42077 - Rally Car - MODs and Improvements

[Vectormatic]

2 hours ago, steph77 said:

I am therefore looking forward to the next model of its kind, with great potential for change, because it is clear, it will not be the last;)
 

 

If you are into (race)cars, id recommend trying to track down 42039, mine is modified extensively (although mostly cosmetic), and i had a lot of fun making it more accurate. 42075 IMHO also offers a lot of potential, i changed mine to a pick up with dual shocks in the rear, still trying to think of a way to put in a flat-4 rather then a flat-2 though

[twonha]

Built it over the past few days, really enjoyed it as always! I'm no Lego genius, but I'm very proud of having made a small modification for the first time. I was disappointed that there wasn't a functional steering wheel. The 8880 has so many features, no normal car since then seems to get close to that, and it's always irked me. The Porsche has no HOG, the 24h car doesn't have a functional steering wheel, so this time I wanted to see if I could come up with something. I don't have a lot of spare parts, as my (small) collection is mostly motorcycles. But I noticed the 42077 has a lot of spare room so I got creative, and made a functional steering wheel, with a chain. Dead simple and a little crummy (the wheel isn't fixed properly), but technically it sort of works and I'm proud of my first baby step in messing up the original plans! 

Video: https://imgur.com/8MN2WlI

 

 

Edited August 2, 2018 by twonha

[NotANumber]

Here's my take on motorising 42077. I like 'minimal' motorisations, i.e. ones that keep as much of the original model as possible. This one is done with a Technic PF battery box, an IR receiver, a servo motor, and a PF-L motor (plus sundry gears, lift arms, and a drive shaft). It keeps the engine, but one has to sacrifice the steering column between the rack and the rooftop; the hole is re-purposed to anchor the IR receiver.

I've not produced any CAD files for this, since I think the modifications are simple enough to deduce from the photos. Also, this requires minimal disassembly on the completed model. So here's the underside:

First, a close-up on the steering. As mentioned, the manual steering gears and axles have been removed. Note the servo is mounted on its side, and reduced with a 12:20 pair of gears. This is because the full turn of the servo results in the steering wheels fouling on the bodywork. Also note that the orange-tipped stops on the steering rack have been removed.

Take care when assembling these gears. For correct centring of the steering, the pinion gear must be inserted onto the rack one tooth off from orthogonal, so that an inter-tooth gap on the 20-tooth gear lies on the horizonal.

The motor is secured on the underside with two 2x4 L-bars, and on top with a 9 lift arm, a 2x4 L, and 3x5 L; the latter two connect through the white axle connectors to add some rigidity.

Furthermore (obscured by the grey top of the suspension here) there are two 2x2 Ls inserted below the rack to either side to provide it with additional support, with a 5-unit lift arm mounted towards the front for rigidity.

In the cabin, the battery box sits on the seats secured either side with 2 3x5 L arms. Note the steering wheel rake has been reduced by 1 unit. The IR receiver is stuffed behind the seats, secured in place to the old steering hole using a triangular lift arm and three 1.5 pins.

Finally, the drive. Here I chose to insert a 12 axle carrying two 20-tooth gears with a 1-unit bush near the differential. This makes use of the yoke that holds the erstwhile steering column. The PF L motor just fits in the available space, clearing the drive shaft and engine, and is mounted on three 11-unit lift arms pinned to the rest of the chassis in a straightforward way. (Note also the fixing at the other end of the motor.) The motor is connected to the drive shaft via a 16-tooth gear.

The lift arms are held rigid by an unseen 3x3 T piece opposite the motor. There is space here for an additional motor if required. Note that an extension lead will be required in this case as there's no space behind the seats for doubling up on the IR receiver.

Edited August 7, 2018 by NotANumber

[Nebulaire]

This is my attempt on modifiy the 42077 :

All the red and white parts of the body have been replaced by dark blue azur parts and the wheel and the wing are black now. I added some light in the front and the intercooler is now from the right color. The exhaust is chrome now.

The HOG is now gone, I replaced it by a blue working steering wheel :

 

[ScaleCarModels]

Great mods for a great set! I almost didn't buy this set upon first seeing it. I am very glad that I did it's worth the money IMO. The set has a great parts selection and I enjoyed building it. 

It's a sweet model even built stock but with mods it's even better. Also the b model is just as good as main build. 

22 hours ago, Nebulaire said:

This is my attempt on modifiy the 42077 :

All the red and white parts of the body have been replaced by dark blue azur parts and the wheel and the wing are black now. I added some light in the front and the intercooler is now from the right color. The exhaust is chrome now.

The HOG is now gone, I replaced it by a blue working steering wheel :

 

I love the way this looks great work. That dark azur is one of my favorite colors TLG produces.

[zoo]

4 hours ago, ScaleCarModels said:

I love the way this looks great work. That dark azur is one of my favorite colors TLG produces.

