GT_8Ricks

42077 - Rally Car - MODs and Improvements

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Will any of the experienced Technic builders here have any interest in motorizing the rally car just released? I'd love to buy this set but since I'm not proficient with motorizing technic sets, it would be awesome to see the pros in here show the world how it can be done!

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That's exactly what I was thinking how nobody in here has started a modding thread on this set! I already see the mac anthem has motorization threads...why not the rally car? Is it because the car is too simple? 

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1 hour ago, GT_8Ricks said:

That's exactly what I was thinking how nobody in here has started a modding thread on this set! I already see the mac anthem has motorization threads...why not the rally car? Is it because the car is too simple? 

Perhaps people like more machinery than cars or is the main reason that we have lots of great cars with their own topics here on Eurobricks, who knows...

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I think motorizing 42077 should be quite simple, from what ive seen there is a ton of empty space underneath the fake engine directly in front of the diff, bolting an L motor in there is probably quite easy. Intercepting the steering axle at some point and putting a servo on it (probably between the seats in the cabin) shouldnt be hard either, then it is just a matter of putting the receiver and battery box somewhere and routing some cables.

In terms of mods, im much more interest to see if the space under the engine could hold a gearbox, even a simple 2 speed box with a sequential style shifter between the seats would improve the set greatly imho

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I'm already done with the motorization of the B model, both with PF motors and a buggy motor variant. Working on a video and instructions in the upcoming days, afterwards I'll focus on the A model. I'll post the progress in the existing 42077 topic, I'm not sure if we need to create a separate topic for the motorization.

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1 hour ago, vectormatic said:

engine could hold a gearbox, even a simple 2 speed box with a sequential style shifter between the seats would improve the set greatly imho

There is definitely enough space. Rerouting the steering and keeping the control in the same place will be a huge problem.

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@kbalageDo you know a timeframe for the A model RC project? Btw, awesome work on the B model RC project. Thanks to you I bought the set and just building it now. As I'm just a beginner with technics, I need guys like you for inspiration on my future mods/mocs. Feels like this car is the best to start with for that goal.

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I have just finished adding 4wd. When I actually complete the bodywork around the chassis, I´ll look into adding power functions. It´s been quite easy with the new front hubs as they allow you to get the correct steering geometry with minimal ball ache compared to the old hubs with the moulded attachments.

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@GT_8Ricks I want to finish the instructions for my 3rd Star Wars motorcycle this week, so the earliest is next week for the 42077 A model. It depends on a lot of things so I'd say 1-2 weeks probably.

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54 minutes ago, valenciaeric said:

I have just finished adding 4wd. When I actually complete the bodywork around the chassis, I´ll look into adding power functions. It´s been quite easy with the new front hubs as they allow you to get the correct steering geometry with minimal ball ache compared to the old hubs with the moulded attachments.

Cool, any pics of how you did it? When first news of a technic rally car was breaking i was really hoping they'd include AWD, to me a non AWD rally car makes 0 sense, especially with modern stylinh

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I´ll take some tomorrow in daylight. Basically you  take advantage of the steering axle (remove the HOG part going to the roof and then run the transmission driveshaft through the black 90º angle changer.

Regarding PF, I´d just replace the fake engine with an L motor and I think I´ll be able to place the servo motor for the steering just above the transmission tunnel.

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It was pretty easy to put servo - in most front part of car, HOG steering was not touched. Also reciever was easy to put on in front, just behind the front axle. I put battery on top of rear axle, roll cage had to be removed, those axles with pinholes. But I couldn't find easy place for motor/-s. So I didn't continued at the moment. 

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Yes, very easy to power up. Just stick an L motor in on its side in place of the fake V6, change the 5.5 rod to a 5 anf brace it with a couple of beams.

With my 4wd version, I stuck the servo motor in the space between the removed front seats and hooked it up to the steering directly.

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So far, I've improved the suspension (about 2 studs travel) and fitted 4WD. When I finish my current MOC I think I'll take out the V6 and put an XL motor in there.

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Hi, I just made a mod with 2 RC buggy motors (5292) powered with custom 2S LiPo (located in back) and Sbrick or 1 Buwizz (located under hood). I've switching power sources to check the difference. 20180524_095554.jpg

Buggy motors fit well there and it's enough space to put them without bigger problems.

