Trekkie99

[WIP] Lego monorails. [Custom Rail Systems (CRS)]

Recommended Posts

When i saw @Masao Hidaka's monorails in @hispabrick magazine i was charmed by them. But i thought that haven't got enough parts for them. Trains discussions in our local LEGO group motivated me to try to make simple and small monorail. I grabbed BuWizz and PF motor, that in fact was L one, and tried to built first monorail, using doublebricks as rail. 

I had a lack of technic parts at home, and first versions was jumping and trying to fall

So i started searching and investigating and have come upon this thread, and @Trekkie99's schemes. 

Modified scheme, i added another wheel because of length, run pretty well

3j8knDE.jpg

 

 

I made track using Mark Bellis's curved track instructions, modifying it for 1x3 and 1x4 bricks, because i run out of 2x2 plates pretty quickly. Thanks to @djm for publishing them. 

I went to work for technic parts i store there, and took gears and m motors with me. Firstly i tried to recreate @XGBC's 4 wide monorail

Maybe my realisation is buggy, i had to change the wheels, because i had no wheels he mentioned, so my scheme become not so clear.

3I0bQwT.jpg

For me M motors is too slow for my version of his build :( i need to but some gearing up. 

 

I watched @Masao Hidaka's new technic builds and tried to recreate second one, with M motor, and modifications according to parts i have. 

 

 

That was funny. I still have a lot of experiments and things to understand, i haven't got much place, but brick rails need too much because of the non steep curve of rails, also my build are not so good in steep curves, may be i should try to make them shorter, or remake stoppers. 

p.s. rechecked 4 wide setup, it is definitely wheels fault :( 

Edited by tkf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found couple of desired wheels but worm drive making speed slow, so i tried another 4-wide setup

kiwiDcf.jpg

nu82YMU.jpg

The problem is the wheel count, i have only two such wheels, and they should be put on side of gear or the motor will go slow when tilting to other side. But it definitely faster :) But unfortunately a bit too tall :( so it is just a PoC, not something usable. 

 

Edited by tkf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes this is a real problem with my design. Its way to slow. i think we have to combine our designs somehow so you have to add another 90 degree gear to angle the motor the right way. But other than that really good design and good speed!

XG BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 26-28 April was the moment of truth for my custom monorail system. From the total failure in 2016, was this a much better event
First one was a cross bread between Hidaka solution and the Reier Pyttes rail system for his hanging monorail. 
Here is RR 5 (RR = Reier Rail to honor the creator) We also work together to make a standard for both type of trains. Running of the old 12v system
I still got a few bugs to iron out. Need to check the status of my train when i get it home.


https://1drv.ms/v/s!AsnCfgQB7ShSib5i9s74g88Fv91OiQ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, XG BC said:

 i think we have to combine our designs somehow so you have to add another 90 degree gear to angle the motor the right way.

Two gears will be better i think, current gear should be placed similar to @Trekkie99's solution here. And one on the top, and another on motor. But it won't solve issue with tilting, unfortunately i haven't got enough wheels to check out their doubling, but may be that will work. Also i'm thinking about usage of 4 wide motor cars, may be it is possible to make one width rails for it. 

Something like this, of course with longer base. 

Q2b2PWc.jpg?1

Edited by tkf
added image

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, mrfuture said:

 Here is RR 5 (RR = Reier Rail to honor the creator) We also work together to make a standard for both type of trains. Running of the old 12v system

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AsnCfgQB7ShSib5i9s74g88Fv91OiQ

Great monorail, like side covers. But why is it so long? It has decorated interior? Can we see it? Also i seem to miss Reier Pyttes'e rail system, so may be you can also give some closeups of rails, especially corners?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@tkf that was what i was thinking what about adding additional wheels at the back?

XG BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, tkf said:

Great monorail, like side covers. But why is it so long? It has decorated interior? Can we see it? Also i seem to miss Reier Pyttes'e rail system, so may be you can also give some closeups of rails, especially corners?

I was thinking about doing something inside but was afraid it will be to heavy so it will fall off in corners. Maybe the updated one will have it. Just the front has something. It is a leftover from the first train.
The long track on the outside of the one i was running on is Reiers. 
He was there too with 2 trains and a spaceship on rail. Cool idea if it had worked. He had modified a General Mayhem ship to "fly" on track using the same method as for the train.  In the end it did straights but had a few problems in curves.  

Structures of the corners is the same as the straights but connected to a 4 wide track 1/4 curve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@tkf I've now built your design but modified it so it (hopefully works) better. 

have a look:

IMG_20190429_200021

XG BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, XG BC said:

@tkf I've now built your design but modified it so it (hopefully works) better. 