Have you guys noticed any miscolouring on your dark azur curved panels? I ordered about 10 pieces from LEGO shop some time ago, and all of them had a corner with slightly lighter colour than the rest of the piece. All of them the exact same problem. I sent them back and they sent me new ones, all of those with the same problem again. Was I this unlucky or have you noticed any of this?

Are spare parts made in the same production line as the parts that go into the actual sets?

[Nebulaire]

I didn't notice anything on my parts.

[gregorski904]

this is mine

[Vectormatic]

@gregorski904

I love the stickers on yours, the colours are also a bit more serious rally then the original kit, those porsche wheels though.. can it still steer without rubbing?

 

@Nebulaire

Looks great! i always thought, probably due to the rear section, that it has a hint of MKIII Renault megane coupe to it, and the dark azure works quite well with that model in mind, very sporty!

 

 

My own example mets its end in the parts bin though, i needed some parts for the pimp my porsche build, and i never really managed to find a way to make 42077 look good enough that i want to put it on display

[Nebulaire]

I agree with you, 42077 has some Mégane coupe in its design !

[gregorski904]

On 8/14/2019 at 9:10 PM, vectormatic said:

@gregorski904

I love the stickers on yours, the colours are also a bit more serious rally then the original kit, those porsche wheels though.. can it still steer without rubbing?

 

@Nebulaire

Looks great! i always thought, probably due to the rear section, that it has a hint of MKIII Renault megane coupe to it, and the dark azure works quite well with that model in mind, very sporty!

 

 

My own example mets its end in the parts bin though, i needed some parts for the pimp my porsche build, and i never really managed to find a way to make 42077 look good enough that i want to put it on display

chassis is rebuilt so no rubbing

[johnnym]

Upon discovering this thread, I decided to again show my 42077 some love and make a few changes. I already did some changes in the past, to allow 80 mm tyres to fit (though balloon tyres require to limit the steering as in the stock version), as I don't think the stock tyres and wheels are adequate for a rallye car. I also changed the upper rear part, as I didn't like the stock appearance. In this last step, I changed the head lights and finalized the upper rear. I actually wanted to part it out afterwards, but now I find it too hard to disassemble it. One might say that the Fischer Technik tractor tyres are a little over the top, but I like their look on the 42077 and I also found a use for the dark red rims. I still think the read could use some stickers or maybe some white parts to break up the dark-azure monotony.

[lambu76]

Hi all, 

I motorized this set by following the moc from racing brick, but I have a doubt. 

When I move straight the car without steering the car is not going perfectly straight but it goes a bit on the right and I have to adjust with the steering. 

 

I'm new with technic so I would like to know if it's normal with steering based in rocket/pinion due some play between bricks. 

 

Thx

[iLego]

10 hours ago, lambu76 said:

Hi all, 

I motorized this set by following the moc from racing brick, but I have a doubt. 

When I move straight the car without steering the car is not going perfectly straight but it goes a bit on the right and I have to adjust with the steering. 

 

I'm new with technic so I would like to know if it's normal with steering based in rocket/pinion due some play between bricks. 

 

Thx

It could be due to gear play, but it's more likely because of how the servo is connected to the pinion gear. If the servo is directly connected to the pinion (via an axle), the rack will be properly centered keeping the wheels straight. Alternatively, if you put one intermediate gear, then the pinion will be off by half a gear tooth, so the rack can not center. Summary is ... you have to connect the servo directly to the pinion, or via an even number of intermediate gears. (Odd number of intermediate gears will cause misalignment by half a gear tooth, which is enough to make the car drift slightly to one side).

This is a problem with the PF servo since it has an absolute "zero" position. With new Control+, we can hopefully set the zero wherever needed.

Edited November 21, 2019 by iLego
Fix typo.

[kbalage]

@lambu76 you need to make sure the servo and the gear rack is centered during building. Otherwise it can happen because of the Servo not being perfectly centered after a while, I have that phenomenon as well with some of them.

@iLego there's no intermediate gear in the steering here, might be also because of the gear play as you mentioned.

[Shuzbut]

I recently got one of these cheap and didn't like it at first, but when I saw what others have done on this thread, I thought I would try and change mine. 

Credit to @steph77 for the wheel arches and some of the bodywork change. Apart from that, the thing I wanted to change the most was the bonnet. I didn't like the big gap. I also moved the doors back 1. This means the doors latch on the bodywork, which I like.  

Modifications:

- 8-N-R gearbox - that is @Anto design, modified a little to fit the space

- 4 wheel drive - dampers offset to retain original suspension leverage ratio. That was not the best approach, I think.

- Working steering wheel

- Full roll cage 

- Bodywork changes

- Different seats + 5-point harness belts and anchorages

- HOG steering removed - It is less fun to push around with geared drivetrain and extra weight.