75192 - UCS Millennium Falcon 2017 MOD/MOC

[epkiernan]

I'm new here. My kids were playing with my Millennium Falcon and the piece in the pic (along with a lot of other pieces) fell off. I got it back together but can't figure out where this piece goes. There is a chance it is from another set they were busy destroying but I'm pretty sure its from the Falcon. Any advice on where it belongs or what # in the instructions it goes with?

[Jez_AU]

18 hours ago, Vouatch said:

@Jez_AU hello, hard to say if your version is better like this or not, your color changement is very low, I have some difficulties to find it. so it would certainly said that this is a good work, with little touches and keeping the original design !

Did you use an original picture, can you share it to look what was wrong?

Hi @Vouatch 

 

Sure here is the set built completely stock

Untitled by LEGO-Dad, on Flickr

and how it looks at the moment

Untitled by LEGO-Dad, on Flickr
 

It’s only subtle changes but it was really the dark grey on on the left mandible that annoyed me as it definitely does not appear in any of the movies except for one frame in TFA, but as I’ve built mine as the ESB version it definitely had to go :) 

Hope this helps with the differences

Cheers

Jez

[Vouatch]

3 hours ago, epkiernan said:

I'm new here. My kids were playing with my Millennium Falcon and the piece in the pic (along with a lot of other pieces) fell off. I got it back together but can't figure out where this piece goes. There is a chance it is from another set they were busy destroying but I'm pretty sure its from the Falcon. Any advice on where it belongs or what # in the instructions it goes with?

I tink I found something, look at 1329 point of instruction, I think this part could feet under the upper globe /turret

[Vouatch]

@Jez_AU I was thinking about a movie picture on which you want to go but thanks to share the before / after.

I like subtiles mods, like some tiles above engine, you're great.

I think the actual color of the set is approaching this picture from the Haynes Manual (which I recommend), but I don't know if it is an official color from one of the movies or only a drawaer work:

[Jez_AU]

On 10/10/2017 at 11:15 AM, blbills said:

If you want to learn more about the MF than 99% of even the die hard Star Wars fans take a looks at this thread:

https://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=232123&page=4

Note that the dark stripe came about when they made a digital version of the MF for the Special Editions and was actually only ever used in marketing material (Aka it never appeared in the film).  If you scroll all the way down on page 4 you'll see that image and I'd be willing to bet this is what the designers used as reference material.  Kind of a bummer.

Now to add additional fuel to the fire... In TFA this dark stripe also appears and disappears in the same scene.  Scroll to the bottom of this page:

https://imgur.com/a/pdEcg

I've been told that the dark stripe appeared on the trailer footage but when it all got rolled up for the movie no one went back in and fixed it.  I've spent waaay to much time researching the falcon for my own build...

@Vouatch Yes I’ve seen that image. Have a look at this. I found this post back on page 6 when in first started reading the thread and based my research around some of the  images in these links. This is another link that is also cool as it shows the 5’ model from ANH next to a scale model https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/my-falcon-in-the-current-fsm.334726/
 

As you said the grey stripes appear in the Haynes MF manual but not in the movies except for a single frame in TFA

[Vouatch]

@Neophyte_brickie Woohoo, excelent post !!!

Ok, you push the design in another way and that's great to see other possibilites.

Congratulation to succes to put all the treads and to find a.... very strange solution  When you are talking about a non orthodox way, here you clearly are !!! But why not lol

I'm clearly disappointed not to have the pieces to try on my side because with studio, I can't clearly have a result reproducing reality.

I was'nt thinking that treads will answer like a metal watch strap, falling inexorably since no friction present.

You succes to put a round corner and some round 1x1 plates, very good job, I did'nt know that thoses plates could enter inside the middle of the treads.

I must admit that I can't go further with studio... I'm frustrated because I have more ideas that come but clearly need to test it in real.

Last thing you didn't pushed up, the junction with the ship, why did'nt you try to make the ship and the dish 10x10 in contact directly, without rectangular tiles all around?

if you take a look at @marshal-banana design, there are 2 10x10 dish inverted radar, one in light grey, and another one in dark... but in this color, the piece seems not exist. So something escapes me...

 

@Jez_AU thanks for the link, I knew it since we talked about it one or 2 pages before but I didn't try too compare with your colors.

I take the time to re check your pictures, and, my opinion is divided for your last design:

now your ship feel too symetrical I think in mandibles, but may be you are now more acurate...

difficult way you to choose. Otherwise I think I will do like you, put more dark red tiles above engine

[Fuppylodders]

14 hours ago, Neophyte_brickie said:

Ok, so here goes - this is going to be a long post.  I've further tweaked my Marshal Banana-inspired Docking Ring mod, and I've achieved a solution I'm satisfied with.  I must reiterate though, this may not satisfy the purists, as it relies on a completely unorthodox technique - albeit using genuine Lego pieces.