XG BC

Good design, but it seems too short for a motor. But it can make good motor carriage, like some people do for XL motors. My problem is that i haven't got enough wheels, at least in already put to parts sets. There must be a couple of desired wheels in unopened sets, so after making their reviews i will return to 4 wide railroad, but i'm going to try 5 wide as an experiment, to try 1-wide rail. But both 4-5 wides don't give ability to hide battery-block/motor, so it should be somehow fitted in overall design. 

@mrfuture flying over monorail? This should look really good, now i can't stop thinking about motor carriage with x-wing, and battery carriage with tie :D 

so you are using 4 wide track? for me it's too much bricks unfortunately. So will continue experimenting with 2 wide rails. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It was just a piece of concept to test the gearing I of course will make the wheelbase longer in order to put the motor in. Im intrested to see your 1 wide rail design.

Keep Trying!

XG BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
58 minutes ago, tkf said:

Good design, but it seems too short for a motor. But it can make good motor carriage, like some people do for XL motors. My problem is that i haven't got enough wheels, at least in already put to parts sets. There must be a couple of desired wheels in unopened sets, so after making their reviews i will return to 4 wide railroad, but i'm going to try 5 wide as an experiment, to try 1-wide rail. But both 4-5 wides don't give ability to hide battery-block/motor, so it should be somehow fitted in overall design. 

@mrfuture flying over monorail? This should look really good, now i can't stop thinking about motor carriage with x-wing, and battery carriage with tie :D 

so you are using 4 wide track? for me it's too much bricks unfortunately. So will continue experimenting with 2 wide rails. 

The track it self is just 2 stud wide ( the old power rail on the 80`s train.) nothing more. Straights has Technic beams to support the track beside for the support structure that lift it into the air.
Since the curves can not have brick structure under it. It need a support system that keep the curve intact. Here is where the 4 wide track part  comes in. It is just for the supports so it keep the curve without
falling apart.  Not for the actual train track.

Making something flying on the track will be hard. you need to balance it good.  The Mayhem ship had the rail go through it.
But why you need battery when you can have power from the track ?

.  

Edited by mrfuture

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, mrfuture said:

 Since the curves can not have brick structure under it. It need a support system that keep the curve intact. Here is where the 4 wide track part  comes in. It is just for the supports so it keep the curve without

sorry don't understand it, can you please provide picture if it isn't hard for you?

 

2 hours ago, mrfuture said:

you need to balance it good

You need to bring balance to force ! :) 

 

2 hours ago, mrfuture said:

 But why you need battery when you can have power from the track ?

Because my monorail trains are PF ones, so i don't know way how to power them from track :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
58 minutes ago, tkf said:

sorry don't understand it, can you please provide picture if it isn't hard for you?

 

You need to bring balance to force ! :) 

 

Because my monorail trains are PF ones, so i don't know way how to power them from track :) 

you have to glue electrically conductive tape to the rails ;-)

XG BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 minutes ago, XG BC said:

you have to glue electrically conductive tape to the rails ;-)

 XG BC

And add contacts to motor connector and place it underneath so it touches the rails? So there is a reason to make wagons more heavy for better contact. Do we have standard for electrically conductive rail already ? It could be great idea, because if you place train other side, it will still go in right direction :D 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, tkf said:

sorry don't understand it, can you please provide picture if it isn't hard for you?

 

You need to bring balance to force ! :) 

 

Because my monorail trains are PF ones, so i don't know way how to power them from track :) 

Here is a llink to a closeup on the curve  https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsnCfgQB7ShSib5jCAWg_8Qt07Jb0w


:-D yes you must be a trained Jedi master to get it work :-D  May the force be with you!

The connection system is the fun part. You have the old power connector shoe of the 70`s
Works best with the bras one. with straight copplings for cables.
Then it has to som way connect to a 9V type cable. I used a broken 9V with the brick type connector and removed the other end and put on a connector or just put the ends in one of the other ends that connects the two shoes with each other. Then you need a 9v to PF converter cable to connect to the motor to finnish of the 12V to 9V PF motor connection.  
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsnCfgQB7ShSib5kJ1Z77b_eQOa9bg
The picture is from my first prototype. IT will need some boggies at each end to make it stable to run
But at least it shows the shoes and the motor setup. The basic is the motor idea in the beginning of this thread.

No gluing or using of tape in this project. All original Lego parts  Just creative use of parts. 

