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75192 - UCS Millennium Falcon 2017 MOD/MOC

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10 hours ago, ScottishDave said:

Sharp eyes, @TravisH44! I  forgot that I wanted to demonstrate that here. It's a genuine mod, and quite simple.

Great MOC/MOD, the love you put in the project is evident. :)

It looks different from the usual Falcons you see around, and this makes it unique. I like it a lot.

The levers/grid solution is pure genius. :)

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9 hours ago, Lock said:

Great MOC/MOD, the love you put in the project is evident. :)

It looks different from the usual Falcons you see around, and this makes it unique. I like it a lot.

The levers/grid solution is pure genius. :)

Have to second that, especially the levers. The colours on the outside make it look pretty rocked down, just like we know and love the original. Some of the parts look like they sat on a smokers shelf for 10 years.

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On 6/13/2019 at 1:04 PM, ToHate59 said:

Hi guys, this is my firsty post to the forum, having been inspired by the great work done. hope some of you dont mind me converting some of your ideas into my project. Anyway I was really impressed with exterior of the USC Falcon, but hated the interior. so this is my take on doing right(ish). closer to the actual plans

I started off just wantiong to put four seats in the cockpit and two in the quad laser turret, but got carried away.  I've completly redone the interior and the floor structure top make it strong enough. Its on a stand but very stable. 

I've now managed to have full corridors throughout the ship with access to all areas. the main area has been enlarged and moved acordingly. there is a ramp to teh cockpit, which now has four seats. 

I've redesigned the engineering section and the sleeping quarters, which now includes three beds. not as angualr as needed but aceptable. the kiss room is in the right place.

I've also altered most of the exterior panels to make them removeable as is the top of the beds.

I know the corridors should be rounder, but lacked skills and peices to fully replicate this, but still think i did a better job than the stickers provided with the original model.

I might alter the actual engines, as many of you have, but not sure on  the best approach and lack parts to experiment.

Would appreciate feedback, advice and constructive crisism

IMG_4098.jpg.4a4abe0e7f1aca17901d96d9ec3c1b72.jpgIMG_4099.jpg.195c7468c4d98f414a16dd13ee17ea52.jpgIMG_4100.jpg.cf3419c57ab8cbac58bdabdc172e385b.jpgIMG_4101.jpg.b0c5348715bdad42008c43b39cab82a0.jpgIMG_4102.jpg.7f504e40440f1e1301dc5440e7b7acb2.jpgIMG_4104.jpg.29ba27428c7cd05c691a49acd70176fe.jpgIMG_4105.jpg.0775df46782fa41f1ae6054ceedefe7b.jpgIMG_4106.jpg.9be224656a65c60536d988e365208373.jpgIMG_4107.jpg.e7a85d4c865c880198f0a7a24aa079b7.jpgIMG_4108.jpg.cd63f4bbe58ba5b016b0538e36035874.jpgIMG_4093.jpg.2424c499f733434afe3b327ba99fabb3.jpgIMG_4094.jpg.23fdb1c94e742ea037537fb1a1898443.jpgIMG_4096.jpg.5671c00f10e70b9072eecb685703ace8.jpg

Hey could you give me your plans for the hallway to the cockpit? and also the top roof and all that?

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1 hour ago, caperica said:

Do you guys think it would be possible to apply the method from the new MF set that has no hull gaps?

Well I think it is possible, but there aren't many gaps in the UCS falcon anyway. Plus, the surface would have more studs and more difficult to attach stuff onto.

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5 hours ago, caperica said:

This is almost exactly what I want mine to look like! Does he have any pictures on how he made it?

 

Hi! I'm the author if this model. I do indeed have pictures on how I made it.

If you look in the rest of my flickr photostream you will find plenty of progress pictures in older albums, especially in:

https://www.flickr.com/gp/11988796@N02/e0379Z

Also, here on Eurobricks I do have an older topic (but it still checks out):

This LXF file from that topic is essentially the "Full external upgrade kit" circa 2017, right before the new UCS model came out: _Falcon.LXF

48808892623_a836b47481.jpg

No promises as to when it will get done, but last night I started in on documenting my more recent mods:

48805544031_d678c2df5c.jpg

This is a mod of the UCS 2017 turret, with a properly-sized window (8 studs wide), and an improved quad-laser design.

I'll be posting this mod, including the LXF file, in this topic once it's finished.

Edited by ScottishDave

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Thank you for the kind words @Jerry McGlade.

@Chewbricca That's looking really good. I hope to have an LXF of my latest engine deck mods soon which might help you.

In the meantime: as promised is my mod of the turrets.

