[MOC] Amtrak P42DC

[bummelsp4449]

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum, but I've been building LEGOs for quite a few years. I was surprised upon doing some Googling at how few LEGO models of the P42 have been made, since while it usually isn't well known for it's attractive looks, it is the most commonly used passenger locomotive used in the United States. Since I'm one of the weird ones that actually likes both the look of the Genesis and the Phase V paint scheme, I decided to try my hand at recreating it. It's built to 8 studs wide, though admittedly I sacrificed the scale a bit to make the locomotive taller so as to add more details. Overall, I think I got pretty close to capturing the 'feel' of the real thing. The model is basically hollow inside, and is built to use a battery pack, receiver, and PF motor (note the square-shaped hole on the roof, where the on/off switch would be if the battery pack was installed. Let me know what you think!

Link to full-sized images (and more pictures): https://flic.kr/s/aHsm5yC5kC

[Beck]

Subtle curves and slants are some of the most difficult geometric figures to capture in LEGO in a relatively small space, and you did an excellent job of doing so. Although there are some unsightly gaps in the front; however, I recognize the difficulty of the project. Well done!

Edited October 5, 2017 by Beck

[zephyr1934]

Good job, easily recognizable. I would agree with Beck about the gaps on the front, but if you used blue cheese bricks on top of the panel with the windshield that would help fill that gap and then if you can replace the plates that are studs forward with tiles (and if you need 1.5 plate thickness in that spot, perhaps a couple of brackets behind the tiles). Still, most of your transitions couldn't be beat, e.g., the gentle slope at the top of the sides.

[Freezingvettes99]

Outstanding!!  

[bummelsp4449]

Thank you all for the kind words and constructive (literally) advice!

3 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

Good job, easily recognizable. I would agree with Beck about the gaps on the front, but if you used blue cheese bricks on top of the panel with the windshield that would help fill that gap and then if you can replace the plates that are studs forward with tiles (and if you need 1.5 plate thickness in that spot, perhaps a couple of brackets behind the tiles). Still, most of your transitions couldn't be beat, e.g., the gentle slope at the top of the sides.

Which way were you thinking of pointing the cheese bricks on top? If I put the larger side towards the back, I can just barely fit them under the existing roof; though the gap isn't quite big enough, so the roof is pushed up ever so slightly (not really noticeable though). As for the sides of the nose, I think the brackets are an excellent idea! It will take a bit of re-engineering, but from playing around with it a bit I think it will definitely look a lot better. Unfortunately at the very top of where the new brackets would be, there is a big gap that I can't seem to get rid of (right under the very front end of the roof on each side; the front windshield panel doesn't cover it even with cheese bricks). Otherwise I'll post back with some screenshots once I've finished making the improvements. Thanks again!

[zephyr1934]

You have 3 1x2 trans black for the windshield, then on top it looks like you have two 1x6 plates and then a row of tiles and jumper plates. I was thinking replace that top row with cheese bricks (1x2 ideally) with the tall side toward the front of the locomotive. Or maybe you need one more plate below the cheese bricks [I can't help but think of "blue cheese" in this discussion].

I had not noticed that 1x1 gap at the top front of the side, could you extend the 1xN tile one more stud further? You would still have about a 1 plate high hole below the extension. For that, you might be able to use a 1x8 tile (what would be) studs down, and then some structure 6 wide or less above to hold it in place.

 

[raised]

Looks great! Is it more than 60 studs long? *hint OcTRAINber hint*

Edited October 6, 2017 by raised

[CaL]

Hi bummelsp4449,

very nice job!

Just a tip conecerning the issue with leaving a gap for the eye of the PF receiver:
Why don´t you use a buwizz to power your loco?
I just a week ago used it to re-power my 12V TEE-engine from set 7740.
The issues of the infrared  eye are gone using buwizz because it works with bluetooth.
Similar concpest are Sbrick and the upcoming PFxbrick?