 

Quite a very decent solution. As long as it holds, I think its a good enough technique.

I was wondering... is it possible to simply use some of this https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=75c29#T=S&O={"iconly":0} on the inside back edge instead of those round studs and those hose nozzles? I can't remember how flexible the plastic hose is. I know its pretty stiff, but is there enough flex to bend into a circle and which would then apply a rounded pressure going outwards as it tries to straighten back out, thus pushing the links outwards also in a circular shape...?

[Neophyte_brickie]

2 hours ago, Fuppylodders said:

Quite a very decent solution. As long as it holds, I think its a good enough technique.

I was wondering... is it possible to simply use some of this https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=75c29#T=S&O={"iconly":0} on the inside back edge instead of those round studs and those hose nozzles? I can't remember how flexible the plastic hose is. I know its pretty stiff, but is there enough flex to bend into a circle and which would then apply a rounded pressure going outwards as it tries to straighten back out, thus pushing the links outwards also in a circular shape...?

I had the same thought as I was writing up my post, but didn’t have access to any rigid hose that I could experiment with. I think it could work. It comes in a number of different lengths too.

[Neophyte_brickie]

7 hours ago, Vouatch said:

I must admit that I can't go further with studio... I'm frustrated because I have more ideas that come but clearly need to test it in real.

Last thing you didn't pushed up, the junction with the ship, why did'nt you try to make the ship and the dish 10x10 in contact directly, without rectangular tiles all around?

if you take a look at @marshal-banana design, there are 2 10x10 dish inverted radar, one in light grey, and another one in dark... but in this color, the piece seems not exist. So something escapes me...

Yep, Studio is an excellent program but it has its limitations - I think this is one instance where you need to experiment with real bricks, as Studio won’t fully simulate the behaviour of the link treads in a realistic way (I like your analogy of a metal watch band - that’s very much what it’s like!)

In regards to your question about the connection to the ship - I considered removing the tiles and having a connection as you describe, but that would lower the profile of the whole docking ring by 1 stud relative to the sides of the ship, which I thought might look a bit strange.  I had noticed that MB’s design seems to have a second 10x10 inverted dish in dark bluish grey.  I like that look, but thought it would be an expensive part (the lbg version certainly was) and I was looking to limit cost, so I didn’t even consider it. I didn’t realize the part doesn’t exist in dbg!

[Mr Ogel]

Yes, the rigid hose 75c29 or any (not too short) length can be pulled to a circle. This was also used for the cockpit of Brickvaults Ghost v2 where clips with slopes were fixed to it. But you have to fix the ends with clips or to connect them using pneumatic hoses. If it is fixed then it will stay.

[Neophyte_brickie]

9 hours ago, Vouatch said:

if you take a look at @marshal-banana design, there are 2 10x10 dish inverted radar, one in light grey, and another one in dark... but in this color, the piece seems not exist. So something escapes me...

It appears we are mistaken, the 10x10 inverted dish does indeed exist in dark bluish grey - note there are two variants of this part, one with hollow studs and the other with solid studs.  According to bricklink the solid stud variant is available in dark bluish grey (not the hollow stud variant though).  Perhaps I will end up going down that path - I will need to do another bricklink order to get parts to modify the other docking ring, so maybe I'll get a couple of dbg 10x10 inverted dishes at that point, if they're not too expensive.

[Vouatch]

Just now, Neophyte_brickie said:

It appears we are mistaken, the 10x10 inverted dish does indeed exist in dark bluish grey - note there are two variants of this part, one with hollow studs and the other with solid studs.  According to bricklink the solid stud variant is available in dark bluish grey (not the hollow stud variant though).  Perhaps I will end up going down that path - I will need to do another bricklink order to get parts to modify the other docking ring, so maybe I'll get a couple of dbg 10x10 inverted dishes at that point, if they're not too expensive.

I think you're right. I didn't try to find it in bricklink, just in Studio. And yes it appears to be possible in dark.

Strange but good news!

[Neophyte_brickie]

58 minutes ago, Mr Ogel said:

Yes, the rigid hose 75c29 or any (not too short) length can be pulled to a circle. This was also used for the cockpit of Brickvaults Ghost v2 where clips with slopes were fixed to it. But you have to fix the ends with clips or to connect them using pneumatic hoses. If it is fixed then it will stay.