Fixes:

  • Improved the position and size of the markings on the upper turret
  • made the window the proper size (8 studs wide) relative to the size of the turret
  • Added more detail to the gun platform
  • made the quad cannons more accurate.

48861922187_aa22137258.jpg

LXF FILE

BRICKLINK XML PARTS LIST

This is a mod of the original lego turret, to keep the number of extra parts down.

To hold the window in place, I used four mining hands and 8 short pieces of cut 3mm tube. This technique cannot be reproduced in Lego Digital Designer, so here are some photos to guide you.

For each arch, you need a minifig hand (preferrably Light bluish gray in colour) and a couple of short lengths of hose. In total you'll need 8 minifig hands and about 16L of tube. I've included these in the parts list attached.

48860516278_38e370b151.jpg

First drop one of the pieces of tube into the underside of the arch to act as a wedge:

48860517408_875e311f21.jpg

Then push the minifig hand firmly into the other piece of tube, and wedge it into the underside of the arch:

48861178222_294885db87.jpg

The 8x8 dish is then placed in the hands during assembly. Once assembled, the dish and the hands are quite solid.

48860517068_c658b13e90.jpg

To make the red markings in front of the window I used stickers, cut from the sticker sheet for the republic cruiser (7964). I’ve included the relevant sheet in the parts list. Here is a template for cutting out the stickers:

48862022762_c98c77302b.jpg

BTW here is a sneak peek at the next mod I’ll be posting, hopefully this coming weekend:

48861921832_01f61684d5.jpg

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Wow @ScottishDave, now that's what I'm talking about! Fantastic! You seem to have made improvements to the docking rings (of which I am, off course very curious). I had started modifications to the top (TESB instead of your Star Wars version), but the project has stranded with the purchase and renovations of a house (which will finally have a Lego room). Your thorough modifications on the exterior (most people are working on the interior or engine) inspire me to continue the work on my Falcon :)

I still have to reinstall LDD (although I preferred STUDIO, because it had a more accurate availability of parts), but a quick look at the photos of your mods have provided some eye openers/must-haves. The vents, and engine bay, wow! The ingots on the nose, off course! The treasure chest covers on the mandibles, why didn't I think of those! The "roundness" of the main hull is something for later I guess; this seems to involve a complete rebuild...

 

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Hi @Frenk512 - thank you very much for your kind words. I'm glad I've provided some inspiration!

I wish I had a Lego room... I keep a lot stashed in my 12 year old son's bedroom (oddly, he doesn't seem to mind). The Falcon occupies the only other uncontested Lego space in the house: the spare desk in my study.

Stud.io version 2 (which I just installed) can import LXF files quite handily. I plan to keep using LXF files for basic compatibility, but you can import the files into Stud.io if you wish!

I did base a lot of my most recent changes on the ESB version, as it happens :laugh:.  The engine deck I'm planning to post next, the docking rings and the mandibles were all modeled closely on the ESB 32" Falcon: so feel free to use as many of the ideas as you like.

 

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2 hours ago, TravisH44 said:

For what it's worth, everyone should use Stud.io, it's so so much better than LDD.

I find LDD is more user friendly, light and useable. I usually do my mods there, then import them in Stud.io and correct pieces colors, change expensive pieces with cheaper ones, etc.

I find both of them really useful, but of course this may be highly subjective. :)

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11 minutes ago, Lock said:

I find LDD is more user friendly, light and useable. I usually do my mods there, then import them in Stud.io and correct pieces colors, change expensive pieces with cheaper ones, etc.

I find both of them really useful, but of course this may be highly subjective. :)

Fair enough! LDD has always been a frustrating mess for me haha. The way pieces are categorized is almost nonsense, Stud.io is super close to how Bricklink categorizes, so it just feels easier. It's great that Stud.io can import LDD, that's been a lifesaver more than once.

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I do like stud.io @TravisH44.  I just had a play with it for the first time in ages.

48867650007_a302c5f23c_o.jpg

I was able to position the engine grilles, including the tires: and it was actually pretty easy. Colour me impressed.

However, I will be sharing the LDD file, as most people can import or open LXF in their tool of choice. There will just have to be a few photos to explain my weird build techniques, 'cos that's how I roll.

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I'm really intrigued by your conversations about Lego software, but... I spend my day sitting at a computer, so my Lego time is a chance for me to get away from all that!
 

@ScottishDave - wow: the top section of that last photo is _very_ similar to what I have planned. Great minds and all that! 

I wish I had more time to spend on this: I've been working on and off on my Falcon for a year and a half, and it's finally getting close to done, but it will honestly probably still take weeks (realistically, probably months) before I'm done.