Kind regards

CaL

[bummelsp4449]

10 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

You have 3 1x2 trans black for the windshield, then on top it looks like you have two 1x6 plates and then a row of tiles and jumper plates. I was thinking replace that top row with cheese bricks (1x2 ideally) with the tall side toward the front of the locomotive. Or maybe you need one more plate below the cheese bricks [I can't help but think of "blue cheese" in this discussion].

I had not noticed that 1x1 gap at the top front of the side, could you extend the 1xN tile one more stud further? You would still have about a 1 plate high hole below the extension. For that, you might be able to use a 1x8 tile (what would be) studs down, and then some structure 6 wide or less above to hold it in place.

 

Ah I see; is this what you had in mind? What looked like jumpers on the windshield piece, in the same row as the tiles, are actually the hinges that allow the whole piece to sit at the angle it does. I had to move the hinges down a row both on the roof and the windshield piece to allow for cheese bricks all the way across, though looking at the picture I did forget to exchange the 1x1 cheese bricks for 1x2's like you mentioned; so I'll go do that real quick. Otherwise I was able to add the brackets, and extend the tile as you mentioned. Thanks again for the tips!

 

10 hours ago, raised said:

Looks great! Is it more than 60 studs long? *hint OcTRAINber hint*

 Haha, yes I definitely thought about it. Unfortunately the loco is 52 studs long (excluding the magnet couplers), and about 56 studs long with couplers. So close!

 

10 hours ago, CaL said:

Hi bummelsp4449,

very nice job!

Just a tip conecerning the issue with leaving a gap for the eye of the PF receiver:
Why don´t you use a buwizz to power your loco?
I just a week ago used it to re-power my 12V TEE-engine from set 7740.
The issues of the infrared  eye are gone using buwizz because it works with bluetooth.
Similar concpest are Sbrick and the upcoming PFxbrick?

Kind regards

CaL

Actually the hole in the roof was for the on/off switch on the battery pack; I already designed a plug with a boat stud on the bottom that would set on top of the button just with gravity, and when not depressed would sit flush with the roof, so it would just look like another 2x2 tile. I don't know whether I would need to leave a gap for the eye of the receiver, as admittedly I've never really worked PF before; thus I was mostly basing this design off of the way LEGO designed 60051. That's an excellent idea though, when it comes time to actually run the loco that's likely what I'll use! Thank you for the great suggestion!

 

 

Edited October 6, 2017 by bummelsp4449

[zephyr1934]

Looking sharp (well... as sharp as such a blunt prototype can look, grin)

[xboxtravis7992]

I agree the front needs some work, like the nose needs to be a bit sharper or something but I can't really describe how to fix it without having it side by side with a P42DC model or photo. However the rear end is spectacular, and really captures all the weird angles and details that are in modern passenger locomotives. I like the hood design too.

[bummelsp4449]

On 10/7/2017 at 7:31 AM, xboxtravis7992 said:

I agree the front needs some work, like the nose needs to be a bit sharper or something but I can't really describe how to fix it without having it side by side with a P42DC model or photo. However the rear end is spectacular, and really captures all the weird angles and details that are in modern passenger locomotives. I like the hood design too.

Thank you! Well the problem I ran into with the nose was that LEGO slopes are simply too steep. Both the point of the blue paint going downwards (just below the headlight), and the point all in grey facing forwards are actually quite gradual compared to the overall size and scale of the locomotive, and LEGO really doesn't have anything like that; except maybe for cheese bricks. I tried replacing both front points on the locomotive with cheese bricks, but to me it just didn't look good. I can post a screenshot if you want, but IMO the gradual slopes used by tiles and plates are about the closest ways I can think of. Though if you have ideas, please don't hesitate to let me know! :)

Edited October 8, 2017 by bummelsp4449

[Man with a hat]

Nice work. And that gap looks much better now. Eh, that means it is less obvious of course. I have a WIP for which I am struggling with the front cabin as well. Those are the trickiest parts too get well. But overall it looks really good. And the colour scheme is done really well.

[Dutchiedoughnut]

Well, you could try to do an articulated version of the locomotive for Octrainber... with a proper background story to go with it ;). Very attractive locomotive!