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75192 - UCS Millennium Falcon 2017 MOD/MOC

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@ClassicLook hello, thanks to share your version or the one you reproduce. It make me feel a back in the time jump :laugh:

First of all, in my falcon I have always the original design... so don't think that my opinion is wicked :wink:

After working on docking bays in Studio for other members, I must admit that it's clearly possible to do better than original.

You're version seems, I think now that I have some experience, out of date faced of last versions we propose at the end of the topic. My point of view should be that this design could fit perfectly with old 10179 UCS which is a more regular ship, with many straight edges.

I think you should upgrade the 3L bar to many other ideas we found (or copy lol) like handlebars which are curved.

What about the tiles, how are they attached?

 

On 12/6/2020 at 10:40 AM, Vouatch said:

I tink I found something, look at 1329 point of instruction, I think this part could feet under the upper globe /turret

@epkiernan Did I found the answer?

@ClassicLook You know what? I asked me about what is the original design in the movie in fact... Clearly I don't know.

So let's go to google and I found this :

millennium-falcon-photo-1578374173705-96

Don't know if that come from an original movie but, this version seems mor close to your design than the other... lol

Clearly difficult to find the way of the "force" (strenght in english, don't know the name in english of the Jedi's power)

Edited by Vouatch

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On 12/1/2020 at 10:55 PM, Neophyte_brickie said:

I have to confess, this relies heavily on some illegal techniques.

It looks very nice. Honestly this is the main reason why I’m not attracted by this mod, but it’s clear there aren’t many other alternatives as good as it. :)

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On 12/11/2020 at 10:26 PM, Vouatch said:

@ClassicLook hello, thanks to share your version or the one you reproduce. It make me feel a back in the time jump :laugh:

You're version seems, I think now that I have some experience, out of date faced of last versions we propose at the end of the topic. My point of view should be that this design could fit perfectly with old 10179 UCS which is a more regular ship, with many straight edges.

I think you should upgrade the 3L bar to many other ideas we found (or copy lol) like handlebars which are curved.

What about the tiles, how are they attached?

I've posted my Falcon for inspiration. I don't think that this old docking ring design fits less to the 2nd edition of the MF. It looks very similar to your last reference picture. I can't see any curved lines inside the ring, so I find the 3L bar more accurate in that location.

You're right, that it's hard to find a good reference, I've just looked the Bandai model, it's very detailed.

50718365533_d2118c1ef3_o.jpg50654039716_2a219614fb_o másolat by Gyula Herr, on Flickr

I've used this guide to build the rings. You can see here, how the tiles are attached. As I've mentioned before, it is quite fragile, but this way you can face the tiles to center a little.

50714202857_837440a177_c.jpg45962749322_0fb4deaf83_o by Gyula Herr, on Flickr

I'm following how your new design progressing. I can say in the name of many members, that we welcome any better solutions, especially in terms of sturdyness!

I think you are on a good way! Keep going!

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@ClassicLook Just saw episode 6 with my daughter (7yo), she is very fan of the movies even the age of this first saga.

And at the beginning, just after they saved Han solo from Jabba the hutt, they decide to go on Endor to destroy the protection of the new death star. Han solo and Lando are in the hangar were the Falcon is docking and we can see this picture which make me think to you and your docking bay:

Original docking bay from Episode 6

so I think now that we are trying to realise a beautiful docking bay but not really accurate of the movie. Your version, with strenght line reminds us that this is the original way!

But it's possible that the original design evolved with actual movies... need to check lol

About the way your tiles are attached... wow, very impressive idea of Gyula_herr, certainly fragile but the idea should be hard to find...

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19 hours ago, Vouatch said:

Original docking bay from Episode 6

About the way your tiles are attached... wow, very impressive idea of Gyula_herr, certainly fragile but the idea should be hard to find...

This a a funny scene, because they've used only a backround, instead of a real Falcon model. It's a well detailed artwork, it's hard to notice that i'ts only a poster. :sweet:

About the design: it's not my idea, I've just copied it, but unfortunately I can't name the creator...

Edited by ClassicLook

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Hi, just finished the Falcon (unmodded at this stage other than the 1x2 blue trans plate engine mod)
I’ve also previously collected all the Technic pieces to make Efferman’s amazingly structural display stand.

Having built it, I’ve realised the pose/bank of his stand is far too aggressive to fit the Falcon into my display coffee table. If anything, it would need to be on the reverse angle (if the stand was laid down on its side), but this doesn’t work due to the attachment points and structure design.

