LegoMonorailFan

[WIP] Lego monorails. [Custom Rail Systems (CRS)]

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Thank you David for publishing these wonderful instructions. As usual any building instruction is a noncommittal recommendation and not a "must do". :classic:  Indeed you can chose the colors as you want or parts are available at bricklink and other sources. 

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Thank you @FiliusRucilo and @djm!

After I have been to exhibitions with Masao Hidaka's original design in 2014 and 2015 I put away the tracks and trains. I planned to improve the trains since I found the same wobbling and curve-speed issues - but never found the time to do so.

Then this thread started...

Finally I found some time to set up a layout and test the designs of @FiliusRucilo and @LegoMonorailFan. Both designs work perfectly on tight curves and even inclinations are no problem for the trains - with unmodified couplings. I also could remove a complete layer of bricks from the original track design. And everything fits on 4x4 baseplates: https://youtu.be/h9AD006CpFo !

Yesterday I started fiddling around with curved tracks and gear racks to build a working switch. And today I find the instructions!

Thank you all! This is great!

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On 6/20/2018 at 9:26 PM, TJJohn12 said:

OK, so is the smallest motorized chassis width that folks have accomplished 6-wide (riding on the typical 2-wide rails)?

I'm working on a CRS monorail train right now (not ready for prime time until August at Brickfair VA ). The build envelope inside the shell I've designed and built is 3-wide centered over the rails. I know - that's a crazy dream. Right now, it's a push-train I guess. But I'm just probing the waters to see if anyone has successfully miniaturized some running gear for CRS, or if I'm going to be the crazy one to do it...

-John

With some modification I bet this 1971 design could be shrunk to 3 wide given the new parts developed since then

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Posted (edited)

Two Motor Assemblies

In this post I am posting some building instructions for two motor assemblies i.e. the bit that contains the motor which sits between the two carriages. The reason for making this post is to assist others thinking about build their own monorail trains.

Assembly #1

crs_motor_assembly1.png

This assembly is a derivation of @LegoMonorailFan's original design. The primary difference is that the gap between the top and bottom Light Bluish Grey connectors to which the train is coupled is 20 LDUs (i.e. a "round" Technic measurement) rather than 24 LDUs (i.e. a brick height measurement). A PDF file for this assembly is available for download.

I currently use this motor assembly on my monorail train. However, this assembly does rely on the clutch power between bricks being sufficiently strong. I have built two of these and, although they were identical, one of the assemblies holds together significantly better than the other. This manifested itself in a recent display where the first train could run for 30 minutes before requiring a little preventative maintenance, while the second train would manage at most 5 minutes before I would need to squeeze the bricks together. This experience has lead me to ...

Assembly #2

crs_motor_assembly.png

This second assembly is an attempt to eliminate vertical separation of the gears which occurs over time with assembly #1. It should be "plug compatible" with the first assembly style i.e. you should just be able to switch motor assembly #2 for motor assembly #1. I have physically built this design but I have not yet had an opportunity to stress test. The aim is that is should run for a period of time no worse than (and hopefully much better than) motor assembly #1 before requiring preventative maintenance. The PDF file for this design is available to download,

Space is tight around the XL motor but I would welcome any suggestions for improvements to this design if you can think of any. If someone builds this style, I'd appreciate any feedback on whethr or not it is sufficiently reliable.

Regards,

David

Edited by djm
Grammar

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Wow @djm that's a cool design!!! I always wondered if it was possible to make a fully Technic version based off of my motor assembly idea, and you've done it quite nicely! :sweet: :thumbup:

I also really like your derivative of my original design as well. Sorry to hear that it tends to loosen itself apart. Was the intention for raising the connectors done so you could accommodate @FiliusRucilo's bogie wheel design?

 

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Not sure if this is welcome here but GBC build akiyuky posted these two awesome videos using the new roller coaster tracks today. 

 

 

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8 hours ago, LegoMonorailFan said:

Was the intention for raising the connectors done so you could accommodate @FiliusRucilo's bogie wheel design?

No, the lower connector was raised to allow the pin

4274.png

and flick missile

61184.t1.png

to be excluded from the design. The reasons for this were;

1) it allows me to use an axle vertically through the coupling

2) it "felt" cleaner having a standard space between the connectors

3) it makes it easier to consider if alternative Technic parts can be used in the coupling design

4) a gut feel (yet to be explored) which says that if I want to delve into a coupling with some pivoting to make inclines/declines feasible, it will be easier if all the connectors are evenly spaced.

Regards,

David

 

 

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6 hours ago, djm said:

No, the lower connector was raised to allow the pin

4274.png

and flick missile

61184.t1.png

to be excluded from the design. The reasons for this were;

1) it allows me to use an axle vertically through the coupling

2) it "felt" cleaner having a standard space between the connectors

3) it makes it easier to consider if alternative Technic parts can be used in the coupling design

4) a gut feel (yet to be explored) which says that if I want to delve into a coupling with some pivoting to make inclines/declines feasible, it will be easier if all the connectors are evenly spaced.

Regards,

David

 

 

I see, thanks! 

 

10 hours ago, supertruper1988 said:

Not sure if this is welcome here but GBC build akiyuky posted these two awesome videos using the new roller coaster tracks today. 

 

 

Woah! Thanks for sharing those! The second one gave me a laugh. :laugh:

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On 7/2/2018 at 6:00 AM, djm said:

Two Motor Assemblies

In this post I am posting some building instructions for two motor assemblies i.e. the bit that contains the motor which sits between the two carriages. The reason for making this post is to assist others thinking about build their own monorail trains.

