Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

I'm new to Eurobricks and I want to show you my [WIP]-moc of a german BR 01 513 steam locomotive. This is my first moc and I have spent 6 month until now to create it. As I'm not a train specialist there might be a lot of mistakes and missed details :) 

The scale is something around 1:42 and for now 1300 PCS are used. A power functions train engine is located in the tender. The whole model is able to run on small lego curves but there's still much work to do to make it look smooth.

Please let me know what you think. Any constructive feedback is welcome:) 

Cheers

Chris

 

 

Hallo an Alle,

ich bin neu hier und möchte kurz mein [WIP]-Modell einer BR 01 513 vorstellen. Dies ist mein erster Moc-Versuch und es fehlt noch Einiges, aber ich dachte mir ich hole mir mal etwas Feedback und Verbesserungsvorschläge. Die Arbeit an diesem Model begann vor etwa 6 Monaten. Gleich vorweg: Ich bin kein Spezialist in Sachen Eisenbahn, weshalb bestimmt einige Fehler dabei sind. Auch ob die 01 513 in dieser Konfiguration mit Öl-Tender und der Seitenverkleidung so existiert hat, weiß ich ehrlich gesagt nicht.:) Der Modellbauhersteller Beckmann hat (hatte?) zumindest eine solche Lok in seinem Sortiment...

Das Ganze ist etwa in 1:42 und umfasst bislang 1300 Steine. Im Tender sind ein Power Functions Zugmotor und ein Empfänger untergebracht. Die Lok kann momentan auf den kleinen Radien fahren, allerdings sieht es noch etwas holprig aus. 

 

Über konstruktives Feedback würde ich mich sehr freuen. Einen schönen Sonntag für Euch

Chris

 

BR01-513-1.jpg

BR01-513-4.jpg

BR01-513-5.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a really fantastic first attempt. I'm a fan of the Bulleid Boxpok wheels that you've got there. It's a very detailed locomotive. What does everyone think about giving FLBRICKS a mention on the front page? I'm really impressed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's really neat, especially impressive for a first MOC. Mine were never that good to begin with! Could you show some pictures with the loco larger in the frame, and slightly more of it in focus? Some pictures of details would be welcome too. Excellent work overall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to Eurobricks! And a stunning work as a first appearance! Hope you enjoy it here at EB and Train Tech and we look forward to see more of your creations!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very, very impressive! :wub:
The skirting looks so smooth, and there are so many details. :thumbup::thumbup:

As you're asking for constructive feedback, I'd like to add two remarks: First, as previous posters said, we'd be able to appreciate your creation even more if you could show some more detailed photos. And second, the smoke deflectors seem a bit too big for me. Did you try to reduce their height by one row of studs? (Don't get me wrong - that's just nitpicking, your MOC is great. :classic:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you all for your positive feedback:) I'm glad you like it. As I'm a noob in taking pictures I had some pro support. But I'll try to take some close ups as soon as possible. Meanwhile you can look at these pictures. There are three additional pics which maybe offer some more details?

Have a nice evening

@Tenderlok
You're absolutely right:) The deflectors are too big. I was struggeling with the height and tried to reduce it but ended up with too small ones. I think the right height is something between 3 and 4..:S      

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, FLBRICKS said:

As I'm a noob in taking pictures I had some pro support. But I'll try to take some close ups as soon as possible.

The photos you've shown so far are excellent overview shots, but the very specific focus makes it hard to appreciate the fine points. In the first image for example, although the firebox and cab are perfect, we can't see the tender very well which is odd as it is the foremost item in the frame.

For close-up shots, your phone camera is probably fine, if you pay attention to lighting and the autofocus. Consider this: from a 'noob' position you can only get better, and you can only get better through practice! I can't wait to see more of this gorgeous locomotive!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is your first train MOC?!?! Wow, I can only imagine what you might produce for your second or third effort. And it is not like you chose an easy starting point either, getting the mechanicals to work on a steam engine is no easy feat. Excellent work all around and that is a really great looking steamer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wonderfull MOC, I cannot say much on the details but the general look is very good,

just a question: how do the wheels works, what size are they (XL -XXL)? I'm interested in particular on the 3d print finishing

best regards

Sergio Monai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I uploaded a few close ups here. I hope they are meaningful.