I’m pretty sure I previously saw someone who had modded his stand to achieve this (a slight angle of bank, with 7 landing gear/feet removed), but can’t find it.

Anyone have any tips on how to achieve this (or photos), or is my only option trying to mod his stand, which I think would take quite some modding?

Cheers for any help!

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Cheers, nah I have the stand, and instructions, but I thought I saw someone with a modded version that out it on the reverse angle/less aggressive bank.

in other words, the mod would put the Falcon on a slight bank/tilt sideways, but only enough to give the illusion of flight, but still fit in a coffee table..

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ptrg - sorry for the confusion. I don't know if this helps, but I have a stand from Wicked Bricks in UK that has the MF off the ground at angle but it is at 70 degrees - not as steep as Effermans but still may be more than you want. You might want to contact them and see if they have a lees angles display stand, they make hundreds of stands and style, they may have something you are looking for.

https://www.wickedbrick.com

 

 

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No worries, I ended up partially pulling apart Effermans design, and then using some of the spare pieces from it to over engineer the supports (see photos lol).

But I did achieve what I set out to do: lessen the "bank" of the Falcon, but still have a sturdy stand.

 

342B6C59-52F1-42B3-80E3-23D16211A7E7.jpeg

526AEFB7-57F6-4E1B-9B55-B5E5AD654C75.jpeg

Edited by ptrg

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Posted (edited)
On 12/6/2020 at 12:59 PM, Neophyte_brickie said:

Ok, so here goes - this is going to be a long post.  I've further tweaked my Marshal Banana-inspired Docking Ring mod, and I've achieved a solution I'm satisfied with.  I must reiterate though, this may not satisfy the purists, as it relies on a completely unorthodox technique - albeit using genuine Lego pieces.

........

50684659497_38396e276b_z.jpg

 

50684657507_dd84cc1ee4_z.jpg

It's easier to get the hose nozzles into position if you temporarily remove the handlebars.  You can use a small hobby screwdriver or similar to get them seated correctly (the space is far too tight for fingers, and you need to have the link tread ring in place first to hold them in, since there is no connection to other parts).  If you get it right, the hose nozzles are held very firmly in place - there seems to be little risk that they will spontaneously come loose, and in turn they buttress the link tread ring very firmly - there is no appreciable rotation of individual link treads.  So the whole construction feels very stable, and it's very easy to then attach the 3x1 tiles around the outside.  My only residual issue is that the link treads and attached 3x1 tiles sit a little higher than I would like:

......

I'd be very interested to know if anyone comes up with improvements to my design, particularly if anyone comes up with a solution using only legal building techniques.  

UPDATE - Marshal Banana Docking Ring improvement

I feel rather stupid, but pleased to report that I've cracked it! I was so close before, but that unorthodox technique I came up with in my earlier post is entirely unnecessary - the MB Docking Ring can be achieved perfectly without the hose nozzles.

The solution is to shift the chain of link treads down so that the upper 'rail' of the link treads sits adjacent to the middle layer (rather than the upper layer) of 1x1 round plates; in that way the lower rail of the link treads is level with the 4x4 round corner plates. This forces the chain of link treads into a perfect circle of exactly the right diameter. It's a tight fit, but the links hold - and by happy coincidence, the tension in the ring introduces a natural slope to the link treads  - and this allows the 3x1 tiles to attach around the outside of the ring at pretty much the perfect angle. Despite the tension, the ring of link treads is in no danger of slipping - the ridges formed by stacking the 1x1 round plates hold it firmly in place. Furthermore, the gap that was there previously between the base of the link tread ring and the 10x10 inverted dish is eliminated. The photos below demonstrate the improved version. I'm finally completely happy with the overall construction, but may still further tweak the design of the docking ring internals.

50785523118_eec6aaa383_z.jpgIMG_0632 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50786282026_82d9f991ff_z.jpgIMG_0630 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50785523078_2a7dd77eb5_z.jpgIMG_0633 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50786384082_c7ccef5c72_z.jpgIMG_0619 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50786382352_c5fc2befdc_z.jpgIMG_0636 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50785521573_39ddb96fb8_z.jpgIMG_0637 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

Edited by Neophyte_brickie

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The above solution also makes the top layer of 1x1 round plates unnecessary - they can be replaced with standard 2x1 plates if desired.