Assembly #1

crs_motor_assembly1.png

This assembly is a derivation of @LegoMonorailFan's original design. The primary difference is that the gap between the top and bottom Light Bluish Grey connectors to which the train is coupled is 20 LDUs (i.e. a "round" Technic measurement) rather than 24 LDUs (i.e. a brick height measurement). A PDF file for this assembly is available for download.

I currently use this motor assembly on my monorail train. However, this assembly does rely on the clutch power between bricks being sufficiently strong. I have built two of these and, although they were identical, one of the assemblies holds together significantly better than the other. This manifested itself in a recent display where the first train could run for 30 minutes before requiring a little preventative maintenance, while the second train would manage at most 5 minutes before I would need to squeeze the bricks together. This experience has lead me to ...

Assembly #2

crs_motor_assembly.png

This second assembly is an attempt to eliminate vertical separation of the gears which occurs over time with assembly #1. It should be "plug compatible" with the first assembly style i.e. you should just be able to switch motor assembly #2 for motor assembly #1. I have physically built this design but I have not yet had an opportunity to stress test. The aim is that is should run for a period of time no worse than (and hopefully much better than) motor assembly #1 before requiring preventative maintenance. The PDF file for this design is available to download,

Space is tight around the XL motor but I would welcome any suggestions for improvements to this design if you can think of any. If someone builds this style, I'd appreciate any feedback on whethr or not it is sufficiently reliable.

Regards,

David

Getting in the same trouble during my display last month i've also have redesigned the motor carriage. In a first attempt i have simply build clamps around the old design wich results in a little bit tubby carriage. But this solution is tested an runs more than 4 hrs without any maintanance. Disadvantage is, the the space between the gearwheels don't have the 100% correct distance and this leads to a slightly jamming behavior. I'm convinced that the incorrect distance was the core problem of the older constructions leading to pushing the bricks apart. BUT IT WORKS in long runs and you can also use a M-Motor instead of a XL-Type. Using the M-Motor will multiply the driving speed by two but reduce the power for climbing on solped tracks. ;-) See attached some pictures and a link to a LDD File.  :-)

Powertrain_6_small_tire_render_1.pngPowertrain_6_small_tire_render_2.pngPowertrain_6_small_tire_render_3.png

LDD File

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As promised previously, I'm now making available the NXT program I wrote which controls monorail switches.

00_title_page.png/

The program can be seen in operation in the video contained within this prior post:

I've written a User Guide for the program, which includes details on how to install and use the program on your NXT. There is a zip file available for download, which contains the NXT program, User Guide and the other files used by the program. The user guide contains links to monorail track elements (left and right switches and the trigger track) used in the solution.

While I have successfully tested the program installation process on another PC, if you have any issues when trying to install the program, please contact me.

Regards,

David

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On 6/12/2018 at 8:03 AM, FiliusRucilo said:

I've just finished the little movie showing the track layout in action. 

You can find it on flickr.

Link to my Monorail album (you can find the movie at the very last end)

 42744004271_55fed78209_z.jpg

Wow, just shows what can be done

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Posted (edited)
On 1/22/2018 at 1:38 PM, djm said:

@Mark Bellis has graciously given me permission to post building instructions for his design of monorail track curves and straights. There are building instructions available to download for;

640x415.jpg

640x279.jpg

640x258.jpg

Regards,

David

[Link to the next of my posts containing building instructions]

I'm new to monorails and have a couple of questions. What radius will the 19 tile curves make? Do they bend to the same radius as standard lego track? Does each curve make 1/8 of a circle? I see pics of some nice girders holding up the tracks, any plans available for those? They look brick built but the pics aren't good enough for me to tell. Lastly what's CRS stand for? 

Someone recently suggested I add a second level to my Small layout on a door and I'm thinking a monorail might be just the thing. Thanks all!

Edited by sed6
cnat spele

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5 hours ago, sed6 said:

I'm new to monorails and have a couple of questions. What radius will the 19 tile curves make? Do they bend to the same radius as standard lego track? Does each curve make 1/8 of a circle? I see pics of some nice girders holding up the tracks, any plans available for those? They look brick built but the pics aren't good enough for me to tell. Lastly what's CRS stand for? 

Someone recently suggested I add a second level to my Small layout on a door and I'm thinking a monorail might be just the thing. Thanks all!

Hi @sed6! CRS is an acronym I coined which stands for Custom Rail System(s). CRS designs are usually monorails, but if someone were to make a CRS that has two or more rails, they could still apply the acronym to their model because the acronym is broader unlike if the acronym were something like CMS (Custom Monorail System).

Yes, a 19 link long section makes 1/8 of a curve which means a full circle is 152 links, and a 152 link circle has a radius of 46 studs.

To make curves that correlate with TLG's official train track, you'll need 31 links per 1/4 of a circle.

As for the girders, is there a specific design your referencing?

Cheers! :sweet:

LMF

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Thanks @LegoMonorailFan for the quick reply and good info! I'm going to start experimenting with rail and train construction soon. Closer inspection of the girders I asked about (using my laptop instead of phone) reveal them to be some standard girders I can get thru BL. I'll pop back in later with more questions and perhaps some progress updates!

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8 hours ago, sed6 said:

Thanks @LegoMonorailFan for the quick reply and good info! I'm going to start experimenting with rail and train construction soon. Closer inspection of the girders I asked about (using my laptop instead of phone) reveal them to be some standard girders I can get thru BL. I'll pop back in later with more questions and perhaps some progress updates!

Glad I could help! :classic: Looking forward to seeing your progress. :sweet:

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