ends, you can still see a slight angle between sections of Code 100... but the mechanically the track is much easier to assemble and feels much less finicky.

One more thing we did to facilitate assembly/disassembly is slightly loosen the Code 100 connector on the side that's supposed to detach such that it stays on the side it came on when you pull track apart. Less force is also required to push the rails together, and lowers the chance of shifting the rails in the holders.

180206a.jpg

 

180206b.jpg

 

@cptkent nice to see you've made your own bender! Hope it works out well!

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