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You should check Taschen’s book out. They have issued SW archives in collaboration with Lucasfilm directly with all the original drawings and blueprints

 

the cheaper version has drawings but the most expensive has everything

 

Some large bookstores have them in major cities

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Posted (edited)

So I'm trying to get as close as possible to 'the real thing' using the Marshal Banana design. Would be interested in your thoughts on these:

50794041222_e63d615d03_z.jpg

50794041227_0d091a8578_z.jpg

 

I plan to change the bucket handles to light bluish grey, and the dark bluish grey 1 x1 plates with clip (holding the 3L bars / handlebars) to dark tan, but will need to purchase them in those colours. I'm leaning toward the version with the 3L bars - the straight lines and the fact they are recessed further into the docking ring gives a more accurate appearance imo. It occurs to me I could also swap out a couple of the light bluish grey 3 x 1 tiles around the outside of the docking ring for dark bluish grey.

You can't see it in those photos but I've also incorporated some red accents, copied from @Frenk512's docking ring design, as posted by @ClassicLook:

50793917231_0f9d89172c_z.jpg

 

Edited by Neophyte_brickie

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@Neophyte_brickie Happy new year !!! Very good update, it's clearly perfectly round now!

to go deepest, what about the idea to go without 4x4 round tiles around? it will be more accurate to the original design, and we will have more place in the middle of the circle. for exemple, may be you can put 4x4 round corner plate in the middle of the 3 1x1 round plate that maintain the chain? that could give a support for the rest of the material

You can also put some dark bluish grey 1x3 tiles around the chain...

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Posted (edited)
On 1/3/2021 at 5:24 AM, Neophyte_brickie said:

So I'm trying to get as close as possible to 'the real thing' using the Marshal Banana design.

I plan to change the bucket handles to light bluish grey, and the dark bluish grey 1 x1 plates with clip (holding the 3L bars / handlebars) to dark tan, but will need to purchase them in those colours. I'm leaning toward the version with the 3L bars - the straight lines and the fact they are recessed further into the docking ring gives a more accurate appearance imo. It occurs to me I could also swap out a couple of the light bluish grey 3 x 1 tiles around the outside of the docking ring for dark bluish grey.

You can't see it in those photos but I've also incorporated some red accents, copied from @Frenk512's docking ring design, as posted by @ClassicLook

Hi,

I think you've done the best solution to reproduce the Marshal Banana's version and be more accurate to the reference pictures!

Great job! I like it a lot!

Edited by ClassicLook

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Finally managed to get this behemoth for my birthday, and I'm absolutely thrilled with it! There are definitely some modes I would like to make though, such as the empty space at the rear left of the ship and the cockpit interior. I do have a question though, I'm limited on storage space and I had to the to maybe use the box as a 'plinth' to display the Falcon, however I'm a bit concerned that the weight of the shop could cause damage. Has anyone else tried this, and could the box support the weight without being damaged in any way?  I will likely look into the Efferman stand at some point anyway.  

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3 hours ago, ClassicLook said:

Hi,

I think you've done the best solution to reproduce the Marshal Banana's version and be more accurate to the reference pictures!

Great job! I like it a lot!

Neophyte Brickie

I also second that - it looks great.

Any chance you are going to produce a parts list of the final version?

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9 hours ago, Vouatch said:

 

to go deepest, what about the idea to go without 4x4 round tiles around? it will be more accurate to the original design, and we will have more place in the middle of the circle. for exemple, may be you can put 4x4 round corner plate in the middle of the 3 1x1 round plate that maintain the chain? that could give a support for the rest of the material

If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting to omit the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles?  I had actually thought of that and even mocked up a version without those tiles a couple of weeks ago in Studio, but I didn't like the look of it.  I might have another play, but I think the problem is that the edge of the docking ring ends up looking too discontinuous.  The layer of macaroni tiles also gives the whole structure some height; the docking ring wall tends to look a bit shallow without them.

Your second suggestion - do I have this right (building from bottom to top) - is to keep the 4x4 round corner plates as the base, then a single layer of 1x1 round plates around the circumference, then the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles?  I haven't tried it, but I think the problem with that is that you will lose the nice slope in the docking ring wall, since the diameter of the circle created by the macaroni tiles will be the same as the diameter of the circle created by the 4x4 round corner plates.  This will produce uniform tension along the length of each link tread and the chain of link treads will sit completely perpendicular to the base.  The genius of the original MB design is that there is a variation of tension along the length of the link tread elements - greatest where they contact the 4x4 round corner plates and less where they contact the 1x1 round plates, and that induces the ring of link treads to taper from the base of the structure toward the top.  

5 hours ago, Macguy said:

Neophyte Brickie

I also second that - it looks great.

Any chance you are going to produce a parts list of the final version?

When I get time I hope to post an update with build instructions and a parts list.