 

 

2 hours ago, tkf said:

And add contacts to motor connector and place it underneath so it touches the rails? So there is a reason to make wagons more heavy for better contact. Do we have standard for electrically conductive rail already ? It could be great idea, because if you place train other side, it will still go in right direction :D 

With this set you have a start. Then you need the old style connector shoes. The one in this set is not possible to remove. I failed on this. But you have the track mid power rail and a controller for power. 
and you need a PF motor.

https://brickset.com/sets/7740-1/Inter-City-Passenger-Train-Set

 

Edited by mrfuture

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@mrfuture very interesting solution, connector shoe and converters should help with this, also i heard only the best about old rail system, but unfortunately it is not so good for the ones that have no 12v/9v parts at all, yes bricklinking rails and some controllers seem to be not so cost as i thought it would be, but it is pretty hard to get all at once. 

You are talking about bb53 shoe, right, with putting 9v to rails instead of 12v and somehow converting it to PF? maybe vandalizing something like 8886. 

But there is always a question about is it needed or not, for exhibitions, old 12v with power from rails is excellent choice, no need to change batteries, remote controlled switches, everything is awesome. But to use any of modern trains with them, they have to be rebuilded. 

Buwizz and new Powered Up hub take not to much space, their size is not so much bigger than shoe + convertion stuff. So for not too long usage they are pretty good, also PoweredUp Hub with boost's sensor give easy way to program trains. PF's battery box and sensors are too big, that is big minus of course. Powered Up minus is just two connectors in hub, and no ability to use PF motors with some sort of converter for example. 

Of course there are many disadvantage. but i'm not sure if vandalizing wires to make connection is fully original :) 

But if i had 12v parts, your solution would be great, it is really awesome and clever. In fact i didn't know that old rails were just 2 brick width. Thank you very much for showing this. It can't help me, but it was very interesting to know. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
43 minutes ago, tkf said:

@mrfuture very interesting solution, connector shoe and converters should help with this, also i heard only the best about old rail system, but unfortunately it is not so good for the ones that have no 12v/9v parts at all, yes bricklinking rails and some controllers seem to be not so cost as i thought it would be, but it is pretty hard to get all at once. 

You are talking about bb53 shoe, right, with putting 9v to rails instead of 12v and somehow converting it to PF? maybe vandalizing something like 8886. 

But there is always a question about is it needed or not, for exhibitions, old 12v with power from rails is excellent choice, no need to change batteries, remote controlled switches, everything is awesome. But to use any of modern trains with them, they have to be rebuilded. 

Buwizz and new Powered Up hub take not to much space, their size is not so much bigger than shoe + convertion stuff. So for not too long usage they are pretty good, also PoweredUp Hub with boost's sensor give easy way to program trains. PF's battery box and sensors are too big, that is big minus of course. Powered Up minus is just two connectors in hub, and no ability to use PF motors with some sort of converter for example. 

Of course there are many disadvantage. but i'm not sure if vandalizing wires to make connection is fully original :) 

But if i had 12v parts, your solution would be great, it is really awesome and clever. In fact i didn't know that old rails were just 2 brick width. Thank you very much for showing this. It can't help me, but it was very interesting to know. 

You are right about the shoe. but i used the https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bb53b#T=S&C=11&O={"color":11,"ss":"NO","iconly":0}
insted for easy to connect the old power cables. The other one need another creative connection with the Light and sound electric bricks. to make the connection between the systems. 
I did that on my failed monorail in 2016. But found other solutions for the new  train. It could be a weak point. .

What we see in this group is the beauty of Lego. Everyone find their own solutions with the bricks they have and creative solution to make a monorail
I started with just the yellow train to get the tracks  and hopefully  then the shoes . But it was not removable. so i bought some of the bb53 variations.
Everything started with Reier back in 2014, that was my first event and Reier debuted with his hanging monorail, and my idea was born to build a on top moving train on the same track system.
We hit a milestone this year. But we have more plans.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, tkf said:

@mrfuture 

You are talking about bb53 shoe, right, with putting 9v to rails instead of 12v and somehow converting it to PF? maybe vandalizing something like 8886. 

I had taken of one of the plates to change the cable but insted i used it to make a special cable. The old system from the 70`s and 80`s you had screws on the connectors so it was possible to change the cable. 
It is not a 100% Lego part but made out of existing parts real parts. It is possible to remove the 9v connector but not as easy as the old connector. So i seldom take Lego apart. but here i had parts that i could use.  The 9v cable was loosing its isolation on the cable so i see no harm to try to salvage that cable in take it apart. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, XG BC said:

i've now finished the digital model of the second version of my monorail motor car.

https://mecabricks.com/en/models/GVjKJ7Z32nz

credit goes of course to @tkf.

XG BC

I assume that the solid pins for keep the train on track works best with the Hidaka solution. For me it was a source of the problem for mye first try. The curves in Lego tracks is wrong for this solution.
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@mrfuture Yes you assumed correct my monorail was made for hidaka and similar track but on that it works really well.

XG BC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.