Connect two large pneumatic cylinders?

[Fieldtest]

Hello 

Does anyone have any ideas to connect two large V2 pneumatic cylinders (part 19467c01).

I am currently building a large mining liebherr shovel and will  be finished shortly  

I will display the large design here in the coming weeks  

thank you kindly  

[Erik Leppen]

What are some things you have tried already?

How well does the special connector piece from 8275 work?

Have you checked official sets where two cylinders are coupled, e.g. 8460?

And do you have pictures of the parts of the model where you want to add cylinder? It's easier to help if people can see what things are about.

 

[Fieldtest]

Thanks Eric 

I haven't tried the special connector from 8275 as I'm  not sure it will fit as that special connector will join 2 older style cylinders and not sure it.will work on the new longer cylinders which come with the Mercedes Arcos 

I'm still trying to figure out how to post pics  

[Aventador2004]

You could try using two (OO) and two 3L pins + a (XOOX) across the two outlets,  **THE OUTLETS MAY SNAP THIS WAY**

[Fieldtest]

K will  try this tomorrow morning  

I am trying.to come up with something as to hug the cylinder as well for support to ease off the pressure off the outlets and sole connection spot at base  

[ColletArrow]

10 hours ago, Fieldtest said:

I haven't tried the special connector from 8275 as I'm  not sure it will fit as that special connector will join 2 older style cylinders and not sure it.will work on the new longer cylinders which come with the Mercedes Arcos 

You might be interested in this video by Sariel. He tries to connect two together, using the 53178 connector, at 2:46:

(Also, to post pictures you need to host them somewhere else, like Bricksafe or Flickr; then you can copy the link here.)

[Ivan_M]

If you really want secure connection you might try Efferman 3D printer bracket:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/37J8ZR3KM/2x11-kombinierer-v2?optionId=61177427&li=user-profile

[Fieldtest]

Aventador I tried your method and it's not bad but your caution warning may be right  

Also watched collet video and I am trying to use up my technic inventory first  

 

The efferman piece is interesting but will try more reply ideas 

 

Cheers 

[Aventador2004]

1 hour ago, Fieldtest said:

Aventador, I tried your method, and it's not bad but your caution warning may be right.

Ok, I remember someone said they broke one once, but it often.

Btw, I fixed you quote grammar, the mods appreciate good grammar.

[Saberwing40k]

I did the thing:

It required some arcane, and not quite legal building techniques, but it works.

[1963maniac]

Tommy Styrvoky had this idea that works too, www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/156965-idea-link-two-v2-pneumatic-actuators-end-to-end/  His solution is 1L shorter, too. There is no problem with tube connection.

OK, how about showing some connections for the 5th one down on CollettArrow's picture above? Some help please?

Edited October 27, 2021 by 1963maniac

[Fieldtest]

Hello I can' click on your link  

[SNIPE]

Here you go:

Just buy a couple of these brackets and put the nozzles and hoses through the pinholes.

Clamp the two bracket halves together using the top two pinholes with a 3L liftarm (for example)

Edited December 16, 2017 by SNIPE

[Saberwing40k]

I just built it, to test it. I didn't think it would work, but it did.

[Fieldtest]

That's great !! I will buy the same connectors if I can't jig something up with all my technic gears  

[1963maniac]

I just checked bricklink. Those brackets in America are $8.75 each. That $17.50 plus shipping for just one pair! Whew! Alternative builds are what I need help with.

[Saberwing40k]

Is my post invisible or something? I posted an alternative that does not require brackets like 3 replies down.

[Fieldtest]

Hi saberwing I did see your post thank you. I would prefer to use up my own technic pieces as yourself but would require at least 1" coverage on the cylinder body for strength.

Yes those brackets are quite expensive I agree !! But sometimes we need them  

[Saberwing40k]

I actually built a prototype that covered the cylinder bodies, but that did not actually provide any strength. The blocks at the back should be sufficient. If you're putting more load than what those can take, I'd be worried about the cylinders breaking.

[P McCatty]

At the risk of bumping an old thread, while working on something unrelated I came up with 2 other solutions for connecting the 2 x 11 V2 Actuators end to end. I figure this might be great for a tipping bed mechanism. Hopefully someone can find either of them useful.

 

 

Version 1

 

Version 2

[Maaboo the Witch]

Cool techniques! 

[2GodBDGlory]

Sweet! I'm pretty sure that bumping an old topic when you have something really worthwhile to post (like this) is fine, and probably preferable to starting a new thread. I've never needed these cylinders doubled, but I've messed around a few times with setups for it. I really like your V2 design and its compact symmetry.

I also notice that on that design the little L-shaped parts can be put on two different ways to touch the edges of the cylinders slightly different amounts, allowing for some fine-tuning of the tension, I suppose.

[2GodBDGlory]

While fidgeting with your V1 design (while trying to do homework ), I came up with this even more compact, yet strong, design. The 4L bar should be replaced with a 3L one. A 3L axle can be used instead, but it puts the assembly under a lot of stress.

[P McCatty]

59 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

While fidgeting with your V1 design (while trying to do homework ), I came up with this even more compact, yet strong, design. The 4L bar should be replaced with a 3L one. A 3L axle can be used instead, but it puts the assembly under a lot of stress.

I really like that. Well done! With the V1 there is a slight angular offset (I'd guess maybe 1 or 2 deg) but it is within the tolerance of the parts. And it's easily stackable side by side if you use longer through axles. If you put 2 x 3L bars in place of the 3L axles, then put the 3L axle through that steering joint, would it be the same result? I don't have all of the parts in front of me right now. Either way, it appears that for a brick-built bracket on these cylinders, some derivative containing a 45 deg part orientation works well. Note also that V2 has exact operating stud lengths (22 to 34), whereas V1 & similar would range from 22.4 to 34.4 as there is a sqrt(2) offset between the blue pins.

Edited October 26, 2021 by P McCatty

[2GodBDGlory]

12 minutes ago, P McCatty said:

I really like that. Well done! With the V1 there is a slight angular offset (I'd guess maybe 1 or 2 deg) but it is within the tolerance of the parts. And it's easily stackable side by side if you use longer through axles. If you put 2 x 3L bars in place of the 3L axles, then put the 3L axle through that steering joint, would it be the same result? I don't have all of the parts in front of me right now. Either way, it appears that for a brick-built bracket on these cylinders, some derivative containing a 45 deg part orientation works well. Note also that V2 has exact operating stud lengths (22 to 34), whereas V1 & similar would range from 22.4 to 34.4 as there is a sqrt(2) offset between the blue pins.

Thanks! I just tried changing the axles to bars and the bar to an axle, but I don't really like the result. It bends more easily, and ends up having a much more significant angle between the cylinders in the opposite direction as before.