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Posted (edited)

Since you asked, @Vouatch:

50803134681_a97c5f49a5_c.jpgIMG_0316 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50803248602_891ec7d764_c.jpgIMG_0688 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50803251307_cb4126fa97_c.jpgIMG_0694 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

I'm undecided.  If possible I'd like to somehow hide the 1x1 round plates on the left and right edges.  It does look very similar to the model, but without the macaroni tiles there is something unfinished about the overall appearance.  Unfortunately it seems none of the 1x1 modified plates or tiles with clips are available in dark tan, so I would probably go with light bluish grey for those.  Also, bucket handles in light bluish grey seem to be a rarity, and very expensive, so I'll probably have to leave those as dark tan.

Edited by Neophyte_brickie

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Posted (edited)

I love the new inner part of the ring @Neophyte_brickie, but I’m still not convinced by the external part, it doesn’t remind me the real thing at all.

I still think something like this would be more appropriate, even if I’ve no idea if they can match somehow:

Flutdisque type 4

 

Edited by Lock

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On 1/1/2021 at 12:38 PM, Neophyte_brickie said:

UPDATE - Marshal Banana Docking Ring improvement

I feel rather stupid, but pleased to report that I've cracked it! I was so close before, but that unorthodox technique I came up with in my earlier post is entirely unnecessary - the MB Docking Ring can be achieved perfectly without the hose nozzles.

The solution is to shift the chain of link treads down so that the upper 'rail' of the link treads sits adjacent to the middle layer (rather than the upper layer) of 1x1 round plates; in that way the lower rail of the link treads is level with the 4x4 round corner plates. This forces the chain of link treads into a perfect circle of exactly the right diameter. It's a tight fit, but the links hold - and by happy coincidence, the tension in the ring introduces a natural slope to the link treads  - and this allows the 3x1 tiles to attach around the outside of the ring at pretty much the perfect angle. Despite the tension, the ring of link treads is in no danger of slipping - the ridges formed by stacking the 1x1 round plates hold it firmly in place. Furthermore, the gap that was there previously between the base of the link tread ring and the 10x10 inverted dish is eliminated. The photos below demonstrate the improved version. I'm finally completely happy with the overall construction, but may still further tweak the design of the docking ring internals.

50785523118_eec6aaa383_z.jpgIMG_0632 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50786282026_82d9f991ff_z.jpgIMG_0630 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50785523078_2a7dd77eb5_z.jpgIMG_0633 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50786384082_c7ccef5c72_z.jpgIMG_0619 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50786382352_c5fc2befdc_z.jpgIMG_0636 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

50785521573_39ddb96fb8_z.jpgIMG_0637 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

Excellent work on sussing that out! 

I was wondering... I'm not well versed in technic parts... Are the black non-wide links the same size connection as those grey tread links? I ask because, I wonder if it's a possibility to alternate a grey and black one, to then use the 2x3 lbg tile to create a more solid ring piece? 

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11 minutes ago, Fuppylodders said:

Excellent work on sussing that out! 

I was wondering... I'm not well versed in technic parts... Are the black non-wide links the same size connection as those grey tread links? I ask because, I wonder if it's a possibility to alternate a grey and black one, to then use the 2x3 lbg tile to create a more solid ring piece? 

I honestly don’t know, I don’t have access to the the other black technic links, but it’s a good thought and it should be possible to use Studio to answer that question.

10 hours ago, Lock said:

I love the new inner part of the ring @Neophyte_brickie, but I’m still not convinced by the external part, it doesn’t remind me the real thing at all.

I agree with you, to an extent - the outer wall of the MB docking ring doesn’t look very true-to-life.  If you could somehow cover every link tread with tiles rather than every second one it would be better.  BUT there will always be compromises when it comes to creating something in Lego, it comes down to how much compromise you can accept.  I like the MB design because it achieves a docking ring structure that (a) is close to perfectly round (I guess technically a 32 sided polygon, but I’m not going to sweat it); (b) has a continuous slope to the docking ring wall (ie is wider at the base than at the top, without needing to use a stepped construction); and (c) is structurally very stable.  I’ve not seen any other solution presented that achieves all 3 of those aims.  In doing so, it compromises heavily on accuracy of appearance, but then there’s something about the MB design that just looks very nice anyway (admittedly a subjective value judgement).  Having said that, I think it just doesn’t look as good without the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles, even though the inclusion of these is even more of a departure from the real thing and provides less flexibility in getting the internals to look accurate.  So I think at the moment my preference is a sort of hybrid solution that uses the MB design with the macaroni tiles, and my modified design for the internals using the 3L bars, as appears in an earlier post of mine on this page.

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