Here is view without battery (4 stud brick is to mount fake engine)

20180524_095807.jpg

Here with fake engine elevated 1 stud higher than original position.

20180524_095851.jpg

20180524_095725.jpg

20180524_095738.jpg

Here is a front of car with removed fans. It's space for Sbrick or Buwizz placement.  I add a pin for holding hood in place when driving, also doors are locked by second pin. 

20180524_100010.jpg

Also small panel was moved 1 stud to front to make more space for wheel.

20180524_095654.jpg

Hope it can help someone with making it more playable :) I don't have any instructions, just a pictures.

Generally performance is pretty ok. Car is a bit too heavy for 2 rc motors. Sbrick with gaming pad as controller works much better than buwizz and touchscreen but buwizz can power this hungry motors better. 

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3 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

This Mod looks very wrong but also looks very right...

https://imgur.com/a/AzNVwTu#UZJfgwO

 

Man, it look great! Now it look like it should. With smaller tires it look meh. With those it look like true offorad buggy. I like a lot. Now it's a motivation to build B model :)

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HI all,

First of all, i still do not know if this project finaly is a Mod or a Moc.

It all started when The Bugatti Chiron comes out and when i had to admit i just cannot pay so much money for it.

I started thinking at what was attracting me in Bugatti and finaly comes to conclusion that it was simply the fact to have a complete technic package in one set. I began to think at building my own supercar. But as i can build about any Aéro MOC or helicopter you want, i also had to admit that building good designed car was not my cup of tea.

So and after i read @Jim's 42077 review i decided to buy this set and i build it. My first impression was that i made the good choice, lots of free space in this (no so much) little set. After some hard thinking on how doing it, i realised i had to rebuilt the model from A to Z.

So began the work to put some Chiron DNA in this rally car. The first thing i does was to rebuild the frame and structure of this car, taking care to keep the fixing point of bodywork at the right place. Re-building it also mean that this new car is now sturdy. Realy sturdy. All reinforcement have been re-thought and all ergonomy space Inside too. the seats are now proprely scaled, there is a functional driving Wheel...

This is the actual state of the WIP:

pt4eHt.jpg

1hCPM8.jpg

Ha ok, i forgot that: The V6 is out and let place to a 4 in line front transversal one, like on many real cars in real life

kMoBHR.jpg

I also re-thought all transmission. To be honest, the official set is a little poor at this point of view.

So here comes the Chiron's DNA. First i place a D-N-R selector between the front seats

oq655g.jpg

As in the Chiron the reverse has is own shaff and the drive mode will be equiped with a gearbox. And the geear box will come here : at orginal set's engine place

OXANRr.jpg

9V97wY.jpg

The selector of the sequential gearbox will use the original set's HOG emplacement, as the actual HOG is placed in the hole in the front hood

dBELrB.jpg

At this point i had to solve the gearbox problem.

From the design point of view i totaly review the suspensions setup to match the 'cup' spirit, i modify the position of the rear axle by one stud to the back, and add some flex axle to finish the rear design.

I also solved two minors issues of the original set by adding a doors handle system (functionnal) and a rear view Mirror that lock the 'Billund high point' beam in position:

Handles:

HkZ03K.jpg

Rear view Mirror lock:

JB3OeO.jpg

LrjBqI.jpg

Any feedback is welcome

Steph.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by steph77
editing links - 42077 correction

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38 minutes ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

The set number is 42077 not 81077

Thanks :wink:.

Correction done

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1 hour ago, steph77 said:

So and after i read @Jim's 42077 review...

I'm pretty sure I haven't reviewed this set :laugh:
(it was @Milan)

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Just now, Jim said:

I'm pretty sure I haven't reviewed this set :laugh:
(it was @Milan)

Ok it seems i need some rest today :laugh_hard:

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Just now, steph77 said:

Ok it seems i need some rest today :laugh_hard:

Hehe :laugh:

He used the same setup, so I can understand why you were confused.

PS I like your MODs.

A MOC is My Own Creation, so that's when you come up with something yourself. A MOD is the modification of an existing set.

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