@zephyr1934: Thank you!:thumbup: The whole drivetrain is not working as expected right now, but I'm not giving up. Maybe I'll get it to work with some more experience.:sweet:

@monai: Thank you very much. You can find the wheels here. I used the XXL ones with a diameter of 49mm which is nearly 6 studs. The surface is abrasive and the quality is neat. However, the color is a bit too bright compared to the normal red. That's why I used a tin of acrylic paint from the hardware store. The surface looks even more authentic after painting. Furthermore some holes were to tiny after 3d printing so it wasn't easy to fit the wheels to the axles. I hope this will help you. :classic:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's some stunning detail, using various building techniques. The drivetrain has to be the trickiest part of a locomotive to get right. Take your time with it. You've done a really good job on the locomotive. Again, Favourite part has to be the XXL Bulleid Boxpok style wheels.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
43 minutes ago, FLBRICKS said:

I uploaded a few close ups here. I hope they are meaningful.

@zephyr1934: Thank you!:thumbup: The whole drivetrain is not working as expected right now, but I'm not giving up. Maybe I'll get it to work with some more experience.:sweet:

Wow, there are some stunning details on that MOC!

Running gear can be a real challenge to get working well. I've always had to build and rebuild my designs until I got them working. Quick diagnostics might be as simple as flipping the locomotive over and looking for places where parts rub, collide, or otherwise not do what you want them to do. I've learned the hard way that it always helps to start by getting the running gear working before I build anything else. In this case you do not have that luxury, but if investigating the current model doesn't work or if it turns up a fatal flaw, before ripping it apart you might want to make a mock-up to test ideas. Using technic gears in place of the wheels to get the pins where you need them and just enough structure to get the other critical parts where they belong could help you quickly find a solution that works to your satisfaction. And only then, rebuild the model to match.

In case you are looking for feedback/suggestions, I assume you know or have tried most of the following, but it always helps to double check the details. Looking at your design, does the piston go in to the cylinder? If so, do you need a flex point off of the dark blay technic axle? Moving technic axles in and out of holes takes a lot of force and doing so at an angle can be particularly problematic (e.g., the stock Emerald Night design). I've found Cale's half pin and bar solution to be much more energy efficient (I can't find one of his posts announcing the trick, but I've used the trick here). Looking at the photos, it appears that you are using technic axles with stops to hold the wheels on, the stop protruding from the wheel might collide with the rods as the wheels revolve. You do have an axle connector going across, keeping the wheels 1/4 turn apart on the two sides of the locomotive, right? ("quartering" as they say, and it is one of the easiest things to overlook in a steam locomotive design)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the additional pictures! Really great work. I'm wondering which parts you used for the headlights? Do they work?

40 minutes ago, monai said:

thanks and really cute details, but may you explain when 513 got boxpox wheels? I've found these  pictures which are confusing:
http://www.dampflokomotivarchiv.de/index.php?nav=1406605&lang=1&id=44293&action=portrait
it seems as they have re-changed to spoked recently..

The East German steel industry experienced great problems with casting the boxpok wheels accurately as specified in the design drawings. Many of these wheels were not properly balanced, and they seem to have been prone to cracking. So after a few years, they were generally replaced by normal spoked ones.
According to Lucas/Schnabel, "Die Baureihe 01.5", 01 513 had boxpok wheels from 1963 (year of reconstruction) to "at least September 1970". However, the photo you've hinted to proves that she still had boxpok wheels nearly one year later - but she's already lost the side skirtings.

Edited by Tenderlok

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just realized that I made a factual error...I should have been calling them Bulleid Firth Brown Wheels, which are entirely different to true Boxpok wheels.

I shall now sit at the back of the engine shed with a big cone on my head.

Anyway, The BFB wheel was quite hard to clean. Oil, sand and water tended to collect in the hollows, and at some point in history, poor steel was to blame for the cracking wheels. It's still a very pretty and unique wheel to look at.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, Steamdemon said:

I just realized that I made a factual error...I should have been calling them Bulleid Firth Brown Wheels, which are entirely different to true Boxpok wheels.