I did come up with something promising for my engines, which I'm very excited about. Hopefully, I can get it built and get some photos up.

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AMAZING THREAD!  I've read through all the pages and I'm still looking for someone who has modded the blue engine using rectangular/square/slope parts to post their build instructions please.  Matrix One and someone else have done this.

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1 hour ago, Delta Walker said:

AMAZING THREAD!  I've read through all the pages and I'm still looking for someone who has modded the blue engine using rectangular/square/slope parts to post their build instructions please.  Matrix One and someone else have done this.

I'm on holiday now, so I'm going to upload my version to Bricklink Stud.io Galery in a week.

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16 minutes ago, ClassicLook said:

I'm on holiday now, so I'm going to upload my version to Bricklink Stud.io Galery in a week.

Thanks ClassicLook!  I'd really appreciate it if you could upload in any other format as well.  I find that on my Mac Stud.io just beachballs whenever I try to go into build mode or whatever it is they call it so that I can reverse engineer it.  

I've always just been a follow the instruction guide kind of person and have been happy with how Lego kits turn out.  Star Wars is my favorite theme and with the Millennium Falcon at this size I really want to go all out and do something special.  I'm also a big documenter (I come from the tech world), so as I incorporate some of the brilliant ideas I've come across here, they'll make their way into a form others can easily follow.  I just ordered that pre-printed parts kit, and am looking at the Light My Bricks company to really make this ship pop.

Edited by Delta Walker

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Hello everyone;

I just got this set built and on Efferman's stand yesterday, and looking forward to starting the mod process. I'm going to go with a more accurate exterior rather than an interior, so this is a short list of planned changes:

1. The gun turrets are too tall, they need to be 1 stud tall/wide/whatever rather than 2 studs tall to sit flatter on the hull. 

2. The mandibles need to move forward a bit and the central section elongated so that the forward hull can be the same diameter semicircle as the back.

3. I'm going to strengthen the frame so that it can be carried by the docking hatch areas rather than the bottom.

3. Add more detail on the bottom, cover gaps, and make the hull a more uniform color for the ESB look. They have a large mix of colors but the Falcon is actually a much more uniform light gray. 

4. Add more tiled areas to lessen the texture difference between the cockpit and access tunnel and the hull. A lot of people think the Falcon shouldn't be smooth, but open studs are, I think, more accurate because most details on the model are too small for a Lego representation. Especially viewed from further away, the Falcon looks more smooth than stud-y in my opinion.

4. Redo the engine like everyone else

5. Hopefully use some of ScottishDave's hull designs so that the plates are more radially shaped, because a lot of the Falcon's details are radial from the center. 

6. Add landing gear flaps to make them look retractable.

Does anyone know if the new 4x6 wedge plates are better for the mandible angles, or would we need like a 3.5x6 wedge plate? The current method makes the mandible sides look a little curved, because of the way the 3x6 plates have to be moved out of line to cover gaps.

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@caperica I really like that list of "To Dos". You seem to be thinking along the same lines I did. Apart from a small disgreement over the beauty and appropriateness of studs :laugh:.

Feel free to ask me questions about my mods directly, either here in the thread or by PM. I'm in the process of documenting my design prior to taking it apart and I'm more than happy to share info with anyone who wishes to take these ideas forward.

A few thoughts...

I found some pictures and other resources which might be useful you, and to anyone seriously accurising their UCS Falcon, on the site http://falcon.maruskadesign.com. Of particular note is the "2D layout for the 32" ESB Studio model" in the "Files" section. It's a very basic 1:1 schematic for the Falcon studio mdoel, and I used it to get my Falcon's geometry as accurate as possible.

To reply to a few of your specific questions, using these plans as reference:

According to the plans, the gun turrets should be 12mm tall, and on the Lego model they are 16mm tall (2 Lego bricks thick), so you are correct: they are 4mm too tall. Another thing making them look too tall is the fact that the docking arms are too short vertically. I decided to fix that as opposed to wrestling with making the turrets 1.5 bricks thick. By the time I'd added detail to the docking arms, I thought that the turrets looked fine.

The actual model mandibles have an angle on the outer edge of about 60 degrees. There is also a shallow angle on the inside. The old space plates I used match the cumulative angle perfectly: but my mandibles splay out slightly. I haven't yet reworked the frame to match the inward angle. If you decide to copy my design, that's an improvement which could be made.

If you ignore the inner angle, the new 4 * 6 wedge plates  you mentioned are perfect. It's just a pity they don't exisit in Light bluish gray.

Edited by ScottishDave
Clarity

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