The more I think about it, the more I think this is the way.  Using the 2x2 modified plate with octagonal bar frame of @Vouatch's original design, and modified plates clipped to that, attached to more modified plates with clips that hold a length of rigid hose curved into an arc.  That solution might also permit a bit of flexibility with respect to the height of the link tread ring relative to the rest of the structure, which could solve the issue of the gap between the base of the link treads and the inverted dish.

[Neophyte_brickie]

22 hours ago, anothergol said:

A part to consider for the side rings:

while this old wheel sucks as a support because it's too thin & offers no friction for clips

..the new (larger) one from the Ecto 1 really does and is an amazing base for cylindrical stuff, with more room around.

Another potential idea as an alternative to the 2x2 modified plate with octagonal bar frame

[Neophyte_brickie]

Here's another take on the docking ring I came across on Flickr:

Millennium Falcon (MKII) Reverse Engineered by Flutdisque, on Flickr

I think it looks pretty amazing, although it seems to lack the sloping edge.  The user who built it, Flutdisque, based the design on Marshal Banana's MF Mk II.  In the comments under one of the photos they say they've used 'classic technic threadlinks' (?tread links), and in the photo description they refer to using 'classic technic linkchains to connect the 2x4 tiles'.  Anyone have any thoughts about what part they are referring to and how this would work?

Check out Flutdisque's Flickr for more photos:

 

[Vouatch]

@Neophyte_brickie hi, new design challenge lol !! it's another way of design but more plate since the tiles can't be inclined.

After a look on all pictures, it seems for me that there is a 2x3 plate under each tiles, this plate must then be connected to the tread links.

But you know what? I just discovered this kind of link... may be a way to follow:

And I did this :

 

 

but the circle seems too big...

Edited December 10, 2020 by Vouatch

[Neophyte_brickie]

57 minutes ago, Vouatch said:

@Neophyte_brickie hi, new design challenge lol !! it's another way of design but more plate since the tiles can't be inclined.

After a look on all pictures, it seems for me that there is a 2x3 plate under each tiles, this plate must then be connected to the tread links.

But you know what? I just discovered this kind of link... may be a way to follow:

And I did this :

 

 

but the circle seems too big...

Yes, that looks very close! It seems the outer ring should be 13 rather than 14 tiles around

[Vouatch]

@Neophyte_brickie oups... I calculated the good number but I put 14! you'r right, let's go !!!

 

 

Quick job, need to invent how to maintain the technic links to the bricks, but many possibilities I think since there is a lot of space!

 

[Vouatch]

top design finished:

 

[Vouatch]

On 12/6/2020 at 1:28 AM, anothergol said:

A part to consider for the side rings:

while this old wheel sucks as a support because it's too thin & offers no friction for clips

..the new (larger) one from the Ecto 1 really does and is an amazing base for cylindrical stuff, with more room around.

Hello Anothergol, impossible to find your new wheel on studio... even on bricklink, do you have the part number? I would try to use it on the last docking bay work... thanks!

[tismabrick]

STEERING WHEEL NO. 1

Element: 6299938

Designnummer: 67811

[Neophyte_brickie]

4 hours ago, Vouatch said:

top design finished:

 

That is very quick work! I posted a query to Flickr user Flutdisq on their design, and they confirmed that they used BrickLink part no. bb0076 as the link, so you are spot on. I think you are right, there must be a layer of 2x3 plates under the tiles.  I notice you reduced your design from 14 tiles around to 12; Flutdisq’s model has 13, but 12 already seems to have a lot of spare room around the internals - it seems like 13 would be too many but it looks right in Flutdisq’s photos?

[Vouatch]

@Neophyte_brickie wow, I must certainly be very tired since I did it first time with 14 then with 12... but my goal was 13... strange to see that this morning, I need vacation !!!!

You're right, with 13, now, it will certainly be too much... it 's strange as the time we did it with Marsahll banana design and some tried with a link less.

[anothergol]

14 hours ago, Vouatch said:

Hello Anothergol, impossible to find your new wheel on studio... even on bricklink, do you have the part number? I would try to use it on the last docking bay work... thanks!

Yeah it (67811) is not in Studio yet I'm afraid. But can already be found on Bricks&Pieces.

[ClassicLook]

Hi,

Here's my docking ring. It's not my own idea, there were some post about the structure at the beginning of this thread.

I'm very satisfied with it. There is little tension at the main connection and it's quite fragile, but it does its job. 

I've made it about a year ago, and since then there was no problem with it, even in this tilted position.

IMG_20201210_202127 by Gyula Herr, on Flickr

IMG_20201210_202401 by Gyula Herr, on Flickr

Edited December 11, 2020 by ClassicLook