I shall now sit at the back of the engine shed with a big cone on my head.

Never mind. In German literature, the 01.5 disc wheels are invariably labeled as "boxpok". :wink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

Wow, there are some stunning details on that MOC!

Running gear can be a real challenge to get working well. I've always had to build and rebuild my designs until I got them working. Quick diagnostics might be as simple as flipping the locomotive over and looking for places where parts rub, collide, or otherwise not do what you want them to do. I've learned the hard way that it always helps to start by getting the running gear working before I build anything else. In this case you do not have that luxury, but if investigating the current model doesn't work or if it turns up a fatal flaw, before ripping it apart you might want to make a mock-up to test ideas. Using technic gears in place of the wheels to get the pins where you need them and just enough structure to get the other critical parts where they belong could help you quickly find a solution that works to your satisfaction. And only then, rebuild the model to match.

In case you are looking for feedback/suggestions, I assume you know or have tried most of the following, but it always helps to double check the details. Looking at your design, does the piston go in to the cylinder? If so, do you need a flex point off of the dark blay technic axle? Moving technic axles in and out of holes takes a lot of force and doing so at an angle can be particularly problematic (e.g., the stock Emerald Night design). I've found Cale's half pin and bar solution to be much more energy efficient (I can't find one of his posts announcing the trick, but I've used the trick here). Looking at the photos, it appears that you are using technic axles with stops to hold the wheels on, the stop protruding from the wheel might collide with the rods as the wheels revolve. You do have an axle connector going across, keeping the wheels 1/4 turn apart on the two sides of the locomotive, right? ("quartering" as they say, and it is one of the easiest things to overlook in a steam locomotive design)

Thank you so much for your advice:classic: I'll check the drivetrain and model step by step with your suggestions.:thumbup:

@tenderlok: To be honest the lights are a result of a bit of cheating and not working for now. I tried different solutions and as I wasn't pleased with any of them I went into the kitchen searching for the largest knife to cut the whole model apart:sweet: . Ok, I only took two cylinders (3062b) and made them fit to the angle of the front. Furthermore I added some plastic glass. I only wanted to give it a try and in the end I was so satisfied with the outcome that I kept it like that. I know this isn't really the way it should be, but in my opinion the front of the BR 01.5 is so remarkable that the whole model depends on it. I hope you like it anyway.:blush:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is totally cool! :wub::wub:

I love the red large wheels and the three holes on the black side of the cab ...this version of BR01 looks powerful and the tender increase the agressive looks of this beauty.

It would be fantastic see more pictures and maybe a video of this locomotive in action! :thumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh, very impressive. A very slick looking locomotive. And did you 3D-print those wheels yourself? They look nice.

And those steam deflectors are really great as well. And as always building to scale means making compromises. And in this case the final result is absolutely stunning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40 minutes ago, Man with a hat said:

Oh, very impressive. A very slick looking locomotive. And did you 3D-print those wheels yourself? They look nice.

And those steam deflectors are really great as well. And as always building to scale means making compromises. And in this case the final result is absolutely stunning.

Thank you:sweet:  I didn't 3D-print the wheels myself. For the first attempt I used BBB XL wheels but they were to small. While searching the net for larger wheels I found this on shapeways. As said before I'm very pleased, especially with the look & feel after painting. Problems can occure with narrow holes. I ordered 12 XXL wheels (6 Boxpok, 6 normal spokes) and I had problems to attach pins and axle with 3 of the boxpok wheels.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stunning locomotive, it has so much details!!! Lovely creation!!!:laugh:

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No apologies needed, that's a beauty!

To make it easier to share (many) photos of your model I would recommend opening a free Flickr account to host them. It's then easy to post them here.

For the running gear you are using Technic axles with axle joiners. While in theory that gives you beams of the correct length I've noticed that the length may vary a bit. If the side/connecting rod ends up being a fraction too long or too short it makes the running gear 'stutter'. You can connect the axles with gears inside the chassis to (at least partly) compensate.

Looking forward to your next model!

P.S. If you get a Flickr account, don't forget to join the LEGO Train MOCs group: https://www.flickr.com/groups/legotrains/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.